1970 Mustang Mach 1 Restomod/Pro-Touring Build [Archive]

builttodrive

08-06-2017, 05:07 PM

Hello everyone.
I am in the middle of a re-build on my 1970 Mustang Mach 1. I purchased the car as a junior in high school in 2002 and the car was pretty rough as you can see in the photo. I took the car with me to my collision repair program after high school and did a complete restoration on it starting in the fall of 2003 and finishing the project in the summer of 2005. I have enjoyed the car through the years until I got rear ended in the spring of 2015. I decided after the collision and the insurance work was all worked out to not only repair the car but to completely re do it with some changes and take care of things that weren't up to my standards from the original restoration.

Purchased as a parts car from a friend in 2002. My friend Doug inside the car demonstrating the flinstone brakes. He has a sweet 69 Camaro!
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A photo of my Mach 1 next to a 69 GT pro-touring car I built back in 2010-2011 and has been featured in a few different mustang magazines.
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My car was lucky enough to be shown in Mustang magazine a while back and grace it with the Ring Brothers Reactor 67 Mustang.
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Spring 2015 My first outing of the season with the car and a guy in a GMC Jimmy bumped into the back of me at a red light. Didn't look too bad but looks can be deceiving. The insurance estimate at $8,500 may have been a bit light but even being in the business it's tough to estimate vintage cars.
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builttodrive

08-06-2017, 05:30 PM

Initially I was going to repair the car and go just a few steps further but that snowballed quickly! When I originally restored the car some parts weren't available like full quarters and I was never happy with my panel fit and gaps. Now that full quarters have been made available I decided this was a good opportunity to replace the partial skins with new full quarters and things kept going from there. I also never liked The way my long tube Hooker headers came down so low and you could see so much of the exhaust from the side. That and some oil leaks equaled the engine coming out and going in for a "freshen up".

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builttodrive

08-06-2017, 06:02 PM

After removing the the 408 Cleveland 4V from the car and going down memory lane I decided that getting to plug wires and header bolts is a bit tight and not the most fun. With that in mind I decided to do an old school notch on the shock towers to allow for easier access and more engine bay room. I notched the towers as much as I could but wanted to leave enough room to use factory style suspension if I ever wanted to return it that way but I will be installing my Ridetech level II coilovers with strong arms and muscle bar up front. I also shaved up any unwanted/needed holes in the engine bay at this time to give a cleaner appearance.
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builttodrive

08-06-2017, 06:47 PM

In another attempt to hide the 3" exhaust system and also make the car appear lower without hurting actual ground clearance, suspension travel, or drastically altering the appearance of the car I extended the rockers, fenders, and quarters slightly hiding the pinch weld and adding a little cover for the exhaust and frame connectors. I had done this on the red 69 GT pro-touring build and also a few other projects and really liked the result.
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gator68428

08-06-2017, 06:51 PM

Wow, in the magazine, very cool! Lookin' good. Version 2.0, good luck.

builttodrive

08-06-2017, 07:10 PM

On to the quarters. I also shaved the drip rails this time around as this is a common mod performed at my shop and really cleans the cars looks up. I made some patches to bridge the gap of the factory roof to quarter panel seam to add some strength and reduce the body works chances of shrinking in that location over time. I went ahead and welded up the other seams as well.

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builttodrive

08-06-2017, 07:54 PM

I got my rear tail panel on and welded on the lower valance like I had before for a cleaner seamless look. At this point I had decided that because I was in need of a new rear bumper from the accident anyway I may as well use a fiberglass flush mount style. I have done two 69 sportroofs with this style bumper one a Anvil and the other a Mustangs To Fear. They both fit like a typical fiberglass part and needed plenty of work to make fit right. I am glad both companies are offering these parts and I know it is tough to make a part fit every car as there are slight inconsistencies in these cars. With that being said it would appear both of these companies designed them to fit a 69 model and simply assumed they would also work on a 70 like the factory steel bumper does. The factory steel bumper had such a large gap that it was much more forgiving in its fitting both years than these flush mount bumpers are. From personal experience the Mustangs to fear bumper fit a touch better out of the box for a 69 car and needed less work. I chose an Anvil fiberglass one for mine as it lent itself better to a 1970 model. After some surgery I have it fitting pretty good with a little finish work left. I also had to change the bumper mounting studs as they were too low for my 70 but I didn't have this issue with either of the 69's I did.

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builttodrive

08-07-2017, 09:34 AM

Still working in the rear I decided I wanted to come up with a better gas cap solution. I didn't want to use the stock style pop open cap but the billet aftermarket twist off cap with cable wasn't cutting it. I searched the internet for ideas and better alternatives when I came across another members 69 Mustang with a Challenger Cap that I really liked. So I borrowed his idea and needed to figure out how to make it work for my 70. After getting the cap in place I decided the trunk lock needed to go and shaved that for a cleaner look. I will use one of the electric remote latches.

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rickpaw

08-07-2017, 10:01 AM

Nice progress. I really like the subtle mods you've done so far. I've been mulling over extending the rockers on my 67 Firebird, but as bolt on extensions instead of welding them in permanently.

chiva

08-07-2017, 12:31 PM

You are an artist!! Wow, amazing work.

MSTSFabbed

08-07-2017, 12:49 PM

Nice!
What do you think of that cap and Tanks INC set up? I watched the '69 build on here go with that cap and loved it too! I'll be putting one on my '67 here shortly.

Glad to follow along, thanks for posting!

builttodrive

08-07-2017, 08:59 PM

Thanks for all the kind words everyone! I do call this my profession and I have a small restoration shop but I am somewhat young yet and have a lot to learn. With this project being that it is my own I have more time than funds and so if some of these mods take a little more time but save me money and achieve the same end result thats ok.

MSTSFabbed. I liked the way the cap looked on his 69 and really liked not having to worry about where to set a cap when filling up or letting it hang down against my painted bumper from a cable. Tanks sells a nice product and I will be using their 22 gallon EFI tank as well. The Scott Drake Challenger cap looks nice and is a good piece but the base isn't flat. It's concave and its the opposite direction of the 67-69 Mustang tail panel. If you have more room the same version of the cap is offered for a Jeep but it is much larger. I used the challenger cap and machined the mounting base flat to work for my 70.

builttodrive

08-07-2017, 09:22 PM

After pulling the Cleveland out to get a freshen up and re-seal I come to find out it was a good thing I did. It turns out that my first engine guy may have done me more harm than good with the machine work. After further inspection the cylinders had some issues and needed to be bored. My 408 Cleveland turned into a 409 and needed a new set of JE forged pistons. While we were at it we did a port match and clean up on the heads and went with some larger intake valves. I also changed from a Holley 750 Street avenger carb and went with Holley's Terminator Stealth EFI unit. The engine was good for roughly 500HP and 475ftlbs and made peak power just before 6K. Not earth shattering power but good street-able power on pump gas with iron 4v heads naturally aspirated.

I gave the block and heads a coat of base coat and clear in the matching Shadow Grey accent color I'm using on the car and powder coated the intake a silver vein.

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builttodrive

08-07-2017, 09:48 PM

I went back and forth on doing a mini tub on the car and finally decided to pull the trigger. I had been running a 295/30-20 on the rear with decent room after I used a precision tool to make clearance where necessary. (BFH) I was able to get a 305/30-20 under the car as well but thought I may as well make a little extra room for the future because now is the time to do it. The 305 was really about as big as I could go with the perfect back space on the wheels and using leaf springs. At least if you like a low stance with the tires tucked up in the wheel well.

My plan for the mini tub was to be able to use the stock seat and interior panels as normal without having to modify them. The stock rear seat is small as it is but I wanted my son to be able to ride back there when we go out as a family in the car. I used a 1" strip of steel and added it to the inner wheel well to gain an approximate inch at the top. I gained just a little bit more at the bottom and took the tub to the outer seat belt bolt bracket and went to the frame rail on the back side. I then modified the rear seat brackets to work with the wider wheel tub. I have the non fold down back seat but this should also work for the fold down.

I am currently limited to my 20x10 wheels so a 305 is as wide as I can really get away with without the tire looking funny on the wheel. Some day when funds allow I would like to get a nice set of forged wheels in either a 18" or 19" diameter and going a touch wider to get a little more tire under the car. I think with this set up i could easy get a 315 under there and maybe a 325-335 if everything was perfect. The Ridetech four link system will give me a touch more room over the leaf springs as well.

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HotRod47

08-08-2017, 01:13 AM

Nice build so far!!!

builttodrive

08-08-2017, 09:37 AM

I'm fortunate enough to have Dakota Digital just down the road from me and we use a lot of their gauges on our projects in the the shop. Now and then we will have a project car in our shop that is on their list that they do not yet produce a gauge for and we are able to allow their engineers to come out to take measurements and borrow dash or gauge clusters to help them produce a new gauge set for their lineup. That allows us to work out some deals for our personal projects. I was able to negotiate a new custom gauge cluster for my 70 and also do a matching clock for the other side. I think they turned out pretty good. I haven't decided if I want to keep the gauge bezels the pearl orange body color or do something different this time around. The pictures are not the best but they look really good in person!

