Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999

      starting from scratch

      Ok I need some opinions on what would be the best set up for my application of a 68 F-body.

      I plan on using the ATS spindle and the car will be about 80% street driven but I have a dream to do some open road racing with it like the Silver state classic in the beginners class.

      There seems to be no end to the diffrent combinations that can be put together and no end to how high the prices can climb. I was leaning tord the C5 set up since the cost seams very reasonable. Is this more then enough for what I'm going to be doing or would a few more bucks get me a much better set up?

      Also in the intrest of saving weight don't some of you guys run manual breaks with these hi dollar break kits? I kind of like that idea and would like to hear what you think of it.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      I guess I will reply to my own.

      If I follow the rule of thumb that I saw on another post below
      11 inch rotors = 15 inch wheel is a must!
      12 inch rotors = 16 inch wheel is a must!
      13 inch rotors = 17 inch wheel is a must!
      Then I should be in good shape.

      Now I need to answer my own question about the manual breaks.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2003
      Location
      Arvada, Co
      Posts
      2,119
      Country Flag: United States
      It really is not a matter of saving weight with the manual brakes as much as a better "feel" or modulation while braking.
      Brian


      I have an unlimited budget. That bad part is I have already used it up.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      Thanks for replying baz67

      I take it your running manual breaks? Is peddal effort a concern? If you are running manuals your self tell me how you like it.
      I plan to put function before Cool but would like to clean up the firewall as much as possible and have better acsess to engine componests.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Manual for me. But I went that way before Hydroboost was so easily installed in early muscle cars. It becomes a matter of preference for pedal feel. That is all. That and I have this pesky little gremlin in the back of my mind that does not want something extra (read breakable) to help me stop. Yes, I know, it sounds paranoid. Pesky Gremlin!
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2003
      Location
      Arvada, Co
      Posts
      2,119
      Country Flag: United States
      rohrt,

      I am running manual brakes with twin masters on my 67. Sorry to say I cannot let you know how they feel because I have yet to drive the car. Pedal effort will not be a concern if you engineer it properly.
      Brian


      I have an unlimited budget. That bad part is I have already used it up.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      Hey 69 tell me what your break setup is. You sound happy with it? Is there anything you don't like about it? What kind and size MC are you using?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      I have the 12.19" x 0.81" rotors front and back w/ Dynalite calipers. The MC is a Wilwood piece also and if I remember correctly is 15/16". Never had a problem except that I switched from Power (stock) to manual. This means you need to buy new brake lines (designed for Manual brakes)and dist. block (designed for disc/disc). The reason fro the lines is that the booster raises the MC and the stock block is under it. When you take the booster out, the MC sits lower and further back, so the block is directly in front of the MC. Unless you use residual pressure valves, your brakes bleed back over night or sometimes during hard acceleration. Almost learned that one the hard way. You can see how it was in the beginning (attached).
      Sorry for the Pic Quality. You can see where the dist block is in relation to MC and the Res Press Valve in the background. God am I glad I fixed that!
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      1988 MANUAL S10 master cylinder – 15/16” bore, shallow pushrod hole. I DO NOT recommend this booster in a manual application with C4 pbr calipers. You will be pushing on a brick wall. If you want manual brakes and have C4 pbr’s try a 7/8” bore mc

      This was from http://www.geocities.com/torkerscamaro/torker.html

      69 you said you didn't have any complaints with your master cylinder?




    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      Well I have went back through the last 14 pages and this question has been asked several times. The question being what MC to use with C5 breaks. The answers have spanned the board from a 3/4 bore to 1.125 bore. It seems the those who have gone this route have had mixed results but for those who have it set up right its great. The few that I have read about that have use the 88 S10 MC was to hard.

      I still want to find the Perfect MC for the job. The wilwood seems pretty popular but I would like to know how it compares to the twin master setup.




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com