Lexus IS620 - LS3, T56 - from Australia

[bahaimus]

This is a bit of a copy and paste of some posts I’ve made about this on another forum. I am a serial project non-completer. Hence I had sold off everything from my last project and vowed to just buy a car that I could just drive and enjoy. The irony of the first post will quickly become apparent….

Apologies for the profanity and the use of local names and locations :)

An IS200 is just like an IS300 only with a **** 2L 6cyl engine
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Getting out of the project game, I needed a nice set of wheels. I am a car guy afterall. Was thinking of trying to find an nice stock IS200 then add wheels/tyres, coilovers and exhaust and enjoy. I knew it'd be slow - I test drove one when they first came out.

Starting scouring the ads to find something worth looking at. Then this popped up on Facebook in Gympie. Messaged back and forth. Guy was coming to Brisbane yesterday and he bought it with him. Shifty and I went and had a look. I called him up a bit later on and met up again and struck a deal for $9k. Picked it up from Gympie and drove it back this evening.

Has all the bits I was looking for and some more besides. Pics tell the story.

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[IMG]http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn98/bahaimus/1602008_10203443934958367_1446005906_o.jpg[/IMG (http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn98/bahaimus/1602008_10203443934958367_1446005906_o.jpg%5b/IMG)]

Other people have spent all the money on it.

Started out as a base spec IS200. Now it has:
- Freshened up 1GFE engine
- T28 on a modded 1JZ tubular manifold with front mount
- Greddy E-manage Ulitmate piggyback on with standard ECU
- Seats retrimmed in leather
- IS300 LSD diff (larger than IS200)
- Single mass flywheel
- Tein coilovers
- 18" Lenso something or others
- a medium loud exhaust
- Some stereo ****

Makes 170rwhp on 6psi. So power is adequate and more importantly, pretty safe for the stock engine. A stock one would have been challenging after driving this.

I drove 2 hours back from Gympie (with a couple of show stops on the way), showed the wife, then got back in and went out driving again.

Needs some bits tidying up. Nice discreet done in a weekend jobs that cost **** all money.

I have rediscovered the joy of having a nice car to just jump in and drive.

I. JUST. ****ING. LOVE. THIS. CAR.

:D

[bahaimus]

A few months passed and then all of a sudden………….

Whoops, I slipped and turned this into a proper upgrade conversion.

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I wasn't going to post about this till it was done, but I pretty much have everything ordered to finish it over Xmas so low likelihood of project creep due to undue influences from you ****s.

And I was too ****ing excited!

Turns out adapting a T56 to a 1UZ was just a pain in the arse so I bought a T56 with an LS3 attached instead.

/scope creep

[bahaimus]

Ok, so where is this actually at?

I bought an LS3, TR6060 (actually it is a T56, I checked the build info with Holden, missed out on a TR6060 by two months - meh, whatever), ECU and loom package from a 2008 VE Clubsport R8 with 46,000kms from Dean at Salvage Auto Sales at Nerang. I was able to view the shell the engine came from, and the place seemed very legit, so no reason to doubt authenticity. great guy, would highly recommend.

I had to buy a front sump from a VT-VZ LS1 as the VE engine is rear sump. That is ordered and on it's way. Once I get it, it will still have to be notched for further clearance of the crossmember and I have RZ lined up for that job.

I have purchased an off the shelf LS into IS engine and gearbox mounting kit from Dedicated Motorsports in the US which is already in my garage.

The loom and ECU have been posted off this week to Dale's mate Justin at Ultimate Conversion Wiring in Sydney to be setup as a standalone harness. He'll send it back to me with a handful of wires to connect up to the car and the security removed from the ECU. Dale will also be furnishing the ECU with a mafless tune to liberate a few more ponies above and beyond the 317kw rating of the engine in factory form.

Fuel system will consist of an aftermarket billet dual fuel pump hanger to fit in the factory spot. This allows easy mounting of a single Walbro GSS342 255lph hour pump and is already plumbed for a return line so I can run a larger external regulator. I will be using a combined filter/regulator assembly from a 99-04 Corvette. The hanger allows me to upgrade to a dual pump setup down the track if I want to.

Tailshaft and shifter are still to be worked out once I get the engine trial mounted.

I'm hoping the HSV headers on the engine will fit well enough to be able to be used, maybe with a bit of cutting and shutting.

Larger clutch master kit has arrived and an adapter to suit has been ordered as well.

These cars a well known for axle tramp issues. So I've purchased a set of urethane diff mount bushes. This'll probably be the only urethane in the car, I'm getting old now. While speaking of diffs, when I bought this car I was told it had an IS300 diff already which is a bit larger and the same as that used in later model Chasers, so plenty strong enough. The car is too low to get under and check and it hadn't been on my mind until recently. On the weekend I finally jacked it up and checked. The IS300/Chaser diff has 6 bolt output flange and the IS200 diff is four bolt. To my dismay I could only count four. So a diff change needs to be budgeted for as well.

With the extra go, it probably needs to stop. So I bought a pair of Mk4 4 pot Supra front calipers which arrived yesterday. These will be installed with new braided lines and new rotors. Rear brakes will remain factory with maybe a set of new rotors.

And to make it turn I have a set of BC coilovers which a great group of PF and no PF ****s bought me for my 40th mid this year. These are equipped with rubber top mounts rather than pillowballs. IS runs a double wishbone suspension so no need for pillowballs and strut top camber adjustment.

At this stage I am planning to remove the IS engine on the last weekend in November. My goal is to have it all out and hopefully have the LS3 sitting in the bay by that Sunday afternoon so i can start looking at the shifter and tailshaft stuff before xmas.

I want to be able to have the car booked in to have the exhaust done as soon as the exhaust shop opens after new year. I'm planning to have a chat to Scott at Cleveland Exhaust to see if he is keen.

Ultimate goal is to have it back on the road by the end of school holidays at the end of January. May not be fully sorted, but should be properly driveable.

I'm certain I've got the recipe right here and have all the ingredients. This is a known conversion so I'm not blazing any new trails. And I've got some known OCD project finishers in my corner and lots of offers of help.

More than that, I need desperately need a car project win. A string of failures has been very demoralising. I've been chasing this quick car dream since I bought my first car. I can't fail again and with this combo and the help I have, I don't think I can :)

And breathe.............

[bahaimus]

Just keeping things moving here with some small jobs.

Wanted to fit a remote bleeder to the clutch slave. Once it is in the tunnel, access to the factory bleeder would be pretty hard. Thought I might as well replace the slave at the same time - so many stories of guys butting **** back together and having the slave leaking! So i split the gearbox and engine yesterday. New alloy concentric slave with billet piston is a different height though, so a spacer is required before reassembly.

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I spent a bit of time stripping the brand new sump assembly apart so I could get it ready to be cut and shut.

IS200s have a common failure in the bonnet prop mechanism. I ordered a nice retrofit gas strut arrangement from FIGS Engineering in the US. Much nicer now.

Finally prepared a bit of badge engineering to suit once the conversion is completed.

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Finding a Lexus badge with a "6" in it is pretty hard, but I found one cheap here in Australia from a Lexus dealer on eBay for an LS600HL. But the numbers in the hybrid model badges are chrome with a blue stripe along the middle. So in order to get a matching "2" I had to buy a badge for a CT200H, again, fortunately found from Toyota dealer on eBay! It's the small touches that count LOL.

[bahaimus]

Another little important bit arrived today. In order for the A/C to work, the factory IS200 ECU has to remain in place and needs to see a 36-2 signal so it thinks the engine is running. LS3 has a 58 tooth wheel so tapping into that wouldn't work.

Ray Hall sells this little signal generator that outputs a 2200rpm 36-2 signal to the ECU making for happy days. Ray was one of the very early guys to put a 2JZGTE into an IS200 and had the electronics side of it well sussed. He still has the car.

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The other option might have been to adapt a trigger wheel to a pulley on the engine with another sensor but for $100 I think this solution will do nicely.

[bahaimus]

This nifty little thing arrived today. It is a combined filter and pressure regulator that was OEM on 99-04 Corvette. Perfect setup for an LS conversion. Mounted at the back of the car, just a short return line and a few Speedflow adapters.

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Now if only my pump hanger would be made and shipped out the fuel system stuff would be all ready to go.

