View Full Version : LS powered 67 Mustang re-do
Hey guys, I am re-doing my build thread on my LS powered 67 Mustang Coupe. Photobucket's new image policy ruined my old build plus it was just pages and pages of mistakes and building blunders. I am going to post some of the highlights and the new direction of the build.
The purpose of this build was to stick an LS in a classic mustang and not have to cut out the shock towers or run a steering rack. I was able to make my own motor mounts and hack up some LS3 camaro exhaust manifolds and position everything around a borgeson box.
Specs:
5.3 LM7 engine (canton front sump oil pan, dirty dingo dingo-slider engine mounts)
F-body T56 six speed (Hurst shifter, LS7 clutch, modern drive line hydraulic clutch conversion)
8.8 rear (fox body)
3.73 gear
Borgeson steering box
SN95 GT rear disc brakes
99-04 Cobra front disc brakes
Bendix power booser, 1' bore baer re-master, wilwood combo prop valve
18x9.5/18x8 riddler cast aluminum wheels (275/225) tires
Holley HP EFI
Aeromotive phantom 340 fuel system
Champion 3 row radiator
C6 PWM fan
Stock front suspension
4.5 leaf lowering springs + 1" blocks
Tinman Fab subframe connectors
*** At one point the car had a 76mm single turbo. I still plan on adding the turbo again, I just need to fab up a better passenger exhaust manifold.
Here she is the day I brought her home.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/nKqZCN6-1.jpg
8.8 axle with all the brackets cut off
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/zXe3mbu-1.jpg
Firewall mods and heater delete
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/60LuaTh-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/2xf3Hi6-1.jpg
Engine mounts were made from 3/16 plate and slide over the lower control arm mounts and bolt in. The engine is offset to the passenger side for steering box clearance.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/ZTcfZH2-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/Qqpwcji-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/QWIaNzb-1.jpg
At one time the car had a 4l60e and i had to hack up the trans tunnel. Im glad I did, the T56 needed it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/afzK0Y5-1.jpg
I used a Wheel-fit 45 to mock up my tires before buying rims. I settled on 18" riddler wheels. They were stupid cheap from summit racing. They came in a gunmetal color but I had them powdercoated gloss black to match the theme of the car.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/W1mTvCe-1.jpg
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Here is the final engine position. The 5.3 accessory brackets clear the hood as well. I got frustrated with the turbo setup as I originally had the LS3 manifolds pointing forward and had all the hot side pipes in front of the crank. I now plan to install a loop of exhaust pipe from the driver side manifold to the passenger side and build an outlet from the passenger manifold to a T4 turbo flange. Basically make it look like the hooker style manifold, unless i can make their manifold fit with my engine offset.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/jRjToIO-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/eieWkqL-1.jpg
More to come tomorrow. I am going to do some extensive mock up and take more pictures.
HotRod47
09-17-2017, 02:54 AM
Looking forward to more.
andrewb70
09-17-2017, 05:05 AM
Glad to see you back at it.
Andrew
813Demon340
09-17-2017, 06:58 AM
Glad to see you're still plugging away at it. Photobucket sure screwed a lot of the builds on forums.
I did lots of mock up today trying to get everything in order so I can blow it all apart and paint the engine bay.
Here we go...
Fit my ceramic coated Cobra PRB calipers for the first time today. I am using Mustang Steve brackets.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/0o4Aojb-1.jpg
I had to modify my pedal support bracket in order to fit this booster in the car. The back side of the booster has a lot more metal and larger studs than the original midland style that was in the car. Not pictured but the clutch master cylinder fits with this booster as well.
Pleased to see the Baer re-master slides right on in with lots of room around the shock tower.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/o2DDQeR-1.jpg
I scored a 68 Cougar steering column and brackets off ebay for pretty cheap a while back. Thus the reason for the borgeson box. I collapsed the steering shaft with a BFH and mocked up the 1/2 rag joint they recommended.
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Reinstalled my Pacific Thunder Performance Boss 302 style crossmember. I have Just enough room with the new engine position.
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I put the 5.3 accessory bracket in the bandsaw and cut off the original idler. I used a Dirty Dingo idler relocation kit and test fit the rest of the engine compartment jewelry.
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I spent the rest of the day with a wire wheel knocking off the layers of dirt under the car. I was surprised to see the factory red primer. Plans are to seam seal and hit the bare metal spots with some epoxy and spray a nice layer of u-pol raptor under and inside the car as well as the trunk.
