Slow 68 mustang - Big Girl Pearl or "Yellow Fury"

[arcane73]

Hi!
This is my first post here. I’m a recent transplant into Phoenix by way of New Orleans. I’ve decided to make this post because I have a few ideas and more than a few questions. I’ve been using the forums for a while as a source of inspiration for my current car. It’s a 1968 mustang coupe. I’d like to eventually end up with a car that my wife and I can hop in and take cruising on long road trips and have it perform as good as or even better than my daily driver. I’d also like to have it handle and stop far better than my DD. In short, I want my 47 year old classic to be more reliable and more fun to drive.

The Car: 1968 Mustang.
Current engine/trans: I6 with 3 speed.
Color: Meadowlark yellow
Distinguishing marks: 3 bullet holes in the driver’s door and 3 ricochets on the pass quarter/roof.

So here’s the plan:
I’d like to keep the shock towers. Why? Easier. I’d like to stay with a SBF, 351 likely. Add efi and possibly supercharge at a much later date. I’d like to stick with ‘bolt-on’ type suspensions upgrades. Why? See above and I am hoping to keep the car drivable and do the upgrades in stages. I’ve had a project in the past where I tore it all down and then lost interest/ran out of funds and it got sold off. Not going to happen this time.

I’ve spoken to Mark Savitske about the car a few times and he’s made lots of suggestions based off of what I had to work with. Since he was good enough to spend his time with me on the phone, he’s the one I went through for my parts. About 90% of all of this will be done by me in my garage at home or at a friend’s shop. (He has the welder and the AC’d shop). I don’t see myself doing a wild custom build like many others on this forum because that’s just not where my budget falls. I’ll also be taking this slowly as to keep the wife on board.

So far, all I’ve done after the initial purchase was minor tune-up stuff so there’s really no need for a build thread. It would pale in comparison to most of the rest here and be much, much slower with updates. I have purchased Baer SS4 fronts and TCP front spindles. I’d like to continue with TCP parts unless I’m convinced otherwise. I haven’t even installed the brakes or spindles since I’m not able to gather the rest of the suspension pieces and wheels just yet. But when I do, I’d like to fill in a much of the wheel tubs as possible. I’m hoping for 18X7 with a 245 front and 18X9.5 with 295 rear. I’m not sure how well that’ll work but my friend has a Wheelworks tool so we’ll be getting measurements in the next couple of weeks. My next purchase will be a rear end. The old one will be swapped out with an 8.8. 5-lug, discs, trac-lok….cheap and abundant. After that, rear springs and shocks followed by front UCAs, springs, shocks and then wheels/tires and probably frame connectors after that.



Make it stop
Make it handle
Make it go


So this is where I turn into the listener. What do I need to look out for? What should I avoid and research more? Am I crazy? Is this too timid to be considered Pro-Touring?
Give me your thoughts and concerns…and maybe occasionally some words of inspiration.

Thanks!

[groho]

Im sure you'll have several votes from this group to keep the bullet holes. Inspiration. . .its taken me 4+ yrs to get where I'm at, started with a running, licensed 66 289 car, tore it completely down to the shell, and back up, steel, body and paint. Hope to have the motor in it in the next couple weeks. TCP has just released their pan hard bar for the 8 or 9" rear leaf setup. MikeMaierINC is another great place for mustang racing hardware. Good luck, have fun.

[kmcanally]

I have all Global West stuff on my 68 coupe. I tried a 295 tire on a 18x10 wheel but it rubbed way too much at my ride height (GW leafs dearched 2"). Since I liked the stance I went with smaller 275 tire on a 9" wheel rather than raise it up.

[arcane73]

Im sure you'll have several votes from this group to keep the bullet holes. Inspiration. . .its taken me 4+ yrs to get where I'm at, started with a running, licensed 66 289 car, tore it completely down to the shell, and back up, steel, body and paint. Hope to have the motor in it in the next couple weeks. TCP has just released their pan hard bar for the 8 or 9" rear leaf setup. MikeMaierINC is another great place for mustang racing hardware. Good luck, have fun. I'd like to keep the holes. I plan on leaving the paint/body work until i'm satisfied with everything else, so they'll be there a while. I've been looking at Mike's subframe connectors and tower bracing. I wanted to see about picking someone's brains on a side by side compare to the TCP stuff. I like the idea of supporting the guy that struck out on his own to do something that he loves.
I have all Global West stuff on my 68 coupe. I tried a 295 tire on a 18x10 wheel but it rubbed way too much at my ride height (GW leafs dearched 2"). Since I liked the stance I went with smaller 275 tire on a 9" wheel rather than raise it up. I haven't looked at any of the GW stuff in a long while. I'll take a look at that. And my fall back plan is for 275s. I'm just hoping with the right amount of BS and hammer on the inner fender that I can get it to work.

[andrewb70]

We need pictures!

I just installed the TCP rack in my 67 Cougar and it was a super easy install. Next week I will be ordering one of their front suspension kits.

Andrew

[arcane73]

We need pictures! I just installed the TCP rack in my 67 Cougar and it was a super easy install. Next week I will be ordering one of their front suspension kits. Andrew Crap! Sorry, didn't think to toss any up. I've looked at the rack. It's pricy but Savitske says it's worth every cent.

Pics!

This is what I saw when I went to talk $$

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Bullet Holes!

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Bee Hive that had been built in the door. Someone else had killed them off….I just had to clean it out.

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Kinda simple so far. But I’d love to keep the outer look of the car. I’m all for having it perform great long before it looks good!

[andrewb70]

Crap! Sorry, didn't think to toss any up. I've looked at the rack. It's pricy but Savitske says it's worth every cent.
Pics! This is what I saw when I went to talk $$ https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/Day1_zpsae78cde0-1.jpg (http://s188.photobucket.com/user/arcane73/media/Mustang/Day1_zpsae78cde0.jpg.html) Bullet Holes! https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/photo2_zpsa4af2e66-1.jpg (http://s188.photobucket.com/user/arcane73/media/Mustang/photo2_zpsa4af2e66.jpg.html) Bee Hive that had been built in the door. Someone else had killed them off….I just had to clean it out. https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/photo11_zps64542194-1.jpg (http://s188.photobucket.com/user/arcane73/media/Mustang/photo11_zps64542194.jpg.html) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/Left_zpsebc5c4e0-1.jpg (http://s188.photobucket.com/user/arcane73/media/Mustang/Left_zpsebc5c4e0.jpg.html) https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/04/Right_zpsa61ad7e3-1.jpg (http://s188.photobucket.com/user/arcane73/media/Mustang/Right_zpsa61ad7e3.jpg.html) Kinda simple so far. But I’d love to keep the outer look of the car. I’m all for having it perform great long before it looks good!

Looks like a really clean car to start with. Check out my Cougar build since I too am keeping the outside appearance as it sits, but upgrading the majority of the suspension and drivetrain.

Andrew

[arcane73]

It was clean. Coming from the south I knew that I would be facing less rust when I started looking for something here in AZ. I'm really happy with it. There are a couple of really minor spots on the doors that a friend and I will be patching in the near future.

Your Cougar build is awesome. I had considered an LS swap (my friend was really pushing me) but for budget and sanity reasons I've decided to stick with a Windsor.

Edit: Andrew.....your LS cougar swap has started to peak my interest in the LS again... (don't tell my friend)

[jaybee]

Great starting point, and there's no reason you can't build a really fun to drive street car without cutting it all to pieces. You know how you want the car to be used...that's a big deal in terms of successfully completing a project and for keeping costs under control.

[arcane73]

Great starting point, and there's no reason you can't build a really fun to drive street car without cutting it all to pieces. You know how you want the car to be used...that's a big deal in terms of successfully completing a project and for keeping costs under control.
Thanks John. I knew way back before buying the car what my self-imposed limits would be. I'm just thrilled to have another project in the garage. Been without something for 15 years and my 66 mustang has been gone for 20.

[arcane73]

Guys, I have to admit that after going through Andrew's Cougar and Zenith's 67 LS swaps.....I'm really leaning towards that end of the pool again. I just won't be able to afford the 'buy it and try it' approach. So I'll keep hoping someone will release LS to 1st gen mustang mounts/exhaust or be *very* cautious (overly probably) with my planning when it comes time to engine purchase time.

As an unrelated sidenote: I've purchased Baer SS4 fronts and I plan to run V40 wheels in 18s. Are the brakes going to look anemic and make me consider downsizing to 17s (can't afford to rebuy brakes and pony up the difference) or might i be ok? Haven't seen much yet to really make a good comparison.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Very nice looking car. It looks like something that won't take a whole lot of work either!

[arcane73]

Completely random: I've been cruising Craigslist looking for good deals. Yesterday I stumbled across a complete 8.8 for a decent price. So I called the guy up, talked details and sealed the deal.
This morning the wife and I drove way the hell out to the east valley and picked up the rear end in her Scion XB! It's a microvan according to the title....my wife loves getting the challenge of trying to turn it into a moving van/parts runner.

95 GT Traction-Lock 8.8 with under 130k miles. Complete from rotor to rotor (ignore the spray-bombed calipers) for under $300.
I'll start working on tearing it down, cleaning it up, refreshing *everything* inside (bearings, seals, clutches) and then get it relocated so i can ditch the old brackets and get the new stuff measured and welded up.

[arcane73]

Contents of the first of many boxes:

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This is a bunch of quality parts. I was hesitant to spend such a hefty amount of cash on brakes but it's where you should *never* skimp. I'm so happy with my purchase.

Next up is saving mode again. I've got to gather the necessary pieces to build up the 8.8 and then begins the long and arduous wait for wheels......bleh.

[rustomatic]

You've got a good start and some good ideas. As for the LS vs. 351 argument, both can make excellent power, but the LS will do it more cheaply, and it will also not bother your wife when she wants to drive (won't run in a way that makes her think it's broken). My last Ford small block was just a bit too lopey (cam) for my liking, especially in relation to how much power it made; my new 5.3 LS will make about the same power, but it will also run like a Toyota Camry and get way better mileage (than the not-so-old X302). The engine bay in a '68, even with the towers, is just right for an LS . . .

Consider Mike Maier's approach to suspension: While he's marketed some pretty flashy stuff over the years, he still runs a Panhard bar. On average, his parts are way less flashy than some of the competition's, but somebody at most vintage track days or autocrosses is using something he made (and doing so effectively) . . .

[Mach1_Ron]

Check out these guys for some Good Pricing on the rear-end rebuild stuff...
http://www.quickperformance.com/
Seem pretty reasonable and sell Made in USA stuff...

[68EFIvert]

I will be watching this thread. I have a 68 Convertible and was able to squeeeeeze in a 295/35 18 tire. You will have to have very accurate bs measurements and a BFH for the inner wheel house but they will fit. My only concern would be lateral movement of the axle if you don't run a panhard bar or something. I have a TCP Gbar rear suspension which keeps it located in position. I don't think I have more than a 1/4" of clearance on the inside or outside of the tire. The wheel is 10" wide.

My front tires are 245 wide on 18's and the fit is tight there as well. I am right up against the ball joint and had to roll the fenders to keep them from rubbing. The front wheel is 8" wide.

[arcane73]

You've got a good start and some good ideas. As for the LS vs. 351 argument, both can make excellent power, but the LS will do it more cheaply, and it will also not bother your wife when she wants to drive (won't run in a way that makes her think it's broken). My last Ford small block was just a bit too lopey (cam) for my liking, especially in relation to how much power it made; my new 5.3 LS will make about the same power, but it will also run like a Toyota Camry and get way better mileage (than the not-so-old X302). The engine bay in a '68, even with the towers, is just right for an LS . . .

Consider Mike Maier's approach to suspension: While he's marketed some pretty flashy stuff over the years, he still runs a Panhard bar. On average, his parts are way less flashy than some of the competition's, but somebody at most vintage track days or autocrosses is using something he made (and doing so effectively) . . .

Thanks for the input on the LS/SBF points. I find myself leaning further towards an LS every time I slow down to think about it. I'm sure there are pros and cons to each but when it comes down to getting to the finished product within a certain dollar amount, the LS keeps pulling ahead. And I'm really interested in Maier's stuff. I'm just want to be sure that whatever it is i choose for suspension is going to be dependable and heavy-mileage friendly. I plan on driving the pants off of this thing.


Check out these guys for some Good Pricing on the rear-end rebuild stuff...
Seem pretty reasonable and sell Made in USA stuff...
Thanks for that. I'll hopefully putting together an order in the next few weeks for my rear end parts and I'd like to save where i can. I'll check them out.


I will be watching this thread. I have a 68 Convertible and was able to squeeeeeze in a 295/35 18 tire. You will have to have very accurate bs measurements and a BFH for the inner wheel house but they will fit. My only concern would be lateral movement of the axle if you don't run a panhard bar or something. I have a TCP Gbar rear suspension which keeps it located in position. I don't think I have more than a 1/4" of clearance on the inside or outside of the tire. The wheel is 10" wide.

My front tires are 245 wide on 18's and the fit is tight there as well. I am right up against the ball joint and had to roll the fenders to keep them from rubbing. The front wheel is 8" wide.

Hi Darreld,
I recognize you from VMF. Your car is actually one of the ones I looked at when I was contemplating 17s or 18s. My plan is still as much tire as physically possible while retaining stock body lines. When I'm closer to ordering wheels I plan to measure and remeasure everything to be sure I have my numbers right. I'm also leaning towards some sort of panhard setup on the rear. For more predictability as well as making sure my tires don't get chewed on by the fender.
I can only hope that mine eventually turns out half as nice as yours!

[arcane73]

So. Over the past year I've been gathering parts while waiting on the Phoenix temps to cool back off some.
During that time I've picked up my wheels & tires, new front suspension goodies from Mike Maier, took the 8.8 in for a ring and pinion setup and then had to toss that housing and get another one.

On with the pics!
Wheels and tires. Nothing super fancy or expensive. 17x8 fronts and 17x9.5 rears. 245/45ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 BFG Sport Comp-2.
Got these all in a deal from Discount using my summit card. Turned out to basically be a "buy 3 get third free" deal after rebates.
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Also decided to ditch the stock steering wheel and replace it with something more comfortable.
Took a bit of effort getting the adapter/spacer stuff sorted out and ended up re-drilling and tapping the holes to get everything cleaned up.

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I removed all of the 8.8 brackets to get it ready to go to the driveline shop. Once there, i find out that the inner pinion bearing race had been mangled at some point in the past and had messed up the housing. I didn't want to risk this causing me issues later so i opted to replace the housing with another one.....which means i had to clean up all of the brackets....again.

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"new" housing with center section ready to go. Now I've got to skin off the brackets and get this down to MikeH's house to weld up the perches.

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Now to the most recent changes!

This is where i started....

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All of the old stuff came off easily....which i'm very thankful for....I love rust free cars!

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Performed the 'Shelby Drop' and test fitting parts.

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Ran into a minor snag on the brakes with the rotor rubbing the edge of the caliper. Talked to Baer and they've seen it a couple of times before with the TCP knuckles.
They've dropped some shims in the mail and I'll revisit the rubbing this weekend.

But at the end of the day I just wanted to loose fit it all together and see what I'd be working with once it was done......
I'll be satisfied with the end result. I keep walking by it in the garage and staring....

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[gswartz]

Nice! Very good foundation of a great mustang!

[arcane73]

Still waiting on the shims from Baer. But today was perfect wrenching weather so I decided to make a mess and yank out the tired 7.5 rear end.

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After that, I spent some time measuring and then RE-measuring the old rear so I can be sure that my perches go in the right places on the 8.8.
The wife mentioned that she would like to take the car out this Christmas to go look at lights in our neighborhood. I may be able to use that as incentive to get the rear suspension parts coming sooner than was planned.

A little progress is better than none at all!

[Dave B]

Looks awesome!

[arcane73]

So, took the 8.8 down to Mike H's place and got the perches zipped on. Brought it home and decided to put it in place and set the car on the ground to see how everything fit since most of everything i've done to this point was napkin math. I also mostly buttoned up the driver's side suspension and all that I've got left, really, is to sort out brake line fittings, emergency brake cables, get my DS shortened and the yoke swapped and then focus on the rear. The rear still sits way high but since I'm planning on upgrading/replacing the rear suspension parts in the immediate future, i'm not too concerned with it. The goal is still to have it road-worthy enough to poot around town for a Christmas light cruise night with the wife.

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[rfalker1]

Well I can see your handling had gotten better! You can always run nitrous and healthy engine!