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1970 TT Rustang

08-08-2017, 11:10 AM

Nice ride

builttodrive

08-08-2017, 06:00 PM

Still on my exhaust preparation kick I decided to make one more modification to make sure I could keep everything tucked up tight. I sold my existing Hooker Competition long tubes. Having done quite a few Mustangs and knowing my goals I picked up a set of FPA headers for the car. They are between a mid length header and a long tube and fit really well and are a quality set of headers. They don't come down near as far as the Hooker's but where there is a little bit of and issue is the floor pan brace where the transmission crossmember bolts to. I decided I could make a little room for some extra clearance here.

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builttodrive

08-08-2017, 06:14 PM

I wanted to do a tittle chassis stiffening up front and picked up a set of Global West outer shock tower braces. I gave them a trial run and had no issues getting the coil springs in and out with them in place so I decided to weld them on rather than bolting so I could keep a cleaner look in the engine bay with a little less hardware showing. I also made a brace to go from the Global West brace down to the torque box to tie the two together for some added strength. I will also be using the Total Control export brace with Monte Carlo bar and trusses.

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builttodrive

08-08-2017, 06:40 PM

Knowing that I wanted a low ride height stance and needing everything to work well with wider tires and no rubbing issues I addressed a few things. Besides the mini tub in the rear I also let the quarts move as far out as possible before plug welding it to the outer wheelhouse lip gaining some extra room there also. I then trimmed back the lip using 3/4" masking tape as my guide for a nice consistent lip with a somewhat factory appearance. It seems like flares are real popular right now but I wanted to gain the clearance and maintain a factory look.

For the front I had just recently did a full concourse restoration on a 70 Boss 302 and got to see how the factory rolled and flared the fenders for these cars. I bought an Eastwood fender roller and rolled the lip of the front fender up making an almost C shape. As I did this the fender also flared out some gaining more clearance but nothing drastic. I then trimmed the top of the lip back like ford had done on the Boss leaving just enough at the top for strength and tapering the edge as I worked my way down the sides to keep the stock appearance.

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MSTSFabbed

08-09-2017, 03:58 AM

Killin it man. Motors looking great!

Thanks for all the kind words everyone! I do call this my profession and I have a small restoration shop but I am somewhat young yet and have a lot to learn. With this project being that it is my own I have more time than funds and so if some of these mods take a little more time but save me money and achieve the same end result thats ok.

MSTSFabbed. I liked the way the cap looked on his 69 and really liked not having to worry about where to set a cap when filling up or letting it hang down against my painted bumper from a cable. Tanks sells a nice product and I will be using their 22 gallon EFI tank as well. The Scott Drake Challenger cap looks nice and is a good piece but the base isn't flat. It's concave and its the opposite direction of the 67-69 Mustang tail panel. If you have more room the same version of the cap is offered for a Jeep but it is much larger. I used the challenger cap and machined the mounting base flat to work for my 70.

Ha! We're exactly on the same page. I was looking at the Jeep version thinking the flat would help me out, but hadn't considered it being bigger or interference with the trunk key hole, which I'd prefer to keep if possible. I'll look closer at the ODs, thanks for the tip!
I'm right with you, I've got a perfect arced scrape in my painted bumper from my dumb stock cabled cap rubbing!

builttodrive

08-09-2017, 09:26 AM

MTSFabbed: Thanks again! Glad I could help. That was the reason for the build thread.

builttodrive

08-09-2017, 09:41 AM

I have spent a lot of time shaving and cleaning up items from the body but being that the car is a Mach 1 I wanted to keep a few elements the car would have originally had. The first time around I didn't have hood pins but I decided to add them this time. The original Mach 1 twist lock pins are a bit large and chrome so I wanted to look for something a touch smaller and that had a better design to work with my painted theme. I decided I didn't want pins with cables or removable pins because they are a pain when not in use with the hood up. I decided to adapt the 68 Shelby GT500 KR hood pins to work on my 70. I will most likely paint them The gray stripe color.

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bstory62

08-09-2017, 11:22 AM

This looks great. How much did you add below the rocker, quarter and fender? I am thinking about doing it on my falcon.

builttodrive

08-09-2017, 04:59 PM

This looks great. How much did you add below the rocker, quarter and fender? I am thinking about doing it on my falcon.

This is the basic shape and size I used. It was tweaked slightly when I made the piece full length. The rockers and fender portions are the same just finished a little different at the ends. The quarter extensions were slimmer and I had to taper them as I got to the rear so it didn't look funny from behind.

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Here is an example of what it will look like once finished. I used the same dimensions for this 69 GT I did a while back.

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builttodrive

08-09-2017, 07:12 PM

Addressing gaps.....
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berdunord

08-11-2017, 05:58 AM

nice build !

builttodrive

08-11-2017, 09:42 AM

nice build !

Thank you!

56rpm

08-11-2017, 09:38 PM

Yes, very nice build. I'm envious of you guys with no fear.

Motown 454

08-12-2017, 06:33 AM

Great build, I like the. Hanged your making. I couldn't believe the difference on the gauge pod when you painted it, really made It pop. Nice work.

builttodrive

08-12-2017, 08:07 AM

Yes, very nice build. I'm envious of you guys with no fear.

Thank you!

builttodrive

08-12-2017, 08:08 AM

Great build, I like the. Hanged your making. I couldn't believe the difference on the gauge pod when you painted it, really made It pop. Nice work.

Thanks! I'm excited to see the gauges in the car soon!

Bossed

08-13-2017, 11:12 AM

Beautiful car, nice execution !!! Keep the updates coming

bstory62

08-15-2017, 07:35 AM

This is the basic shape and size I used. It was tweaked slightly when I made the piece full length. The rockers and fender portions are the same just finished a little different at the ends. The quarter extensions were slimmer and I had to taper them as I got to the rear so it didn't look funny from behind.

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Here is an example of what it will look like once finished. I used the same dimensions for this 69 GT I did a while back.

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Thank you very much. Can't wait to see more of this car!

builttodrive

08-15-2017, 09:40 AM

Beautiful car, nice execution !!! Keep the updates coming

Thank you! Its all in my spare time but I'm working on it daily!

Bstory62: No problem. Hope I could be of some help!

Z06killinSBF

08-15-2017, 09:46 AM

Very nice work, gorgeous car

813Demon340

08-17-2017, 08:01 PM

Great build thread and great work! I really like the mods you're doing, thanks for sharing! Keep up the great work and progress updates.

builttodrive

09-23-2017, 07:16 PM

Very nice work, gorgeous car

Thank You!

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Great build thread and great work! I really like the mods you're doing, thanks for sharing! Keep up the great work and progress updates.

Thank you!

builttodrive

09-23-2017, 07:25 PM

Its been a little while since I last posted but things are still moving. A combination of some end of summer long weekend vacations, working on another project along side mine, and working on buying a new house have slowed things just a bit. Our shop is full to the brim with customer cars so I am borrowing some shop space from the guy who I built the red 69 for and as I use his shop to work on mine I am also helping him on another 69 build he has going. The new house I'm currently working on will have a shop on it so I have a place for the toys and to work on them!

Here is a pic of the other 69 I am helping with along side my 70 in my spare time.
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builttodrive

09-23-2017, 07:35 PM

I am getting closer to being ready to prime the car. There is some fine tuning to do but the bulk of the filler work and blocking are done until primer. I took a fair amount of time working dents and had a friend come in for some PDR stuff but a little filler was needed to get it where I wanted. The car will be a driver but I still want to be proud of the work and have it do our shop justice when it's out and about.

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Badhand

09-24-2017, 02:31 AM

Really nice car! Great work and some ideas I'll be stealing for my '69 project. ;)

builttodrive

01-15-2018, 07:11 PM

Really nice car! Great work and some ideas I'll be stealing for my '69 project. ;)

Thanks!

builttodrive

01-15-2018, 07:24 PM

I'm still working on my project but I have lots of things going on right now so I haven't gotten in near as much time as I would like. I tore the car down and have started final prep before I start spraying primer and paint. I also added some additional shock tower braces just for some more strength along with some extra welding to beef things up a bit. I will be applying some heavier bed liner product to the underside for protection and some sound deadening. The current plan is to use some lizard skin sound control and ceramic products on the inside of the car along with Dynamat. I originally had the engine bay gloss black with a textured finish but have sanded that down smooth and will do some body work over the holes I have welded up and I will paint the engine bay body color this time around.

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Max Power

01-15-2018, 09:47 PM

builttodrive

01-16-2018, 05:27 AM

Am loving the tower mods. Nice work on everything you've done.
I wanted to the same mods to mt 69. Someone has already hacked up the inner big block bracing on mine so they need attention anyway. How much more access to you believe you will have now to the plugs and header bolts?