[bahaimus]

So RZ just sent me some pictures of having waved his magic TIG wand over my sump for a bit of extra clearance.

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Looks awesome, thanks Pete!

[bahaimus]

And for the sake of completeness, here is the IS300 diff that I drove a 1600km round trip to collect. Solo road trip was awesome.

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Six bolt output flange of the larger diff. These bolts are proving to be a bit of a **** to loosen so the thing is travelling around in the back of the Passat as above

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And the build plate from the donor car. The B04B axle indicates 3.9:1 ratio and LSD. Standard for all Aus delivered IS300s from what I can tell.

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I've got some new urethane bushes to install with this. Apparently they tramp like a ******* but stiffer or solid bushes seems to really help. I've just gone with the stiffer option.

[bahaimus]

So on Friday last week I got made redundant from my job. Got a reasonable payout and its a crap time of year to be looking for a job so I started getting ready for the conversion work. Had to shuffle things around in the garage to get a bit more room. Thought I'd let the car and the engine get a little more acquainted.

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Bought some more bits as well.

[bahaimus]

Alright, this began in earnest. Just got back from getting my spare key. Ouch to that. At least the Lexus service dept took pity on me and didn't charge me for the coding!

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This is where your journey ends you 1GFE turd. Who knows how many engines this car has been through in its time of being turboed, but it kept me entertained for 9 months till the project bug took over again.

Oh I should mention, I conveniently took a deposit on this turbo engine setup last night! Should be getting picked up in Sunday afternoon all being well!

Been a busy first week of unemployment organising stuff and buying more stuff. More photos to come, but for now, I made my first speedflow hose of the project. Was a right ***** to make being so short and is an expensive concoction of adapters not mention the cost of the billet reservoir they connect to! Do it once, do it right...and maybe just a sprinkle of gold plating.....

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[bahaimus]

Tell your story walking

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Not looking forward to the wiring job much!

[bahaimus]

Got some more work done on this the last couple of days.

Degreased and scrubbed down the engine bay area. Bought a bunch of little things.

Expanded the holes in the bell housing (way too much) to accommodate the spacer behind the so centric slave. Then mounted the remote bleeder line and made the pressure line.

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Swapped the sump, pickup and windage tray over to the modified front pan versions while the engine was swinging off the crane. Good times.

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And finally managed to arse muscling the gearbox back on by myself. Not sure how I managed to get it all lines up to slide straight in, but I did!

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Tomorrow going to start making the power steering lines to mount to the rack end at least. And I might get the engine mounted.

Have run into an interference problem between the dipstick tube and the a/c compressor bracket. Not sure what combo of bits I need to resolve that. I believe I have purchased a VT-VZ dipstick and tube. Maybe need a matching bracket, but not sure if I need a matching compressor as well instead of the VE unit?

[bahaimus]

More work today. Sorted the interference issue from yesterday with some judicious cutting and grinding of the compressor bracket.

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Thought while it was apart I'd slip to Repco and grab a couple of new belts.

Wanted to start making the power steering hoses but one of the adapter fittings was wrong. So moved on to removing the accelerator pedal as I need to install a GM pedal for the DBW of the engine. Also removed the old clutch master and hardliners. Have to make an adapter plate for the new Tilton master.

More work scheduled tomorrow and Tuesday.

[bahaimus]

****, stupid couple of days just trying to find bits for adapters and whatnot. Barely spun a tool.

However the arrival of this brightened my day. Looks like it will actually work quite well so far though I won't know for sure till the box is in. Looks swxy though and fits straight up through the existing hole in the tunnel. Taking a bit of inspiration from yojimbo, it is from MGW in the US to suit a 2010+ Camaro SS.

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[bahaimus]

So random updates from the past few days with some dodgy photos.

The new DBW GM accelerator pedal has an alloy plate with rubber strips. My car being the base model only came with normal rubber pads on the clutch and brake pedals. I went to a wrecker that had a couple of IS200s in the hope of nagging a pedal box from a sport luxury version so I could have a consistent appearance ( it's the little things remember), but they were both gone and the wrecker was a typical useless **** anyway. So I came home and jumped on eBay in the vain hope of finding something to suit. Fluke find was some brand new genuine Toyota pedal pads for an Altezza for about $40 each. Quantity: 2, BUY NOW. Much cheaper than a second hand worn set.

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Next I had to make an adapter for the new clutch master. Spent most of the morning yesterday making this at a mates place. The countersunk bolts are screwed through the adapter and secured with permanent Loctite.

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Took it home, offered it up to the firewall only to discover the old master sat in a pressed recess in the firewall and this didn't come close to fitting. Note to self, dont rush the design phase. Out to the bolt shop to buy longer bolts while I quietly raged about having to make an extra spacer. Then back home, roughly cut out the spacer then back to my mates place to dress it up on his mill.

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It still didn't quite fit in the recess so I had to grind a couple of little reliefs:

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Goes together like this:

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Of course, now that is all made, I'm extremely worried about clearance to the engine with the extra spacing as the master sits pretty much right behind the drivers side head.......

I wanted to make a Speedflow hose to go from the hardline in the car to the fuel rail. The fitting on the hardline necessitated a female M14 x 1.5 inverted flare to AN -6 adapter. It is quite a common fitting used on fuel lines in Japanese cars, but do you think anyone makes such a thing? Speedflow don't. Pirtek laughed at me. More late night internetting found a custom adapter out of the US with a reasonable express courier shipping option. So I ordered two and they arrived in less than a week.

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The whole time I'd been working in and around the engine bay, I'd never been planning to do anything about power steering cooling. Despite that fact that the rudimentary Lexus cooler was staring me in the face the whole time. Thought I better do something about it and since I was making Speedflow power steering hoses, I grabbed an oil cooler and started plumbing. Roughly mounted where I want it so I can at least make the hoses. Will get them properly mounted while exhaust is being made.

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And finally, started making some of the hoses. Need to mount engine so they can be finished.

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Oh, and the engine is still not mounted. But should be soon! Anyone in Brisbane want to come around this weekend and give me a hand to do that???

[bahaimus]

IS620. With a few surmountable issues.

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Thanks for your help today Nick and Damo!

[bahaimus]

Update.

Got this back on the ground on Sunday afternoon. Yesterday morning a friendly Dave came over to load it onto his trailer and tow it down to Rz's cave of magic.

Big thanks to Dave for offering and delivering. Big thanks to Leigh as well and came for a sticky beak and did some heavy pushing on the car!

Pete is going to help sort out the clearance issues, mount the shifter, mount the power steering and engine oil coolers and finally after sone discussions he is going to make a full custom exhaust.

Plan is 1.75" long 4>1 headers into a twin 2.5" with a muffler and tailpipe on each side.

I'd been talking to a couple of people about the exhaust but delays in the supply of other bits meant I needed to bring it forward from the new year in order to keep up momentum so Pete drew the short straw LOL.

Leigh and I left about 1pm to head back to Brissie and let Pete start working on the jobs he had for others as well.

Sitting down later in the evening introducing the kids to Star Wars, I get a message from Leigh that he is back down there unbuilding my car for me! I'll let him take over the evening's story from here...


After throwing around a few ideas with Peter & Clayto, we decided the next step was to take some measurements and drop the whole guts out of the car for better access as it would be coming in and out half a dozen times. This was first going to happen today, but it turned out I was going to be busy so as I know my way around the shed I headed back down not long after we got back to Brisbane.

A rather surprised Rz found me tinkering on the car after about an hour & joined me to talk **** for a while. Plotted out a few things, decided what was easy, what was hard and how best to waste Clayton's wife's money (because Clayton himself has probably run out). A lot of things were nearly perfect but just that tiny little bit too close for comfort, a la the sump that fit with Clayton's measurements but didn't leave a lot of breathing room.

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I started by hoisting the car up, cracking all the critical bolts, removing the wheels & removing any little bits and pieces that were going to be in the way. Rz did some brow-wiping and muttering on the exhaust side of things.

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Before we actually removed the engine there was a lot of discussion on alternatives & options, and as you can see Rz was on the ball having already grabbed some random exhaust parts for trial fitting.