[arcane73]

Well I can see your handling had gotten better! You can always run nitrous and healthy engine!

It has...well, I hope it has. I haven't been able to drive it with the new parts yet. It should act like a normal car and not wander all over the road. The passenger side parts were clapped out to the point of "yikes, i'm glad i tore this down when i did."
And as far as engines goes, I've still got a long list of possibles. I know what I want to use the car for, I'm just trying to decide the most cost-effective way to get there.

[arcane73]

So this weekend was productive.

I swapped out the stock leaf springs for a set of Maier's MOD springs. I'm also going to be installing the panhard bar kit i got from them (later this winter).
I replaced the 'spring assist' rear shocks with Bilstien shocks and while i was in there replaced the rear shackles and the front bushing with poly.
I'm tossing up a few pics of everything since I don't recall adding pics from the North Race Cars caliper brackets that I added to the 8.8.

Test fit of brake brackets. Notice the e-brake spring resting on the stock leaf. Did not want that to happen with the new leaf springs.

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Shimming the caliper bracket with washers to center everything a bit better.

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With new springs in place. The stock SN95 rear brake hose ended up getting held in place with a hose clamp (not in pic) but I'm going to weld up a brake tab in a few weeks when i pull everything out to paint and put in the panhard kit. Also a good shot that shows the fit of the North's rear axles (from Yukon) that centers the rear discs.

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Panhard axle bracket/spring plate mounted. Again, the brake hose is currently loose. I trimmed a notch in it and attached it to a u-bolt with a small hose clamp to hold it still.

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Sitting lower and leveled. I had to futz with the ride height on the front-driver coilover a little. I have a feeling the car is bent. I knew that when i bought it, though. I'll likely make plans after spring to see about getting it put on a frame table to get pulled straight so all of this fun suspension stuff can work a bit better.....and make life easier for me when it's paint and body time.

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All in all, i am pleased. Pleased that all of the old stuff came right out. (i LOVE rust-free cars!) and pleased with the pieces that I'm putting back in. This poor old car will be the best handling worn out 6 banger around. It may spew oil out like it's allergic to it but it's going to handle well while it does!

[rhurley]

Nice work! Tires rub anywhere?

[arcane73]

Nice work! Tires rub anywhere?

Well, i'm not seeing any issues yet. I haven't gone on any test drives with it since I still need to wrap up the brakes but everything looks like I'll be ok. I *may* have to roll the fenders but i won't know for sure for another couple of weeks.

[Mike H]

Hurry up and get the brakes together so we can tackle the panhard bar. We can roll the fenders for clearance, but you know if you add flares you'll have plenty of room! :poke:

[arcane73]

Hurry up and get the brakes together so we can tackle the panhard bar. We can roll the fenders for clearance, but you know if you add flares you'll have plenty of room! :poke:

Brakes are plumbed and bled!
I'll be doing a second bleed tomorrow to finish getting the last of the old fluid out.
It's all ugly but temporary because I want it running for Christmas. I reused the stock 8.8 lines to get the job done. The plan is new lines and tabs and fittings after the panhard bar install.
Hoping to finish up tomorrow by filling the rear, re-bleed of brakes, rough set the alignment and then final check of all of the nuts/bolts/grease fittings.

Stock 8.8 bracket and body to rear end hose. I ground off the stamped fitting so i could use the bracket.

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Used a tee from Russell to tie the body line to the stock hard lines.

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LOVE this thing.

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Rough-in of the left hand side hard line. The new line will be much better fitting.

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Right side.

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Used the stock hard line with a fitting and braided line to go to the rear.

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Here it is all tied together.

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And no flares! :squint:

[arcane73]

So here's the cliff notes version of the latest developments.


Some shots of the random engine parts that I've collected.


This is everything that came with the Eagle stroker kit that I acquired.
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This is the second block that I picked up shortly after picking up the first.
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See why the first block was 'free'?
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Traveled down to MikeH's shop to install the MMI Panhard kit, rough in the alignment and roll the fenders because i had a couple of scrub issues and didn't want to ruin the new tires.
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More home alignment pics with Mike's dad surfing craigslist on his phone for a Crown Vic to autocross....(he found one too!)
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Panhard Bar prior to installation. Don't have any install pics though.
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Starting point on the rears.
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Getting there.
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This lip will no longer chew on my tire.
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And the gratuitous shot of Mike's Chevelle. Some of you guys may recognize it. It's not too shabby for a chevy.
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I'll likely be doing some sort of subtle flares on the car at some point (as much as i hate to admit it). The front passenger fender is a cheap replacement and has to go. Both quarters have prior light wreck damage on them and I'll probably just replace them versus trying to sort out all of the wrinkles under the bondo. Mike can claim this as a minor victory.....


The engine build is still ongoing. I've been collecting parts and looking for a suitable block. I'm expecting my Terminator EFI kit to arrive tomorrow and once the cam specs get sorted out, I'll be ordering that and (likely) AFR 205 heads.
Once all that has been sorted, built, balanced and shipped, I'll start looking at sourcing my transmission. I'll be looking at a TKO500 or 600 since the current build numbers look to be approaching the 500 ft lb torque and hp range. :D

[arcane73]

Minor update:

So i'm at one of those points again where I'm spending money on stuff that isn't seen. Machine work, engine internals, etc. Kinda boring but still progress. Ran into some minor problems with the block i had chosen to build so I had to start over and scored an excellent deal on a super low miles/wear roller block. So that's what's going on currently.

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Time to make some shavings!
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The heads are going to be AFR 195s. Still working with cam specs to see where we end up with that. But in the sims, we keep ending up around the 450hp/500 lb ft torque range. Should be a capable street car.

Oh yeah. Forgot about this pic:

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Scored this here on the Pro-Touring forums.

Also, I braved the 118* temps and did two quick fixes. I swapped out the...unusual.... homemade shifter handle for an OE style ball. I also corrected my speedo by swapping in a black gear for the factory one.

The old gear and shifter 'knob'..
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And now:
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Now I can drive again (when it's not stupid hot) and my eyes won't keep telling my brain that I'm going a speed that I'm not.

[arcane73]

Still gathering parts and wrapping up the machine work on the Windsor. Incoming pic overload.




Ford Motorsports Flywheel and pioneer damper

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RPM Forged Stroker Crank

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Comp Rockers and misc stuff.

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Howards Cams link bar roller lifters

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Victor Jr intake

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Aviaid oil pan.

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AFR 195 Renegade heads.

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Also wrapping up the last of the machine work on the block itself.

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And I've got early and late style timing covers on hand to cover all of the bases and give me options when it comes to accessory drives

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[arcane73]

In non-engine news, MikeH had recently decided to swap out his Corbeau LG1 seats for some Kirkeys to meet racing requirements. I mentioned to the wife that he'd probably let the Corbeau seats go cheap.
She loves a good deal so I now have new-to-me seats. I will have to put in the cougar seat pans (to lower the seats) in the future as well as a one-piece headliner to give me more room. Not a big deal since both were already planned.

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[Bossed]

Looks killer, great job.

[arcane73]

It has been quite a while since the last update. I've been collecting parts....incoming parts-porn.

Worked with Carl at Vaporworx to get the pieces needed to do a 5th gen camaro pump for my stainless 22 gallon mustang tank.
Ordered JBA stainless ceramic coated long tube headers.
Got the ignition pieces as well as the bellhousing for the 6 speed swap (decided on a 6 speed after talking to Mark Bowler at the GoodGuys show in Scottsdale).
And lastly, stopped off at Ron Davis's shop yesterday to pick up my radiator.

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[chunger]

Nice progress -thanks for posting an update, i feared this project was dead!

Out of curiosity, why the 5th gen Camaro pump? Is there something special about it?

[arcane73]

Nice progress -thanks for posting an update, i feared this project was dead!

Out of curiosity, why the 5th gen Camaro pump? Is there something special about it?

Not dead! Just saving money. No debt on this build so it's slower paced.
The 5th gen pump is simple and compact and with the upgrades from vaporworx it will allow me to run a single line forward to feed my Holley EFI system.
Plus, if i'm out on a road trip and it dies, I can get one from just about anywhere and get back on the road.

[FLYNAVY53]

Dig the build! Perhaps I missed it earlier, but what version of Holley EFI are you planning on running? I used the Terminator on my C20 Suburban build due to the integrated transmission controller, but I'm leaning towards the Sniper for the 327 in my '64 Corvette due to simplicity and the fact that Ill be retaining the factory Muncie 4 spd.

Looking forward to your updates!

[arcane73]

Dig the build! Perhaps I missed it earlier, but what version of Holley EFI are you planning on running? I used the Terminator on my C20 Suburban build due to the integrated transmission controller, but I'm leaning towards the Sniper for the 327 in my '64 Corvette due to simplicity and the fact that Ill be retaining the factory Muncie 4 spd.

Looking forward to your updates!

I'll be running the Terminator EFI TBI setup

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_efi/terminator_4bbl_tbi_kits/4bbl_tbi_kits/parts/550-406

[jaybee]

Great project, I love your approach. I don't see much talk so far about chassis stiffening beyond subframe connectors. Any of these Falcon-chassis cars get pretty flexi when you start throwing a lot of power and G forces at them. I'm going to say up front I haven't built this car but I'm putting together a plan for a Maverick so I've put a lot of thought into it...so I could be wrong but use what you want and throw the rest away.

IMO the Maier Racing Shock Tower Brace is exactly the right approach. Combining the Monte Carlo Bar and Export Brace into one piece has to make the whole assembly stronger. There are some really trick-looking, heim jointed shock tower braces out there. To me they look like trying to stiffen something by stringing a chain across it. I'm sure they help but not like a solid structure that ties multiple points together.

Mustang engineers put a lot of effort into stiffening the convertibles. Use their work. The seat reinforcement pan and floor reinforcement plate do a lot to stiffen up the car. You can use them with very little modification. Convertible inner rockers help a whole bunch too. They're a lot more work to put into a coupe, but you could probably modify them to put into the car without having to cut up the floor...or have something made with similar dimensions but built to fit a coupe floor pan. Doing it this way you can use convertible carpet, and until someone tells me I'm dead wrong I'm inclined to think you could install this stuff with structural panel adhesive to keep from having to strip out the whole interior for welding.

Put a solid sheet metal firewall between the rear seat and trunk. A Google search shows people who have done load testing on these cars found that stiffens up the back end a lot.

Trans Am Brace...a small plate that braces the OUTSIDE of each frame rail to the shock tower on the Boss 302 cars.

Boss 302-style engine crossmember. It gussets that curvy crossmember and ties it to the LCA pivot, preventing the bottom of the engine compartment and LCA mount from flexing. Here's an example: http://opentrackerracing.com/product/mustang-streetcompetition-engine-cross-member-w-jack-pad-fits-hipo-shelby-1965-1966/

Maybe this isn't what you're looking for but it's a whole bunch of ways to stiffen the chassis without taking your car off the road for long, cutting out your shock towers, or going to some high dollar add on chassis. Nothing wrong with that, but you said you didn't want to do those things.

[arcane73]

Great project, I love your approach. I don't see much talk so far about chassis stiffening beyond subframe connectors. Any of these Falcon-chassis cars get pretty flexi when you start throwing a lot of power and G forces at them. I'm going to say up front I haven't built this car but I'm putting together a plan for a Maverick so I've put a lot of thought into it...so I could be wrong but use what you want and throw the rest away.

IMO the Maier Racing Shock Tower Brace is exactly the right approach. Combining the Monte Carlo Bar and Export Brace into one piece has to make the whole assembly stronger. There are some really trick-looking, heim jointed shock tower braces out there. To me they look like trying to stiffen something by stringing a chain across it. I'm sure they help but not like a solid structure that ties multiple points together.

Mustang engineers put a lot of effort into stiffening the convertibles. Use their work. The seat reinforcement pan and floor reinforcement plate do a lot to stiffen up the car. You can use them with very little modification. Convertible inner rockers help a whole bunch too. They're a lot more work to put into a coupe, but you could probably modify them to put into the car without having to cut up the floor...or have something made with similar dimensions but built to fit a coupe floor pan. Doing it this way you can use convertible carpet, and until someone tells me I'm dead wrong I'm inclined to think you could install this stuff with structural panel adhesive to keep from having to strip out the whole interior for welding.

Put a solid sheet metal firewall between the rear seat and trunk. A Google search shows people who have done load testing on these cars found that stiffens up the back end a lot.

Trans Am Brace...a small plate that braces the OUTSIDE of each frame rail to the shock tower on the Boss 302 cars.

Boss 302-style engine crossmember. It gussets that curvy crossmember and ties it to the LCA pivot, preventing the bottom of the engine compartment and LCA mount from flexing. Here's an example: http://opentrackerracing.com/product/mustang-streetcompetition-engine-cross-member-w-jack-pad-fits-hipo-shelby-1965-1966/

Maybe this isn't what you're looking for but it's a whole bunch of ways to stiffen the chassis without taking your car off the road for long, cutting out your shock towers, or going to some high dollar add on chassis. Nothing wrong with that, but you said you didn't want to do those things.

Thanks for the input, John. I appreciate it.
As far as Maier's tower brace goes, I have it sitting in the garage and ready to go on when the engine swap happens. I just managed to forget to add a pic.
I do plan on the solid sheet firewall between the trunk and passenger compartment. That's on my list of things to do when I get it on the road after the engine/trans swap.
I also have the trans am braces as well as some other shock tower bracing on my list. Opentracker has a nice kit already put together. http://opentrackerracing.com/product/shock-tower-repair-reinforcement-kit-1967-1970/
The engine crossmember has been on my list for a while. The one you linked is actually built by a vintage-mustangs forum member (zray) and he sells them through opentracker as well as directly.
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/1967-through-1968-mustang-parts-sale/1030361-1967-70-low-profile-street-comp-engine-crossmember.html#post8733241

The honest truth about why I'm waiting to do a lot of strengthening is that I'm almost positive the car is bent. It has been kissed in the rear at some point and I'm pretty sure that it's off-kilter. I plan to get the swap done and drop it off at a local place to have it put on their table and see how bad it really is.
That will determine what's getting removed/replaced and what will be salvaged. Once I know what needs to happen with it, MikeH and I can start planning on cutting/replacing the bad parts and trying to get it ready to be straight again.

Of course, all of that progress will go up here as it happens......sometime next year ;)

[jaybee]

Oh sure, welding a bunch of strength into a chassis that's bent only makes it more difficult to straighten. Again, I really like your approach.

[Gmachine1911]

Just read your build from start to finish, and I love the way you're doing it! Don't be afraid to keep spending money on the "unseen things" as this is what separates a properly built car from the other 75% of stuff running the streets.
I can't take credit for the slogan but I once heard someone say, "buy it once and buy it right"...as a balance, I can't agree more with the fact that you're build is bought and paid for. Any car just drives better when it's paid for!
Keep up the good work!

[arcane73]

Nothing really exciting. Just got my MC and it will be added to the pile of boxes on the shelf.

162249

[arcane73]

So, the latest: The car is in storage and I'm still collecting parts for the swap.
Good news: I'm likely going to call Bowler in the next couple of weeks and order my T-56 as well as a CVF front drive system and the new RTX gauges from Dakota digital as well as subframe connectors from Maier. I've recently received a new wiring harness from AAW and a few other odds and ends. I also placed an order for exhaust tubing and all of that should arrive today.

Bad news: my engine builder had a pretty serious health scare and that's held up engine progress. He's on the mend and I've lit a fire under him to get back on it. I've been waiting long enough.
The reason that the car is in storage is because I no longer have a garage to keep it in because I sold the house. I split from my wife and am now flying solo....so plenty of time to worry about car stuff...just having to be ready for a spot in MikeH's shop. Isn't life a strange thing?

[Sbeck09]

Just noticed you are local, yay! This is a pretty sweet ride you're putting together. Sorry to hear that you've joined the growing singles club on here. Happy to talk cars any time if it helps.

On the CVF kit, I LOVE mine and they have some of the best post-sale support of any company I've ever dealt with so nice choice.

If you have any further issues with engine timelines, I can refer you to the guy that built my 408w.

[arcane73]

Just noticed you are local, yay! This is a pretty sweet ride you're putting together. Sorry to hear that you've joined the growing singles club on here. Happy to talk cars any time if it helps.

On the CVF kit, I LOVE mine and they have some of the best post-sale support of any company I've ever dealt with so nice choice.