Also I measured for a a new driveshaft. I am going have my old 69 Camaro TH400 driveshaft shortened, I am just waiting for a specific u-joint to arrive I ordered from Denny's so I can install the T56 slip yoke. The driveshaft has some odd ball GM 3R u-joints where my 8.8 companion yoke and trans slip yoke are 1310.
Got some work done yesterday. I have the cooling system knocked out and I picked up my newly shortened driveshaft.
I ordered a 3 row Champion Radiator for a big block mustang and had ls1 sized hose outlets added in the traditional Chevrolet locations. This radiator has caused a lot of frustrations. The reproduction saddle mounts for a big block mustang do not fit at all. I had to order two upper brackets and cut one up and weld in almost an inch of material to make it fit the top tank of the radiator. I also had to order two sets of bushings and cut them in half to make up for the added radiator width. The bottom saddle mounts were too wide and had too much material for the radiator to sit flush. I had to grind away material and cut the bushings down to make the radiator sit flush. I then squeezed them in a bench vice to get them to hug the radiator.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/yPTWLjA-1.jpg
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I also took a hacksaw to my C6 corvette fan and made it fit up to the radiator. I used 1/4-20 U nuts along with stainless cap head screws and steel spacers to mount them. I had to flip the fan upside down to make it sit flush to core. It worked out great and only sticks out 4". The fan Relay looks close to the upper radiator hose in the pictures but actually has lots of clearance.
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I welded in some tabs on my axle to locate the rear brake hoses. I found out the calipers and hoses are from a SN95 mustang, 94/95 to be specific. The brackets on the hoses would normally attach to the lower control arm mount on the 8.8 but I cut it off to add the leaf spring perches.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/vYxIlqx-1.jpg
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I overpaid to have this driveshaft shortened. The guy at the shop cut off the weld yokes at both ends and gave me matching spicer u-joints so I wouldn't have to run conversion joints. $250 later for cut, weld, balance, and 2 yokes, and 2 u-joints I have a complete drive line.
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As you can see my car is a greasy mess. I hit the floor pans with a wire wheel and was pleased to see the factory red oxide primer. I am going to wire wheel and degrease the under side as much as I can in preparation of the raptor liner.
I also ordered a hooker passenger side turbo exhaust manifold. It has been two weeks and summit keeps pushing the ship date forward. This is keeping me from removing the drive train. I really want to add my turbo back and like the idea of the drivers side manifold feeding the passenger manifold and the passenger manifold then feeding the turbo. I purchased some schedule 40 steel pipe and butt weld elbows to modify my existing passenger exhaust manifold to mimic the hooker setup. I will only go that route if the hooker manifold does not fit. I will also buy a second set of LS3 camaro manifolds as a precaution since I designed my engine placement around them.
andrewb70
10-01-2017, 06:48 PM
I'm eager to see if the Holley turbo log fits!!!
Andrew
I'm eager to see if the Holley turbo log fits!!!
Andrew
The suspense is killing me! I have no idea why it is taking so long to ship that manifold!
Back to the grind...
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I dropped the rear end out of the car and went to work on the back end and the trunk area. I removed almost all of the loose dirt and grease from under the car. I burned up a harbor freight grinder and ran the wire wheel until all the bristles fell out. Next plan of attack is to soap the underside and pressure wash the remainder. I have a few surface rust spots that will get rust encapsulator before the raptor liner.
I might as well remove the nasty coating in the wheel wheels and what is left on the inside quarter panels. What is the best way to remove this stuff? Heat and a scraper? What about the tar like coating that is flaking off around the back seat and kick panel areas? it gums up the wire wheel and sticks to everything inside the car. I would hate to have to sandblast it off.
I called summit racing to get an ETA on the holley passenger side turbo manifold. They didn't have a set date but the Ohio warehouse had the complete set of manifolds in stock for an additional cost of $150. I said screw it and told em to send me the set to expedite the project. So we shall see how that pans out. Tuesday is the estimated arrival.
fingers crossed the manifold fits.
langleylad
10-06-2017, 04:06 AM
I called summit racing to get an ETA on the holley passenger side turbo manifold. They didn't have a set date but the Ohio warehouse had the complete set of manifolds in stock for an additional cost of $150. I said screw it and told em to send me the set to expedite the project. So we shall see how that pans out. Tuesday is the estimated arrival.
fingers crossed the manifold fits.