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Once we had our heads around it we had to do a fair amount of rearranging, as there wasn't a lot of room in the shed. In particular the day involved moving a camper trailer, motorbike, some ford V8 thing, a Cortina shell, a 265 engine for a VG Valiant, really pretty much one of everything.

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The net result was a better understanding of what needed doing & the motor/box on a hydraulic stand ready to go in/out as required. Let me just say I'm glad Rz is responsible for the design & welding of the pipes, as he explained it it all made sense but there's no way I'd have thought it would work the way he planned.

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[bahaimus]

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Just saw this pic on Facebook. My completed engine loom from Dale's mate Justin at Ultimate Conversion Wiring. ECU has had security removed and a mafless tune flashed to match some of the breathing mods I will have.

That's the GM loom though, not the Lexus one. I have the Lexus one out to do myself.

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[bahaimus]

Everyone loves a little bit of flange

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Some assembly required.....

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[bahaimus]

So, what exactly has been happening here?

I don't have photos of all the details but I'll tell the story. I've been down to Pete's a few times over the last couple of weeks. The engine has been in and out a couple (or more) times addressing the clearance issues. Thank goodness for the hoist and hydraulic engine trolley. In and out from underneath is so much easier! Leigh posted a photo of the sump to crossmember tightness (not touching, but very close). At the top of the engine there were a couple of issues:

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The bottom heater pipe was touching the rocker cover. The rearmost coilpack was preventing the clutch master from being fitted.

This was addressed in a couple of ways. The mounts were slotted to allow the whole engine and gearbox assembly to move forwards slightly. Only about 10mm, so the engine is still sitting way back which is good. The heater pipes were nice enough to be supplied with two separate beads rolled on them, so about 15-20mm was liberated from them leaving the rear bead still intact for good bite and seal once the hoses are installed.

I've also bought some aftermarket coil brackets to relocate the packs somewhere. Not sure where yet. This means I'll need custom length plug leads as well and maybe a loom extender. *sigh*

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Anyway, plenty of room in the engine bay now:

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The final clearance issue that still needs a little more work is the gearbox contacting the top of the tunnel. Because I'm using the later T56 with remote shifter arrangement, there is a small cover on the top of the box that sticks up more than the older style which the mounting kit I bought was designed for. A bit of beating with a hammer and maybe an ever so slight spacing down of the gearbox crossmember will sort that.

Bolting up the gearbox crossmember with the gearbox touching the floor highlighted a lack of strength in the kit crossmember. So Pete added a gusset to the rear and will also add one to the front.

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The engine mount brackets are also going to cop a bit of extra gusseting.

With the fore/aft positioning sorted, Pete was able to cut down the shifter mounting arms.

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The shifter now comes up perfectly through the factory hole in the tunnel and appears at this point to require no cutting which I'm very happy with as I can reuse the factory Lexus rubber boot to seal the hole up again. The rear support mount for the shifter goes bolts through the top of the tunnel and hopefully it'll also fit without cutting.

I visited again today and when I arrived, Pete was in the process of making the merge collectors. Why buy them when you can make them LOL!

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The next few days should be fun for him as he dives fully into the header fabrication!

[bahaimus]

Meanwhile, back at Casa del Bahaimus I've been doing a few of the cosmetic jobs I wanted to address. I wanted to paint the wheels a dark colour. I was originally planning gloss black but eventually settled on Metallic Charcoal. I don't have any spray equipment, but I still wanted to have a go at it myself. And I know a number of people that have used the White Knight pressure packs from Bunnings with good results so I figured why not!

Had the tyres stripped from the wheels and gave them a good clean with a number of different products. Orange Spray to remove the last of the PlastiDip residue. Bowdens Own Wheely Clean to get all the brake dust. Selleys BBQ Cleaner for any greasy ****. Lots of pressure washing. A strong mix of CT18 Truck Wash.

The outer surfaces of the wheels are painted so a scuff up with some 600 grit wet and dry paper. And I addressed a little bit of curb rash with a paint stripping wheel on an angle grinder of all things!

A final wash, drying over night and then a wipe down with wax and grease remover. Then onto painting. A couple of coats inside and out with Etch Primer.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150104_171812-1.jpg

Then three coats of colour on the inside:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150105_143524-1.jpg

Then four coats of colour on the outside:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150106_161417-1.jpg

Followed by a coat of clear:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150106_161433-1.jpg

I did a second coat of clear after this photo. I think they came up really good.

In between painting, I've been looking at other jobs. I burnt out the old pinion mount bushes from the diff with one of those little portable propane torches. Good times.

I've been cleaning up the front Supra calipers and the rear Lexus caliper ready for paint. They'll go back on with new rotors front and rear as well. Should be copping paint by this weekend. I'm sure you won't be disappointed with the colour I've chose for these.....

While I was down at Pete's I pulled the steering wheel off the car and dropped it and the gearshift boot at Annvid Auto Upholsterers in Capalaba for retrimming. 15 years and 300,000kms have not been kind to the leather on the wheel.

That's pretty much everything up to date!

[bahaimus]

Couple of other photos of the wheels trying to capture the gloss.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150106_174148nopm-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150106_174435nopm-1.jpg

I'm nervous about getting the tyres mounted again!

[bahaimus]

Ticking off a few more jobs.

I bought a pair of second hand Supra calipers for the front of this. Rears will remain standard Lexus. The calipers were pretty shoddy appearance wise having previously been painted red and that was flaking off. So A bit of a tart up was in order. I gave them a hit with some paint stripper and the pressure washer and finally a clean up with a wire wheel. I've previously used G2 caliper paint out of the US which is an epoxy style with good results. So yesterday I sat down ready to give them a lick and the painting gods were not on my side. This paint is designed to be brushed on and is self leveling so the brush marks tend to flow out. I probably chose the wrong day as it was humid as **** and the paint just started to cure too quickly leaving the brush marks visible. I persisted for awhile before I cracked the ****s and threw the rest of the can in the bin. I didn't get and pics, but it was ****.

Rather than sulk for too long, I cracked out the paint stripper again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150110_153900-1.jpg

A couple of goes of that, some more pressure blasting and a bit more wire wheeling saw them almost ready to go again. Five hours of painting and stripping to end up back where the day started. *sigh*

Rounded out the day with a trip to Autobarn to pick up some VHT primer, caliper paint and clear coat. Spray this time!

This morning, I got back into it. Cleaned the calipers again and hung them up ready for painting. 1.5 hours from priming to final clear coat. So much easier and I'm happy with the result.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150111_154459-1.jpg

The previous owner was a young fella and seems he wanted to join the cool group with horns that have a red cage on them that can be seen behind the grill.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150110_153910-1.jpg

I'm not cool, so they copped the White Knight Metallic Charcoal treatment as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150111_140530-1.jpg

I had the stubborn half shaft bolts removed from the IS300 diff by a mate. One of them was stripped and had to have the head cutoff. I tried to find replacements at quite a few bolt shops with no luck. I ended up calling Lexus and they only wanted $3.20 each, so a full set of those were had. I wanted to get the diff ready to take down to Pete's to put back in the car so he can see the clearance when it comes to making the rear part of the exhaust. I drained the oil out while it was sitting on the bench rather than having to try and suction it out once it is back in the car. I then installed the new poly pinion bushes to replace the rubber jobbies I burnt out earlier last week.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150111_140547-1.jpg

For interest sake, here is a side by side of the IS200 (bottom) vs IS300 (top) diffs.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150111_144233-1.jpg

I'll head back down the coast tomorrow to install this. I'll have to change rear diff mount bushes in the subframe as well. That should be fun.

[bahaimus]

More jobs today. Went down to Pete's to install the diff.

First job is to remove the bushes in the rear subframe that mount the rear of the diff.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150112_113211-1.jpg

Kind of a ****y job. I drilled some holes in the rubber (the bush on the left was fluid filled - that was a pleasant surprise). Then went hard at it cutting all the way around the rubber with a sabre saw to release the inner metal part of the bush. Then a bit of die grinding on the outer metal sleeve followed by belting the **** out of it with a cold chisel to finally release it.