Thank you! I should have gained around 2" per side of clearance since that is the max I went in on the notch but it's a little hard to tell exactly where the plugs and headers will rest once the engine is in place but I'm guessing it is very close to that. I'm sure it is in the 1-2" range on each side though for sure and it should make a big difference!

builttodrive

07-29-2018, 05:38 PM

It's been a while since the last post but a busy home life has made it hard to keep things moving very fast. I'm still working on the car trying to accomplish at least a little something each day. I now have the car prepped and will start getting the priming and blocking done along with painting the interior, underside, and engine bay. Here are a few progress photos of the car sealed in a PPG Epoxy and then a PPG primer surfacer.

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Bossed

07-31-2018, 03:38 PM

Glad to see your progress. Can't wait to see updates.

builttodrive

08-04-2018, 05:12 PM

Glad to see your progress. Can't wait to see updates.

Thanks! It's nice to see some more visual progress that's for sure.

builttodrive

08-04-2018, 05:25 PM

I had a little vacation time built up so I decided to do something fun...like work on my own car:jump: It was time to get some material on the car and keep the bare metal surfaces from wanting to flash rust. I started on the inside and I would like the car to be as cool and quiet as possible. I sprayed an epoxy down and seem sealed everything followed up with Lizard skin sound control, Lizard skin ceramic coating, a little bed liner here and there and also some low gloss black paint.

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I may be going overkill here but we are big fans of the Dynamat at our shop and I decided to lay some of that down as well.

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builttodrive

08-04-2018, 06:07 PM

Next on the list was the bottom. The bottom was mostly in need of a freshen up from the last restoration I did. When I originally restored the car in school there were only partial patch panels available and being a rookie my installation of them isn't how I would perform them today. I decided the repairs were done well just not as cosmetically pleasing as I would do them today and doctored the underside up rather than replacing everything with new complete panels. It's going to be a driver and it will function just fine. I wasn't worried about making the bottom real pretty since it wasn't perfect anyway and it's going to see plenty of abuse.

I sealed everything up again with a coat of epoxy primer, followed up with more seam sealing, and gave it a full coat of a kevlar bed liner. (pictures may not be in exact order)

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builttodrive

08-04-2018, 07:10 PM

Next up was the engine bay. I like a clean engine bay but still wanted a little flash so I smoothed it out a bit and decided to go body color. I like to pretty the engine up rather than cover it up with fancy sheet metal panels. I started by welding and patching all the unwanted holes. A little body work to smooth things out after that. I proceeded with a coat of epoxy, more seam sealing, a coat of sealer, and base coat followed by clear.

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builttodrive

08-12-2018, 11:27 AM

I let the paint sit for a couple days and then gave the clear a good wet sand and buffing. I also started adding a few components that are easier to install now before I get the engine in place. After that I started with the suspension and steering. I went with the Ride tech level 2 coil over system both front and rear. The front is pretty straight forward. The rear has a little more involved and they have updated the rear cradle since earlier system and it uses some different mounting. One thing not mentioned in the instructions is the rear hard brake line bracket will need to be removed for the cradle to go into place properly.

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50dan

08-12-2018, 04:17 PM

What steering setup are you using? Power or manual?

Nice build love it!!!

builttodrive

08-12-2018, 05:43 PM

What steering setup are you using? Power or manual?

Nice build love it!!!

Thank you!

I am currently running a Randall's power steering rack.

fvike

08-18-2018, 11:48 AM

Hi, nice build! Sorry about the crash, it's a situation that sucks. I know firsthand. Anyways, what front hub is that? What brake package are you running ? Is it the '70 spindle?

builttodrive

08-18-2018, 05:59 PM

Hi, nice build! Sorry about the crash, it's a situation that sucks. I know firsthand. Anyways, what front hub is that? What brake package are you running ? Is it the '70 spindle?

Thank You! The front hub is a Bear hub for the T4 13" front brake package and I am running the SS4 13" I believe from Bear in the rear. I have the 70 Disc Brake spindles on there with this package. I also had a set of the Drum spindles that are noted to be stronger than the disc but sold them to a friend.

Wikdstang

08-19-2018, 09:38 AM

Which shock tower brace is that?

builttodrive

08-19-2018, 06:02 PM

Which shock tower brace is that?

The outer shock tower brace is one from Global West that I have modified slightly and added an additional brace tied to the torque boxes.

Wikdstang

08-19-2018, 07:06 PM

What about the export brace? I'm running ridetech setup in the front also and wanted to put some kind of export brace back on.

Dalpilot

08-19-2018, 07:08 PM

Very nice. I sure miss mine.

builttodrive

08-19-2018, 07:45 PM

What about the export brace? I'm running ridetech setup in the front also and wanted to put some kind of export brace back on.

I'm using the Total control full export brace. I made a custom shock tower plate that works with the mounting for the total control export brace but has the Ridetech bolt pattern and the correct bore for the coil over shock mounting....it also works for the air system.

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Very nice. I sure miss mine.

Thank You! I plan to keep this one as long as I live and would like to see it be passed down to my kids one day.

Wikdstang

08-21-2018, 03:11 AM

Thanks! That's exactly what I'm doing. The plates looked a bit different so that's why I asked. I had to make my own plates also because of the ridetech coilovers.

builttodrive

09-12-2018, 06:49 PM

Thanks! That's exactly what I'm doing. The plates looked a bit different so that's why I asked. I had to make my own plates also because of the ridetech coilovers.

You bet! Great minds think alike.

builttodrive

09-12-2018, 07:04 PM

After getting the car off the rotisserie and set on some stands I got it leveled and started preparing to get my ride tech suspension installed.

I made some 4 1/2" spacers to set a temporary ride height as suggested in the ride tech instructions to aid in the placement of the upper 4 link mounting tabs. My rear end housing didn't quite agree with the supplied mounting tabs but a quick call to ride tech got my issue squared away. They were quick to send me out a set of tabs that worked better for my particular rear end housing with friendly service and of course no charge. It was suggested that I start with the pinion angle set to 3 degrees and just tack the tabs in place for now. I wanted to make the car a roller for now and I am waiting for final welding of the tabs once I have my driveline in and I can double check the angles.

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builttodrive

09-12-2018, 07:18 PM

My current wheel and tire combo is most likely temporary and I will probably go with a 18 or 19 inch wheel with wider widths once I have a better idea of what will all work. In the rear I'm sitting pretty good to the outside and would mostly just go wider to the inside. The current 305/30-20 sits in there with plenty of room and I have a strong 1 1/2" to work with in the wheel house but the first area I would make contact as it sits would be the lower 4 link arm. I have roughly 3/4" gap between the arm and the tire now but changing the style of arm with a different joint like ride techs R-joint and a little spacing could gain me some extra room. I'll know more on the front once I have the front end together and everything sitting how I like.

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WallaceMFG

09-13-2018, 07:41 AM

Very nice work so far! My Dad and I have a 70 Mach 1 waiting in a garage for us to get to, I can't wait to get going on it!

Keep the progress coming.

Boss5Oh

09-13-2018, 09:08 AM

Good work and great progress. I just joined recently and found your thread today. I also have a 1970 Mach 1 which will be a full restomod including TCP suspension, Coyote power, and 6R80 AT.

Keep up the good work.

Alan

builttodrive

09-13-2018, 09:27 AM

Very nice work so far! My Dad and I have a 70 Mach 1 waiting in a garage for us to get to, I can't wait to get going on it!

Keep the progress coming.

Thanks! I really enjoy my 70 Mach 1 and since I have been without it as I rebuild it I'm really getting anxious to have it done and back on the road.

- - - Updated - - -

Good work and great progress. I just joined recently and found your thread today. I also have a 1970 Mach 1 which will be a full restomod including TCP suspension, Coyote power, and 6R80 AT.

Keep up the good work.

Alan

Thanks! That sounds like it will be an awesome build that will handle and have a great engine/trans combo in one of the best looking cars ever made...I might be bias.

builttodrive

09-25-2018, 06:33 PM

I now have the car supporting itself again on the wheels and tires as a roller and will be able to start blocking out primer soon. I am awaiting a little free space in the shop to start on it but in the mean time I have started to tackle a few other odds and ends like the dash. I decided to dial back the color in the interior a little and try something a little more subtle and closer to the original look but brought up to date a little bit and still different. I really like how it turned out and the brushed steel makes some nice changes in the different lighting and is more sporty than the original wood grain.

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builttodrive

02-10-2019, 06:31 PM

Another update:

It's been a while since I have had any updates but I have been busy working on the car like normal. I thought I would wait with any updates until they were a little more significant.

Its been busy in the shop and finding time to get my car in the booth has been tough. In the mean time I had another little interior project. I want to give a modern twist on the original 70 Mach 1 interior. I decided to incorporate some of the original pieces I originally kept out. One of those is the deluxe door panel courtesy lights. I had custom aluminum ones made to replace the original chrome pot metal pieces and had Mach 1 cut through it so I could have the name Mach 1 illuminate through it when you open the door.

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builttodrive

02-10-2019, 06:36 PM

I finally found a little time to get some of the painting done and started with the main body and the rear portion. I stuck with the same color combo again both from Ford. Orange Crush Pearl for the main color and Shadow Gray Metallic for the accent color.