If you have any further issues with engine timelines, I can refer you to the guy that built my 408w.

Thanks! I got a chance to talk to the CVF guys at goodguys last weekend and that sealed the deal. I've heard lots of good things about them.
Yeah, won't go too much into the details surrounding the solo part. Just that it happened and life goes on.
And I've known my builder for about 30 years so I've no problems when it comes to giving him a hard time about taking too long. But I also don't have an issue flying back to New Orleans and loading up all of my bits and dragging them back here to get this moving again. If that happens, I may just be in need of a trustworthy local builder.

[arcane73]

More Parts!!!!!
I took advantage of the black friday sales to load up on some of the stuff that will be needed to complete the V8 swap.
To Kim @MCB: Thanks! You rock!

170152170151170150170149

I know a bunch of pics of piling up parts isn't as exciting as seeing the actual build.....but it's still progress to me!

In the pics: Ridetech swaybar, ididit column, CVF front accessory drive, black widow mufflers, and borgeson steering box.
Side note: Fedex made the swaybar delivery at 20 till 10 PM!! those guys work hard and deserve a kudos!

[andrewb70]

That's a sexy pile of parts!

[arcane73]

Saturday started out simply enough. The plan was to get up and follow my friend Mike down to Tucson for the Roadkill Ziptie Drags. He was taking his Chevelle and I was taking Pearl. The drive was going smoothly until right around Red Rock, AZ (40ish miles north of Tucson) I started to hear some engine noise. I take the exit and a lifter/rocker was singing to me that it wanted to turn in its resignation. Mike and his wife said that they'd run back to their house since it wasn't far, and come back with the trailer for me.

So here she sits looking majestic.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/W3CSz9Yh-1.jpg



So, not to have a boring day, I get a text from Mike's wife: "How much more adventure are you up for today?". Me: "bring it!". They arrive in their Revcon Trailblazer with the trailer behind it. They were on the way home and the Chevelle started acting odd and they didn't want it to act up but didn't want to miss the Roadkill event, so they decided that we'd all head down together with the hurt mustang on the trailer behind their behemoth.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/kJhpovZh-1.jpg



Got the car loaded up and tied down and made our way south! Hung out and wandered around the show. Saw a few oddball cars, watched some racing and had a good time. Around 3 or so, we get a message that I-10 is closed....shut down completely. There had been 2 different wrecks in the same area that resulted in fatalities and there was no ETA on reopening it. Mike and Amanda decide we'd take a route through the nearby reservation to get home and avoid the highway. We stop for gas (that beast is so thirsty!) and head off for home.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/RdWAyGDh-1.jpg



So fast-forward to Monday. Since the car was still on the trailer and had undiagnosed engine noise, I decided to finally get it to the frame shop to see just how bad the wrinkles were. The car has been hit in the rear at some point in its life and both rear quarters have minor buckles in them. I knew that when I bought it. I just wanted to see what I was up against before starting to add subframe connectors and frame strengthening, considering cage, etc. Mike heads up and we set off to the frame shop. Al's Unibody in north Phoenix is where i went. We get there and he's got a 53 Chevy truck on the lift, a 56 ford F100 off to the side along with several Jeeps and an asphalt oval track car. I tell him what's going on and he puts my car on the lift and starts pointing out a few minor things like a dent in the floorboard and one of the strut rod braces being beat up from hitting a curb or parking block. He looks at the rear and measures everything. The final verdict is that it was bumped in the rear just enough to put a bow in the quarters. He said that he could pull it straight but it was so minor that it wasn't necessary. He suggested against replacing the quarters as everything was in good shape and said that he'd smooth out the dents and drive it for now if it were his. So that's the plan! I tried to pay him for his time and he just shook my hand and told me to have a nice day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/k29L7KTh-1.jpg



So, the car is back at Mike's for now and the engine noise has decided to stop. He has 4 things in his shop (his chevelle, a teardrop camper, his wife's 61 F100/crown vic swap, and a 65 F100/crown vic swap for a customer) but says that we can play musical parking places if I want to come down and start working on stuff like the subframe connectors and measuring for bigger front tires. I'm likely going to head down in the next couple of weekends and get started on that. I need to keep the upswing of interest going before it gets stupid hot here.

On a parts note, the corner pickup kit that I ordered from Vaoprworx for my tank setup has arrived. I'll likely work on cutting open the new tank and fabbing all of that up sometime after I do the subframes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/azj6SJ0h-1.jpg


And my DSE subframe connectors and RTX gauges from Dakota Digital also arrived.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/01/AJTl39sh-1.jpg

PROGRESS AND ADVENTURES!!

[Thatorange67]

Looks great! Can't wait to see more pics of the parts added to the car. I put a subframe on my 67, i ran the rails down the rockers. It sturdy, but I also reinforced the front end with more tubing. My car was also in an accident, it has taken a lot of time to completely fix the issues involved with that, super glad to hear yours was not structurally detrimental. Good work!

[arcane73]

So, things have arrived, parts have been sorted, and deconstruction has begun.


First things first: My T-56 arrived from Bowler Transmissions along with a pile of goodies to get it installed. This includes the trans, all of the hardware to mount it to the bellhousing, MDL hydraulic clutch setup with Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing, Ron Morris crossmember, McCleod clutch, and various other goodies. A big thanks to Tom Farrington and Craig @ Bowlers.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/kqOc2bTh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/YzY59FWh-1.jpg


The demo begins! The seats came out (not 100% sold on the Corbeau look in the car. I may go back to stock style and find a way to do headrests on them) along with the carpet and instrument cluster.
The floors are solid for the most part. A pinhole or two, but nothing like the cars you'd find in the southeast where i grew up. Most of the carpet backing stuck to the floor so I'll be cleaning that up this coming weekend before getting started on the subframe connectors.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/EvJtDJqh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/7fIApRmh-1.jpg


If you look closely at the driver's seat pan you will see what looks to be "Water Shield" written on it. I'm going to guess that it was put on there on the assembly line. I thought it was cool.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/F0hrXPIh-1.jpg


Anyway, onwards and upwards!

[arcane73]

So the last few days have been spent trying to determine the overall health of the floors as well as tearing out the last of the interior parts that needed to move to make everything easier.
The steering column came out so I could get the pedal support out. The column will be getting replaced with a tilt unit from Ididit. The pedal support will be getting the Mustang Steve bearing upgrade.
While I was pulling all of that apart, I came across a parts label on the support. It looks like the support was replaced around 1993 possibly since it seems to have very little wear on it compared to everything else.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/ukqVvjWh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/fmAhegVh-1.jpg


Found lots of oddities like this tear in the hole where the clutch rod passes through (and was rubbing) and the odd damage to the pulley for the handbrake.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/k4NImnmh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/JapLhnrh-1.jpg


Everything out and time to start poking around more.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/Tzb4ttmh-1.jpg


Didn't take long to find some ugly spots....
The passenger floor was the first to show daylight through it.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/GxwGQJjh-1.jpg


As well as finding what looked like -another- bullet hole in the passenger inner fenderwell that went through to the quarter....


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/NW2FzdBh-1.jpg


I decided to go ahead and cut the seat pans to prepare for my subframe connectors and then blast the floors to see just what i was working with.
Wrapped up everything and prepared to make a mess....


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/p9XHUIuh-1.jpg


The rest of the floor after blasting:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/xsRLah5-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/cFZg7DR-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/02/1ZJqhHy-1.jpg


I decided that there were too many pinholes for my liking and have ordered floors. They should show up in a few days. In the meantime, I'll work on getting the seatpans out and doing the upgrades to the pedal support.

[chunger]

Hmmm, they all seem like pinholes, nothing structural.

I recall another build on here years ago that had floor in similar condition to yours. He fixed them by using silver Por 15. Claimed the silver color was the only color that had some kinda fibers in it. Seemed to work for him and was alot simpler than cutting out the old and welding in new floors.

The hole in the firewall where the clutch rod goes used to be fairly common. As the plastic bushings failed in the linkage to the Z-bar, the metal-on-metal joints would wear pretty fast and get sloppy, often resulting in people substituting straight rods for the upper link. Many of which resulted in the kind of wear you see on your firewall.

Keep up the good work!

[arcane73]

Hmmm, they all seem like pinholes, nothing structural.

I recall another build on here years ago that had floor in similar condition to yours. He fixed them by using silver Por 15. Claimed the silver color was the only color that had some kinda fibers in it. Seemed to work for him and was alot simpler than cutting out the old and welding in new floors.

The hole in the firewall where the clutch rod goes used to be fairly common. As the plastic bushings failed in the linkage to the Z-bar, the metal-on-metal joints would wear pretty fast and get sloppy, often resulting in people substituting straight rods for the upper link. Many of which resulted in the kind of wear you see on your firewall.

Keep up the good work!

Yeah, I briefly considered just putting down some rust preventative/converter and calling it a day but the plan is to keep this ride. So, I opted for pans. And my other early mustangs had various levels of the failing z-bar linkages like you mentioned. But this is the first time I've seen a tear on the firewall to make room for the clutch rod....so many 'impressive' details about this car.

[arcane73]

The most recent happenings: I worked on finishing up the pedal support. I didn't get many in-progress pics because my lovely assistant was poking holes in the floor while i was working on the support.
I'm happy with the finished product. I will need to work on straightening the clutch pedal, though. I'm really curious as to what the hell happened to this thing. There were a few 'fixes' that would have been acceptable had they just spent a little more time making it 'right'.


Completed side shot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/9bqfKcih-1.jpg


Another view that -kinda- shows the off-kilter clutch pedal alignment.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/0cSjK9eh-1.jpg


I also worked on geting the old tank drained and out since I have the larger stainless to go in when I finish adding the new-style fuel pump. The trunk floor looked good. No real issues aside from carpet tape holding down the trunk mat and no sealer between the tank and flange....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/v6DUnPCh-1.jpg


And then Mike suggests that I wheel the car over to the lift so we can get it in the air and remove the exhaust, brake and fuel lines and get ready to remove the floors.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/ZjZX6iPh-1.jpg


And then........Sawzall happens!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/4k875nWh-1.jpg


I cut out the larger sections and will finish up the smaller areas with a cutoff wheel while it is on the ground. I hope to get back to it this weekend to do that and maybe even get the subframe install started.

[arcane73]

So with everything that is going on in the world, I opted to hang out in the shop for a little bit and get my floors mocked up, trimmed, and then welded in.
I welded in everything with the exception of the sides along the transmission tunnel because I have a feeling that I'll need to move some metal there when it's time to put the T-56 in.
I will likely get started on my subframe connectors next because there's nothing like cutting up fresh floors!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/1AaZkBKh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/JjnRyqch-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/03/DmUlYvQh-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Today was spent working on the subframe connector install. Not a lot else going on lately. Been staying at home since the drive down to the shop is around 30-40 mins. I may work on getting the tired 6 cylinder and 3 speed pulled out next weekend and finish the connector install. I haven't decided what to do with the old drivetrain yet. Mike has offered to load it up on the trailer for the next scrap run, but I feel someone locally would likely be interested in it. I may even post it on craigslist. I'm not even sure what it would sell for, to be honest.


Either way, here is a pic of me making sparks.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2020/04/fwhtNzyh-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Good progress. Were the torque boxes in decent shape?

Andrew

[arcane73]

Good progress. Were the torque boxes in decent shape?

Andrew

They are. Everything is in really good shape, really. I just decided to replace the floors since my plan is to keep the car and the idea of revisiting pinholes in the floors at a later date didn't make sense.

[1968Mustang]

Happen to have a status update for Mustang build?

[arcane73]

Happen to have a status update for Mustang build?

It just so happens that I do!

So.....10 months have passed it seems. I've not been getting a lot done on the car itself. But recently, this has started to happen:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/S4mBpkdl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/jftZoJzl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/PbzK8sTl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/VfBKdFcl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/rBExXFCl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/IQEtfX7l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/d7Lru08l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/eWeAAcfl-1.jpg

FedEx Freight picked it up on the 1st. I figure maybe 4-5 days to get it here. Once it's here, I'll get to work on pulling the old drivetrain and getting the new stuff safely nestled in place.

I still need to decide what I'm going to do with the old 6 cyl and 3 spd. I don't want to sit on in and i certainly don't have a place to keep it stored.

[arcane73]

So, I've spent the last two days working on the car. Getting down to my friend's shop takes about an hour, so it's not ideal. But he needs the space again soon, so it's been a thrash to get as much done there as i can before we load it up and bring it home. Not a lot of pics of what's been going on. Just a lot of cleanup, test-fitting, dailing in, etc.


Out of the crate and finally in my hands.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/6uFZQeNl-1.jpg


Getting ready to get started.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/o3nQZ2El-1.jpg


Engine out - so much dust from it being parked outside under a cover....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/mUJg4Vpl-1.jpg


The tired 6 is out (and hopefully finding a new life with someone soon)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/W4eePCFl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/0b1uZqPl-1.jpg


Everything out and rolled it out to rinse it off.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/0nvpKYdl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/aBs8tCyl-1.jpg


Borgeson steering box installed while everything was out of the way.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/kbRbgX8l-1.jpg


Quicktime Bellhousing on and dailed in
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/G0BJYDhl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/oR1dKh7l-1.jpg


Engine roughly in place. Tomorrow's plan is to work on the drive angles, get the T56 mated up and the trans crossmember installed and continue working on this as we go.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/Pr0Xo1Pl-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Exciting progress. Always a big step when a new engine goes in.

[gsxrken]

Cool project. It’s not uncommon for someone who loads up on parts like you have to tap out after the years go by without driving it and the CFO has other ideas for your disposable time and income. Glad to see you stuck with it!

I expect you’ll be performing a major lobotomy on the tunnel to get the proper angles with a T56. My 69 with a TKO needed it despite what everyone says about conversion mounts etc... and they’re smaller than the T56. Avoid the temptation to skimp here.

[arcane73]

So, the 3-day thrash at my friend's shop is complete. There was a lot of activity and I didn't get a lot of pics of the work during.

Here's where it stands:

Zray crossmember in - removed front half of jack pad to allow room for the low oil pan.

Driver side header was painfully close to the steering box. Shifted engine to the right and dimpled header. (that hurt to do, but I'm ok with it.)

There is clearance now, but it was a tight fit. I was expecting that to be the case anyway.

Everything is as low as i can get it. The T56 required use of the convincing hammer on the floor bracing to give it some room and I still need to work a little more on that.

I ended up having to open the shifter hole a bit. About an inch to passenger and minor trimming to the front.


Next is getting everything settled at the home garage. I threw everything inside the car to bring it home. Once I got home, I threw everything....well, everywhere....to get it unloaded.

I need to roll it outside this weekend and vacuum and hose it down so i can work in a poop-free environment. It seems that furry critters even like to hang out in an empty shell if they're given the chance.


Once all of that is done, I can start making progress on wiring, plumbing and whatever else I can handle from home. Once Mike has his chevelle painted and has some time, I'll likely get the exhaust finished up and work towards buttoning this thing up to start making noise with it. It seems like there's a lot to do still because there is. But I am going to try and stick to small things to keep from being overwhelmed.


Pic of the fit of the T56


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/pAUAswZl-1.jpg


It still needs some bump-love up top.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/gQEW0TXl-1.jpg


On the trailer and headed home.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/02/Opph3Mxl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Cool project. It’s not uncommon for someone who loads up on parts like you have to tap out after the years go by without driving it and the CFO has other ideas for your disposable time and income. Glad to see you stuck with it!

I expect you’ll be performing a major lobotomy on the tunnel to get the proper angles with a T56. My 69 with a TKO needed it despite what everyone says about conversion mounts etc... and they’re smaller than the T56. Avoid the temptation to skimp here.

Thanks! I keep saying that this is my last hoo-rah. I've spent too much time, money and effort on this pile to give up just yet.
As far as angles go. A cursory glance looks like we're close. Close enough that I may opt for a CV ds option like @andrewb70 used to prevent the tunnel work needed to gain 1*.
I'll know more once I get everything cleaned up and sorted. I'm going to spend a few days getting home from work and relaxing before I dive back into it.
The 3 day 'thrash' to get it hung so it could be moved wasn't really enjoyable. Sure, I got to hang out with a buddy and do car stuff. But the 2 hour commute added to a self-imposed 3 day deadline kind of sucked the fun out of a lot of it.

I want to get back to the pattern of having an idea at the day job and then coming home to grab coffee and make small steps while saving the weekends for larger jumps.