Not to be an a-hole but this is hot rodding , nothing ever fits ! lol
andrewb70
10-06-2017, 07:46 AM
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/09/Qqpwcji-1.jpg
I can tell you right now that, at a minimum, the Holley log will crash into the D slider mount.
This post had pictures, but they aren't loading right now for some reason.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1612030-72-cutlass-ls2-6l80e-swap-2.html#post19732041
From the measurements that I took, my big concern was that the log was going to crash into the passenger shock tower...
The instruction sheet has the critical dimensions shown:
http://documents.holley.com/199r11188.pdf
Andrew
DualQuadDave
10-06-2017, 02:34 PM
I love the build! An LS in a Stang is the right thing to do. Only I would have done different is chop the shock towers out. I admire you wanting to keep them, but after years of fighting them on my 69 Fastback, it would have the first to go. All the mock up and fab is awesome, super great build. FYI, ditch the leafs after you get it running. You'll thank me later.
I found this picture.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/8510HRK4-1.jpg
Real bummer to see the motor mount interference in the post above. I really don't want to hack up those dirty dingo mounts. they were expensive and so nicely designed. I have a plan B that requires cutting of the LS3 manifold and grafting in a section of schedule 40 pipe and making the exit similar to the hooker.
andrewb70
10-07-2017, 04:45 AM
I found this picture.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/8510HRK4-1.jpg
Real bummer to see the motor mount interference in the post above. I really don't want to hack up those dirty dingo mounts. they were expensive and so nicely designed. I have a plan B that requires cutting of the LS3 manifold and grafting in a section of schedule 40 pipe and making the exit similar to the hooker.
It's hard to really reference that picture, but I suspect the problem will be the manifold hitting the shock tower right around the #4 cylinder. That's the widest part according to the dimensions shown in the instruction sheet.
Andrew
Not much to add to the build. I spent the better part of the afternoon stripping the undercoating from the passenger wheel well. I used all sorts of different scrapers, heat from a torch, and finally brake clean and a wire wheel. All that is left over is some of the factory red oxide primer.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/rZQv82F-1.jpg
The hooker manifold was a big flop. I took it out of the box once, held it up to my motor then packed it back up. I wasn't about to ruin my engine mounts and try to make it work.
SO... I decided to make my own header that mimicked the hooker. I had a set of 1/2 thick 1.75" port flanges laying around so i said why the hell not! I made it out of 1.5" and 2.5" schedule 40 butt weld elbows and tees. Its not completed but you get the idea. The back of the engine will get a long radius elbow that points down and the front of the header will get two short radius elbows in a S shape that will exit to a 3" transition next to the crank pulley, similar to the hooker.
This is as far as I got today. I welded everything with the flange fully bolted to the cylinder head. I hope it didn't warp.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/GKSduwb-1.jpg
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I welded the flange pipes in small sections starting with the center and working my way outward.
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as you can tell by looking at the tees I had no system to assure they were all the same length. lol. They butt welded just fine though.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/XhjU188-1.jpg
I test fitted it in the car and it fits awesome.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/10/HJ0iZQt-1.jpg
Here is a shot down the center of the header.I had to cut and grind down two casting standoffs on the block to get the tees to tuck in tight. All I have to weld up now is everything that it facing the block.
andrewb70
10-30-2017, 06:03 AM
I was afraid of that! Glad you are making it work...
Andrew
wfo guy
10-30-2017, 02:50 PM
Big pain, big gain. :)
Had a few helping hands today and a slight change of plans for the turbo log. Managed to finish welding the flange and the tees. What do you think?
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The engine is cocked to the side on the engine stand. The up pipe is actually exactly 90*
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/rtpJNlD-1.jpg
The down pipe will clear the shock tower and should easily transition from 3" to 3.5" straight out of the exhaust housing. I need to determine waste gate placement and order some 1.75" DOM tubing. Not sure if I like the T4 transition i got on ebay. Its slightly magnetic, im sure its stainless. Its a CNC 3" pipe to T4 flange. Since the schedule 40 tubing im using has such a thick wall I can just weld it to the 2.5inlet no problem.
Just chuggin along on the turbo log manifold. I cut a 45* elbow in half and used roughly a 20* angle to mount the T4 flange and exhaust housing. Looks like a 3.5" down pipe is doable. The compressor housing fits nicely under the hood.