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Boss5Oh

02-11-2019, 06:50 PM

The color is stunning. I can't wait to see the pictures as you reassemble the car.

builttodrive

02-12-2019, 08:22 PM

Thank you! I really like the color and it stands out in a crowd even against similar burnt orange colors.

jaybee

02-19-2019, 06:33 PM

I absolutely love that color. The car is going to look fabulous.

builttodrive

03-02-2019, 07:34 PM

I absolutely love that color. The car is going to look fabulous.

Thanks John!

Dalpilot

03-04-2019, 08:41 PM

Gorgeous

builttodrive

03-17-2019, 05:09 PM

Gorgeous

Thank You!

builttodrive

03-17-2019, 05:27 PM

I had a little time this weekend to start getting the driveline in the car. I have a lot of polishing and detailing to do but its starting to come together. I also got the headers on to see how my transmission crossmember notches will work out along with the shock tower notches and I'm pleased with the extra clearance. The FPA headers fit like a glove and are well built! I had my Silver Fox AOD transmission freshened up and got it reinstalled.

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builttodrive

03-25-2019, 06:24 PM

I'm waiting for the booth to be open for an opportunity to spray the remaining parts but in the mean time I've been busy with the mechanical side. I installed a Tin Man Fabrication drive shaft loop for safety and to make sure I'm legal to run slicks at the track. While I was under the car and had the welder handy I decided to tackle the exhaust also. I purchased one of the Magnaflow Tru X 3" exhaust systems and began fitting and trimming all the pieces. We use a lot of these kits In our shop and they feature high quality stainless tubes that are mandrel bent. I substituted the included mufflers for something a little more exotic from Spintech Mufflers. The kit is also intended to be routed over the axle but with my Ride Tech four link there isn't much room. So I cut it apart and got creative going under the axle and out the back like a Mach 1 is supposed to. I loaded up the mig welder with stainless and got it together.

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Motown 454

03-25-2019, 06:30 PM

I don't know where to start! I love the dash and gauges, the lighted Mach1 badges are sweet!! I love that color!! it's gorgeous.

builttodrive

03-25-2019, 06:56 PM

I don't know where to start! I love the dash and gauges, the lighted Mach1 badges are sweet!! I love that color!! it's gorgeous.

Thanks Wayne!
I started through your Camaro build and I don't know where to start there either! Really nice project! I hope to build a nice 69 Camaro for myself one day.

builttodrive

04-06-2019, 08:17 PM

I had another opening in the booth and made some time to get some more painting done. It feels good to have the big stuff painted. I still have a few rounds of smaller parts but there is light at the end of the tunnel.

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samuel642000

04-08-2019, 05:12 AM

I need that paint on my car! Beautiful and great work!

builttodrive

04-08-2019, 06:08 PM

I need that paint on my car! Beautiful and great work!

Thank you! I appreciate it!

builttodrive

08-01-2019, 02:19 AM

It's been a busy summer like always but I'm still getting a fair amount done on the Mach 1. The wiring is about 90% done and I have got the car up and running. I wanted to add a little video I had but it's on my phone and I wasn't having any luck adding it here. It sure feels good to be this far and I really missed the sound! The engine bay is mostly squared away and really only have the shaker scoop to add.

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builttodrive

08-01-2019, 02:25 AM

I still have a lot to assemble and even paint yet but I have a small start on the interior. I fitted a Mustangs to fear one piece headliner in the car. It took a lot of trimming and test fitting until it was right. I then had a friend who has an interior shop wrap it in leather and we added a little design to it mimicking the mach 1 hood stripe on the car. I think it turned out pretty cool and it's better seen in person of course.

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builttodrive

08-01-2019, 02:32 AM

The rear of the car is coming together nicely and I'm glad I took the time to make the challenger gas door work! I have to pull the rear axle out yet and do my final welding for the ride tech four link tabs. While I have that out I will freshen it up and also add new paint. I have a roush yates Nascar detroit locker installed and the high spring rates in those make a lot of noise so I may install a lighter one and not sure if I will stay with the 3.89 gears or go to 3.70's this time around.

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builttodrive

08-01-2019, 02:36 AM

The personalized Dakota Digital gauges are looking good and I really like how much brighter and easier they are to see. The metal wrap I had done on the bezels looks like it will tie in with the interior well.

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builttodrive

08-04-2019, 06:20 PM

Here is a link to the first start up on the car. It's On my phone so quality isn't the best but turned out ok.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HPksDsLI2c

Boss5Oh

08-04-2019, 07:49 PM

builttodrive

08-05-2019, 04:20 AM

Congrats on the first start. The 409 sounds really good at idle, looking forward to hearing it bark a bit when the throttle is opened.

Which SpinTech muffler did you select, is that the quiet one or the louder version? I plan to make calls to SpinTech and Magniflow tomorrow to try to decide on an exhaust for my Coyote Powered 70 Mach 1. If SpinTechs side exhaust system will work with their subframe connectors, that is the ticket. If not, I will be going with the Magniflow 2 1/2 inch system and route under my TCP 4-link like what you have done. I have the reinforced axle housing and their is no room to pass the exhaust up and over the axle.

Keep up the good work and thanks for your replies to my questions through PMs.

Alan, If you look back through my posts you'll see my exhaust setup. It's a Magnaflow system that I had to route under the axle. I substituted Spintech Mufflers in place of the Magnaflows because a prefer the sound over a Magnaflow in my application. In other applications like your 5.0 the Magnaflows can sound good though. I have the Spintech 3000 series in low profile form and they are on the louder side. However my parents have a 2014 Mustang 5.0 with Spintech 6000 series I believe and it still has a good amount of volume but it sounds really good and has no drone. Unfortunately the video doesn't do it justice. You get the idea how it sounds but it is much better in person. I can't go anywhere without someone asking me what I have for exhaust and how good it sounds.

Boss5Oh

08-05-2019, 12:56 PM

Maybe an illusion, but looking at your exhaust, it looks like the pipes have been flattened or replaced with oval tubing? I am looking at the Magaflow Tru-X 2 1/2 system and plan to call them. The Tru-X systems seem to have more pieces making custom installation easier. Since SpinTech is known for their oval tubing, did you by any chance substitute some of their oval pipe when you installed their mufflers? I want to avoid buying a kit only to replace half of it with another vendors components.

I have a TCP custom 9 inch rear axle with reinforcement, so I do not have a roundish pumpkin like yours. I really like the routing on your exhaust below the rear axle and to the outside as that is about my only option. As you pointed out, not much room left above the axle with the TCP 4-link installed.

Sorry about all the questions, but you are at a point in your build where you have worked out solutions to problems I am encountering now.

builttodrive

08-05-2019, 06:10 PM

Boss5Oh

08-06-2019, 07:05 AM

I looked closely at the TCP rear suspension and noted that the splined anti-sway bar is in the way of having exhaust go under the rear axle. So no way to go under or over the axle. So it is back to the idea of doing a side exit exhaust. I have the SpinTech subframe connectors, so I put the PS connector in place for evaluation. The end of the subframe connector drops down about an inch below the rear frame rail. I do not want the exhaust to hang any lower than necessary, so it looks like I am going to have to rework the end of the subframe connectors.

BTW, did you use the aggressive, 333SCS or a quieter 333DSC SpinTech mufflers? I plan to go with the quieter ones as I plan to drive the car long distances and I am getting too old to deal with it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/zrUld0Fl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2019/08/OtE8ooWl-1.jpg

builttodrive

08-06-2019, 06:38 PM

Alan, Yeah you may have your work cut out for you there. I think think in a boss 302 tribute car like you are doing the side exhaust would work well and be a little like the 302 trans am cars. I have the more aggressive Spin Tech mufflers on mine but I'm sure you would want something more tame especially if you will have the exhaust out the side before the axle. The shorter the system the louder. I picked my suspension partially based on being able to get my exhaust out the back because that was a must for my car. Street or track was another candidate and TCP also.

Boss5Oh

08-07-2019, 07:41 PM

Thanks again and yes the Trans Am look would be what I am looking for, just have to make it work. With the power and torque of the Coyote, I felt having subframe connectors to be a necessity. SpinTech makes a muffler called the Sportsman XR90 which has a 90 degree exit. I think I can make the side exit exhaust work using the XR90s. I actually found a picture on their website that shows a 90 exit, but interestingly enough, the exit placement is different from the XR90. I plan to have a discussion with SpinTech tomorrow to discuss piecing together components that should work. I will have to modify the end of the subframe connector where it connects to the rear frame rails to tighten up the fit to the frame rails. This is just another of those situations where making everything work together is custom in some way or another. Just part of the journey, but it sure gets frustrating at times. The end result will be worth the effort, just need to chill a bit and it will work out in time.

Tincup

08-08-2019, 03:44 AM

Your doing an awesome job, love everything about this build. Can't wait to see it finished...

builttodrive

08-08-2019, 06:37 PM

Your doing an awesome job, love everything about this build. Can't wait to see it finished...