[arcane73]

So not much has happened over the last week. Had some company over from out of town and didn't work on the car. My goal is to figure out how best to continue the work i need to do in the limited space that I have. I did push the car outside and clean out all of the dust and critter poop that had accumulated while the car was stored outside at my friend's shop. I've also made plans to pick up another buddy's Eastwood Mig 175 welder. He needed something more robust and bought an ultra-fancy Miller and is selling me the Eastwood at a 'can't pass up' price. It should be more than enough to finish zipping in my floors and covering the other small jobs that I'll need to do to get this pile back on the road soon.


Here is where it sits and what I have to work with.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/03/lSgis08l-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/03/0VCvZahl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/03/Lm7mVzyl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Since getting the car back home and taking some time off to relax a little, I decided to start looking at my engine and trans measurements. I knew using the Ron Morris adjustable mounts would mean that some fine-tuning would be required.

I put the car up on my ramps and picked some points to hang plumb bobs on to get an idea of where everything was. I have the engine shifted to the passenger side just a bit to make room for the header/borgeson steering box spacing. I just need to make sure that I match that spacing on the trans so the whole thing isn't sitting in the car at a weird angle.

After looking at everything, I'll need to make some adjustments. I think I will need to trim a bit of the factory shifter opening (no pic yet) to give me the clearance I like once I get ready to do a final-tighten on everything. I got it all hung and started to do the math when the UPS guy showed up with my huge box of maintenance stuff for my daily. I have over 200k on my mazda beater, so I decided to do a whole lot of much-needed love. That will probably eat up a couple of weekends at least since I have already ran into one broken bolt in the lower control arm/subframe attachment point.


Either way: some quick pics of the mustang and floor doodles and a dirty mazda underpinnings shot.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/04/QTkvUQSl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/04/pTwzkWbl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/04/oVvzwtol-1.jpg


not mustang related:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/04/3CExQjal-1.jpg


On a side note - i really need to get rid of the old drivetrain from the mustang. I'm getting tired of having to work around it.

[arcane73]

Just a brief update for today. Work on the car is progressing slowly. The workload at the day job has ramped up again since people are coming back to the office. I've been trying to stay motivated and do stuff on the weekends but I've been wiped out lately. I did finally manage to get the engine and transmission aligned like i wanted and spent last weekend getting the floors zipped in. I still need to do some fine tuning and clean up before i move on to something else.


I placed an order that should make my life a little easier. I'll have more on that in a couple of weeks.


I haven't been taking any pics since not much is going on. But here's the latest.


This is what i ended up doing to the crossmember to give myself room for the 6 speed. I'll go in and weld up the edges to clean and finish it up when I am under the car finishing up the subframe connectors.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/06/rgbsEDMl-1.jpg


Here's where I stopped for the day this weekend. Once I get under the car to finish the subframe connector install, I'll clean everything up and move on to getting the floors prepped for lizardskin.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/06/sdlQdQvl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

So, after much debate and back and forth....well.....I decided to spend a bit of money to help make things a bit easier and prevent the need to drag the car down to my buddy's shop as often.

I pulled the trigger on this:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/07/xudTjLZl-1.jpg


I ordered it back in mid-May and knew then that Covid would be slowing down their production. It arrived today!

I also plan on finally getting a small compressor as well. I'll likely handle that before Fall.
Now i just need it to stop being triple-digit temps again so i can spend some time in the garage without sweating to death.

[arcane73]

Had some time to move things around and get some test-fitting. I knew things would be tight but I'm satisfied with what room I'll have. I plan to cut away some of the wall on the driver's side to make the lift post on that side flush. It was added by a previous owner and it's not much more than pegboard and framing, so it won't be much to cut away and make room for the lift. I'd prefer to leave the majority of it up. It keeps my mess on my side and off of the dailies, as well as preventing the 'shop' side of the garage being seen from the street when we open the double door.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/07/QzzAlYpl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/07/4fsXyTdl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

After doing some measuring and trimming and roughing in of the lift, I'd decided how and where it was going to be mounted. Drilled my anchor holes in the floor on the right-hand side and set the anchors without issue. I will go back in and trim out the openings in the 'wall' to give everything a cleaner look. Started to drill the holes for the anchors on the left-hand side (the side against the outer edge of the slab) and 4 of the 5 punched through the concrete. No big deal as the instructions mentioned that it was ok as long as the concrete was 4.25-.5" deep. The concrete is 3.25" thick.....damn it. A void of nothing but air and dirt below the holes. Sonuva......fine. I started calling around to get quotes on footers. I was going to have to grind the right side down some to make it level so I decided to look at having two footers put down so that everything is thick enough, tied into the existing slab and level so i have less to do.


After calling around and getting lots of "too busy" or "too small of a job" or "3 months lead time" answers, I found a local contractor that is well reviewed, has a good idea of what I'm wanting to do and is willing to work me in to their already booked schedule. The downside is that it's more money that I didn't want to spend, and will cut into the first part of the cooler season here in Phoenix. Either way, I'd rather it be done right and remove the worry of the concrete giving up and allowing the car to flatten me. Progress....i guess....Once the lift is in, I'll hopefully be able to get back into the subframe install and floor completion. Then i can squirt paint and lizardskin on the floors and start the wiring.....and maybe fire this pile up at some point....


Recessed lift post into the divider 'wall'.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/08/kBC5z4jl-1.jpg


Only part of base sticking out on the double bay side.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/08/aBtCp2Rl-1.jpg


Post on the thin side of the slab.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/08/jBe1VTql-1.jpg


Anchors after 'setting'. The top-left one is the only one that set correctly. The others could be pushed back down by hand.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/08/iqTBQwIl-1.jpg


This will be suitable for space once I can get everything mounted solidly. The arms on the divider wall will sit flush and out of the way.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/08/HUkdScZl-1.jpg

[gsxrken]

Nice purchase! I should’ve done that 20 years ago.

[Falcon64]

[QUOTE=arcane73;1363406]After doing some measuring and trimming and roughing in of the lift, I'd decided how and where it was going to be mounted. (Quote)

BOY....I THOUGHT MY INSTALL WAS TIGHT. .....at least i didn't have to go out to the sidewalk.
I have concrete footers 24" deep x 12 x12 with a backbone linking them because brick paving.
Note 1" clearance to house and zero at carport frame.
The right side post has polished aluminum building cladding to disguise it cos this is the entry to my house.

[arcane73]

BOY....I THOUGHT MY INSTALL WAS TIGHT. .....at least i didn't have to go out to the sidewalk.
I have concrete footers 24" deep x 12 x12 with a backbone linking them because brick paving.
Note 1" clearance to house and zero at carport frame.
The right side post has polished aluminum building cladding to disguise it cos this is the entry to my house.

We do what we have to, right? Although, I'm jealous of the height you've got over what I'll have.

[arcane73]

So, the latest on the lift install:

Concrete guy requested a bit more space for the footer on the inner wall. He wanted to do a 2' x 2' square that was 1' deep and tie it in to the existing slab with rebar. I agreed with that assessment and opened up the divider wall on either side of the post to the next stud. That not only gave him enough room for the footer, it gave me more room to walk around the post when the car is on the lift.

I waited to get a spot in his work schedule and then had to wait for the concrete to cure. Fast-forward to this week and I've punched new holes for anchors in the concrete and started to get this ball rolling again. I was exceptionally pleased with how well he was able to get everything leveled like I asked.

Here's where everything stands as of this morning. I plan to get it all mounted, lines ran and filled, and the car in the air to test everything out this weekend.

Making a bigger hole:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/dk6sdRsh-1.jpg

Posts on their new pads with anchor holes drilled:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/mwHpgEXh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/opLxtPSh-1.jpg

Everything is level and ready to be bolted in place:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/LM1FkxOh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/F9IvBtIh-1.jpg

From post to post:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/hoTNzqDh-1.jpg

The following weekend resulted in more work and results!

The lift is mounted and I'm in the process of bleeding the system to get the last of the air out. I ran into a couple of issues that kept it from being a flawless install but nothing that can't be addressed.
I had to re-tighten a couple of fittings and I'll have to bleed the lines a couple of more times, I think. Overall, I'm happy.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/Iksxz2Uh-1.jpg

I ended up removing the light above the door. I'll need to turn it 90* or move it back to prevent the car from making contact with it at full lift. No big deal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/LLgAI1Ch-1.jpg

Once I get the bleeding completed and light moving/replacement done, I should be able to sit upright under the car at full lift. As it stands now, I have to sit stooped a little on that stool. I'm sure that I can find a shorter stool to make things more comfortable, but I'm just happy that I won't have to lay on my back to finish the work underneath the car!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2021/10/SdupUy7h-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Here's the latest: I decided that I needed to cut open the trans tunnel to make enough room for the T56 to fit comfortably. I had tried to avoid doing that to begin with, but I went ahead and ordered the new tunnel patch kit from Tin Man Fabrication and cut open the tunnel. I also went back to the Ron Morris dropped motor mounts to help with getting my driveline angles right.

Here's what comes next: I need to remove the trans crossmember and move it back a bit to give myself a bit more room for adjustment. I also want to move the engine back some to give the steering box a bit more clearance from the headers. This clears up a couple of issues, but creates another. I have a ZRay engine crossmember (from the Vintage Mustang Forums). The combination of the Aviaid oil pan I'm running and the dropped motor mounts cause clearance issues with the crossmember and oil pan as well as it gets in the way of the pan drain plug. I don't blame the crossmember, it's a quality piece. I'll just need to modify it once i get the engine where i want it.

Anyway, here's some pics of what all is going on at the moment.

Here is the tunnel kit from Tin Man. It is well put together and even has a 1/4 inch plate reinforcement for the tunnel to replace the factory brace.
193825

Here are a few pics of the T56 in it's place being mocked up for clearance.
193826
193827
193828

Here's the ZRay crossmember. I started by thinking that I could notch the tube to clear the drain plug (in the lower right as seen) but I soon confirmed that i had zero room between the pan and the crossmember. I -think- that I will go ahead and move everything and possibly cut and remove the tubing section and mock everything up and then get another piece of tubing and 'turn' it back a bit. That should give me the pan clearance i need and still clear the steering....all while still providing reinforcement that it's meant to.
193829

I've also asked my buddy Mike H (https://www.pro-touring.com/members/39900-Mike-H) that has a Chevelle (it's a full-build autocross/road race car) to come over when he has some time to help out. I keep getting frustrated with the way things are trying to snowball and I'll gladly pay for a few beers to have him talk me off of the edge when I get overwhelmed. Like I mentioned, his Chevelle is a fully built car that he did completely at home, so I trust him to offer insight and ideas and keep me on track.

[arcane73]

The latest: been chipping away at getting the welding work done. My friend came over a few weekends ago to help get me back into moving on the floors. I've since got the subframe connectors installed and have started working on getting the tunnel work completed. 3 weeks ago I had to write a check for a new AC system at the house. That stung a bit. 2 weekends ago I filled and redrilled the holes for the trans crossmember to dial in the drive angles. After that, I started to work on the floors again but had to stop because my bottle was almost empty. This past weekend I got the bottle swapped out, got it home and hooked up......and my regulator died after about 30 minutes of work.

I have a new regulator ordered but the hose is on backorder, so I'm not sure how long that will hold me up. Since I couldn't do any more welding, I fiddled with the passenger side motor mount to give myself a bit more clearance between it and the frame horn where it attaches and then I swept the floor and cleaned up my toolboxes. Now I'm waiting to see how long before I can get back to welding. I just need to finish the tunnel and I should be ready to put the seat pans back in and then squirt primer, seam seal, and lizard skin everything. I know my welding leaves a lot to be desired, and I'm trying to get better.

This is the rear mount for the Detroit Speed subframe connectors after I had to cut it all back off to redo a lot of the fitment. You can see here how much space I need to make up to make it fit the lines of the floorpan. Originally, I had it flush to the floor but the fit on the rear of the mount was bad. This was after getting the rear to fit better with plans to 'bring the floor to the mount'.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/TMsA7Arl-1.jpg

I went to my local metal shop and picked up some plate to weld over the mount plate to reinforce it since the gap was so significant. Here are pics of the plate before welding and the thickness of the metal.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/Co98QhWl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/IFlMZEul-1.jpg

Here is the reinforced mount held in place before being welded in. Note: this is the only time the welds look decent. It was because this was done on my bench and not over my head under the car. (that's my story and I'm sticking to it!)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/egEHCKTl-1.jpg

This is the passenger side mount mostly assembled.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/OMhXvgKl-1.jpg

This is the inboard plate on the driver's side. Notice the gap between the front of the mount and the floorpan. I decided on this side to weld everything to match the inner plate/framerail and bring the floor to the mount.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/4jHuB4Bl-1.jpg

After all of that work was done, I had to go back and address the issue of the floor now being 1/2 off from the tunnel. I had recut the passenger side welds to see if I could make the connectors fit better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/dOuUaJTl-1.jpg

Here's where it sits currently. I closed the gap and I'm working my way forward to get everything zipped up. I'm hoping to tackle the rest of the tunnel and getting the tunnel top welded on this weekend, or at least fitted and tacked in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/Y0NbHk7l-1.jpg

On a side note: I added a bottle bracket to my cart to prevent the bottle from falling over and turning into a torpedo.
Also, disapproving shop cat photo.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/ifSANISl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/05/KBsnuspl-1.jpg

All in all, I don't know that I'd do this style of connectors again. Maybe they'd have not been so bad if i were more experienced in my welding.
But onward and upward!

[arcane73]

Here's the latest!

I got my floors, tunnel patch, and seat pans welded in. I was trying to decide on whether or not I would wait for the pans to go in before or after I sprayed lizard skin. As you can see, I put the pans in. I'll spray some lizard skin under the floor in the area of the seat pans to help with blocking heat and call it a day. My logic, flawed or not, was that I was tired of metalwork and welding and wanted to get on to the next steps.

Anyway, I got all of that done and headed to my buddy's place to drop off my fuel tank with him and borrow his paint guns. While I was there, his newest German Shepard decided he didn't recognize me well enough and tried to take a snap at my face while i was petting their other dogs. When i shoved him back, he caught my arm. I showed him the error of his ways and we're on good terms now. No stitches needed, just bruising and likely a new scar. I took the rest of the Memorial Day weekend off to nurse my busted wing.

The latest is the floors have primer on them. I need to touch up a couple of places under the car, but next step is seam sealing the welds. I have also decided to pull the front and rear glass and headliner out to spray some lizard skin on the roof while I'm in that mode. I know the windshield and gasket are shot, so this gives me a chance to replace those and check the channel for any hidden rust. Hitt hates welding stainless since he hasn't perfected the control of heat and warping with it, but I told him that i didn't care how ugly the top of the tank was. Just as long as it didn't leak.

On to pics!

Working on the tunnel.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/NCba7pEl-1.jpg

Pans going in.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/OK8hyyEl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/SLMvNydl-1.jpg

First time seats have been in the car in over 2 years!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/8CZf7pVl-1.jpg

Primer down.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/rBLUqjFl-1.jpg

Tank work.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/GJCgh7hl-1.jpg

Stupid dog.....a few days after the disagreement.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/WrbWoKRl-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Good progress. What's the story with the dog?

[arcane73]

Good progress. What's the story with the dog?

He followed their other dog out of the garage as i was getting out of my car. Their other dog is a hound-mutt and barks at everything. She ran up to me barking and as i was leaned down and to give her ear scratches like a do when i come over, the shepard decided that he didn't care for it and tried to nip me. I don't think i'd been down there to meet him but -maybe- once since Mike got him, so it was a combo of other dog barking and not being familiar as far as I can tell. Mike called to him after i pushed him off and dressed him down verbally. He followed me around in their house with his tail tucked and licking my hand after i got my arm cleaned up.

Dunno, I didn't feel threatened and I'm not upset at all about it. I was raised around Dobermans all my life and it won't be my first dog-induced scar. (none of mine ever bit me, it was a neighbor's dog as I dashed across their yard as a dumb kid)

[arcane73]

More 'while I'm here' happened. I started to carefully remove the windshield and back glass trim and realized that it didn't want to come off easily. After lots of careful maneuvering and actually cutting and removing both pieces of glass, I was able to determine why the trim wasn't letting go. It had been held in place with silicone tub caulk! Yep....Not a bit of actual sealer anywhere on either of the gaskets. But there was a serious amount of caulk between the trim clips and body that I guess was meant to hold the trim in place.....who knows.....