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man it's looking great. i love projects like this, stuff thats challenging and really shows how it doesnt matter what you want, it just takes time, patience, endurance and a lot of money and busted knuckels
man it's looking great. i love projects like this, stuff thats challenging and really shows how it doesnt matter what you want, it just takes time, patience, endurance and a lot of money and busted knuckels
You got that right! seems like every time I start something on this car it costs me $250. I am waiting on a power master mini starter at the moment. In order to run a 3.5" down pipe behind the passenger cylinder head and to the ground I needed to cut into my manifold Tee between cylinders 6 and 8 and add a short radius 90* that points straight down. The stock starter solenoid is in the way so I had to quit there. Once I get the starter situation sorted out I need to make pipes that connect the drivers side manifold to the passenger side, then determine a waste gate location.
If I wasn't adding this turbo I might have already finished this car.
Here you go guys, two weeks worth of updates.
First up are the modifications I made to the turbo log. I needed to make a dump that cleared the starter as well and left room for a 3.5" down pipe. Here was my solution.
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I struggled with the driver side manifold, Im missing some pics of it but it was a re-purposed LS3 camaro manifold with a bunch of cut down schedule-40 45* angles and a 2.5" header flange welded to it. I bought a tight radius 2.5" exhaust bend donut and made the connecting pipes from manifold to manifold. It was such a pain in the butt to tighten the bolts I ended up welding them in so they would act as studs. I made the crossover pipe 3 times on an engine stand. I finally bolted the trans to the engine to help determine the angles necessary.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/11/WSaPFcB-1.jpg
I need to dent the pipe slightly for more room around the idler and possibly grind the driver side manifold for additional steering box clearance.
With all that crap in place i moved on to the 3.5" down pipe. I didnt have much room but it turned out great.
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as you can see I have 1/4" space all around the pipe and it dumps right at the frame. I have enough room for a bend and a bullet muffler that will terminate at the trans crossmember if I choose to do so.
Next up is boring a hole in the log manifold for the waste gate. I think Im going to installed it straight out of the manifold just before it turns up to the turbine housing. I may run the wastegate dump to the atmosphere or find a way to add it to the dump pipe some how.
andrewb70
11-26-2017, 12:27 PM
I've seen a lot of people put the wastegate right into the turbine housing. May want to research that option...Looking great!!!
Andrew
JayinMI
11-26-2017, 01:48 PM
Sloppy Mechanics did that on his "Don't BS me low buck build" on Youtube. The big downside I saw in that was that if you want to change turbos, it might be harder to sell.
Jay
Sloppy Mechanics did that on his "Don't BS me low buck build" on Youtube. The big downside I saw in that was that if you want to change turbos, it might be harder to sell.
Jay
Sloppy mechanics has played a major role in this build. I plan on using his jegs "sloppy stage 2" cam as well as the PAC1218 valve spring upgrade. Seems to work just fine for that 600hp mark and sounds pretty awesome too.
Next week I will fabricate the intercooler mounts and hack up a spare stone guard and wide grill trim to make fit. I have a custom made 3.5" vertical flow intercooler from tredstone performance, its kind of small but was rated for 750hp. I made a mock up out of wood and it should fit pretty well. My radiator support isnt in the best shape so I will cut a lot of it if need be. I have a spare I bought just for a tiny patch piece I needed to fix my dads fastback from battery acid damage.
JayinMI
11-28-2017, 04:36 PM
I found Sloppy Mechanics Youtube page a couple weeks ago. I'd been aware of them, but hadn't really watched his videos until recently.
It's what's gotten my motivation back to work on my LS S-10 project.
Jay
Sorry for my delay. It has been one hell of a year! 2018 has not been kind to me.
I seperated from my child's mother, lost my job, sold my 2017 gt, found new work, been in and out of a few relationships, and fell ill in the process.
Between jobs I used a chunk of my severance pay to help scoot the car along. Here is the progress for the the month of November 2018.
I repositioned the turbo back a tiny bit and decided to hack up the core support. I made a tube frame out of 1/8 wall 3/4 DOM tubing and make some intercooler mounts out of scraps i had. Two 2.5 silicone 90s bring the pipes into the car. I had to hack up the stock hood latch support but it all clears the grille and front end parts. As a result I had to relocate the battery to the trunk.