Thanks Mike! Appreciate the compliment! Your D100 truck project is killer along with the Dart too!

builttodrive

08-09-2019, 06:22 PM

Starting to look a little more like a car. It's always fun getting panels to line back up after paint. It seems like they fit so well when they are in the bodywork stages and it's a struggle after paint. It will get there though!

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Boss5Oh

08-09-2019, 06:32 PM

Looking real good, the color really stands out!

Question, I do not see mounting holes for the side mirror, what are your plans there?

builttodrive

08-09-2019, 06:41 PM

Looking real good, the color really stands out!

Question, I do not see mounting holes for the side mirror, what are your plans there?

No mirrors, the car has pretty much been clean shaven of mirrors, handles, locks, side marker lights, wipers, and body seams that are not needed. Most of this was done the first time I restored the car and I was going for a ultra clean look. I still like the look and although some of the things wouldn't be that hard to add back I haven't felt the need to. Really the only mirrors I like on these cars are the sport mirrors but they are so small you can hardly see anything in them anyway. Add a bumpy camshaft to the mix and you really can't see out of them. Luckily I live in a state that doesn't require any kind of inspection and there really isn't any laws requiring any of it.

builttodrive

08-20-2019, 06:53 PM

Another shot of the car coming together and all the glass now installed.

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builttodrive

08-20-2019, 07:06 PM

A shot of the trunk before the interior process gets started. I mounted my sub amp to the back seat metal divider on the stationary back seat. It won't be the easiest to get to but I should only have to set it once and will be able to access it from the interior or the trunk side. There will be a removable panel on the inside of the trunk to hide it and there is a nice space behind the rear seat and in front of the trunk that allows for storage for things like a detail bag that can easily be kept in there and remain out of site at a show or something like that.

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builttodrive

08-20-2019, 07:12 PM

Interior wiring is getting close to done accept where the interior items come into play like the center console, kick panels with speakers and door courtesy lights. I started putting some of the dash together and got to see the Dakota Digital VLC clock light up for the first time.

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Revvv

08-21-2019, 12:15 AM

Gorgeous Mustang, and amazing work.

builttodrive

08-21-2019, 09:18 AM

Gorgeous Mustang, and amazing work.

Thank You! I appreciate it!

builttodrive

09-06-2019, 07:05 PM

I am trying to get the car ready for upholstery and although I have some smaller pieces here and there and a good portion of the front of the car to paint still I wanted to get the car able to drive and stop. I pulled the rear axle out to finish the welding of the Ride Tech four link mounting tabs and give everything a fresh paint job. I also went through the center section of the 9" to freshen it up along with changing from a 3.89 gear ratio and went with a 3.70 Motive gear. I am reusing my Nascar Detroit locker and quick performance 31 spline axles.

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builttodrive

09-06-2019, 07:12 PM

I am trying to do as much as I can to save as much as possible on the project so I have started installing some of the interior pieces that are ready to go in. The dash pad is just sitting on here in these picture and I will have to make quite a few adjustments before its fitting right but it was nice to get a little visual of how it going to look. The dash is wrapped in leather with an orange stitch to tie in with the exterior paint color.

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Boss5Oh

09-07-2019, 07:45 PM

builttodrive

09-07-2019, 08:14 PM

Love the dash and the dash pad stitching. Appears you had it done custom or was it a restitched aftermarket pad? I plan to steal your idea and do the brushes steel wrap on the gauge bezels. That is an awesome look that appears factory if you did not know it was originally a wood grain finish.

What paint did you use on the rear axle housing? What I used on mine is not as robust as I hoped and it scratches more easily than I expected, so I will be redoing mine in the future. What do you recommend for painting items like this as well as brackets, chassis, etc.? I was thinking of using something like the Eastwood chassis black with some kind of primer if needed.

Keep up the progress, the car should be on the road soon.

Alan

Thanks Alan!

The dash was a new aftermarket pad that a friend of mine wrapped in leather and added the stitching. It stinks the car is sitting in a dark shop right now and I need to use the flash on my camera phone so it shows up in pictures but the flash gives everything in the interior a purple/blue look. The dash looks much better in person. For the rear end housing and other black parts I have been using PPG industrial single stage low gloss black.

builttodrive

09-15-2019, 07:33 PM

Luckily the shop I am doing most of the work on the car at is right across the road from our body shop so its pretty easy to go back and forth for the painting portions. I hadn't got the initial cut and buff done on the fenders yet so now that I had the car running and able to be driven I sat on the floor and idled it over this weekend to smooth and shine them up. Its was the first time I had really had the chance to see the car out in the sun. Although I repainted the car the same color as previous I went with a different line of PPG to save a little as the cost of this color has more than tripled since the last time I painted it. The color has a little different look to it than the first time around but I really am liking it. The flop in the pearl isn't as extreme and it has a much richer appearance both in and out of the sun.

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builttodrive

10-28-2019, 06:22 PM

I got another round of small parts painted here the other day and was able to finish up the rear of the car. The first time I smoked the tail light lenses in the gray body color and it had a nice look however the metallic in the base, even though it was very light made it so the tail lights weren't as bright as they should be. This time I went with just a black tinted clear coat and went till the lenses just looked a dark red. Since the lenses sit tucked back in the bezels it really helps shadow them and they appear darker. In the one picture I have just the tail light on which is pretty bright and the brake lights are bright enough they are hard to look at but since I was by myself I didn't get a pic. I should be able to really get going on the interior now and I have one final round of front end parts to paint.

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c91x

10-29-2019, 08:55 AM

Maybe I missed it but whats the color?

builttodrive

10-29-2019, 06:08 PM

Maybe I missed it but whats the color?

It's a Ford color called Orange Crush Pearl.

chunger

10-31-2019, 03:45 PM

builttodrive

10-31-2019, 06:11 PM

Car is looking amazing! This color really makes it pop. I like what you did with the dash panels. They appear to a brushed/stainless look where the woodgrain usually goes. How did you accomplish this? Is it painted, if so, can you share the color?

Thank you! The dash pieces were wrapped in a 3m vinyl called brushed steel. They offer a few other options but that is the one I liked best for my application.

builttodrive

11-03-2019, 05:20 AM

This weekend I got a lot of little things squared away so that even though there are a few front end parts to paint and put on the car it should be far enough along to go to upholstery. I also got the shaker air cleaner put on this weekend. I had kind of a happy accident with the shaker scoop years ago. I was out for a spirited drive and caught a bird in the front and it knocked out the grill portion. I decided to modify what was there rather than buying a new one and I really like the look that it has now.

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F23

11-05-2019, 04:19 AM

I honestly forgot that grille was even there, and it looks so much cleaner and meaner without it! Loving the build so far!

ProTouringCuda

11-05-2019, 09:29 AM

I must say - very nice work! I'm partial to the first gen's (64.5-66 :: i know, some call 64.5-73 first gens - don't agree with that :) ) but you, my friend, have put together a fine specimen.

builttodrive

11-05-2019, 07:12 PM

I honestly forgot that grille was even there, and it looks so much cleaner and meaner without it! Loving the build so far!

I thought the same thing. I knew I wasn't out anything to try and modify it by removing the rest of the grill and just like you said it gives a cleaner and meaner appearance. Thanks!

builttodrive

11-05-2019, 07:16 PM

I must say - very nice work! I'm partial to the first gen's (64.5-66 :: i know, some call 64.5-73 first gens - don't agree with that :) ) but you, my friend, have put together a fine specimen.

Haha! I probably agree with you on that! I really like the 65-70 fastbacks/sportroofs best but also like any fine example of a 64.5-73 too. You have some excellent rides/projects also! Thanks for the compliment!

Mikey97D

11-06-2019, 06:08 AM

I thought the same thing. I knew I wasn't out anything to try and modify it by removing the rest of the grill and just like you said it gives a cleaner and meaner appearance. Thanks!
I like the cleaner and meaner look.

Probably eat the bird whole now! j/k

builttodrive

11-06-2019, 08:46 PM

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I think I did get most of it lol! Thanks!

I like the cleaner and meaner look.

Probably eat the bird whole now! j/k

builttodrive

11-30-2019, 03:33 PM

The car is at the upholstery shop now and while I finish up a few front end items I've been thinking about some future wheel options. I found a wheel I really like by Billet Specialties a while back but was told it had been discontinued. Now I get a Black Friday deal from Billet Specialties sent from a friend but I didn't have a wheel picked out yet. For fun today I had time to kill and jumped on their web page and the wheel I liked is shown on the website again. What do you guys think of these?

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Tsaints1115

12-01-2019, 03:42 AM

They're nice but it's also a design that can be found at many manufacturers if Billet Specialties lets you down.

dhutton

12-01-2019, 05:07 AM

That style of wheel seems dated imho.

Don

builttodrive

12-01-2019, 06:25 AM

They're nice but it's also a design that can be found at many manufacturers if Billet Specialties lets you down.