Anyway, got all of that garbage out and didn't find anything too terrible. A couple of rusty spots were present, so I decided to wire wheel the channels and prime them as well. I've ordered some factory color 2k paint in a rattle can to go over the areas before I seal everything back up. I'll also need to do a little hammer work on the trim to flatten it back out where the previous installer ham-fisted it down in a couple of places.


Sooner or later, I'll actually get to start putting stuff back together......probably.


I hear that old body filler and caked-in dirt also help hold trim on.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/JcTAubml-1.jpg


This is not a tub...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/K20lDqbl-1.jpg


This was after I removed the glass and gasket and pulled off the majority of the caulk by hand.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/7AHwAxgl-1.jpg


It cleaned up well in most spots.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/YDNb9PGl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/thtJsCbl-1.jpg


Rear glass - seam sealer looks to have gone away and rust had started to form in the corner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/oBSCWdzl-1.jpg


And some minor spots along the top of the rear glass.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/suuzdOCl-1.jpg


Primer on and instantly dried in the 112* heat.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/EBWfXMKl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/bVsVAjzl-1.jpg




I swear I'll be putting parts back on at some point.....

[andrewb70]

Solid progress!

Andrew

[arcane73]

Got color sprayed on the window channels and the Lizard Skin sound control sprayed on the floor/divider/roof.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/BcdRVBbl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/RZ43YCxl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/gsk892gl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Lizard skin is done! Today's effort was spraying the ceramic insulation. I re-masked it all and sprayed the roof, firewall, floors, and divider. It seemed to spray easier than the sound control.


Either way, it's done. Tomorrow will be getting it back in the air and spraying Raptor Liner on the underside of the floor.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/iQWAIdFl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/JRpnCaUl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/PTvGB70l-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/cprCm20l-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/QOGHOoal-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/7dHU4dQl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/2lfFBeOl-1.jpg

[chunger]

Looks good! Are you planning on putting anything on top of it, like insulation or anything?

[arcane73]

Looks good! Are you planning on putting anything on top of it, like insulation or anything?

It shouldn't be necessary since I used both sound and heat control from LizardSkin. But I will likely use some sort of factory style underlayment for extra padding when I get ready to put carpet down and the one-piece headliner in.

[arcane73]

Slept in today like a lazy bum and got a late start. But I got the Raptor Liner sprayed under the floors. I believe this completes the spray work. The next step is something even more fun.....wiring. yay!
Side note: I need to get better at welding or find better ways to cover up the ugly!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/06/8C0St7kh-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Last weekend I finally got the T56 back in the car for the final time (hopefully). I wanted to see what sort of changes the tilt column and shift lever that came with the transmission kit made so I added the lever and I think it may be too long/tall for my tastes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/iSBHzJFh-1.jpg

I took a seat and rested my forearm on the shifter ball with the transmission in 6th.....I'll look at shorter lever options. A buddy has offered his for test fitment. It's the 10" tall/4.75" back version whereas mine is the 12" tall/7.5" back.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/Dbr6rInh-1.jpg

This week, my new cluster bezel came in. When i opened it, a locating pin fell out of the bag. It looks as if it was broken when the chrome finish was applied since half of the broken section of the pin is chrome that would normally not be if it were totally attached. Either way, it didn't affect me adding my Dakota Digital gauges so it all worked out.

I tried to get a decent pic showing the chrome on the area of the pin that it shouldn't have been.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/1se5FsDh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/px5lbDHh-1.jpg

All of this is tired, but I'll wrap it up and hang on to it for now.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/SlG2A9oh-1.jpg

Much better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/u4WmxKWh-1.jpg

I also picked up a small sheet of massbacked vinyl. I'll cut a small section to cover the shifter hole when I decide what boot/cover I'll end up using.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/ZZLaJALm-1.jpg

Today's efforts! I begrudgingly started the wiring.
I started out by mounting the fuse block and working my way out from there. I will be wrapping the wires with TechFlex and Tesa's 51036 tape.

Step one: mount/remove/remount/remove/mount one last time.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/6KUD73nh-1.jpg

Step two: stare into the void.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/WFnbnmEh-1.jpg

Step three: just keep at it!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/9BMTgQuh-1.jpg
I'll add that, so far, the AAW wiring kit is well thought out and their super pricey crimpers make nice crimps.
I'll keep chipping away at this tomorrow.

[chevelletiger]

Really like the progress.
I'm very slowly doing a 68 notch back for my daughter.

[arcane73]

This is becoming a test of willpower between the 'while i'm here' and desire to be able to drive the car. Work has been somewhat slow since we've been in the 100-teens in Phoenix. I was gifted a portable AC unit to cut down on the heat and now I need to rearrange the garage and find an outlet that it won't keep tripping.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/CKRMQovm-1.jpg


The 'while I'm here' part:

The car has been in its share of crashes. I knew that ahead of time. What I did not expect was the meth-fueled backwoods hackery that I keep finding.


This escalated quickly.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/5A6Rd2Vl-1.jpg


3 of the 4 bumper bracket to frame bolts were cross-threaded and not where they should have been. You can see that one was pushed into the rail and the other 2 damaged ones are pushed in the direction of the bumper being bent up when it was wrecked.


The rear one is fine. The front one is.....pushed back into the rail.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/bHASzmpl-1.jpg


Front is pushed up and rear pushed down.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/aoeBOJvl-1.jpg


None of that is really terrible. I was able to chase threads to salvage them and push the mangled one back into place. I'll get new bolts and move on from this.


Next up: taking in all of the wrinkles/rust in the front aprons and core support.


Battery tray rust. Not a big deal since the tray was removed and battery is going to the back. I'll clean it up and treat it. The driver's side apron had wreck damage as well as minor wrinkles in the support.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/cbmVXJBl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/OCrGf6Yl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/PkonCCNl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/5dfEs7rl-1.jpg


The nut in the center of the core support looks to have been welded on -outside- of the support and came off with the grill support piece.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/RPrLZIil-1.jpg


And then there's this trainwreck. The driver's headlight extension was held on by having the bumper brace pushed up from the bottom and the headlight wires being pulled tight. No hardware in it at all....

Unless you count the drywall screws that were added for.....reasons?


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/jqgSwhXl-1.jpg


Anyway, I pulled the grill out to begin wiring and prepping for the radiator. One thing snowballed into another, and here we are. I did get the core support trimmed out to allow space for the much larger Ron Davis radiator. I have some cleanup to do next and I'll decide what will get replaced and what will go on the 'later' list.


I don't have a before really....but after:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/IocYEjBl-1.jpg


This thing is huge.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/bH9NWoKl-1.jpg


This is just resting on the lower rails at the moment. I'll get it properly mounted after i wrestle with wiring for lights.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/lLlrTFTl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

In other news, I forgot to mention the passenger side headlight bucket. The bent bumper support was pressed into the bottom of that side as well but had managed to bend the bottom lip. I'm hoping that I can heat it and flatten it back to a somewhat correct shape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/MxfiP1Kl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/6i4Z7yUl-1.jpg

I was able to heat that section and use two pieces of scrap wood and a c-clamp to slowly apply pressure to it. It's not perfect, but it'll do well enough. I'd rather not keep trying to smooth it out and end up cracking it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/raBB85fl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/mjVoJFPl-1.jpg



Ugh.....it just keeps getting better. I had hardware arrive today that would allow me to remount the fender extensions and rough-in the headlights so i could finish the wiring on the front half of the car. I take the passenger side extension apart and start to realize that something wasn't quite right...


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/FEjT6dal-1.jpg


See it? No? Here.....


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/pDwDtr8l-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/veQyCwHl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/z6mMG6jl-1.jpg


One of the three damned cutouts was left there from day one! I'm pretty certain it's original because both sides have FoMoCo stamps on them.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/omKTR81l-1.jpg


So I get to get my dremel out to knock that out. But it gets better....the driver's side isn't original to the car. It's green on the back and has body filler squished in a corner.

Not only that, but there's wrong hardware everywhere in it AND it's bent enough at the area along the bottom of the headlight that I either need to 'massage' it back into shape with a plastic hammer and heat, or just wing it and leave it bent and the headlight door fitting poorly.


Green!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/eY5a3SWl-1.jpg


I didn't take a picture of the wavy bottom. I just put it all back in the garage and came in for some coffee and forum ranting.

One last thing I thought was neat.....if you're not aware, Ford wanted someone to know that the correct hardware for the mounting studs was 1/4-20 sized.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/07/xG5GVQLl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

I’ve been keeping another thread active on the Vintage Mustang Forums.
This is the latest on everything that I’ve copied from that thread.

My MaxJax failed. The pump acts like it gave up and wouldn’t lift any longer. It's been great. When it works. I've been hesitant to go on a rant about it, but I’ve had it fail on me twice. It didn't want to lift regardless of how many times I bled the system. The second time it happened, 2 weekends ago, I called my sales guy and explained my extreme disappointment. He said that he'd have tech contact me....4 days later I contacted him again for an update. He got supervisors involved and soon after, I got an email from a Bendpak tech asking for pictures of the power unit. I sent them over and soon after I sent them, I got a response saying that they were going to replace it and I'd get a tracking number. That was the end of last week and I've not gotten shipment notice, but I can respond back when it arrives with a report.

2 days later:

BendPak has sent me a replacement motor/pump for my lift. It arrives tomorrow. In the meantime, I've been trying to get other stuff on the nose done so I can install the radiator and reassemble the nose of the car. I've got a huge order of all of the grill/valance/bumper hardware arriving tomorrow along with a new front bumper. My plan is to -hopefully- have the nose going back together this weekend.

In the meantime, I've got random pics of stuff that's been happening.

For starters, some on VMF asked me about my new Dapper headlights. Here's the backside of my setup. You can see the heatsink and the main light pigtail along with the feed wires for the daytime running light. I wrapped those in shrink wrap and then Tesa tape to protect them. It's a snug fit but I didn't have to cut or trim the bucket at all.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/fLB4wLVl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/Con2aLJl-1.jpg

Random cleaning/disassembly pics:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/YSXzwjBl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/CpRvyGml-1.jpg

In this one, you can kinda see the 1" square tube that I welded to the top of the strut rod brackets to help support the radiator. I've got some mass backed vinyl that I will attach to the top of them to pad it a bit. The radiator will be held in place with 1" rubber isolators. I got the idea from a VMF member building a 65 mustang track-only car.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/wsRVzOUl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/w0ueiQ5l-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/zckNpxql-1.jpg

I didn't want the aluminum radiator showing through the grill, so I used a thin coat of Eastwood's satin radiator paint on the face of it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/On6hWzZl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/3aKZasjl-1.jpg
And I also spritzed underhood satin black on the areas that needed touching up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/qokvbtml-1.jpg

And this.... Whoever hacked together this car after it was wrecked just welded a nut on the -outside- of the support which caused the hood latch brace to stick out farther than it should have....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/qwzj5vMl-1.jpg

And this is gonna be a tight fit. 2.5 inches from flange to hood. I'm going to have to figure something out for an air cleaner.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/4daYdJJl-1.jpg

Several days later: August 11th

Where to start....

The lift! Bendpak sent me an entire replacement power unit. It arrives in a single layer cardboard box. It's 50 pounds! The bracket on the back of the motor is bent from being shipped but serviceable. The electric switch and some spray foam packaging just loosely laid over it and the styrofoam that was supporting the tank was in pieces. I wipe everything down since it was covered in oil, mount it, hook it up and fill it, plug it in and lo and behold......NOT A DAMNED THING HAPPENED. It's a brick. I left a strongly worded voice mail and email with my sales rep. I will see how they respond tomorrow.

On to my NPD order.

The 18-pound box of brackets and fasteners arrived.... I forgot the bumper bolt kit! Crap!
Oh well, I'll order that soon. The chrome bumper guards come with the rubber cushions already. I mention that because I ordered a set. No big deal. The outer arms that I ordered stated in the description that the rubber isolators were included. Mine weren't. So, I'll mention that when I call to order the bumper bolts.

I'm so damned mad about the lift....

August 12th:
Bendpak emailed me this morning asking me to send them a video of the motor not working. Really? You want video proof of my monumental disappointment when I press that button?

After I sent the video, they asked me to open the front cover, verify that there are no loose wires, and check continuity on the Up switch. I don't know about you guys, but that sounds a lot like they're asking me to be an entry level electrician.

August 14th:

I decided to reinstall my fender extensions and finish freshening them up with new hardware, etc.
First thing to do was remove the old knockout that got left in on the assembly line. The Dremel made quick work of that.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/x1f62oXl-1.jpg

On to test fitting...the passenger side isn't bad

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/xpHxuxyl-1.jpg

The driver’s side is a mess.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/W6lKP54l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/MkM29vol-1.jpg

Both fenders need replacing as well as both extensions....and the valance and stone deflector and probably the core support and most likely both front aprons.... that’s all an issue for future me.

I repaired the missing nut in the core support crossmember with a weld nut from McMaster-Carr.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/jbYd2hol-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/5hZRy64l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/lKrGexnl-1.jpg

I also trimmed a couple of pieces of MBV and attached them to the 1" square tubing I had welded to the strut rod brackets to use for the radiator support.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/AOUYhpyl-1.jpg

With all of that done, I can finally mount the radiator.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/CiruBXPl-1.jpg

And I couldn't help myself, so I did a test fit of the refreshed grill to confirm that a blacked-out radiator looked better to me than the bare aluminum one....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/9XbBy5tl-1.jpg

To wrap it up, I drilled out a hole and mounted one of the two bulkheads I'll be using and started to run the 2/0 cable from the trunk up to the general area.
I'll pick up some MS21919 (Adel) clamps and start roughing in the final cable locations.

On the lift front.... I’m -hopeful- that bendpak will send out a second (but functional) power unit Monday so I can get back to using my lift.

August 21st:

The second replacement power unit for the lift arrived. After comparing this one to the first one they sent, I believe the first one was either a return or a sadly packed refurb.
The latest one arrived packed better and only had a bent bracket.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/SxScsEZl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/NTh35nzl-1.jpg

Everything is back up and running now. I'm sitting on two extra units now. The original one with a suspect pump and the first replacement with an electrical issue. We'll see what Bendpak wants to do with them.

I decided to start reassembling the nose after doing all the test fitting. It gave me the chance to do something I'd wanted to do since I bought the car.... replace the bent up front bumper!!
The hood alignment isn't great, I tried to sort it out a bit but with the fender/extension issues, I doubt it'll get much better.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/t99toPjl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/Fw8YmoIl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/DTZCodul-1.jpg

After all of that, I started to hang the MC so I could start checking the fit between that and the clutch MC.
Got ready to do that and found that one of the POs had cross-threaded one of the holes....
In order to fix that correctly, I pulled out the column and the pedal bracket. I'm glad I did.
I found that the stamped nut had been spun at some point. I assume it was when the cross-threading happened.
I was able to get the threads cleaned up and dragged the welder over and tacked the nut in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/7Omrm9bl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/oR0hHtPl-1.jpg

I'll need an extra set of hands to work on the hole that the clutch mc will use since it got all mangled up in the past somehow.
I decided to make progress elsewhere.

I've laid out the 2/0 welding cable that will drive the starter.
I didn't care for it laying on the wheelhouse between the quarter, so I reran it between the pinch weld and bracket. I used some old windlace to prevent the edge of the bracket rubbing against the cable.
I mounted the solenoid on the trunk bracket, cut the cable to length, and put an end on it. Now to do a zillion other things before the end of the year.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/eLZPH5Sl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/JvPt9d8l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/HcLh6Crl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/2MGhXcZl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/CgnShOYl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/NE309Vwl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Just wanted to quickly update the progress.


Put the pedal bracket back in and mounted the MC to realize that my driver's side prop valve bracket puts the valve in the same space that the clutch MC is. The passenger side bracket should arrive tomorrow. I've also had to weld up the split where the hole for the original clutch rod passed through and grind it smooth for the MDL bracket to fit correctly.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/EXK1Yish-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/7xY3ErFl-1.jpg


Decided to use an existing hole for my main power/alt connection on the firewall. The 2ga wire runs along the driver's side to the trunk similarly as the starter cable on the passenger side. Once my battery arrives today, I'll mount it and then add my fused connection to it and have power up front. I decided to move the fuse box over a little to give myself a bit more room away from the wiper motor bracket.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/GAlAEL1l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/gtbzYNal-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/CmiCklRl-1.jpg


I will likely end up using this area to mount the control box for the Dakota Digital box. I don't want to put it anywhere else on the firewall since I can't be certain where the AC evaporator will sit when I finally get around to installing AC.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/mwamKxFl-1.jpg


This is what I'm currently working on. Tying the AAW harness, Dakota Digital control box, Holley Terminator ECU, MSD 6AL, and Bowler T-56 sending unit all together in one semi-neatly hidden package..