By comparison, the replacement poly bushes were able to partially pushed in by hand. A bit of slide hammer action got them pretty much in the right location.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150112_130011-1.jpg

Pete has a nifty little homemade gearbox lifting device made from an old Hills Hoist. Made lifting and positioning the diff a breeze. All in and buttoned up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150112_141402-1.jpg

Finally, Pete is making progress on the headers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150112_141451-1.jpg

He marked out all of the extremities of the engine bay and made a bracket to hold the steering shaft in place so that he could fab them on the trolley. Will of course be trial fitted before final welding. The rearward positioning of the engine with the mounts I'm using as well as the fact that the steering and starter motor are on the same side of the engine mean there is **** all space to work with. Making each of the runners even approximately equal length just wasn't going to happen. Once he is done with the drivers side, Pete will make the passenger side a mirror image so at least the symmetry gods (and my OCD) will be happy.

[bahaimus]

Not that I've ever honoured any previous car related commitment, but I've told my wife this is a ten year car. And that means I will finish the conversion and keep the car ten years. Not that the conversion is going to run on for ten years……

Not much to report today. With the need to relocate the coil packs came the need to have custom length coil leads. No idea where they'll go yet, so no idea how long I'll need the leads to be. MSD make a number of universal kits to allow you to configure the lengths yourself and then terminate them. They even make one specifically for engines using LS coils (they have a different plug) but that kit only comes with red wires. That would not suit. So I ordered a regular kit universal kit with black wires.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150113_192244-1.jpg

Which meant I had to order the LS coil plugs separately. I ended up getting them from Summit, so a bit of a wait for them to arrive. I also ordered a proper MSD wire crimping tool.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/_571-1.jpg

The universal kit is supplied with a little mini crimping tool for use in a vice, but I wanted to make sure it was done properly. And as it turns out, my universal kit was missing the tool anyway! Foresight or karma. Not sure. Not sure if it is any particular benefit, but these crimpers offer interchangeable dies in the jaws so you can do regular wire crimps, deutsch and weatherpak.

While I was on the Summit site, I also ordered a new A/C compressor and compressor bracket to mount it a lot closer to the block. Here's why:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20141214_155903-1.jpg

There is no room to fit pipes onto the VE compressor. The earlier VT-VZ LS1 compressor seems to sit closer to the block I think, but they run a different offset on the pulleys. VE engines run a Corvette style pulley setup. So the bracket I ended up with is like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/143R_Closeup-1.jpg

It mounts the compressor in the factory position, very close to the block.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/143R-1.jpg

And makes use of readily available (and quite cheap) Sanden compressor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/vta04709vma_xl-1.jpg

This is a conventional on/off type waffle plate compressor which will not require the mucking around to properly run the variable displacement OEM compressor. Multiple benefits! :) More money :(

I should think about looking for a new job soon............

[bahaimus]

Headers:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150118_212110_resize-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150118_212139_resize-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Went down to pick up the headers with Nick and Leigh tagging along today. Arrived to find Bill and Pete conversing over the headers on the table. More conversing ensued before it was time to start putting the engine in and out another three times checking clearances again.

When we left, Pete had the front reo bar setup on the bench for making the brackets to mount the power steering and engine oil coolers.

By the time I got back to Brisbane, the coating shop was already shut for the day. :(

At home, the new AC compressor and bracket had arrived. Will head back down with them later this week to check how that will all work.

[bahaimus]

Another day down the coast today.

Upon arrival, Pete had finished mounting the oil coolers:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_101621-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_121223-1.jpg

He had also finalised the mounting of the shifter. Almost looks factory!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_101546-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_103410-1.jpg

I set about trying the the new A/C compressor and bracket arrangement.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_121126-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_121135-1.jpg

Much more room for pipes now, but the dipstick tube doesn't fit again. *sigh*

I also got stuck into the rear end of the car and replaced the rotors, mounted the lovely painted calipers and installed the BC coilovers that PF bought me for my birthday! I forgot to take the braided brake lines down with me. Another time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_132327-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_132339-1.jpg

We spent a bit of time running around picking up some different mufflers that will fit a bit better, looking at bends for the intake, working out I need to replace the thermo fans and the radiator header tank so an intake can actually fit and then mapping out a bit of a revised layout for the exhaust. Oh and looking at options for the tailshaft to work with this godforsaken output flange the late T56 is blessed with.

Oh, and no turning back from having a dual exhaust now.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_125812-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Today was a bit of a shopping day again. Few Speedflow fittings to revise the connection from the power steering reservoir to the pump because of this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20141214_155910-1.jpg

Had to pick up an air filter. Just a K&N tapered pod with a 4" flange. And some 4" aluminium donuts for making the intake pipe.

Also got a battery box so as to relocate the battery to the boot and free up a bit of room in the engine bay for stuff.

Finally, I wanted to sort out something to mate the tailshaft to the gearbox. Recapping, the three finger flange below is what I have to work with.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150122_101546-1.jpg

Normally in a Commodore, this has a rubber coupling between it and the tailshaft. In order to use the rubber coupling, you have to have the output flange and the centre bearing (in a two piece shaft) almost perfectly in alignment. My gearbox has an ever so slight tail down attitude meaning the flange was off vertical by about 2.5 degrees. Enough that rubber donut idea just wouldn't work.

Now the Lexus tailshaft, which I am intending to just modify, only has allowance for plunge in the front half of the shaft by using a slip yoke into the original gearbox. Late T56 you can't remove that flange and replace with a slip yoke. There are off the shelf adapters that will bolt to the output flange and have one side of a uni. But that still doesn't give me any plunge.

So, borrowing from a solution that a few places in the US offer (but wouldn't sell me just the parts, only a whole shaft *ugh*) I ended up with this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150123_120331-1.jpg

It is a complete tailshaft CV assembly from a late model Falcon including shaft stub that gets welded into the end of the tailshaft tube. I also bought a slice of aluminium round bar to make an adapter like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/driveshaftshopcvmountgenesiscoupe-1.jpg

In order to end up with a final solution like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_1262_zpse49fb183-1.jpg

Pete is happy to have a go at all of the tailshaft modification and just ship it off to the local guy to have rebalanced at the end.

[bahaimus]

More progress. I took a bunch of bits down to Pete this afternoon. Also took the bonnet (which conveniently kind of fits in the back of a Passat wagon with one of the rear windows down) so he can check intake clearances once he gets to that job.

He's made a start on the exhaust. Working from the rear, he had made up a frame to locate and support the mufflers while he worked on snaking the pipes past the diff and spare wheels well. Final tailpipes have been installed and the rear apron cutouts widened to suit. I reckon it looks fantastic!

Pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150125_171730-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150125_171719-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150125_171806-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150125_171800-1.jpg

Exhaust in progress. Still waiting to get headers back so that can be properly completed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/received_101526690984376832-1.jpg

Tailshaft work has also commenced.

[bahaimus]

Tailshaft adapter. Think I will sandwich this between the gearbox and the tailshaft way up in the transmission tunnel where no one can see it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150131_060446-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150130_164640-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150131_165335-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Update time.

Firstly, there was a small **** up with the tailshaft. I thought only the front section was going to require modification to suit the gearbox. I'd been operating under the assumption that the IS200 and IS300 diffs were the same length. Unfortunately, this was not the case. The IS300 diff was about 15mm longer. So rather than working any further on it, Pete dropped the whole lot at the local driveshaft shop and had the rear section remade with new Hilux uni joints and got them to weld the CV stub into the front shaft and then balance the whole lot. I picked it up this morning.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_103530-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_103535-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_103550-1.jpg

Then we installed it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_114351-1.jpg

We were able to install it because I had picked up the headers from ceramic coating on Tuesday morning and dropped them down to Pete and he had installed them on the engine and bolted the engine into the car for (hopefully) the final time. I haven't got any pics of the coated headers out of the car yet as it was a drop and run. But Pete took some so I'll post them up soon. Here's how they look in the car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_112448-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_112456-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_114339-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_114319-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_114331-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_121502-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

And a couple of pics of how the rest of the exhaust is progressing now that the headers are back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_114406-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_153521-1.jpg

I spent a bit of time this afternoon cutting the header tank section from the moulded plastic that also houses the factory thermos. Going to give this a go for the time being instead of buying new fans and having to make a shroud to suit. I didn't get a finished photo, but here is a progress photo.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_143410-1.jpg

If it provides enough clearance, I'll do some more cleaning up on it to make it look good.

