pro touring super bee

[Waynec]

hello

have started a pro touring build here in the uk.thought you may like to see some pics

car was rough to start with.its been to a body shop to have a new roof put on

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car sits quite high

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[Waynec]

wheels are made in the uk.fronts are 20 x 7 and rears are 20 x 10

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had a play around to get ride height


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[PhillipM]

Lookin good. Keep us updated.

[813Demon340]

Cool build! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

[Tincup]

Nice to see another Mopar....

[keepat]

Nice to see another Mopar....

X2!

Good luck with your build, and keep the pictures coming!
Pat

[Waynec]

had some goodies come in from the states

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6.4 hemi

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and a tremec 6 speed

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[wfo guy]

Now I'm interested!

[Motown 454]

Nice Project!

[813Demon340]

What are you doing for the K frame? Stock or RMS?

[Waynec]

This is having a full chassis put under,so the front end is one off

[Waynec]

for the front end were using wilwwod pro spindles,discs and calipers


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used a ford thunderbird rack,and made my own control arms

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the centre section of the front clip is only temporary,and will be replaced with tube work that will cradle the sump.

didn't realise until the crate was opened,that this was a front sumped engine.had to order in a middle sump from the states.thats one of the downsides to building in the uk.certain parts needed,usually takes one to two weeks, to get here

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[Waynec]

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[813Demon340]

Beautiful chassis work. Don't see that too often on Mopars.

[keepat]

Very cool build!
Pat

[Waynec]

some more

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[Waynec]

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[Waynec]

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[Zspoiler]

Look ! all sorts of toys.I have never seen a Super Bee Pro-Toured.Just mostly Chargers.You are going surprise a lot of people.Very nice.

[E.rodz]

love to see someone with a mopar Not afraid to cut one up! keep up the great work!

[Johnny Blaze]

First off, I'm largley a chevy guy, but I have always been a fan of that body. Had a model of it as a kid.

Second, YES! Love it! Can't wait to see it finished!

[MOREHORSEPOWER]

Very cool project !! Love all the fab work your doing !!

[Z06killinSBF]

Nice fab work! This is going to be very nice

[Waynec]

thanks for the coments

made some headers

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[Waynec]

and the exhaust

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[Waynec]

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[Waynec]

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[Waynec]

any moper guru,s reading this.we have hit a snag with the engine and box.

engines a gen 3 6.4 hemi.

gearbox is a tremec six speed with a Lakewood(quicktime) bellhousing.we cant find out what starter motor fits.the company who supplied the engine,supplied a starter that didn't fit.we think it was for an original bell housing.

the company who sold us the gearbox and bell housing didn't really know what starer to use but gave us a link to one that should.

it didn't

weve tried getting in contact with Lakewood but they have no contact details as they are part of the holley group.

we,ve phoned the holley tech helpline,only to be told someone would contact us back.they never do.

anyone help.ive nearly finished this car and still we don't know what we need.its a pain as we have to ship from the states,and it gets expensive buying parts by guessing

[wfo guy]

I have a friend that has an 11 challenger srt8. he had to order a starter just for his engine. None of the others work because of the block mounting. Is that the trouble you're having or is it flywheel diameter and pinion engagement?

[Waynec]

Its getting one to fit the bolt/hole patern on the bellhousing.

Thats why we tried to get hold of lakewood.they designed the housing to mate the box to the engine,so they should know what starter to use.

Ill be taking the engine out tommorow and i will do some pictures of the housing

[wfo guy]

I think this is your bellhousing: https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/bellhousing/parts/RM-8074
I'm told that the block pattern is about the same as the ls small blocks except the length of the crank flange is different. Is there a chance you need either a 360 la series engine starter or a 5.7? The instruction sheet attached to that page is lacking detail.

[wfo guy]

I found this. Wonder if it is any help?
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Boony405hp/media/P1010166.jpg.html

[wfo guy]

I found this:
Quicktime Bellhousing for:

Big Block to Viper T56 is #RM-8073
Big Block to Chevy LS1 T56 is #RM-6077
5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 to Viper T56 is # RM-8077
5.7 / 6.1 / 6.4 to Chevy LS1 T56 is # RM-8078
Smallblock to Viper T56 is # RM-8074
Smallblock to Chevy T56 is # RM-6076

More info...

Small Block Mopar (LA) and 3G HEMI is Quick Time P/N RM8074. The bell has a 6.697” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth) Uses the standard 2-Bolt starter from Mopar. 130 tooth fly wheel must be used.

Big Block Mopar (B & RB) is Quick Time P/N RM8073. The bell has a 6.697” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth) Uses the standard 2-Bolt starter from Mopar. 130 tooth fly wheel must be used.

3G HEMI ONLY – 08/09 Challengers - Quick Time P/N 8077. The bell has a 7.300” bell depth (add .125 for the block plate for total depth. Use stock 3G HEMI starter that is located on the passenger side of the vehicle. Must use the original flywheel and clutch assembly (65 #’s in weight – all cast iron). This bell housing is NOT recommended for the retrofitting into older muscle cars. Current year use only
This came from this thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/t-56-transmission-install-thread.154280/

[Josh@Ridetech]

This is going to be sweet! Good work on all of the fabbing.

[Eurostang]

Might be worth using the Qa1 extended length ball joints(1 inch) to allow for a better angle on your upper A-Arm and allowing for the top of the tire to toe in that out. Did this with my Spindles in the top position. Makes quite a difference. Parallel arms are not so great with the shortness of the upper arm.

Great build. Ill PM when I fly over next! I haul parts back and forth all the time. Friends/Family in Lincolnshire!

[Waynec]

thanks for all the info.ill look into it all next week when I have a bit more time.

eurostang.thanks for the heads up on the ball joints.had a look on the qa site and they do them in different lengths.i didn't know that was an option.

some more of the build

cut the old floor pan out

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and made some smooth covers for the inner seal area

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also did a small mod on the bench seat

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[Waynec]

car had had a smash at some point.this is the rear.doesnt look to bad but most of the boot floor had creased up.this is also the mounting point for the rear bumper.changed this over so the bumper bolts to the chassis now

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rear exhaust hangers

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and how it all goes together

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[Waynec]

tinwork for the rear

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[Waynec]

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[knuckleworks]

awesome stuff,can you post a pic of your beadroller?? mine could never take that deepth into the metal
//Janne

[Waynec]

hi.im using a mittler bros bead roller.the beads themselves are not that deep.try not to do them to deep,as it keeps the distortion down on the panels

[knuckleworks]

ok thanx
my bad for explaining bad i meant how far in on the metal you reached,mine isn't that wide in the jaws so to speak :)

[Waynec]

It has a 3 foot throat. What you can do is get as far as you can until the metal hits the frame.then flip over the dies and beed from the other side.
That doubles the capacity you can do

[knuckleworks]

yeah i done that,but mine is juston foot deep,i need to make a new frame and resuse the axels on it,
cheers :)

[Motorcitydak]

If you are still having starter issues, I was having the same issues. You just need one from a chrysler 300 or challenger. Should be able to find one locally so you can try it and return it if needed. I had an issue tho with it because I have a Mopar aluminum flywheel that has the ring gear further away I guess than the stock application. I ended up removing the gear from the starter, flipped it around and welded it back on further away, engages nicely now and I didn't have to use that stock heavy flywheel

[Martin71RS]

very nice fabrication work Wayne! can't wait to see more.