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/GFqJKAfh-1.jpg

Once I get power routed to everything, I can start testing and re-testing my work. Oh, and I'll likely need a few firmware updates for my ECU. It's new in the box and here's the manufacture date/build tag.
Yes, that says September of 2013. Any of you Holley gurus care to wager how many updates it'll take to get it current? :confused:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/08/cjORj5hh-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Let me know if you need any help with the integration between the Holley ECU, Bowler box and DD. Hopefully you're using the DD BIM module.

Andrew

[arcane73]

Let me know if you need any help with the integration between the Holley ECU, Bowler box and DD. Hopefully you're using the DD BIM module.

Andrew

I looked at it but have not pulled the trigger. Am I setting myself up for multiple headaches?

[andrewb70]

I looked at it but have not pulled the trigger. Am I setting myself up for multiple headaches?

No, all of those parts work well together. But the Holley software has to be configured precisely according to the DD instructions for everything to work properly, especially with the speed input from the Bowler all in one box.

Andrew

[arcane73]

No, all of those parts work well together. But the Holley software has to be configured precisely according to the DD instructions for everything to work properly, especially with the speed input from the Bowler all in one box.

Andrew

Thanks. I'll know more once I get power to everything. My primary concern was making sure I get all of the firmware updates done correctly and in order. I knew there would be some signal matching work to do when it came to making everything play nice together.

I appreciate it!

[andrewb70]

Thanks. I'll know more once I get power to everything. My primary concern was making sure I get all of the firmware updates done correctly and in order. I knew there would be some signal matching work to do when it came to making everything play nice together.

I appreciate it!

Also keep me in mind for future tuning work.

Andrew

[arcane73]

I figured I'd update this again even though it has felt like I haven't done much. It's been a series of events that I had to stop what I was doing and sit back to think of the next steps.
I got the MDL clutch MC mounted and remounted the steering column. I need to get the brake MC mounted at some point and I'm considering calling ClassicTube because I've read/heard that they offer prebent stainless lines to mate up to willwood MC/prop valve combos. Haven't decided yet. I have a spool of nicopp hanging on the wall but I don't know if I want to try bending lines with the engine in place.


I have run power through the car and have all of the lights/horns functional and working correctly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/SIp8R75l-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/acI2Wwdl-1.jpg


I mounted the throttle body and put on the 14" x 3" air cleaner on a 1" drop base. There is zero clearance. This brings me to the decision of sorting out a lower drop base, running a 'cold-air' type setup, or, most likely, cutting a hole in the hood and doing a Mach 1 scoop to sort of mimic the 68 CJ look. Still undecided.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/EqPFHDRl-1.jpg


On to battery cables and mounting. I started finalizing the battery cables and mounting and decided to weld in a ground stud. I used a 3/8 weld stud and tacked it to the frame rail and ran my battery ground to that. The weld stud i used is on the left, the finished product is the one on the right. It worked out well.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/phMdFMgl-1.jpg


That allowed me to power up the ECU and check firmware. I'm way out of date which isn't a surprise seeing as the ECU was dated 9/2013. I didn't even get the touchscreen out to check it. I'll get it all mounted and update the firmware on all three after that.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/9XJio6kl-1.jpg
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/CoPtk7Dl-1.jpg


Since the EFI kit is older, there are only 3 I/O wires on it. That's easily remedied since the system can support 8 (4 input/4 output) and Holley sells the add-in wires in a kit (Holley 558-420) -thanks for the lead on that, Andrew!
Adding them was super simple. The harness is numbered 1-XX depending on the number of pins from top left to bottom right. The instructions tell you where to add which color wire.


You press the lock (white plastic tab) to release the wires while being careful not to pull any out:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/GObYLnYl-1.jpg


Pull out the white pin that fills the selected spot you need:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/yT9UIVdl-1.jpg


That leaves you a hole in which to shove the appropriately colored wire.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/iPz2MR5l-1.jpg


And lock the tab back when you're done. The blue/white wire was slotted in on connector JA, pin 12.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/6HCzAQKl-1.jpg


The last part is something I'm not proud of. I've been sitting on a CVF front accessory drive since 2019. I finally got around to installing it this weekend. I started out by test fitting the water pump and just putting regular bolts in the back to hold the backing plate on. I stopped to run into town and then came home and ate lunch. I got back to work and forgot all about the bolts in the back and cracked my timing cover as I tightened the drive bracket down. I could likely ignore it and move on, but I'd be so mad if it leaked when I first started it. That lead me to decide to order a new cover and pull it all back down to do it right since it's easier now with no fluids in it. I could likely repair the existing cover or it may not even be damaged. But if I'm pulling it off, I'm replacing it. My mistake for not paying better attention. Learn and move on. I decided to test mount the rest of the kit and discovered that my crank pulley spacer was about 1" too thick. I called CVF today and they're sending me a spacer that is for a factory balancer. The confusion came from the balancer on the car being aftermarket but a 'factory-style' replacement. They just asked that I pack the one I have back up and send it to them when I verify all is well. That works for me.
Here is how much room I'll have with the full kit on and running a shorty ford water pump:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/fx2ISswl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/16AtC9dl-1.jpg


For now, I'm waiting on parts and still chipping away at it. Here's to hoping it's running by year's end!

[jaybee]

Progress is progress, it must feel good.

[arcane73]

Progress is progress, it must feel good.

It does. I try to slow down from time to time and look at what -little- i have left to do to actually get it to fire off.
There's not a lot in the grand scheme of things. I hope to run my fuel line this weekend and sort out the timing cover issue. But beyond that, it's a bunch of manageable stuff as long as I take it in stages.

[chunger]

it's a bunch of manageable stuff as long as I take it in stages.

That right there is the key to keep making progress on your projects. I've seen waaaay to many where the fella will get over excited and try to do too much, all at once. Most of these projects stall out. They key to keep things in perspective and break it down into manageable chunks.

[andrewb70]

Nice progress.

Andrew

[arcane73]

This weekend was a short one as far as working on the car went. Sinus headache for two days and general frustrations led me to doing very little in the garage.


I received the replacement timing cover from amazon....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/HR8lCDWl-1.jpg

Yeah....thanks, amazon....someone else had returned it at some point with the same issue....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/hG7yYKrl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/FAtPiCBl-1.jpg

I did get the timing cover off of the engine after pulling everything back off and i certainly did a number on it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/J3X39Uah-1.jpg

I was as careful as possible but the corners of the timing cover that mated to the oil pan and block had a spot of gray rtv on them. A couple of layers of gasket tore when i removed the cover.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/roWOUFOh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/ptfuuzph-1.jpg

I will likely just do the same when i reassemble this. A dab of ultra-gray in the corners of the pan/block, around the front pan seal and a tiny bit around the water ports and reassemble.

I also realized that the cover that was on the engine did not have the dowels in it. Those are ordered as well.


I made an attempt to get started on running my fuel line, but ended up needing a few different an fittings than what i had on hand.

Another summit order that will arrive on the same day that the (hopefully correct) timing cover does and I'll get back to it this weekend.

[arcane73]

Made some forward progress. Got the new timing cover on and the front accessories remounted. Don't have the radiator back in yet but I have all next week off from work so I'll likely work on the car off and on during that time.


New cover:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/myknKNeh-1.jpg


Making sure it's all clean.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/iEIzfunh-1.jpg



So many gaskets...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/4NOTTO4h-1.jpg


Here's another irritation. This water neck was not cheap. It happened as I was tightening it down. I was careful to make sure everything was in the right place and I didn't go crazy on it. It's a 90* neck and after this happened, I did some thinking and believe I may end up going with a 45* neck instead. Either way, I'm not happy about it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/4VZnp49h-1.jpg


Moved to the rear and started roughing in the fuel line. I have the short piece from the pump to the bulkhead finished and I've got the run forward laid in where I want it to live. I'm running it along the pinch weld on the passenger side and will need another 90* bulkhead to go from the inner fender to the engine. I'll likely put in another order of parts sometime next week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/Ln1wmQ3h-1.jpg


I kept trying to decide on a way to address the hood clearance issue.....I picked up this on ebay for a good deal and I think this may be the route I take.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/SZ63rb8h-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/torIzibh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/8uyhF4zh-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Just a quick thing I wanted to do after work. The 351 badges on the scoop are original and covered in the same green paint that the whole scoop is. So a very quick dip in lacquer thinner immediately got rid of the green paint.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/dWTZKGih-1.jpg


The downside is that one of the badges had started to separate and the thinner helped it along. No big deal, really. I'll get some badge adhesive or super glue, etc to re-affix it and then get some paint and a tiny brush to fill the faded black areas of the badges back in.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/qlQ6pMyh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/kg8wCV1h-1.jpg


I mean, if I'm going to keep the scoop, I may as well try to make it as presentable as the rest of the car....;)


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/WMkMI9Qh-1.jpg

[chunger]

Moved to the rear and started roughing in the fuel line. I have the short piece from the pump to the bulkhead finished and I've got the run forward laid in where I want it to live. I'm running it along the pinch weld on the passenger side and will need another 90* bulkhead to go from the inner fender to the engine. I'll likely put in another order of parts sometime next week.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/09/Ln1wmQ3h-1.jpg




Could you show more of your battery wiring? I'm thinking of also moving the battery to the trunk and I'd like to see what you did here. Did you relocate the solenoid to the trunk and extend the wires? I see two fat red cable running forward. Assume one is the charge wire from the alternator (3g?) and the other runs to the starter, is this right?

[arcane73]

Could you show more of your battery wiring? I'm thinking of also moving the battery to the trunk and I'd like to see what you did here. Did you relocate the solenoid to the trunk and extend the wires? I see two fat red cable running forward. Assume one is the charge wire from the alternator (3g?) and the other runs to the starter, is this right?

Sure thing. I'll take some more pics in the morning and post them here. But you're mostly correct, I did 2/0ga from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter and then a separate 2ga fused from battery to bulkhead on the firewall for power to everything else.

[arcane73]

Could you show more of your battery wiring? I'm thinking of also moving the battery to the trunk and I'd like to see what you did here. Did you relocate the solenoid to the trunk and extend the wires? I see two fat red cable running forward. Assume one is the charge wire from the alternator (3g?) and the other runs to the starter, is this right?

Ok. Battery location and #1 goes to starter via a bulkhead on the passenger side of the firewall. #2 is the fused feed to the main power to the engine compartment and interior. the ground cable is attached to a weld-in stud on the trunk floor to the right of the battery. The loomed wires coming out of the quarter and sitting along the bottom of the battery are the efi feeds.

202604

Here you can see the 2ga wire leaving the fuse and it runs up the driver's side rocker to a bulkhead just above the master cylinder. I'm actually in the process now of running the extended starter solenoid wire. It ran down the passenger rocker and will be zip tied to the 2ga primary wire that is held in with clamps to the bottom of the package tray.

202605

I've circled the 'starter' bulkhead. The 2/0 starter cable and the dedicated + and - feed for the efi run along the rocker channel in the bottom of the pic.

202606

Here's a rough idea of how the alt wire will be ran. The bulkhead is circled on the firewall. That will be my primary feed for the alternator and anything else in the engine bay that needs 12v constant. I'll measure and put proper terminals on the wire once I get closer to cleaning up all of the other wiring.

202607

[chunger]

Wow, thanks so much, this is GREAT info. I assume you're also going to run grounds from the engine to the front frame rail to complete the loop? You must be running a traditional starter, I'm running a PMGR starter, so would have to make some changes accordingly. Is that ground stud something other than just a bolt welded in place?

I hadn't even thought of moving the main power lead to a stud on the firewall, but thats a GREAT idea!

[arcane73]

Wow, thanks so much, this is GREAT info. I assume you're also going to run grounds from the engine to the front frame rail to complete the loop? You must be running a traditional starter, I'm running a PMGR starter, so would have to make some changes accordingly. Is that ground stud something other than just a bolt welded in place?

I hadn't even thought of moving the main power lead to a stud on the firewall, but thats a GREAT idea!

Happy to help!
I will be going nuts when it comes to grounds. I'll run one from front rail to engine, core support, and radiator. I haven't bought a starter yet. If i go with a pmgr, I'll likely run a second activation wire to the solenoid on the starter to prevent run-on. I could probably even piggy-back from the existing one under the dash. The ground stud is actually a weld stud. I found them on McMaster Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/weld-studs/
And having the main power lug on the firewall makes so many things easier. Inside and out!

[arcane73]

I've decided to finish work with parts that I have on hand before ordering anything new. That includes things like working on getting the last of the fuel system done and wiring up the electric fans, msd, fuel pump and starter circuits. I went ahead and tackled the fuel lines and pump wiring and starter circuit. I'll jinx myself by saying this, but I should be done running wires through to the trunk.


Starting from the back.


From trunk bulkhead over the axle and down to the pinch weld.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/LRdAvwbl-1.jpg


Along the passenger side pinch weld.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/VVZZKRjl-1.jpg


Moving over the floor through the torque box. I tried to keep the transition from the outer edge of the car to the inner rail out of the open as much as I could here. It's pretty well protected by the torque box.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/nFYIundl-1.jpg


I used an existing hole in the inner fender for a bulkhead into the engine bay.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/aABJodyl-1.jpg


I didn't like how close it left the fuel line to the exhaust, though.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/Gu8EMvSl-1.jpg


I decided to move the bulkhead to this area since I could do it without too much trouble.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/tGuFgcPl-1.jpg


End result. The last leg of the line is away from the exhaust and out of the way of the eventual ac/heater lines.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/nwAbFcTl-1.jpg


And here is the shot from inside the trunk. Pump and sending unit are wired in. I have the pump on a relay and fuse that is mounted to the package tray. The sending unit is wired in with the AAW wire that runs up front. I'll change the settings in the gauges to accept the chevy sending unit range so the fuel gauge will read correctly.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/PPmrH8Vl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Today was spent roughing in the wiring for the gauges, getting the front drive accessories sorted out, and making my 'universal' oil dipstick work. Not a lot of photos taken of anything but I did try to capture the first power up of the gauges.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqtB6p6Cle2f0kOF685WmOom5x2n?e=GPry6U

Tomorrow i'll call Holley and see what needs to happen to get my distributor and MSD tied into the ecu so i can allow it to control the timing. I would rather not make a mess of any of the expensive parts before talking to someone that answers questions like those for a living.

[Steve68]

Do you have the MDL clutch slave bleed and functioning ???

I just had to redo a kit in a 68 that I'm working on, had to remove the lock washer from the stud, clutch fork was not centered, and I had to move the reservoir to the firewall from the fender well,

[arcane73]

Do you have the MDL clutch slave bleed and functioning ???

I just had to redo a kit in a 68 that I'm working on, had to remove the lock washer from the stud, clutch fork was not centered, and I had to move the reservoir to the firewall from the fender well,

No, I'm running a Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing on mine and not the MDL slave.

[Steve68]

should have been spelt "bled"

Good to know, If I would have built it probably would have done the same,

[arcane73]

More wiring! Roughed in and tested the fans. They're powered by relays that will be triggered by a (-) trigger from the ecu. I also decided to cut open my ecu harness and add a few things that are in the newer harnesses but not mine. I also found out that I can't use my Dakota Digital BMI in conjuction with the Holley touchscreen. Kinda sucks since I bought the touchscreen a couple of years ago to upgrade from the handheld unit. I'll just put it up for sale and go about my day.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/LmyXiKhh-1.jpg


Fan wiring that will get routed and cleaned up later.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/JHOc8yqh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/J3l8gMsh-1.jpg


The box of connectors and wires that I ordered to update my harness. And, of course, I forgot a couple of things. I'll probably finish this up next weekend.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/RApXC0jh-1.jpg


Start at the beginning.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/D7OJbnoh-1.jpg


And then things escalate.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/CxgQbY7h-1.jpg


This is the additional connector that I added for the extra input/outputs. The older harnesses like mine only had 3 total and the newer ones have 8.