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TurboSmart 50mm RacePort BOV
Engine update:
LS9 head gaskets
ARP head studs
rollmaster timing chain
trickflow dampener kit
"Sloppy Stage 2" jegs camshaft:
Lift: 0.585"/0.585"
Duration @ 0.050": 228°/230°
Advertised Duration: 283°/286°
Lobe Separation: 112°
PAC 1218 springs
Stock heads cut and resurfaced
Summit racing bronze bushing trunion kit
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/11/FysT2li-1.jpg
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As for the body i decided to spray just about everything with Upol raptor. I stripped the rear wheel wells, trunk, interior floor pans, and underside of the car and sprayed it all. I did spray the front frame and lower control arm area too. I used eastwood rust encapsulator, 2k aerospray epoxy, as well as their 2k rat rod black for the dash and firewall.
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slimjim
11-27-2018, 06:06 AM
Great job, I can only imagine how long the engine bay took to prep. I'll be doing the same to my car next week, just curious, did you use the raptor liner on the roof? or just leave it epoxy?
Great job, I can only imagine how long the engine bay took to prep. I'll be doing the same to my car next week, just curious, did you use the raptor liner on the roof? or just leave it epoxy?
The roof of my car was covered in a fine layer of surface rust. When I purchased the car it was disassembled and stored outside without glass in it. I covered the entire roof and structures with aerosol rust encapsulator then sprayed it with some rat rod black. The rust encapsulator makes a great primer! I used it in the trunk, floors, firewall area, and dash. Epoxy goes right over the top of it like nothin.
andrewb70
11-27-2018, 02:57 PM
Nice to see you back at it. Just remember, women come and go, but car projects accumulate.
Andrew
JayinMI
11-27-2018, 05:22 PM
Lol. It seems like new children are what causes the biggest slowdowns to car projects, tho.
My GF actually told me I should buy another project. She's very supportive. lol
Jay
rustomatic
11-28-2018, 02:58 PM
Good to see you back at it! You may have found the most slack-free LS timing chain in history. Onward to the joy of finding ways to route things like radiator hoses and spark plug wires and a fan. Here's a pic of the once non-crowded engine bay in my Falcon, post-turbo addition:
158703
The lack of shock towers makes things a lot easier, as does the engine being under the windshield, but the biggest help was just using the truck manifolds in reverse fashion (cut and welded into different things, of course). Best of luck maintaining momentum. 2018 has not been my favorite year, either.
andrewb70
11-28-2018, 04:09 PM
The biggest thing that I regret about my Cougar is not ditching the shock towers....:hammer:
I would have added a turbonator by now.
Andrew
Things got interesting in the garage today. I mounted my booster and master cylinder as well as my willwood proportioning valve so I could make the new front brake hardlines before the motor goes in. I unboxed my PBR cobra calipers and tossed them onto my mustang steve brackets. My dad dug out my C5 Z06 calipers and attempted to install them on the passenger side of the car. I bought them thinking i would modify the mustang steve brackets to accommodate the C5 bracket. Well my dad put me up to it and after a trip to the vice with the carbide bit i ovaled the holes and this was the result.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/VLjpjD7-1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KLTbqP5.mp4
Click the link above for a boomerang of the wheel spinning.
The wheel spins freely but i did have to make the caliper bolt holes egg shaped to move the bolts upwards to clear the rotor. I also had to modify the tin tabs that support the brake pads. i just ground down the center tab as it contacted the rotor all in all it wasnt too bad. I bolted both brackets together and use the original as a template for the drivers side.
anyone need brand new silver ceramic coated 03/04 Cobra PBR Calipers LOL
Not a huge update but I made left and right front brake lines out of some nickel/copper tubing. Stuff bends like a dream. I made all this by hand with no template. I need to order more so i can make the rear line. After that the engine and all systems will be installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/UhsdhfC-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/fcG6l8D-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/KPzchfZ-1.jpg
andrewb70
12-05-2018, 04:14 PM
Nice. I'm a big fan of the NiCopp lines and also the Baer Remaster! I have a15/16" bore on my Cougar as a manual system. Works great.
Andrew
digitalsolo
12-06-2018, 06:33 AM
Looks great! I'm jealous of all the room that LS allows vs. my stupid-big Coyote motor. Nice job.
