Okay tiny brake line tutorial, who has one?! Looking for tips, tricks (6" lines)

[cactuss4]

As I've said over and over again i'm not very artistic and I think one has to be semi in order to create flowing brake lines. Right now however I'm just working on MC to prop valve so 6" at the most.

I have the flaring thing down, so far that seems to be okay (proper tools and various web tips). Bending I'm using a few things that provide decent clean bends, but still struggling. Now there may be nothing I can do but trial and error, but figured I would ask if there are tricks to this.

I already bent one where I felt it was right and then noticed well I can't flare the end and put an end on it, so had to straighten it again. Now I'm just massaging it because it feels like it wants to go but it's getting tugged taught by one of my angles


So any tricks you learned over the years, i would love to make squared off ones, but they all become kind of rounded ..

Also I'm not using steel lines, so it should be that much easier.

Thanks
Tory

[Apogee]

Depending on the bending and flaring tools you're using, you'll need to allow for enough tube to either fit the dies of the flaring tool or the dies of the bending tool. There are bending pliers that can allow you to make tighter radius bends, closer to fittings, or you can use other mandrels to help with bending, but in the end it comes down to practice and planning.

Is that copper/nickel brake tubing? That should help make things easier than steel or stainless steel...I'm thinking it must be since you said that you straightened a bend. I generally use a roller die bender on the easy to get to bends, and then I have a mandrel with various diameters to help with the others where I wrap the Ni-Copp line around it by hand.

In looking at the the short piece with two bends that you're trying to make, you can always extend the line a little further out from the MC to allow for room for both the flaring die and the bending tool, whatever it may be.

Tobin
KORE3

[Twentyover]

One thing most tubing design guys like me (HVAC in my case) do is to put a third, usually minor, bend between the two bends shown in your image. With only 2 bends, both bends need to be dead nuts or the fitting will be out of square and tough to start. A third bend in plane will 'unfold' or 'fold' and let the fitting start square.

[cactuss4]

Yep Copper, pretty easy to bend but bend well is another issue. I've got a bending tool but I think it sucks, or I just flat out don't know how to use it..

uugh lost my post.
Anyways just starting to practice a bit more using different objects (and my bender)..

So I replaced the front MC to prop this evening after a bit of playing around. I think it looks better, I'll tackle the rear one tomorrow as i'm getting a bit more comfortable but I can see this taking some time to sink in


Secondimage is this evening after redoing the front one, the first image is what it looked like before, not a ton of difference but for some reason to me the first looks better (shrug!!) at least it appears to line up better and the pipe is not at a weird angle.

The rear one I may do something similar to the front.. well feeling a bit better but have a long way to go.

Tory

[Peter Mc Mahon]

What about adding a coil [loop] ? I think that looks better in this situation and it allows a lot of wiggle room.

[cactuss4]

What about adding a coil [loop] ? I think that looks better in this situation and it allows a lot of wiggle room.

I thought about that actually and found a couple of videos on it. I was trying to determine if it was really worth it and how exactly i would to that with so little space to work with.

[dhutton]

That one bend looks a little tight in the pic. I am not sure I would leave that one unless it is just the photo angle.

Don

[cactuss4]

That one bend looks a little tight in the pic. I am not sure I would leave that one unless it is just the photo angle.

Don

Thanks for looking, I checked it, it's the picture only. It's picking up the black of the inner fender and making it look bad. It's the same circumference around that entire bend
Tory

[dhutton]

One useful trick is to mock up your lines with a piece of 1/8 rod or even coat hanger. Then you just copy what you have with the brake tubing.

Don

[David Pozzi]

I have a pair of vise grip pliers with tube bend dies welded into the jaws. Works great to bend in tight places. My main rule is to make the lines long if possible. As you found out, length is needed for the bender & the fittings need to be aligned perfectly straight to allow them to screw together. More length allows easier alignment without kinking the lines. Any line running from master cyl to chassis should have a couple of loops, or at least some length & two or more 90 degree bends.

[JustJohn]

I have a pair of vise grip pliers with tube bend dies welded into the jaws. Works great to bend in tight places. My main rule is to make the lines long if possible. As you found out, length is needed for the bender & the fittings need to be aligned perfectly straight to allow them to screw together. More length allows easier alignment without kinking the lines. Any line running from master cyl to chassis should have a couple of loops, or at least some length & two or more 90 degree bends.

Is this due to vibration/movement between the body and frame?

[benno505]

i use a bit of welding wire to make my lines up first then make it out of brake line so they are all good and the right length. that way i can use my straight piece of tube and put my 2 fittings on, then bend it after.

[67CamNKC]

I am also using the NiCopp line. I used a piece of 12ga electrical wire out of Romex as my pattern. The only problem I've found with the NiCopp is getting the soft copper to seal properly at a flared connection. For instance, Over the pumpkin of the rearend where both hard lines meet the hose. Not sure if I'm over tightening or not enough. The double flare looks great, just soft. Good luck with yours. On my lines on the very short runs, I went straight down out of the master then turned towards the back of the car for an inch then turned towards the proportioning valve. The extra bend made it easier to make and install.

[iadr]

Previous shop built my rear axle with a loop on top of the rear axle (I know WTF.. did they not have a flaring tool?). Car had a severe driveline vibration when first built, and I was young and stupid and it was my only car. A summer with lots of miles that way and the loop on top of the rear axle vibrated until it broke at the base where it curled up away from the rear axle housing. Single circuit brakes and I am very lucky to still be here to tell about it.
So I'm not really keen on coils in hardlines. I know it's a bit of an apples to oranges comparision, but... Hmmm.
At the M/c if you say so... I have seen that OE, I admit...

[cactuss4]

Well I think i'm starting to get the hang of it, have started using a few different tools that I had around the garage and that seem to be making things a bit easier, as well as getting a better idea.

[JustJohn]

Looks better than the factory GM coils I had at the MC.

[Apogee]

Well I think i'm starting to get the hang of it, have started using a few different tools that I had around the garage and that seem to be making things a bit easier, as well as getting a better idea.

Practice makes perfect...looking much better.

Tobin
KORE3

[cactuss4]

Thanks guys, it is starting to click a bit that's for sure!

Tory

[MonzaRacer]

I have a pair of these but got them from Matco dealer http://m.summitracing.com/parts/lil-...leSwitchTablet


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...q38aAsJd8P8HAQ
And want these, also have two hand benders for larger lines that are 180 deg benders
I also use a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. It has dies for inverted flare, bubble flare, Ford/GM quick connect, and older gm fuel filter flares.
Also made good deal on bad tool from Snap on dealer and got 37deg an flaring dies also.