And finally, a quick shot of the dipstick tube to a/c compressor clearance issue to be resolved.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150205_121534-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Coated headers:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150204_192020-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150204_192058-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150204_192205-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150204_192224-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150204_194234-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Ok, so I picked this up yesterday. The final job for Pete (for now) was to whip up an intake pipe. This'll do to get it running and I might revisit it down the track. ****ing 4" pipe takes up a lot of space.........

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150214_161955-1.jpg

A quick pic enroute. Thank goodness the rain held off. All of the windows are down in the car. Power windows. And no power.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/emp-1.jpg

And finally back at home. This day was not without its stress. In fact here was plenty of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/received_10152833450987663-1.jpeg

Big thanks to Pete for all the amazing work. Bill for letting the car take up his hoist for the last couple of months while Pete worked his magic. Leigh and Nick for coming down the coast with me a number of times and helping me work on bits while Pete was doing his thing. Sam (Guido) for the loan of the trailer to bring it home. Dad (macktheknife) for the use of his car to be the tow slut and Jon (psi999) for coming over to help unload the car and push it up the driveway.

Now the ball is firmly back in my court to finish it.

Here are a few more pics of the exhaust

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150212_001110-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150212_000821-1.jpg.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150212_000749-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150212_000639-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/20150213_114517-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

I've been thinking about the intake for this. In a Commodore, the radiator and condenser are set back behind the radiator support panel (and hence the bonnet catch mechanism).

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/otr20vtvzJPG-1.jpg

In my car, the radiator is set back, but the condenser is under the panel.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150209_123314-1.jpg

I thought I could maybe lay the radiator back a bit, but then the air is not flowing straight through it, and I'd still be sucking air through the intake from behind the condensor.

One idea could be to chop out the centre section of the rad support panel removing the bonnet catch mechanism and then maybe tie it back together with some strap or rod and then run a Commodore type OTR over the top and out the front and use some lockable catches

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/aerocatch_hood_pins-1.jpg

Or work with what I've got, maybe a bigger filter, and just box off that corner of the engine bay. I'm also looking around for potential OEM airboxes that could work.

This is an IS300 air box. Could be an option to reverse the flow of that box. Would need to work out where to take the fresh air from though.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/22059d1239773004joezintakeairboxis300vsf-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Been chipping away at some little jobs. Having water running across the floor of the garage the last few days has been something of a hindrance.

The power steering reservoir I bought was just held in place by sliding into a bracket and sitting on a little platform. But it could still flop around a bit. The little platform it sat on had a hole in it so I decided to pull the reservoir apart and drill and tap a hole to thread a bolt through from the inside, poke through the platform hole and be secured by a nut from the bottom. The bolt will be sealed by a copper washer and be loctited in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150217_100909-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150217_100902-1.jpg

The reservoir pieces are now off being anodised black for a more OEM type OCD Racing look.

The engine has a little 1/4" steam port coming out of the top for bleeding air out of the cooling system. This needed to be connected back in and most conversions just put it back into a radiator hose. Enter a radiator hose adapter. Which was handy because I also needed a place to put a Toyota water temp sensor to go to the Lexus temp gauge in the dash. An extra hole and some more tapping gives this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150220_113941-1.jpg

That'll obviously go in the top radiator hose. Speaking of radiator hoses, I've been scouring the shelves at Supercheap to come up with some suitable bends to cut up for my application. I pretty much just need 3 90degree bends in 35mm diameter. Turns out a couple of early V6 commo top hoses are the perfect diameter and give me the right bends I need once chopped up. I also have an array of different hoses to work out some good heater hoses connections. Will post pics once done.

I needed to find a place to mount the remote reservoir for the clutch master. There's really **** all places for it where it can be a bit higher than the master itself. Here seemed about the best and kind of OEM'ish place I could find.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150222_161509-1.jpg

Finally, before I started running the wiring and working on coil pack mounting, I decided to give the rocker covers some wrinkle love. They'll get a new set of seals and gaskets as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150222_144749-1.jpg

I also had to give my front calipers another paint touch up. While carting them around in the back of the car one day, they kind of rolled around and got all chipped up. FFS. So a bit of sanding and more paint. They don't look quite as good now up close, but I can't be ****ed with them anymore. I'll get them on the car ASAP to minimise any further risk of damage!!!

[bahaimus]

Rocker covers refitted. Makes a noticeable difference.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150223_151016-1.jpg

I wasn't happy with the Tilton remote fluid reservoir for the clutch that came with the master cylinder kit and I'd used the smaller of the two options! It was bulky and the barb was on the bottom. There was nowhere I could mount it that was high enough to not have a dip in the hose that ran to the master. So I picked up a GM item today which is a lot more compact and has the barb off the side. This places it above the barb on the master and I can still mount it in the same place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150223_151113-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150223_151201-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Had a little bit of time to do some spending this afternoon. So I got some aluminium to make a pedal mount.

Picture these bits assembled somehow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150224_170649-1.jpg

And it gets mounted on the lower two holes in this picture.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150224_170613-1.jpg

Struggling to picture it still? This is my vision for it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150224_170737-1.jpg

The stand offs will be shorter and I'll mill out the centre material in the plate a bit. Over engineered for throttle mashing enthusiasm.

[bahaimus]

So many competing space issues in this engine bay. Plan was to build on the existing intake and box the filter into that corner. Seems simple and logical.

Except the ECU needs to live in that corner as well due to the loom configuration.

And since I had to cut the overflow tank section of the thermo fan housing, I need to find somewhere to put a tank. And right now, it wants to try and live in the same corner. It could possibly live in the back passenger corner where the battery was but that has been earmarked as possible location of the coil packs. Of course, I could use the new brackets I bought and mount them back on the rocker covers in a more compact way, which would kind of be OEMish but I didn't want to do that.

Something is gonna have to give and it'll probably be the coil packs........that probably saves me having to buy some loom extensions and finding ways to run 4 long leads neatly across the back of the engine bay and along to the plugs.

Put overflow tank in back corner. Make a box over the air filter and mount the ECU to the top of the box.

/thinking out loud

[bahaimus]

Today I spent much of the day putting wheels on something that desperately needed them in my kind of limited garage space.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150228_171726-1.jpg

And then I jacked up and removed the wheels from something that doesn't need them just yet.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150228_171743-1.jpg

Needed to do this so I could wind the coilovers up a bit (especially the rears!) and swap the front brakes over to the Supra units. While I am underneath, I can look at what I'm going to do with fuel lines and respray the bit of that amazing exhaust that I scraped to **** getting it off the trailer...........

[bahaimus]

Another full day in the garage, but feel like I got **** all done. Too much **** floating around so I had more of a clean up to throw some stuff out and tidy some stuff up. A lot of the **** that is floating around has to eventually find its way into the car............

So, on to the car itself. I wanted to get the front brakes done today. I had a couple of split dust seals, so had ordered a new it from Elmhurst Toyota in the US. Such a fast turnaround and great pricing even with the current exchange rate. Would highly recommend. Doing the seals wasn't a lot of fun. Quite fiddly and time consuming. One trick Nick told me about was to make sure the pistons were pushed a fair way back in to make get the seals on easier. Of course, while squeezing one of the pistons back in I marked the paint quite badly on one of the calipers. Grrrr. Push on.

To mount the bigger Supra calipers and rotors means cutting the Lexus dust shield back a bit. I did all that and gave them a squirt of paint. No pics. Got them all mounted up eventually with new HEL braided hoses.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150301_141756-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150301_162901-1.jpg

The caliper that was marked was on the passenger side. Once it was mounted, I gave it a hit with the flapper disc in the angle grinder, a quick hit with some 600 grit to feather the edges then masked everything up and gave it a few more squirts of paint. Came up fine.

Braided hoses installed in the rear as well.

With garage time running out for the day, I started having a muck around with the heater hoses.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150301_160259-1.jpg

Looks like the combination of hoses and bends I have bought will work out quite nicely once cut to length. There's a couple of mounting holes on the fuel rail so I'll use a couple of P-Clips to support the hoses along there.

[bahaimus]

Only a small update. Got the power steering reservoir back from the anodiser. Much more subtle now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150303_134822-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Had a phone interview today which seemed to go pretty well, so I rewarded myself with a bit more garage time.