Yeah I know it's a pretty common style made by most manufacturers. I just like the unique spoke design on these that most don't have. I also like a wheel by Forgeline that is similar.

builttodrive

12-01-2019, 06:29 AM

That style of wheel seems dated imho.

Don

Definitely a design that's been around a while I agree. But my current wheel is too and I have had them on the car since 2004. Having a hard time finding a wheel I really like to replace it with. I really want a higher quality wheel than what I have currently in different sizes also. I'd like to stick to something in a five spoke or split five spoke design.

Ozzlynn69

12-01-2019, 12:21 PM

Hi. Your car is stunning and every mans dream. We are working on a 69 and having the same issues with the shock tower plates. We have Ridetech coil overs and TCP export kit. Would you be able to tell me where you had those shock tower plates made? If I could call them and ask them to make a set exactly like yours then that would truly be a blessing. Your plates are EXACTLY what we need. Any help would be very appreciated.

Ozzlynn69

12-01-2019, 12:32 PM

I'm using the Total control full export brace. I made a custom shock tower plate that works with the mounting for the total control export brace but has the Ridetech bolt pattern and the correct bore for the coil over shock mounting....it also works for the air system.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank You! I plan to keep this one as long as I live and would like to see it be passed down to my kids one day.

Hi. First time using the forum. I think I may have asked the question in the wrong place as it posted at the end. Your car is awesome. It’s done to perfection for sure. Those shock tower plates are awesome and exactly what we need... we have the Ridetech coil overs and TCP export kit just like yours. Could you please let me know what company you used to cut/make those shock tower plates? I would love to call them and order an identical set for my 69. Thank you for the help.

builttodrive

12-01-2019, 12:48 PM

Hi. First time using the forum. I think I may have asked the question in the wrong place as it posted at the end. Your car is awesome. It’s done to perfection for sure. Those shock tower plates are awesome and exactly what we need... we have the Ridetech coil overs and TCP export kit just like yours. Could you please let me know what company you used to cut/make those shock tower plates? I would love to call them and order an identical set for my 69. Thank you for the help.

No problem and thank you! I had a local machine shop make them for me. They have actually made a few sets for different cars over the years and we are actually having them make another set now. I can see if they would be interested in making and selling a set. The owner is a personal friend and he is making them for us as a favor.

Boss5Oh

12-09-2019, 06:53 PM

builttodrive

12-10-2019, 06:53 PM

I am really a fan of what you did with your gauge pod. I started disassembling mine yesterday and after disassembly and cleanup I have a few questions. On the metal surround that has woodgrain finish, did you remove the woodgrain vinyl before applying the brushed steel vinyl? The woodgrain vinyl appears thicker than modern wrap vinyls. My woodgrain on the gauge pod is in good condition, just wondering what you did and why. The plastic surround with the simulated texture is finished in a mate black finish, any recommendations on a rattle can product with the same color that will hold up? Last, the gauge bezels are finished in a mate dark blue grey metallic finish. Is there a rattle can product that would replicate what the factory did for these parts? For the rim of the bezels I was thinking of using a chrome silver metallic paint and a brush to try to replicate the original chrome finish. I was thinking of using the Testors Chrome Silver paint they make for models to do this.

With a little repainting I think the gauge pod should come out similar to yours. Now my clock panel is a whole different story as the metal with the woodgrain rusted severely. I am afraid I will have to go with repop stuff for those pieces.

Thanks,

Alan

Alan, I know there are different paint offerings from catalogs that may include the correct paint and colors to refinish the bezels. It will take some patience and probably some fine line tape masking. For my car I reused the clock metal face and reconditioned it. I removed the woodgrain and sanded down the panel to bare steel and smoothed it out with bodywork and primer because it isn't the straightest piece. I then had the metal wrap applied to that and the metal portion of the gauge cluster bezel. There are companies that restore these panels and can even vacuum plate chrome the areas outlining the gauges etc. I had painted the plastic portions of the gauge and clock bezel to match the exterior paint color of the car many years ago and so for me it was easier and relatively inexpensive to just buy new plastic bezels from Dynacorn since I am a dealer.

Thanks
Greg

builttodrive

02-15-2020, 09:33 AM

A little progress on the car. I got the front end together and even used the car for a booth we had at an indoor car show. Also getting some upholstery going but it’s been slow. Seats are out of a 09 mustang and I did black leather with carbon fiber inserts along with orange stitch and alcantera inserts also. We did a laser etch for the Mach 1 in the backrest for a subtle detail. Have to decide if I want to add the headrests or keep them off.

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Boss5Oh

02-15-2020, 07:12 PM

builttodrive

02-16-2020, 01:19 PM

Wow is all I can say, spectacular build.

The painted trim around the windows, especially at the rear, make it look like you did flush mounted glass, nice!

At the grill, it looks like you made a filler panel. Was that custom or is there a vendor who makes that piece.

Looks like you are almost done. Are you keeping this one or is it going to auction?

Thank you for the kind words!
The grill to radiator support cover is just a boughten piece I got many years ago. It's a pretty common item from many mustang supply catalogs. A lot of people build their own and it would be a pretty simple piece to make but it was cheap, looks pretty good, and really aids in cooling along with covering up the ugly bug guts in the radiator once I'm driving it more again. I have had this car since I was 17 in High School and have become pretty attached so I plan to keep it and enjoy it with my family and two boys.

Greg

builttodrive

07-01-2020, 08:21 PM

Well it's been a while since my last update but there is still progress being made. I've been doing what I can but the bulk of the project has now been in the hands of the upholstery shop. I have the car home not while the upholstery shop can finish up the last of the items without needing the entire car. Like the rest of the car there are plenty of things that need to be dialed in but the main items I'm waiting on would be the rear seat, rear half of the center console with arm rest and storage cubby, custom floor mats, and wrap the steering wheel to tie in with the new interior.
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The panel in the front of the trunk is held by strong magnets and detaches easily for storage in front of it in the space behind the back seat.
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builttodrive

07-01-2020, 09:03 PM

I brought the car home from the upholstery shop and after 5 years, a move to a new house, and two kids later it feels good to finally have it in my own garage. Even though I'm waiting on some interior pieces at least I can fine tune everything and get it ready. Since the car isn't road ready yet I decided to blow off the dust from hanging around the upholstery shop for months and do a small photo shoot in the backyard since it was a nice day and this was the first time I had a good look at the car all together outside.

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chunger

07-02-2020, 07:13 AM

Car is looking great! Now you just need to find the time to get out there an enjoy it! Go for a drive!

Tsaints1115

07-02-2020, 09:57 AM

Sweet!

Tincup

07-02-2020, 05:25 PM

Nice job....

jaybee

07-02-2020, 06:30 PM

Absolutely beautiful, a car to be proud of.

builttodrive

07-03-2020, 06:19 AM

Car is looking great! Now you just need to find the time to get out there an enjoy it! Go for a drive!

Thanks! A few more things on the list to finish up but hope to be driving it soon.

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Sweet!

Thanks!

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Nice job....

Thank you!

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Absolutely beautiful, a care to be proud of.

Thank you!

builttodrive

08-02-2020, 05:33 AM

Now that I have the car home I have been slowly checking things off the list. First was getting the ride height and stance set and getting the alignment done. After that I decided to put some expel film from the lower body line down to help prevent rock chips. It doesn't look as good as it does with smooth wet sanded paint but it doesn't look bad at all and most people won't even notice unless you pointed it out. I think its going to be worth the protection and I can always peel it off.

Next on the list after giving it a couple small test drives around the neighborhood was a final Dyno tune. The terminator EFI I'm running is a self learning system and you can use the hand held controller to fine tune it yourself which I did to some degree but it's hard to beat getting info from the dyno. Just from tweaking things I believe we picked up around 20 hp at the wheels and also learned that the engine liked to keep pulling to around 6,500rpm on the chassis dyno where it stopped around 5,700 on the engine dyno.

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builttodrive

08-02-2020, 07:08 AM

A little more interior progress. The center console is now finished along with the back seat.

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builttodrive

08-03-2020, 07:26 PM

The wife and I were able to take the car out together for the first time in over 6 years to a local cruise in the other night. I'm really liking how everything came together and the new and improved version is definitely just that! The Ridetech coil over suspension rides really well!

One area I am battling is my power steering and Hydratech Hydroboost combination. I was pleased with how the steering felt before but at low speeds while braking and steering I would get a little feedback through the wheel that felt like I would momentarily lose assist. I am using a Randall's rack system that utilizes a GM Jcar rack along with a GM type 2 pump. I spoke with Hydratech and I have tried a few things but it seems like I may have added an issue. In trying to slightly increase pressure from the pump that seemed to help a little with the braking and steering combo issue at low speeds I may have created a new issue. The steering feels a bit touchy at faster speeds. The larger tires in front prevented me from getting a lot of caster but its sitting with about 2.5 degrees positive with a little more on the passenger side. Camber and toe were set for good street manners and tire wear.

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ryeguy2006a

08-07-2020, 03:14 AM

Wow, just read through this whole build. Killer job man!!