Start by stripping the ends and adding the seals.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/ZpDSOjLh-1.jpg


Add correct terminal for your connector and crimp.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/upoCx2sh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/2ejFmOKh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/KpsoKdbh-1.jpg


Insert the completed pins into the connector. Be sure to seal up any ports that you're not using to keep junk out of the connector. Slide the lock onto the back when you're done.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/YLGCanFh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/Z38YoIgh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/R1dYUU9h-1.jpg


Another thing I added was an oil pressure connection. I'll work on getting that fed into the ecu later. I also added a single connector so I could put all of the loose wires in one location (+12, ground, 12 trigger, fuel pump trigger). Wrapped it all back up and just waiting on a few pieces to show up so I can finish it up. Getting closer to cranking this pile!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/cHOxzoth-1.jpg

[slazisme]

Nice job on the Delphi connectors, having the right tools for Metripack and Weatherpack connectors certainly makes the job alot easier. Here are a few things that I added when wiring my 1st gen conversion in case you're interested.
Some terminal covers for the positive cabling, I didn't like the live wires being exposed.
Have a cover for the junction panel that I'm going to cover up.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-terminal-boots
202980

Cheapo plastic electrical box with cover for the relays.
202981

Handy plastic clips for attaching wire loom with zip ties.
202982

[arcane73]

Nice job on the Delphi connectors, having the right tools for Metripack and Weatherpack connectors certainly makes the job alot easier. Here are a few things that I added when wiring my 1st gen conversion in case you're interested.
Some terminal covers for the positive cabling, I didn't like the live wires being exposed.
Have a cover for the junction panel that I'm going to cover up.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-terminal-boots
202980

Cheapo plastic electrical box with cover for the relays.
202981

Handy plastic clips for attaching wire loom with zip ties.
202982

Thanks! I will go in and clean a lot of things up once I get it running. I tend to leave everything easily accessible for a short while to make any troubleshooting a bit easier.
I will certainly borrow from those ideas, though!

[arcane73]

The last order of connectors arrived along with my break-in oil and some other pieces. I got the harness in and powered up the ecu and flashed it without issue. I also picked up some zip tie clips that should help me keep all of this wiring in place. I pulled the trigger on stainless pre-bent lines from Classic Tube. I called with the specifics of my build last Thursday and they'll arrive tomorrow. I also spent some time touching up the black on my gas cap. I'll likely do the same to the emblems later. Today was spent running to local auto parts places looking for hoses. I bent up some wire hangers to follow the general route I'd need. I was able to find everything I needed. Picture dump incoming!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/tpozQcWl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/mmd7vpyl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/c8dAEKpl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/aAARNrXl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/O6z0faQl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/PwSzttJl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/XiXLv54l-1.jpg


On the brake side of things. I switched my prop valve to the passenger side of my MC. I couldn't use the pre-bent front line because it interfered with the valve cover. So I ran a nicopp line under the MC to the other side.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/CDkIggQl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/ESPQRZcl-1.jpg


I also picked up an ACP thermostat housing. It seems well built.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/lMxdT5Ul-1.jpg


On the hose side of things. I was going to use a 69 Bronco upper hose but it was a bit short and I didn't like the look of it stretched.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/LFTbtl9l-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/izh0gXLl-1.jpg


The 2nd option turned out a bit better. It's the lower hose from a (01-07) Toyota Sequoia with a 4.7L. The length and bends were close. I had to cut the center and turn the hose about 90* to make everything line up. I've ordered some aluminum tubing from Speedway to tie the two pieces back together.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/cJM3vC2l-1.jpg


The lower was a bit easier. It's from a 94-04 V6 Mustang.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/10/5ILH8Pol-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Lots of excellent progress!

Andrew

[arcane73]

Has it really been 3 weeks? Updates!

Over the past few weeks, I've made some progress. The stainless pre-bent lines from classic tube arrived. I spoke to them a few times prior to ordering and was always told that they couldn't promise the lines would be perfect, given my custom application. They were close to perfect in all of the areas that were still stock. But I had to get creative when it came to the Wilwood attachments. I also had to run out to Speedway Motors and pick up some line fittings. No big deal. I used that chance to swing by a buddy's place and pick up his Tefba filter that will live in my system for a short while. Got the brake lines bled and clutch lines ran and bled. I also reinstalled my fuel cap. I had decided a long time ago to weld up the holes and redrill them since a previous owner had used drywall screws to make an attempt to replace missing hardware.....I sorted out my throttle linkage, ordered, picked up, and installed my driveshaft. Beaned myself in the face during that process....good times. Now I'm getting close to cranking it....soon...ish. Over the Thanksgiving holiday, I'll likely lay out the exhaust and get an idea of what I'm missing needing and work with my Chevelle buddy to get the ball rolling. Bring on the photodump!


Coolant lines sorted and filter installed. I'll clamp everything when I'm ready to put water in.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/onSVNCnl-1.jpg


Looks pretty good for pre-bent stainless.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/8pr4Uu9l-1.jpg


Okay....this will need some work.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/tt71sp9l-1.jpg


Getting better...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/O8l03eQl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/WPLbjODl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/yBT8sIYl-1.jpg


The brake pedal sat -way- high...around 8" from the floor.

The factory manual says 7 to 6 inches. I had to trim the brake rod on the wilwood to give me enough adjustment.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/icvCvRSl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/EwcoZgIl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/NtHd08xl-1.jpg


Time to bleed everything came and I made a mess because I was doing a lot of this solo.

I also might have -maybe- let the rears gravity bleed because I forgot to tighten a line.....


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/paHT0BIl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/WIoFs4Jl-1.jpg


Throttle pedal and stuff came in. I had to twist the rod a bit to get the pedal to sit the way I liked. The pic is before. I also may remove the clutch pedal and twist it back 'straight'.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/k8ivwFql-1.jpg


Safety wire passes tech, right?


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/VmbLN6ml-1.jpg


Getting ready to fill goobered-up holes and reinstalling the cap.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/gJAiR2Kl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/ScXP29ql-1.jpg


Driveshaft in! I had it built locally by AZ Driveshaft. 3.5" DOM steel with 1350 solid ujoints on both ends using my Sonnax slip yoke. Ignore the ugly welds on the floors, please.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/vQrAWxkl-1.jpg


Still haven't cut the hood. I haven't decided what route to take on that. Lots of debate happening.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/zdMPHHgh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/2PRtJRxh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/Zwtspy0h-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/LRJKACJh-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Kris,

You'll be ready to make noise in no time!!!

Andrew

[chunger]

I believe they sell a adjustable rod for the brake pedal to let you set the height - you addressed it pretty much the same way.

Interesting about your Tebfa filter. Seems pretty similar in concept to the Gano filter I run in my rad hose. Gano is clear, so easy to observe when it catches junk, but I'm sure either is a decent solution to keep the radiator tubes from clogging.

[arcane73]

I believe they sell a adjustable rod for the brake pedal to let you set the height - you addressed it pretty much the same way.

Interesting about your Tebfa filter. Seems pretty similar in concept to the Gano filter I run in my rad hose. Gano is clear, so easy to observe when it catches junk, but I'm sure either is a decent solution to keep the radiator tubes from clogging.

This rod was adjustable. I had it adjusted as far in as it would go but it was still too long, so out came the hacksaw to shorten it to get it where i needed it. I thought it was kind of odd seeing as it was a mustang specific kit, but you know how things go with old cars and new parts.

And I'd heard about the Tefba filters from a bunch of the british car guys that used to come into an import shop that I worked at. I mainly added it to make sure that the engine didn't dump any of the crap that it may or may not have left in the block into my new clean radiator. I'll likely run it for a few oil changes and remove it once it remains clean.

[arcane73]

The latest is waiting on a spot to get in to my buddy's shop to get the exhaust done. This leaves me with a slight dilemma. I haven't fully decided on what mufflers I want.

I have Black Widows that I purchased a couple of years ago. I had planned to run those with 2 additional resonators or small bullet mufflers to cut the volume down a bit more. But upon further review, there's no real room for additional -anything- it seems. So the current plan is to run the setup i have and decide later when it's on the road. The system will be 2.5" with a x-pipe and two BW venom 250s into tailpipes snaked through the panhard bar and exit below the valance.


Everything in it's approximate location.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/5liTLGNh-1.jpg


The summit bullet mufflers that I had looked at using are 20" long and 4" thick. There's no good place under the floor before the mufflers to put them. And not really room beside the fuel tank to run them either.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/MsXA0T3h-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/jIlSBcgh-1.jpg


Either way, I'll figure something out at some point. Meanwhile, here's what I'll be working with to try and get tailpipes over the axle and through the panhard....a whole pile of bends to cut up!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/11/A6E7upFh-1.jpg

[arcane73]

I've been looking for other things to do while waiting on a chance to get my exhaust done. Installing the MMI strut tower brace and the cowl reinforcement has been something I've been putting off, so I decided to tackle that. I temporarily installed the distributor (still has the steel gear on it) to make sure that I could get it in and out easily with the brace in. Once I knew that I had enough room, I pulled the hood and got started.


Everything seems to fit well enough.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/w52JYtJh-1.jpg


The bolts line up well enough without the reinforcement in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/FmX8tQrh-1.jpg


But less so with the reinforcement.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/LXcsPRyh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/8C3CPMVh-1.jpg


So, upon getting grief from a friend for trying to take the lazy route, I dropped the idea of installing the brace without the reinforcement and welded up the factory holes to make my own so i could get everything to line up better.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/1b6f7YMh-1.jpg


Much better.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/GC7tcA1h-1.jpg


And here we are. Brace installed, reinforcement welded in and squirted black. I even adjusted the hood when i reinstalled it.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2022/12/PoNBW8zh-1.jpg

[arcane73]

It's been a few weeks and I've been slacking on giving updates. Not a lot has happened, really. But here's the latest.

I needed to make some adjustments to the oil pan and Z-Ray crossmember to open up some space. Again, my engine is sitting lower and back and to the right. This caused a bit of interference and needed to be addressed. I dimpled the pan where the steering bumped it and cut the crossmember and re-welded it lower and clocked back a little.
I made a template to give me the rough outline of what I'd need to end up with. Below are a few pics of the process. I need to get a pic of the finished crossmember.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/P5kl0OIh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/CVVnGo3h-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/3RfM8gZh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/pURDTrLh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/3yhDryqh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/DRndtYKh-1.jpg

I -finally- was able to squeeze into a spot at my friend's shop to get my exhaust done. He loaned me his truck and trailer and off it goes!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/bO4YouHh-1.jpg

Once we got to looking at clearances and whatnot, the plan of an X-pipe with tailpipes out the back to the valance and additional bullet mufflers along with the black widows to tone things down a bit seemed to become a bit more complicated. My JBA headers hang -real- low and the panhard bar left very little room for 2.5" tailpipes. After much debate, side exit exhaust was decided upon 'for now' so i could get this turd on the road. I may revisit headers at a later date along with other changes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/oCTRCWVh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/u2H3dihh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/uanGW7fh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/JeeKAlKh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/90bS1IXh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/RQiuMCzh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/2SIgjQ2h-1.jpg

The bullet mufflers were added, in theory, to help tone things down a bit. I may or may not run at a local autocross track that has a 96db sound check and thought it best to try to address that early.

One last thing we did while the car was still there was discuss the hood clearance issues. I've ordered a Performer RPM intake to replace the Victor Jr. to help with the hood clearance but that still didn't give me the room I wanted for the air cleaner. I had already purchased a 69 Mach 1 scoop from ebay, so I gave the all-clear and Mike opened up the hood. Before anyone flips out, it was a repop hood with a dent in the center of the cutout. No big loss. The RPM will provide enough room to run a drop-base cleaner and turn signal hood if I choose to later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/65SEyS5h-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/DM0HToRh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/wNgtpz6h-1.jpg

One thing that I wanted to address prior to starting up the car (which hopefully will be soon-ish) was to protect the fuel line from heat since the side exhaust was now a thing. I have plenty of space between the line and the tip but since you can't be too careful, I wrapped a long section with DEI's fuel line sleeve and capped that off with their Cool Tape.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/VT9wBKdh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/bFVq5fph-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/ck6jYm2h-1.jpg

To wrap this up, I had already decided to take down some more of the divider wall in the garage at home. There is still about 4' of it that I would like to remove. Oh, and I finally took the protective film off of the fuel tank.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/5bRyfEIh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/EQ3GXdYh-1.jpg

The new intake should arrive this week so I'll likely work on getting that swapped out. I've completed a few other things in the background that needed to be checked off. I think it's time to write my short list on the white board and start striking those items off to get ready to fire this pile up!

[andrewb70]

Awesome progress! I bet that exhaust is going to sound good!

Andrew

[arcane73]

Awesome progress! I bet that exhaust is going to sound good!

Andrew

I'm hoping to find out in the next couple of weeks!

Adding pics of the changes made to the crossmember that I bought from ZRay on the VMF.

Front of jack pad was removed before I had decided to cut the cross bar and drop and turn it back. Now that I know everything clears, I can pull it back off, move the pad, clean up the welds, and then scuff and repaint it.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/NL29mcPh-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/01/o4JEZsph-1.jpg

[andrewb70]

Kris,

It would be good for me to be logged in on first start. That way you can be looking for fluid leaks while I keep the engine happy.

Andrew

[arcane73]

Speaking of leaks.....I found one small one behind the water pump and another larger one...um...here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/ZokKPkih-1.jpg

Tools were thrown as well as more than a few obscenities. Oh well, Tore the water pump back off to try and address the leak behind it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/6wRkDaSh-1.jpg?1

To switch focus, I decided to mount the scoop to get an idea how it would look. I will be using it but decided to jazz it up temporarily to try something out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/1I1GZoRh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/VzxV70Sh-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/NSQyRW0h-1.jpg

I'll eventually paint a single stripe down the hood to mimic the 68 CJ stripe. In the meantime, I'm waiting on parts and other stuff to make my block less like a sieve and more like an engine.

[Threepointtwo]

Getting close and looking great.

[arcane73]

Where to start....

I pulled the front cover off to address a leak at the water pump while I was replacing the blown out freeze plug. I ordered a pressure tester and rechecked everything once it was back together. No leaks! Moving on to the next thing.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/02/6wRkDaSh-1.jpg?1

I tried to take the car out after fixing the blown out freeze plug only to have it pop, spit, and shut down 3/4 mile from the house. With nobody available to assist, I was lucky enough to catch a wrecker in the same parking lot (he was on a grocery run) and he hooked it up and took it home for me for $50. I gave the man $75 to show my thanks and then set about to figure out wtf was going on with my junk. The plugs were super fouled and the exhaust pipe was incredibly sooty, so I can guess that it was running way too rich. I tried to pick up 8 fresh plugs from autozone but realized when i got back home that i got shorted one. The plugs didn't help and the car still wanted to backfire and pop and spit and there was fuel sitting in the bottom of the intake. I took a break from the non-running issues and started replacing the door seals.

All of that was over the last few weekends.
This weekend: My junk runs again!
I found that the screw that holds the 2 piece adjustable rotor had backed out some and the rotor was able to move which allowed the timing to jump wildly. After this being the 4th time I've had to do something with, or because of, the distributor, I ordered a replacement. I went with a simpler setup and got an MSD/Holley sniper hyperspark distributor. It's got a cast gear, so I didn't need to change it out. I bought the pigtail that allows it to plug directly into my existing wiring. It has a clear cap that makes setting the reference angle super easy. It doesn't have dual sync but I don't see myself trying out a sequential efi setup anytime soon. I'm over trying to make the pro-billet one work for me. I'll sell it for half of what they go for and make someone else very happy.
Anyway, while i had it all down, I decided to recheck the preload and went from 1/2 to 3/4 turn to address some of the noise from the valvetrain a little. The builder told me he went 1/2 and I spoke to Howard's Cams and they said this setup liked things a little heavier and suggested 3/4 turn. After that, I stabbed the distributor, set the timing, and took it out for a drive. No issues! Now to keep doing all of the -other- stuff I've been meaning to do. Like put some miles on it, finish replacing seals, maybe do AC before summer gets here, get the alignment set correctly, paint the stripe on the hood, etc, etc, etc.

I had to have this sticker.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/moTJzYJh-1.jpg

The reference angle 'cap' that came with the distributor.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/M868qV8h-1.jpg

Here are two short clips. Both are from several weekends ago. One is the car at idle and the other was its first trip out of the driveway and down to the gas station.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqtB6p6Cle2f0l2f411RebegVwLm?e=UAbse6

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqtB6p6Cle2f0l-Uxa1nkbtCqVX9?e=UQlfbX


(https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqtB6p6Cle2f0l-Uxa1nkbtCqVX9?e=UQlfbX)

[chunger]

Sorry, if I missed it, what was the old disty setup?