Since the loom and coil packs and heater hoses all want to occupy similar space on the drivers side, I thought it best to drape the GM loom over and start plugging stuff in. Then I started working on the drivers side coil pack mounting. **** is starting to get crowded and messy. Here's a couple of pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150306_152752-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150306_152759-1.jpg

While I was down at Nick's earlier this week, I was eyeballing his IS300 factory airbox. Looks like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/image2-1.jpg

Turns out the diameter of the little pipe that connects to the fresh air intake is 4" same as my intake pipe. So I snagged one off eBay and it is currently enroute. I'm going to have a look at options for using it perhaps in reverse flow with some ducting off the back of it to fresh air.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/Screenshot_20150303134937-1.png

[bahaimus]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150306_152752-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150306_152759-1.jpg


Not happy with this coil arrangement. I couldn't sleep last night knowing this was my solution. Needs revision.

I literally did wake up in the middle of the night last night and was unable to go back to sleep thinking about an alternative. So after taking the kids to their swimming lesson this morning, I checked that the aluminium shop was open (it was!) came home took a few measurements while doing some more imagineering and then headed off again. $12.98 for today's materials!

The coils are 90mm at their widest point. So I could go 100mm flat bar or 80mm. I opted for 2 350mm lengths of 80x6 flat bar. This meant the coils needed to be angled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_1037282-1.jpg

Artistic

I did some marking and drilled the holes for mounting to the rocker covers and then bolted both pieces together so I could make both brackets at the same time. They are not a mirror image installation though due to the mounting nubs on the rocker covers. So I actually end up with the coils angled towards the front on the drivers side and towards the rear on the passenger side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_1157273-1.jpg

Then I did some more marking, some more drilling, a bit of hole sawing and then some jig sawing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_1410523-1.jpg

Then some tapping.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_151743-1.jpg

Then a bunch of linishing and a small amount of trial fitting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_153044-1.jpg

Then a final bit of trial fitting.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_153354-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150307_153408-1.jpg

The job remaining is to give the surfaces of the brackets a good sand and then cut some spacers on a lathe to address this issue below. I bought some 16mm rod today as well.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/b83985e1c09a4b51a79ec7c1a990f235-1.jpg

So tell me that wasn't worth the five hours effort so far?

[bahaimus]

I didn't really get any progress pics, but this took ****ing ages. Way longer than I thought it would.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150308_143217-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150308_143245-1.jpg

I also gave the plates a touch up on a scotch brite wheel. Looks much nicer. But photos of that tomorrow.

While I was getting my sexy on on the lathe, I also made a start on some things for the pedal mount.

This was the first time I'd actually used a metal lathe to make something, even if it was just spacers.

[bahaimus]

Here's how the plates finished up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_102506-1.jpg

And here are the coils mounted. Passenger side facing the rear:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_161816-1.jpg

Drivers side facing the front:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_161752-1.jpg

Spacers spacing:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_161758-1.jpg

I ****ed around with the pedal mount some more.

At the moment I just have the plate sitting on top of the pieces of round bar and two 80mm long M6 counter sunk hi tensile bolts holding it all together. Some **** photos:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_122730-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_122715-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_123411-1.jpg

The positioning is perfect. But it is quite wobbly. I'm going to cut a bit of plate to put on the floor under the rod. And drill a couple more holes and put some nutserts in so I can have more bolts holding it. And finally, see if I can get it all tacked together with a tig to try and keep it all from flexing. There is flex in the assembly, but also in the sheetmetal. Unfortunately, I can't access the back of it with out some cutting of the bodywork so will have to see how the above works out.

Lastly, my IS300 airbox arrived today. It fits in the corner nicely and shouldn't be too hard to get it to line up with a bend off the throttle body.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_140618-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_140634-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_140639-1.jpg

I don't think it will work the way I had envisioned it. But the good news is that my pod actually fits inside it!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150309_140723-1.jpg

So with a bit of careful positioning and a bit of flexible ducting inside the box, I might be able to run with it. I'll cut the front face out of the box behind the headlight for the source of cooler air and maybe some from the bottom as well.

[bahaimus]

So in amongst a bunch of jobs done this week, I took a look at this airbox setup. Did some cutting and trimming and have arrived at something that looks like this:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150313_143107-1.jpg

And with the lid on:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150313_143121-1.jpg

Just needs a bit of flexible hose to connect the two bits of pipe together.

Local hose supplier had some of this stuff which I will use for the rest of the intake for now as well as inside the airbox.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150312_133530-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150312_133517-1.jpg

Just not quite an OEM enough looking solution. But will do to get it on the road now.

Other jobs done include:
- power steering pressure hose out of 200 series speedflow.
- couple more spacer machined for mounting loom and heater hoses in p clips
- heater hoses cut to length and joined
- vacuum line from engine to brake booster
- assorted nuts, bolts, washers and paints purchased
- started cleaning up the fan shroud some more and will give it a lick of plastic paint
- tried to finalise mounting of clutch master but ****ed up when cutting the pushrod to length. Totally forgot about the thickness of the spacer I had to make and cut it too short. Of course the Tilton distributor in Aud doesn't bring in the pushrods separately, even though Tilton in the US sell them that way. So I ended up ordering a cheap universal eBay master cylinder to pilfer the pushrod from. Fuxking Americans and there imperial thread bull****. This 5/16 UNF threaded pushrod is a *****
- looked at options to stabilise throttle pedal mount. Not as easy as thought. I remounted it anyway and it will do for now. While I can flex it with my hand, pushing on the pedal with normal throttle pressure shows it to be reasonably stable of until I can address it further.

And that's it for now.

[bahaimus]

Alright, been doing some stuff here.

I needed somewhere to mount the ECU on a flat surface. I decided to chop the back of the airbox out and put a piece of aluminium in there to mount the ECU on.

Test fit looks ok.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150328_144426-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150328_144438-1.jpg

Painted the aluminium and then sealed it up with some Sikaflex.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150403_120956-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150403_121002-1.jpg

A few rubber cotton reel type mounts:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150407_203539-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150407_203550-1.jpg

I need to do something with the routing of the loom I think.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150411_123655-1.jpg

Then I made my plugs leads using the MSD universal kit that I got. Feeding the lead through the LS3 coil boots was a right **** of a job.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150403_172226-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150411_123710-1.jpg

Got some adhesive backed EPDM foam strips to seal the gap between the fan shroud and the radiator. Want to make sure the rad is operating as effectively as possible.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150407_203500-1.jpg

Cut the factory rubber shift boots down to try and get the best seal I could around the new shifter.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150407_201922-1.jpg

Cut down some V6 Commodore radiator hoses to fit my application.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150411_123643-1.jpg

Final mounting of the airbox and connecting the through tube to the pod filter inside it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150411_123510-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150411_123639-1.jpg

Then connected it all up with a temp length of the hose you all love so much.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150411_124535-1.jpg

Have pulled the fuel pump hanger out of the tank and looking at upgrading the fuel pump to the Walbro 255 and looking at how I'll run the return system etc.

That's where it stands.

Looks like I am leaving the wiring till last. *sigh*

[bahaimus]

Where was I up to?

I worked on this last weekend but didn't really achieve much. Spent quite a bit of time trying to muck around with the fuel pump hanger since my fancy billet one has still not arrived. The factory thing is a finicky plastic assembly and I needed to upgrade the fuel pump to a Walbro 255 and also add the facility to have a an external return line coming back to it whilst maintaining the internal siphoning function to draw fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the pickup side.

Needed to crack on with work so Dad came down to stay for the weekend and help out.

So I went and purchased a few fittings and some hose.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150421_154334-1.jpg

Included in that pile of stuff is some 4x glue lined double layer heatshrink. I used that on all of those hose where it had to pass close to something that I didn't want to have abrasion issues with. I also used it to hold the rubber fuel lines from the fuel pump hanger down underneath the car together and give them a little extra protection as well. It was good ****.

No in depth pics, but this was the result for the fuel hanger after I had to redo the return loop because the first one hit the bottom of the tank too much.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150425_150530-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_101619-1.jpg

Special thanks to Nick for having his nerd travel kit handy and soldering the new connections for the fuel pump for me.