454bug

08-07-2020, 06:11 AM

Great job! Nice upgrades in the 2.0 version. Nice to see a project receiving priority through a number of life changes! My hat’s off to you for keeping the focus! :cheers:

Bossed

08-07-2020, 05:34 PM

I've been away for a while, and what a pleasant surprise to come back and catch up with your progress. Really appreciate you sharing pictures and details throughout the process. The car looks amazing 👍👍

builttodrive

08-08-2020, 11:35 AM

Wow, just read through this whole build. Killer job man!!

Thank you sir!!

builttodrive

08-08-2020, 11:39 AM

Great job! Nice upgrades in the 2.0 version. Nice to see a project receiving priority through a number of life changes! My hat’s off to you for keeping the focus! :cheers:

Thank you! Yes it was definitely challenging and the wife was ready for it to be finished up when baby #2 came. It feels great being nearly done!

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I've been away for a while, and what a pleasant surprise to come back and catch up with your progress. Really appreciate you sharing pictures and details throughout the process. The car looks amazing 👍👍

Glad you enjoyed the build thread and thank you!

wfo guy

08-08-2020, 05:33 PM

Looks very good. :)

builttodrive

08-15-2020, 09:36 AM

Looks very good. :)

Thank you!

builttodrive

08-16-2020, 05:27 AM

Had the car out a little more this last week and had some time to fine tune a few more things. This has always been my favorite car but I forgot how ridiculously fun it is to drive and the crazy amount of attention it gets.

I'm still sorting out my power rack and pinion steering relationship to my Hydratech hydroboost brakes but I did get a little bit of it sorted out. I have a little feedback with my steering that is more like a momentary loss of power steering when I apply the brakes that seems to be mostly at slower speeds. I am wondering if I need more volume from the GM type 2 pump or if the pressure valve is sticking. I increased both volume and pressure slightly and at first i thought it may have made the steering a little quick and poor at highway speeds but it was the fact that my alignment had gone out of spec with the suspension settling and getting too much toe. After another alignment it seems to drive well again.

Another area I decided to finally take care of was my high metallic brake pads that came with my Baer brake system. They stopped great but when you would apply light brake pressure sounded awful and I couldn't take it anymore. I was told to try some Hawk pads in there and I went with the HPS series. They seem to stop well and are quiet so I'm happy!

chunger

08-17-2020, 07:21 AM

Car looks awesome! Great job!

What kind of numbers did you get on the Dyno?

builttodrive

08-17-2020, 07:25 PM

Car looks awesome! Great job!

What kind of numbers did you get on the Dyno?

Thank you! I'm not sure what to take away from the dyno as he was making the pulls in 2nd gear. He said he assumed I had a highway gear in the car and didn't want to get it spinning so fast with a lot of wheel speed. The best pull showed 351 hp at the wheels. I asked him if that sounded about right for an engine that made nearly 500 at the crank on the engine dyno and he said with the automatic trans, a loose 3,500 stall convertor, 9" rear end, and big heavy wheels and tires it was probably pretty close. From the initial pulls it showed a gain of 25 HP as he was tuning it and it certainly runs better. I'm not sure how to judge the second gear pulls from 1:1 and it was also 91 degrees that day with plenty of humidity.

mc84_zz4

08-19-2020, 12:27 PM

Outstanding build man!
And that paint, spot-on!

builttodrive

08-20-2020, 07:41 PM

Outstanding build man!
And that paint, spot-on!

Thank you! I imagine I would like your Monte also! 1984 would be my year of choice.

builttodrive

08-21-2020, 06:49 PM

I finally got the last few details done for the upholstery and I'm pretty pleased with the total package. I had the MOMO wheel re-done in fresh leather with orange stitch to match along with a set of personalized floor mats to help save the carpet but of course had to have a little detail. They were made from the same German Square Weave carpet and included the alcantara, carbon fiber, and orange stitching. They were laser etched with a nod to the original script that would have been on the stock valve covers.
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thumper877

08-22-2020, 11:40 AM

Those are to nice to step on. U need a set on top of those to protect them lol. Looks beautiful

builttodrive

08-22-2020, 07:41 PM

Those are to nice to step on. U need a set on top of those to protect them lol. Looks beautiful

LOL... Thank you! My old man would agree with that! I think everything he owns is double mated.

Bossed

08-29-2020, 05:28 AM

How do you like the ride quality and overall feel of your suspension setup ?

TANKMASTERJ

08-29-2020, 06:16 AM

Car is a beautiful

builttodrive

08-29-2020, 04:41 PM

How do you like the ride quality and overall feel of your suspension setup ?

I don't have a lot of miles on the car yet but so far I really like the Ridetech setup. I came from a basically stock suspension with lowering springs up front and a lowering blocks in back along with a control arm drop. I would say the Ridetech setup rides better and I anticipate handling has improved but I haven't given that aspect a try yet. I have the coil over adjustment right in the middle where they suggest to start. I will have the opportunity to try it a little more next week at the Sturgis Mustang Rally.

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Car is a beautiful

Thank you!

builttodrive

09-07-2020, 07:53 PM

This labor day weekend I brought the Mach 1 to it's first car show in Sturgis, SD at the 14th Annual Sturgis Mustang Rally. I had spent the last few weeks wet sanding, buffing, and cleaning the car up. I also made some other adjustments to make sure it was road worthy because that area of the state has some pretty fun driving. The car performed awesome and I think my only real area of concern is some EFI fine tuning but nothing major. This event has a lot of fun stuff going on for the Mustang group. There is of course a car show, which was my main area of concern for this year. The fun driving stuff would include poker runs, launch box, burnout competition, barrel racing, drifting, auto cross, and my favorite, the drag races.

I stayed conservative with the event and took the car for a drive through Spearfish Canyon and other hot spots in the area and logged a couple hundred miles to test things out. We even went through the parade that includes a few hundred mustangs normally and It was a good test for the cooling system as temps reached near 100 that afternoon.

I had a great turnout at the car show and won my class that was a 64-78 Custom modified, and also was awarded the 2020 SMR Choice Award. Kind of their version of the Best Of Show or top pick award.

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Bossed

09-12-2020, 04:55 PM

Congrats on winning the awards. Looks like a good time at the event.

Motown 454

09-12-2020, 06:06 PM

That's a beautiful car Well deserved. Nice job sprucing it up!

builttodrive

09-19-2020, 07:59 PM

Congrats on winning the awards. Looks like a good time at the event.

Thank You! I'm sure the car show and awards part isn't a big deal for a lot of the members on the forum and It's not something I get real worked up about myself but it's nice to receive a little recognition. For the most part it just helps draw attention to the shop and hopefully indicates the quality we aim to have on our restorations. The event is really quite fun and I plan to do a lot more of the driving and competing at events like this one after the the newness of the build wares off.

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That's a beautiful car Well deserved. Nice job sprucing it up!

Thanks Wayne! Appreciate it!

builttodrive

09-26-2020, 01:39 PM

Well I've come to the end of this project and although it will never be done or 100% finished I probably don't have a whole lot more to post on. One area I still would like to change would be my wheels and I'm curious what others think. I have a few options I'll post on here and I'd love some input or feedback. Ultimately it will be what I want but for what wheels cost anymore I want to make the right choice and a wheel the masses will like as it will probably be what I stick with for quite a while. My biggest thing with making the change is to give the car a fresh look along with going to either an 18" wheel or 19" or possibly a staggered fitment of each.

These are just a few options I like and if anyone has any other ideas let me know.

Any input is greatly appreciated!
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jaybee

09-26-2020, 03:40 PM

Vogelsong

09-26-2020, 03:57 PM

wfo guy

09-27-2020, 01:06 PM

1 or 2 will be fine. My personal taste is to not go over 17" diameter. Especially with chrome wheels, they tend to over power and look out of place on muscle cars. JMHO.

builttodrive

09-27-2020, 06:25 PM

My vote is #2. The Magnum wheel won't hit the wrong chord with any Mustang lover. Like Tork-Thrusts on a tri-5 Chevy they're never wrong, but they've been done to death. Wheels 4 and 5 look good, I like them, but they risk looking dated in a few years. The 427SC Cobra-style wheel has been sufficiently updated to not look retro, it has enough window area to show off the brakes, and it says Ford without saying you can't think beyond Mustang OEM equipment.

You kinda read my mind. I want the car to be unique and yet I want a wheel that fits the car and will be timeless so I don't have to replace it for a very long time and it will remain a good look. Thanks for the input!

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^ Nailed it.

My 65 Shelby clone will have real knockoffs reminiscent of the cobras... because they’re cool. 👍🏻

Thanks!

builttodrive

09-27-2020, 06:33 PM

1 or 2 will be fine. My personal taste is to not go over 17" diameter. Especially with chrome wheels, they tend to over power and look out of place on muscle cars. JMHO.