I got all of the brake lines plumbed and all of the C5 brakes bolted in. I also dropped in the motor today. I added new GM exhaust manifold gaskets and new NGK colder plugs for the turbo. I would have installed the transmission but i goofed on the clutch and ordered a LS7 clutch and pressure plate and failed to get the proper flywheel. I have an aluminum fidonza LS1 flywheel and a stock LS1 flywheel kicking around. I can either buy the correct LS7 flywheel or buy the correct LS1 clutch and pressure plate. The cheaper option is to get an LS7 flywheel.
Enjoy the pics. More to come.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/JTGQYX9-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/ABZP8bA-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/yJ9B3rv-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/7LeOoTG-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2018/12/VbTB9KQ-1.jpg
How do you all think my waste gate dump will work?
digitalsolo
12-27-2018, 07:59 AM
The wastegate priority is very good, should work excellent.
Well guys, its been a year... had lots of ups and downs, switched jobs twice, but i never stopped tinkering on the car. Its actually up and running. The holley efi was super simple to slap on the car. I am using the base turbo LS tune. About the hardest thing i had to do was adjust the throttle body blade to achieve a better hot IAC position. As it sat it would idle but die when you revved it. I had to remove the throttle body 5-6 times to get it just right, now I can rev the engine til the blow off valve opens and it will just idle down as normal.
After I got it running, about March of this year I walked away from it while i adjusted to new jobs and income. I have since started to strip the entire car and piece by piece put it all in SPI black epoxy. Man the car is pretty dented under all that nasty ass buff primer and old body work. who ever did the body work did a great job but the car sat outside for so long i had no choice but to take it down to bare metal.
Here comes the pictures. Feel free to ask questions.
Ls1 v Ls7 flywheel
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/5jv3CaU-1.jpg
Look at this rats nest, holley wiring is good but i have no idea who designed the harness layout. lots of ends are too short or too long.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/Lp45wwc-1.jpg
got the dash installed to monitor the engine
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/Zjj3447-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/kQoHzmt-1.jpg
look at this thick ass primer! and for all you wondering, I bought an eastwood contour sct and it kicks ass on FLAT surfaces only! the rest was wire wheel and a rust stripping disk.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/6NAAtcn-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/6jdp9zA-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/krb3jAv-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/E3tPrKh-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/cnCKBmc-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/uLsHCGy-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/7LcNEFu-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/YnDbrNB-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/czyEQyN-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/JWicDci-1.jpg
Repo rear valance fit OK
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/5nHd3hs-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/HpPde7B-1.jpg
andrewb70
10-13-2019, 09:09 AM
Glad to see you making progress!
Chad-1stGen
10-14-2019, 10:46 AM
Man, I remember your first build thread. Glad to hear you finally got this thing drivable (before tearing it down again). Did you get any video of it running?
qnitro
10-14-2019, 10:51 AM
great update
Man, I remember your first build thread. Glad to hear you finally got this thing drivable (before tearing it down again). Did you get any video of it running?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7tpK50X1LMo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
why isnt the youtube video not working?
https://youtu.be/7tpK50X1LMo
Chad-1stGen
10-17-2019, 10:21 AM
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7tpK50X1LMo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
why isnt the youtube video not working?
https://youtu.be/7tpK50X1LMo
Don't use the embed code. Use either the share URL or default URL with the [ video ] tags.
https://youtu.be/7tpK50X1LMo
Not much else to add. Still putting the car in epoxy one panel at a time. I did the door shells and cowl this last weekend.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/PwOXAwu-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/ogmpVIe-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/10/fHsCfPk-1.jpg
digitalsolo
11-04-2019, 08:01 AM
Progress is looking good. Those are some real PITA steps, haha. Good work keeping on it!
Not much to update, Still putting the car in epoxy. I stripped the last fender and hung one of the doors on the body. I also mocked up the trunk lid and tail extensions.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/5NQazrQ-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/PpYCBMg-1.jpg
I also found some odd damage on my driver side fender. I stripped off all the paint and and found a bunch of flux weld boogers all over the wheel lip and some heavy bondo. I sand blasted just the wheel arch/lip and discovered all this mess.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/q2rS1WO-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/eE2fzHe-1.jpg
looks like someone did a horrible job on that wheel lip. I welded it back up and grinded all the welds down. there were so many little pits and holes i had to fill will small tacks.