With that completed, we got on to working on running the fuel lines. Working from scratch to run the supply and return lines. Sorry, pics don't really convey the routing. But I had to snake these lines up over the top of the exhaust on the passenger side to the Corvette filter/regulator which is mounted near the gearbox.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170510-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170553-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170537-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170526-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170447-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170453-1.jpg

Now I just need to run the hose from the filter up to the fuel rail. But I need another fitting.

I also finished running the hoses for the power steering cooler.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170846-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170905-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170913-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170938-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_170946-1.jpg

Dad worked on fitting the adapter on the sump for the engine oil cooler and mounted the thermostat. I probably don't actually need an oil cooler, but I decided to run one to add a bit off oil capacity back in to the system since I had to cut a chunk out of the sump and just to add a bit of head room to the cooling capacity until I can ascertain of the current radiator and fans are up to the job.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_171018-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150426_171010-1.jpg

Not much to finish, but now I need to buy a couple of 120deg -8 200 series fittings. Ouch.

Revisitng Nick and his wiring prowess, he swung in to action to give me a hand with the Lexus loom side of things. During the week and donned his nerd hat and came up with a pretty comprehensive pinout diagram for the Lexus ECU and while he was there on Saturday, started unwrapping and stripping the loom of all of the excess wiring. He even took the loom home with him at the end of the day to keep working on it. I really hate wiring with a passion and that job was like a noose around my neck. Here's to you Nick!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/propeller_head_nerd_200x300-1.jpg

Many thanks to Nick and my old boy for all the help this weekend. Edging ever closer.

[bahaimus]

This thing is now fluids, a battery cable, some earth straps and fuel pump wiring away from being started (started, not drivable). Nick and Tim came around yesterday and spent a good few hours with wiring diagrams, soldering irons and heatshrink reconfiguring the smoke pathways to integrate the GM and Lexus looms. A few pics. Warning, some disassembly required...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_152501-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_152702-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_152709-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_163351-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_163401-1.jpg

While I spent time on the oil cooler hoses:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_160439-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_160444-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_160504-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150503_160514-1.jpg

I have obtained my submersible hose and some stainless cable ties, but didn't get a chance pull the pump hanger out and redo it yet.

[bahaimus]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfNX-vL5iYg
That was the genuine first start video. Had only had it cranking up to that point.

Would be nowhere without Nick risking divorce to spend the entire day here today. You're a ****ing legend mate. Thanks to Dad for being an extra set of hands this weekend and for good company
I was very worried. We had no means of knowing if it actually had proper oil pressure before starting it. We removed one of the oil cooler lines and backfilled it to try and prime it. Then I slackened of a couple of of the other fittings and kept cranking until oil wept out. We figured it was good to go then. A temporary battery connection solution was implemented to facilitate the starting:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150517_170529-1.jpg

Nick working on connecting the DBW throttle:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150517_115236-1.jpg

Fuel hanger redone yet again with submersible fuel hose and stainless cable tie:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150516_115254-1.jpg

And this is exactly why you need submersible hose. This had barely even been sitting in fuel and only for about two weeks:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150516_105744-1.jpg

A couple of shots with the wheels on:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150516_170310-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150516_170325-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150516_170337-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150516_170439-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Second start and risking a few revs........


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b27DgWYgloE&feature=youtu.be

[bahaimus]

Note to self:

If unsure, check parts diagrams before making and installing power steering hoses to make sure you are connecting the pressure side where it actually needs to go. Add a new job back on to the list.

Otherwise, this is pretty much done as far as wiring goes. Doesn't seem to be leaking any new fluids. Awaiting clutch bleeder setup before taking off the stands. Want to let it get up to temp and make sure cooling system is well bled. And awaiting coolant recovery tank to be delivered.

Another marathon day from Nick for which I am once again very grateful!

[bahaimus]

Swapped the powered steering hoses over at the rack today. Sometimes Speedflow is really awesome. Sometimes it is ****. Today it was ****. But got it done and doesn't seem to be leaking. Wheel turns better too....

Then I started it up and let it run for awhile. Had my bleeder funnel in the radiator to try and get a lot of the air out. Plenty of burping going on. Got up to temperature. The fans cycled on and off a couple of times triggered by one of the ecus (who knows which one!). Dash temp gauge stayed rock solid in the middle.

After it got warm, just idling, it all of a sudden developed a noticeable tapping noise from the top of the engine somewhere on the passenger side. That had not ever been apparent before. Not noticeable from under the car really. Will see what it is like tomorrow when cold and see if it is oil viscosity related as has been suggested in this thread.

The other kind of big issue is starting. It never starts first time. But always pretty much immediately second time. Probably need to get a fuel pressure gauge on to it and see what is happening there. Have a Walbro 255 controlled by the GM ecu and am using a Corvette filter/regulator so it should all be hunky dory.

[bahaimus]

Ok, there's clearly a number of issues to address. One of them is the starting problem. I managed to borrow a fuel pressure tester to connect to the schrader valve on the end of the factory fuel rail.

I'm using a brand new Corvette fuel pressure regulator which is meant to keep fuel pressure at 58psi. I have a brand new genuine Walbro 255 in the fuel pump hanger which has a one way valve in it.

Something is wrong:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbfeFqpnmMQ

There is no fuel leaking externally. So I figure either there is fuel is leaking somewhere in the pump hanger or I have an injector stuck open or the regulator is a dud.

I bought a cheapy oil pressure gauge on the way home. Will get that connected and check that oil pressure does in fact exist and where it is at. Then I will start pulling **** apart.

But it's too cold tonight.

[bahaimus]

For those playing at home I have identified the source of the tapping noise.

That is the noise of a plug lead arcing when it is not properly seated on the plug and has come loose during running....

facepalm.jpg

[bahaimus]

I think I have sorted the fuel pressure issue. Fundamental failure in understanding how the factory regulator worked. I had only blocked up the outlet of it. But once I pulled it all apart, I could still blow air through it. So I cleaned it all up, drilled out the spring and valve and sealed up every orifice with steel epoxy putty which is safe for fuel applications. I'll test it tomorrow night.

Clutch bleeder **** tested me, but I seem to have prevailed. Just in a really tight spot and everything was covered in brake fluid so hard to get everything tight enough to not leak anymore.

[bahaimus]

Yep, this **** is mobile!

Fuel pressure issue is sorted, runs so much ****ing better. Started better, revved better. We knocked over a bunch of tidying up jobs and there seemed to be no reason left not to take it for a drive. So we did. Not sure what the neighbours thought about us mildly tear arsing around after 9pm, but zero ****s given! A guy around the corner I met while I was working on it a few months back messaged me asking if that was my car that had just booted up the hill past his house LOL

So. Much. Torque.

I do have an issue with the power steering though. Feels very heavy and the pump is whiny. Fluid is circulating though. I wonder if I damaged something when I had the hoses on back to front on the first few starts. Problem for another day anyway.

Engine bay looks a lot more tidy now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/fee85a96f609b4542cdf2205fdc9cb7d-1.jpg

Here is the first official drive.


http://youtu.be/UGa5bYr9t-w

[bahaimus]

Still haven’t fixed the power steering on this.

I jacked the front of the car up and tried bleeding the system a bit more this morning. Back and forth with the engine off, then more with the engine on. No dice.

So I sucked the oil out of the reservoir and pulled it off to fill it with some mesh to try and stop any aerating of the fluid that might be going on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150621_153733-1.jpg

I then pulled the pump off and confirmed that the relief valve was moving freely. I pulled the valve out, it look alright. Put it back in and it plunges by hand no problem. Screw the fitting back in and the valve still seems to plunge freely. So I put the pump back on, reconnect all the fittings and throw a bit more fluid at it. Back to trying to bleed the system. Jack it up and back and forth with the engine off, then some more with the engine on. Back on the ground and still no cigar. What I did try was to see if it changes with revs and if I hold the revs at about 3k rpm, get a lot more assistance but the pump is really, really ****ing noisy when I do that.

Not sure what to try next. Thinking maybe see if I can source a new pump for not too much and if that doesn't work then pull the rack out.

In amongst all this I thought I'd give it a tub.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150621_115244-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

Ok, since I'm so far into this project, I just ordered a new factory GM reservoir and feed hose to the pump. I just need to measure my pulley diameter and I will order a remanufactured Ford CB pump converted to suit a GM like this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-Power-Steering-Pump-Conversion-VE-Comm-WM-Statesman-V8-8cl-FREE-FILTER-/261922950170?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3cfbd30c1a) which supposedly is a more robust unit than the GM one.