I used to like the bigger stuff and when I put the wheels it has now on it was before that was a common thing. 16+ years later my tastes have changed a bit. I think 17" would be fine on this car but my brakes limit me to a minimum of 17" wheels and they have to have the perfect specs to clear. I will likely go 18" with that size having better tire size options. 19"+ wheel sizes get better yet but I want more sidewall on the tire without going to a huge diameter. Thanks for the input!

Tsaints1115

09-28-2020, 06:54 AM

#1 or #4 depending on whether you want to go a bit retro or modern.

builttodrive

09-30-2020, 06:38 PM

I'm kinda leaning towards wheel #2. I think it will look good on the car and have a good blend of a classic wheel that still gives the pro touring feel. The big downside to this wheel is that they only offer them in 18 and 20" sizes. I would prefer to go with the 18" wheel but the tire size options get pretty poor for what I'm wanting. I would go 18x9" in front and 18x11" in the rear but It would force me to go with a drag radial in the rear to get the width and diameter I want. Not sure if that's a big deal for how I intend to use the car right now but it kinda stinks to not have many options.

Tincup

10-01-2020, 07:31 AM

Everybody with a mustang will do #1 or #2, seperate yourself from the crowd, #3 is awesome, #4 is not bad either. Just my 2 cents...

builttodrive

10-01-2020, 09:41 AM

Everybody with a mustang will do #1 or #2, seperate yourself from the crowd, #3 is awesome, #4 is not bad either. Just my 2 cents...

I agree! I like all these options and #3 was my top pick but the cost is a tough one to swallow. Wheel #2 is roughly half the cost of the other three options.

builttodrive

10-04-2020, 07:18 PM

Had the car out a little this morning and decided to make a small idling walk around video of the car for kicks. Gives a better idea of the personality of the car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni8RMSqLg3E

Tincup

10-05-2020, 10:07 AM

I agree! I like all these options and #3 was my top pick but the cost is a tough one to swallow. Wheel #2 is roughly half the cost of the other three options.

The wheels you have on it are real nice wheels. You could paint or powdercoat the centers gray and leave the hoops polished, ar any combination. Mine were originally matt gray centers with polished hoops, I painted them a greenish/gray color in the center, and gloss black on the hoops. Gave the car a whole new attitude.

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builttodrive

10-05-2020, 07:09 PM

[QUOTE=Tincup;1341273]The wheels you have on it are real nice wheels. You could paint or powdercoat the centers gray and leave the hoops polished, ar any combination. Mine were originally matt gray centers with polished hoops, I painted them a greenish/gray color in the center, and gloss black on the hoops. Gave the car a whole new attitude.

Sharp ride Mike! I hear ya! I do still like my wheels and I chose the simple 5 spoke design back in the day because I knew I would probably like them for a long time. There's a part of me that just wants a new wheel for a whole new look on the car but the biggest thing is wanting to go down to a 18-19" wheel for a little more sidewall on the tire and also a bit wider to support a little wider tire. I may have to play around with ideas like you mentioned or run them as is. I'm not having any luck in trying to sell them and really would need to, to help fund a new set.

Thanks Greg

Recipient69

03-16-2021, 10:45 AM

Are able to still use factory motor mounts? Do you have a temp let of the plates?

Jonathonar89

03-16-2021, 08:32 PM

Beautiful car man. Nice.

builttodrive

03-17-2021, 09:27 AM

Are able to still use factory motor mounts? Do you have a temp let of the plates?

Yes you can use stock motor mounts. I am using some aftermarket poly urethane mounts currently but they are the same configuration as the stock mounts. I had stock parts store rubber ones on the car but the rubber started to tare and so I replaced them. I may have a few sets of the plates left. I can check.

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Beautiful car man. Nice.

Thank you!

builttodrive

05-16-2021, 06:56 AM

After looking at a ton of wheel options I ended up going with a Forgeline CFC3 Concave wheel with Forged Charcoal powder coated centers that match my stripe color really well and a polished lip for a little bling. The front wheels are a 18x8.5 and the rears are a 19x10.5 with Nitto Nt555G2's in 245/40-18 and 305/35-19. It's a very different look but I really like it. They kinda need to be seen in person to get a better idea and some better pictures would help but you get the idea.
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thumper877

05-16-2021, 07:34 AM

qnitro

05-16-2021, 08:44 AM

Much better... the car now looks complete.. great job

813Demon340

05-18-2021, 06:17 PM

wfo guy

05-19-2021, 04:09 AM

Very nice. :)

Tincup

05-19-2021, 06:18 AM

Perfect choice..

builttodrive

05-19-2021, 04:44 PM

Very nice and that color looks amazing. I have always loved the older mustang and that color makes it even better. Congrats on a awesome build. Now I'm going on Craigslist and find a mustang lol

Thank you! Haha! good luck on the search!

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Much better... the car now looks complete.. great job

Thank you!

builttodrive

05-19-2021, 04:49 PM

You did an incredible job on this car, the Forgelines were the right choice! You have a thorough attention to detail in your build and its amazing how it all comes together so well. Fantastic job!

BTW, even parked next to a Muira it stands out!

Thanks for the compliment! Yes It's hard to park in the shadow of a Muira! A good friend of mine with an amazing car collection picked up the 67 Muira last spring. That one in particular has some special history with it!

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Very nice. :)

Thanks!

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Perfect choice..

Thank you!

blade

05-21-2021, 06:45 AM

Awesome build! The wheel choice is really great, simple yet very nice and goes well with the car.

CARLMB

05-21-2021, 07:04 AM

I really like this car and color. Awesome job. You mentioned previously it was Orange Crush Pearl paint. What color sealer did you use under the basecoat? Thanks, Carl

builttodrive

05-21-2021, 07:07 PM

Awesome build! The wheel choice is really great, simple yet very nice and goes well with the car.

Thanks! Thats what I was hoping to achieve!

builttodrive

05-21-2021, 07:14 PM

I really like this car and color. Awesome job. You mentioned previously it was Orange Crush Pearl paint. What color sealer did you use under the basecoat? Thanks, Carl

Thank you sir! Yes the color is Orange Crush Pearl. Originally I used a white sealer on the car and the base coat was PPG DBU. This time around I used a medium gray sealer and the base coat was PPG Shop line just to save a little since the paint prices have really come up from 2004 to now. We generally use the DBC line in our shop but the price point was getting up there. The Shop line color is slightly different but you can tell they are the same color. I probably prefer the look it has now over the previous version.

thumper877

05-23-2021, 04:11 AM

Have to ask. Can I see some pics of ur square body. See it in the background. Love them and it looks nice thanks

builttodrive

05-23-2021, 12:25 PM

Have to ask. Can I see some pics of ur square body. See it in the background. Love them and it looks nice thanks

Thanks! Yeah the square body gets it's fair share of attention. It's had a few different looks but here is how I currently have it. I use it as my daily driver to work year round.
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thumper877

05-23-2021, 02:45 PM

Thats the perfect look for the truck. Very nice and very jealous lol.
Thanks! Yeah the square body gets it's fair share of attention. It's had a few different looks but here is how I currently have it. I use it as my daily driver to work year round.
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builttodrive

06-17-2021, 06:41 PM

Thats the perfect look for the truck. Very nice and very jealous lol.

Thank you! I had it pretty good at one time but it was never meant to a show truck by any means. It's been used as my daily driver since 2013 and its starting to show but it still cleans up alright.

builttodrive

06-17-2021, 06:48 PM

I added another little detail here the other day. Originally I wanted to do something custom for the center caps on my Forgeline wheels but I was under the impression from my salesman it wouldn't say Forgeline anywhere else on the wheel but the center cap. When the wheels showed up with Forgeline engraved also on the wheels outer face I decided to add some custom engraved center caps to tie in with the car a little.

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limeyboy

11-23-2021, 09:38 AM

builttodrive

12-05-2021, 08:44 PM

I fell across your car by accident and have to say it's really really nice and has features I would love on my '70 Mach 1.

Can you tell me about your Hurst shifter, I've been looking for a nice looking shifter and yours is the best I've seen by far, I have an FMX behind my Cleveland ( glad to see you are still using a Cleveland) so choice is very small and also I'm in the UK which makes it even harder.
I'm guessing you don't have an FMX but have read that as far as shifters go FMX Vs C4 / C6 the main difference is the neutral safety switch is in the shifter and not on the box, so I may be able to adapt a switch myself.
Any hints / photo's etc you could post would be very helpful, thanks in advance and again that is a great looking car, I'm very jealous of the shock tower mods as I have long tube Hookers fitted by the PO that makes many things difficult!!!

Hey thanks! My car did originally have a FMX in it and then a C4 which is what I had when I originally installed the Hurst Vmatic Shifter. I am now using a ford AOD O/D trans in the car but I can still use the Hurst V-Matic shifter with it. I believe mine is the V-Matic II model and unfortunately they no longer make it. A while back they still offered a V-Matic III however they changed the way the shifter functioned. The II model is a dual gate shifter that will work as a normal automatic shifter would but can be dropped down by pressing down on the shifter in I believe drive and going into a full ratchet mode. I think the III model is a ratchet only shifter.

Hopefully this helps.
Greg