I had a ton of sway bar issues with the car. I bought a 1" big block sway bar years ago and attempted to install it on my car. To no avail the bar fit horrible and seemed to not line up with the control arm at all. It also hit the frame. I got frustrated and ripped the big block bar off my dads 67 fastback and it too fit horrible on my car. I lined them up next to each other and noticed my bars end link brackets were bent at a weird angle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/jTJGWGQ-1.jpg
I got super frustrated and grabbed a brand new 1'' sway bar from Global West. My folks only live a few miles from their headquarters. While I was there I picked up some 1/2" poly coil spring spacers. I think I cut my springs too low. Any way, the Global West bar fell right into my car! its dimensions were different (assuming its a small block style bar?) and the end link sides looked longer too. I also added some energy suspension frame bushings, they offer the best bolt spacing and adjustability over the other 3 pair of bushings and brackets I have laying around. Here is the end result of the new bar!
suspension while on the lift, Nothing is tight yet
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/PBagujW-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/sHDMG6N-1.jpg
Suspension while on the ground, Nothingtight yet
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/uBN1nQo-1.jpg
And lastly I tossed a fender onto my car to see the right height. I think i need to bring it up a tiny bit. I can barely fit my finger between the tire and fender. 225/45/18 on an 18x8 wheel 4.5 back space.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/vBuzqOM-1.jpg
Happy Thanksgiving!
I got a little work done before dinner today. I finally received my Opentracker roller spring perches so I tossed those into the car as well as my 1/2 poly Global West spring isolators. I think I have the perfect ride height now. I can fit 2 fingers between the front tire and fender. I have the same gap in the rear as well. I also messed around with the alignment and tie rods.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/nP4vphZ-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/rnhn8tu-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/rET8KhD-1.jpg
Here is the side by side comparison
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/11/Cl24fAh-1.jpg
andrewb70
11-28-2019, 07:08 PM
The ride height looks great!
jaybee
12-01-2019, 08:24 AM
I haven't driven a car with roller spring perches but all over the web people who've put them in rave about them.
Not much to update on the car... I have been dealing with some drama with another car I bought this summer. Details are in this thread.
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/135660-Dealer-failed-to-title-my-car-now-they-are-forced-to-buy-it-back
I finally wired in my C6 pwm fan per andrews instructions, Thank you! works great. Aside from that I ran the wiring to the tail lights, wired the electric speedo, and ran power to my reverse lights. its all loomed and clean. Next up is to clean up some wiring inside the car and wire in the headlights.
I added a 10mm speedbleeder to the clutch line and got that all ready to go. I have rowed through all the gears while the car was on the lift. No grinding in any gear. next up is to program the auto meter speedo. I used this same process on my 69 camaro and it is now very accurate! Only problem was, it took quite a while with the car in jack stands to achieve the proper number on the speedo.
tire revolutions per mile x gear ratio x 17 (pulses for t56) x 2 (autometer uses a 2 mile estimate) =
789 x 3.73 x 17 x2 = 100,060 on the autometer speedo program.
I will be working on the car sometime this week.
jaybee
12-10-2020, 05:47 PM
Oof, what a mess with the other Mustang! That'll take up your time for sure.
Did some work on the car today. I managed to tidy up all the turn signal wiring, brake lights, reverse lights, fuel sender, cigarette lighter and the fan. Not much to show but here is a current picture of the engine, trunk and the dash area.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/VHI1vcm-1.jpg
I still need to wire the headlight and loom the rest of the wires coming out of the firewall to the starter. Other than that she is turn key! I also added a global west monte carlo bar. It fits under the turn signal hood. I also have a global west shock tower brace to add as well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/7gHpuyi-1.jpg
The cord hanging down is the USB link for the Holley HP EFI. I misplaced my glove box latch. I may need to order another.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/46gkDug-1.jpg
Found this plastic radio delete on the internet last year. It fits okay. it needs to be painted to match the shade of the dash. My car is super loud, I doubt it will ever have a radio.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/MQGfzw5-1.jpg
This is the first gen aeromotive stealth 340 tank.. The fuel lines exit the trunk through bulkheads. It's all PTFE line.
The exposed wiring is an aeromotive fuel pump relay harness and fan wiring. Everything terminates into the Taylor aluminum battery box, housing an Optima redtop.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/12/GcetJl9-1.jpg
I might change the fuel fittings to the bulkheads. At the time i plumbed the lines 45* fittings were on backorder so I used the straights I had laying around. Angling the fuel lines down will prevent the arch. So far it runs and idles great.
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