At least if it still ends up being the rack, it'll all be sorted and new and capable of whatever I want to throw at it.

Undoing billet and Speedflow goodness makes me feel a little ill though.........

[bahaimus]

Hopefully this helps to resolve some issues. In combination with some other bits.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150625_102332-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150625_102340-1.jpg

Included this magnetic filter as well:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150625_102427-1.jpg

[bahaimus]

So, Nick and I changed the pump, reservoir and the feed hose to the pump. Also changed the low pressure line and the high pressure connection to the rack.
The good news is, power assistance has returned to expected levels. Then this happened:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSgFJSECaKU

However, as the video indicates, the new pump is noisy as ****! It is ever so slightly bigger than the old one and just touches the Lexus ECU box which is probably contributing to the volume of noise. But, can drive with a bit more confidence now at least!

[bahaimus]

Took this out today with the family. Did about 150km cruising around Brisbane visiting people and places. No leaks, no fires, no problems of any note at all.

Got a mate to give it a blat while stood and watched (and listened) from the outside. Smiled some.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif

Pretty much only needs three gears. 2nd, 4th and 6th. Will happily pootle around at 900rpm in 6th at 60km/h. Just magic. Has ****loads of grip. Nail the throttle in 2nd and it just squats and goes with maybe the slightest of squirms. Very impressed. My mate with the ISF was pretty surprised at how fast and violent it is when you are hustling through the gears.

Needs a/c sorted quick smart and probably some wrapping of the exhaust. Gets a bit toasty down in the foot wells. Think I'd call it a success so far.

[bahaimus]

I drove this to work in the rain today to check what the wet weather manners were like.

Slick roads. 595-RSR tyres. 6.2L of manual engine. Sounds like the perfect recipe for shenanigans. I didn't spin the tyres once. Not even accidentally. Start in 2nd everywhere, even on hills. Just not a problem. Perfect road manners. Though driving with the windows mostly up really indicates the need to maybe add a couple of resonators to the exhaust, but that was always a possibility anyway and the pipes were made with allowance for that.

[bahaimus]

Just about to hit the dyno for a baseline run.

And then:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/07/IMG_20150701_180527-1.jpg

Video:


http://youtu.be/PEYO7FSy2Uw

Sorry for the ****ty phone vid, but you'll get the idea

[bahaimus]

Been driving this to work pretty much every day. Still great to drive in traffic.

Sorted out the steering wheel to rack alignment issue. Was simple, I'd way over thought it. Had a proper wheel alignment done yesterday. Put all of the interior back together.

Power steering pump is still noisy. Tried a treatment in it but that made no difference, nor was a I really expecting it too. I reckon for some reason I am getting air in the fluid still or some cavitation in the pump.

Would like to get it up on a hoist shortly and just do a bit of a spanner check on all of the driveline etc before I go nuts at driving events.

Loving it. :)

[bahaimus]

My wife drove this to her school today. Her year 12 students thought it was seriously awesome. And then she started it up...........

This happy tale was dampened by the fact some **** bumped into the back of me at a set of lights on the way home on Monday after an already ****ing **** day at work. Bumper popped back out, but there's some scuffs and the paint is all cracked on the corner where he got me.

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________

And that is the story complete up to today :D

[amoosenamedhank]

Wow really cool build. I really enjoy some of these 'not so typical' threads on here.

[Clutch93]

Very cool build! Lot's of detail in your thread. Sorry to hear about the back bumper, hopefully most of it will buff out. Good luck with the noisy ps pump, let us know how the first track day goes!

[bahaimus]

Thanks for the comments guys, I like to do things a bit different :)

Sometimes you go back and forth about whether to make a change. Like changing the wheels back to silver and the brake calipers to black. And then sometimes, on the first day she drives it, your wife helps make the decision for you.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150802_160646-1.jpg

And then when giving it a clean, the well known wheel cleaner you use stains your calipers and makes them more of an orange colour.

And just like that, the decisions become easy!

[bahaimus]

So a couple of things that are ****ting me. There is a lot of general gear noise from the box and the shift is a bit ****, especially 2nd > 3rd at high revs. I hadn't done an oil change before I put it in, so I did a bit of research and apparently this is meant to be the **** for a T56:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150806_091647-1.jpg

Not cheap by any stretch especially once you add in the flushing solution and the rare earth magnetic drain plug they recommend. So hopefully it does make a significant difference.

One of the side effects of doing a conversion on an IS200 is that the fuel gauge goes down in 1/4 tank increments rather than smoothly. This is because the ECU drives the fuel gauge and it takes the intank float as well as injector pulse width measurements as inputs to output a reading to the gauge. You can't really easily tap into the signal to bypass the ECU stuff either because that is part of the multiplex from the ECU to the dash. So I bought a cheapish Speedhut digital gauge to stick somewhere and just use the float as the input. Hopefully that works.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150806_091532-1.jpg

Finally, I was looking at a way to properly monitor the oil pressure and temperature. Decent gauges were starting to get spendy and then I'd have to find a good way to mount them. So I ended up going with of these:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/cspcontent-1.jpg

It is a Defi Advance ZD and came in a Club Sport kit which included sensors for oil pressure, oil temp and water temp. Given the problems I had with fuel pressure, I added a fuel pressure sensor as well. Like all Defi gear, it is programmable with warning levels etc. This thing can also show speed, revs, shift light and has some built in lap timing and stuff. The display unit is actually pretty small. TO try and be a bit discreet, I'm mounting it on top of the steering column where it pretty much doesn't block any of the existing dash gauges but is still right in the line of sight.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150806_101112-1.jpg

I just need to install all of the sensors and then get Nick back around for some more wiring duties!

[amoosenamedhank]

Did you do the anti venom mod on the T-56 yet?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?686622-Want-Smoother-Shifts-Try-This!&highlight=anti%20venom

[Centerforce]

This is an awesome build, well deserving of being a "10-year car." Looks and sounds great! Did Australia get the SportCross wagon? I've always thought those looked good and could probably do nicely with a proper engine and gearbox.

[bonecrrusher]

Mighty Car Mods might approve of this!

Swap looks awesome!

[68vert]

Great job on the car and the write up. Your mates Nick and Pete really did you right especially on the headers and pan. My wife and I just got back from Aus and was amazed to see how many V8 Holden and Hilux's with snorkels there. Hats off to ya mate!

[badbu68]

Love this build! Keep at it and post up more when you can.

[maleigh78]

Love the car. Turned out great. Good job.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Love the build!

[bahaimus]

Thanks for all the kind words guys, much appreciated.


Did you do the anti venom mod on the T-56 yet?

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?686622-Want-Smoother-Shifts-Try-This!&highlight=anti%20venom

I have not done that. The action of going from 2nd>3rd is fine and I'm using an MGW shifter which is strongly spring biased to the 3rd/4th plane. It is more of a synchro issue.


This is an awesome build, well deserving of being a "10-year car." Looks and sounds great! Did Australia get the SportCross wagon? I've always thought those looked good and could probably do nicely with a proper engine and gearbox.

Unfortunately we never got the Sportcross, otherwise this would have been one for sure! I have a strange love for most things wagon.


Great job on the car and the write up. Your mates Nick and Pete really did you right especially on the headers and pan. My wife and I just got back from Aus and was amazed to see how many V8 Holden and Hilux's with snorkels there. Hats off to ya mate!

Yeah, Nick and Pete were awesome, though I did pay healthily for the privilege of having Pete fab the exhaust LOL!

I took this to the strip last week. I managed a best of 13.02 @ 111mph. I was taking off in second and it really gave my clutch a hard time. I really have so much grip in this car. Launching at about 4000rpm in 2nd and it just started to slip the clutch. On the street, the scenario would just torch the tyres. Anyway, it is what it is and I won't be back to the strip until I upgrade the clutch.

[bahaimus]

Just a little night time vid made on the spur of the moment.


https://youtu.be/8k3GjWhFFso

[bahaimus]

And a quick vid from a tunnel


https://youtu.be/Qtq5WTgUNok

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Killer build

[El Tazo]

Absolutely wicked build!