Car sounds really good!

[arcane73]

Sorry, if I missed it, what was the old disty setup?

Car sounds really good!


Thanks! I'm not 100% satisfied with it and may change it all up in the future. The 'old' dist is https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/distributors/cam_sync/parts/2362 I may have put....10 miles? on it.

[chunger]

Offtaa. That's not cheap. I'm hearing more and more about the decling quality of Holley FI products. Between this disty and the sniper, it seems that they need to get a line on their QC process. This was one of the reasons I went with Edelbrock for FI on my stroker. Hats off to you sir - you definitely have patience working through these issues.

[arcane73]

In the latest news, I've been out of the garage for a couple of weeks but I'm slowly getting back to it. I drove the car again a short distance and made note of the things that I wanted to address. First off, I wanted to add a catch can to the radiator. The main reason for this is because I have a shop cat and I don't want the car to burp or drool one day and the cat to find the green puddle interesting. It's more for peace of mind for me and safety for the fuzzy knucklehead. Second thing I wanted to address is the power steering pump. It was a little noisy after my short drive and I wanted to get ahead of any issues that may arise. I know the steering box is getting hot because the header is incredibly close. I opted to put a heat shield over the box as well as lower the pressure and flow from the pump since I found that the Borgeson box prefers both lower than what the pump is supplying. I will also be adding a ps cooler.


Not all of my parts have arrived yet. I'm waiting on the pressure and flow valves to arrive today. I'll likely knock that out by the weekend and post updates then.


The catch can is from Summit. I wanted something better than the tiny inlet on it so I cut off the existing one and tapped it for a 1/8npt elbow. After that was done, I mounted it to the passenger's side of the radiation near the cap.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/4AV30jRl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/LgvQk8Ql-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/BNFz4l1l-1.jpg


Here is the shielding material I got from DEI. It is good to 1400 degrees so should be fine for what I'm doing. I roughly attached it to the steering box with stainless zip ties.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/4emSrqtl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/pp0AVbTl-1.jpg


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/03/cEFiZOul-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Last weekend I decided to replace the fitting and shim the flow valve in the PS pump. This will bring the output of the pump to the levels of pressure and flow that the Borgeson box prefers. The pump specs list 1400 psi @ 2.5 - 3 GPM and the box lists optimal specs at 1100-1250 psi and 1450 max @ 2 - 2.5 GPM. I may be overthinking all of this but that's what I do.
I pulled the fitting that came with the pump out and used the shim kit from borgeson to lower the pump pressure. I then reassembled the valve and replaced the fitting with a lower flow one that has a male -6 output. I didn't like having a fitting adapter in line that could introduce one more leak point, so the one-piece fitting was chosen. After all of that was done, I reinstalled the pump. Now I just have to reinstall my lines, mount and plumb the cooler and fill and bleed the system. In theory!

Borgeson's pressure kit includes the clamp for the pressure valve to prevent damage to the valve while holding it steady in a vice. It also has the shims needed to raise/lower the pressure. Just follow the instructions to choose the appropriate number of shims under the screened bolt to reach your target pressure.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/FUFLpBNl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/MvpIIZRl-1.jpg

This weekend I finished adding my power steering cooler and hooking all the lines back up and everything seems to be all good again. A buddy (66 coyote-swapped mustang) kept pushing me to go out and get some shakedown miles with him so Sunday was shakedown day.
He drive about 30 miles to my place and then we drove out to a nearby lake to put a few miles on my junk. Neither of us thought about how crazy the traffic would be. It was still a nice drive and neither car had any issues. We poked around on the crowded twisty roads before heading back to my house to give both cars the once-over. Progress!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/0mu8DeOl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/h5vxzBUl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/04/71hauuzl-1.jpg

[chunger]

Nicely done. Progress is progress.

[arcane73]

It's been a minute!

Let's see. A quick recap of the past 6 months: For the sake of making this easier, I'll copy/paste from my build thread from the VMF.

April 2023:
I messed with the alignment a bit. Ordered turn plates and a hub adapter to help dial everything in. Got confirmation this morning that my Dyno-day will be May 1st at 9am. I guess I need to get about 400 more shakedown miles on this pile before then!

I was out at AMP saturday to watch the SCCA guys fling cars around. I left my place early-ish and stopped by to wake up a buddy and we drove out. No real issues to speak of with the trip. I was able to get out there and back and add around 100+ miles to the clock. I spent Sunday messing with the alignment more and ordering parts to start sealing up my interior and prep for dyno day.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/pPGv6mgl-1.jpg

Pre-Saturday drive: I checked the Tefba filter and found some junk in it. Looks like edges of gaskets that were in the flow path and got softened up and broke free. I've seen no coolant leaks aside from a tiny bit of seeping around the thermostat housing. I'll keep an eye on it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/LYTqu8Rl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/EjUKfzjl-1.jpg

Saturday on the way home, the I-10 and 202 split was a mess. I stopped off at work to refill my water bottle and stretch my legs for a minute.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/5qgRWobl-1.jpg

Sunday, I got to work trying to dial in the alignment. I'm using a digital Intercomp caster/camber gauge that a friend brought over. I picked up one of their hub adapters to mount it directly to my spindle.
Test fit. I took all of the measurements with the cotter pin and nut retainer off.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/WkMScOQl-1.jpg

I'll end up having to shim the UCA to get caster where I want it. I was only able to get +2* caster before i ran out of room with the front of the tire and the fender on turns. I have shims ordered and they should get here Tuesday.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/eo4EPZRl-1.jpg



I buckled to peer pressure. I blame my friend, Dan.

This was a dyno day at a friend of a friend's place on sunday. Aside from our two classics, there were 5 foxbody ltd wagons, and the homeowner's 800 hp lx coupe, his early bronco, his wife's yellow gt seen behind mine, etc, etc. The guy in the vid on the right has one of the wagons. It's green with qcumber on the tag and powered by a turbo'd 5.0. There was quite a showing of people. The neighbors probably loved it.

With no tuning at all, and the EFI still in learning mode: 375hp @ 5400 and 410 ft lb @ 4200. It'll be fun to see what next week's tuning session will bring.

https://youtu.be/_rO49RyDi_Q

May 2023:

Bleh. Tune day was yesterday. I spent the weekend going over a few things and whatnot. I changed the oil and plugs. While changing the oil, I found that my pan gasket is drooling. Decided to put that on the list to replace. In the process of changing the plugs, I managed to rip the plug boot on the number 2 cylinder. I had to rummage around in Autozone trying to find a single wire that would work well enough to get to the tuner and make it through the day. Got that sorted out and chose to try to find something that would be a bit more relaxing, so I decided to install my shift boot and bezel. I also started to line the inside of the firewall with 1/2" Dynaliner as well as plug the unused holes.
Got ready to crank the car after the oil and plug change and noticed my courtesy lights weren't on. In trying to figure that out, I found blown fuses for the hazards/stop/courtesy lights. Great. I pulled the steering wheel to make sure there wasn't anything going on with the signal switch. I found that the horn contact rings on my pricey grant hub weren't centered correctly and one had started to peel off. More great news. Problem to address later. In the end, I found that my third brake light wire had been pinched in the trunk and was causing the short. Easy fix.

I get to the tuner on time, drop off the car and head home. The slot was from 9 to 1. I get a call a bit after 12 with 'good news or bad news first?'........
Good News: The tune is completed. The engine is dialed in and healthy but I was a little disappointed with the final numbers. After running hard all day getting tuned: 365hp @ 5200 and 406lbft @ 4000.
Bad News: the engine spit out another freeze plug on the last pull......That's 2nd of 6 to let go. I called the builder, raising the question to him as to 'why?' and maybe a little bit of hell during the call.

The long and short. The car is home. Sitting ignored in the garage until I feel like pulling the engine. I don't trust the other plugs, so I will replace them all. I'll replace the pan gasket while it's out.

At least this looks nice.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/7e05JMrl-1.jpg

This was more than a bit irritating to find.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/N5lEgP7l-1.jpg

Not at all pleased about this. The dirty spot on the boot is from my grubby finger admiring the split. The missing boot was used on the temp replacement wire from autozone. I have replacement ends arriving today. I'm sure I'll get right on that.....
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/WaUDFpzl-1.jpg

There isn't enough profanity to describe my displeasure.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/IXMvbCql-1.jpg

And here's an expensive piece of paper with a visual representation of my efforts.
210076

Technically, it's close to what the builder estimated when we were going over the build. He was estimating 425ish hp and 450ish lbft torque at the flywheel. That would roughly equate to the numbers I got if you subscribe to the 15% loss from flywheel to rear wheels theorycrafting.

I've decided to go ahead and pull the engine and replace them all. I don't want it to strand me. I'll also do a combustion gas test when it's all back together for added piece of mind. And it's still a riot to drive when you stomp on the gas, so I'll be ok with my numbers....for now!

[arcane73]

May 2023:

Yesterday, the 66 coyote friend offered me his truck, hoist and engine stand. He only lives about 10 minutes from the office, so I had my boss drop me off in the work car and I picked everything up and headed back to work. I convinced my boss that it was an incredibly slow friday and that I'd be happy to drop him off on my way home (it wasn't hard to do since his grandkids where in town) He agreed and we got out of work at 1. I got home and started prepping to pull the engine.

Saturday morning! Took my time getting everything ready. Stopped for lunch and then got back to it. The engine is out and ready to go on the stand. I had to run out and pick up a socket for the flywheel bolts. Apparently, I no longer have the 1/2 drive 3/4 12 point socket that I thought I did. Anyway, I'm starting a list of things I'd like to address while the engine is (back) out. Wiring cleanup, shock tower reinforcements, extra heat control under the floor, and some plug boot protectors. Anyway, progress! I'm trying to stay positive about having to pull out the engine.

This happened while on the dyno. I'll be investing in boot protectors.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/3fvyf6Gl-1.jpg

I went back and forth about the pricey Mac's pivot plate. I ended up getting one and I'm pleased with it. It made getting the engine out easier. We'll have to see how well it does going back in.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/ihNbqTsl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/2I0Jsstl-1.jpg

I plan on reinforcing the shock towers. I'm not sure how much of a gap is normal, but I'll adjust mine with a hammer to close them up before welding.

Passenger side:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/nfM81grl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/dQTkdgNl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/WKGedHJl-1.jpg

Driver side:

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/1gFySlUl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/X2jgDpbl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/w52VB3bl-1.jpg


I'm going to rename this project: "While I'm here...."

I was working on replacing the freeze plugs and cleaning up old oil pan gasket material from the block surface this Sunday. As I was scraping gasket off, I thought I caught a glimpse of a piece of gasket fall into the timing cover. Great. Get the flashlight and look around, don't see anything. Look around on the floor under the engine, don't see anything. Look in the block, don't see anything. Get my inspection camera and laptop out, don't see anything. I stop for lunch and it kept nagging at me. So I place an order for a timing cover set and pull the cover. No gasket piece behind the cover....oh well, I've got timing cover and water pump gaskets on the way. I also remembered that I wanted to replace the thermostat gasket. That stuff will arrive Tuesday. Once it all gets here, I'll try to finish buttoning up the engine. I still haven't reinforced the shock towers or done anything in the engine bay yet. I'll get there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/lobscoUl-1.jpg

Spent a bit of time over the weekend making progress. The engine is buttoned back up. I'm waiting on the AC kit to arrive so I can get started on that.

Deep freeze plugs and Ford Motorsports oil pan rails were added.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/nQaUXETl-1.jpg

Engine flipped back over and ready to go back in when the time comes. I'm gonna be so disappointed if this thing leaks again. (foreshadowing)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/f2UpLt2l-1.jpg

The latest news. Not a whole lot going on, really. I called Desert Classic Parts to pick up the factory-style ac vents for my vintage air setup that I have coming. Bill was super helpful and accommodating. I opted for the factory-style vents because I really prefer the look over the 'below the dash' vents that come with the VA kit. I got a killer deal on the vents and they look fantastic.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/EQWFZozl-1.jpg

I also called Vintage Air this morning to switch out the controls to make sure that everything works well together when the kit arrives. The change will delay my order for a few days, but it'll be worth it.

I finally stitched-welded the shock towers because I figured it was the best time to do it since the engine was out of the way. I scuffed everything up, zipped it together, and then squirted some black paint on it.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/c4RwwL6l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/rSgH9ydl-1.jpg

Aside from that, I've picked up longer hoses for my lift. I got tired of tripping over the hoses and will be mounting the controls on the wall next so it's not on the floor and then running the hoses overhead so they're out of the way. I'll probably work on that this coming weekend unless my ac kit shows up earlier than expected. Maybe Dan will stop by to hang out if he's not wasting his weekend playing golf!

Oh, and I put new tires on my daily.....because I'm a responsible adult.

June 2023:

Still waiting on the AC kit to arrive. I did finally get around to wall-mounting the lift controls. I went overboard but I'd rather overdo it than have it fall and break something. Everything is back to working order. I will need to re-grease the lift blocks to address the jumpiness of the lift when it's on the up-travel. I'll get to that this weekend. I tested it by lifting the car and promptly used that opportunity to apply some heat shielding to the floor above the area that the headers are. Back to waiting on parts.....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/zTxFdl4l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/Q101oTxl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/tlJiy1vl-1.jpg

Made progress on getting AC all mounted up in the car. Hanging upside down in the floorboard while holding up an evaporator is so much fun!
I believe that I'm ready to stab the engine back in now. Once that's done, I'll start sorting out lines for the AC.

I will have to reroute and clean up a lot of my wiring since I no longer have a big empty space under the dash to leave it all.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/HamjxzMl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/UulQ6Uil-1.jpg

[arcane73]

July 2023:

I'm on vacation!
Made a run up to Las Vegas for a couple of days to reconfirm that I am not that city's target audience. Living in New Orleans for my younger years filled my social meter for a lifetime.
I did get the engine back in the car before leaving!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/WQ9Asonl-1.jpg

While in Vegas, we stopped by the Shelby American shop to poke around.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/VmG5YjSl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/jkZVqwKl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/e5O9Z73l-1.jpg

But, we're back home and all is well. I've got parts over at a friend's that will get dropped off at work when he's free. I also ordered a replacement fresh air vent since mine was trashed and had a hole in it (from the bullet that went through the A pillar and under the dash). It is currently sitting in the garage completely disassembled and soaking in evaporust since it looked to have been holding lots of dirt and leaves in it for quite some time. I'll get back to work this weekend putting everything under the dash back together so I can start getting this pile back on the road.


Made some progress today. I didn't get pics of it, but I put in a retrosound 5x7 in the dash. I also added some speaker grill material over the actual speaker to try and help cut down on the dust (because everything is dusty in the desert) that collected in the speaker.
I also started running ductwork for the ac.....it's a snake's nest under there. To make it worse, I also added the fresh air vent back in on the driver's side. Tomorrow will be spent running the wiring for the AC and cleaning up the existing wiring since I moved everything out of the way to make the duct work easier. I also ordered a headliner from MTF. It's sitting over at Dan's place. I will work on getting that installed sooner or later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/xxed5KOl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/XQqOdNGl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/HGAByd8l-1.jpg

Spent some time in my garage this weekend. I was putting my portable AC through its paces. I had a goal of getting the duct work and wiring sorted out and the dash completely assembled.
By 4 on saturday, I had everything routed under the dash before calling it a day. Sunday, I had to reroute some of the ducts to prevent them from rubbing against the wiper mechanism (not an easy task) and finish running the main power wires. I was able to get most of that all wrapped up and now my dash is more complete than it has been since January 2020!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/ysNrWhhl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

August 2023:

I've made progress on the ac. I have the dash completely reassembled for the first time in many years. I'll have to be creative for the radio bezel because the ac ducts take up the majority of the space behind the dash. I've considered finding a non-working factory AM radio and taking it apart and just using the face to fill the space. I'll sort that out later. Dan dropped off my Mustangs to Fear ABS headliner and I got that installed. It's in place right now and I'm leaving it alone for a few days to let it 'settle' before doing a final fitting. I also got the heater hoses and routing done. I had to chase down a fitting at a local shop because the one I had is buried in one of my boxes. I'll find it later. I also reinstalled the windshield and back glass trim.
I've been working on the interior stuff because I'm waiting on some hard lines from Vintage Air to arrive. I bent some templates up to run from the condenser into the engine bay. I figured that would be cleaner than trying to do rubber hoses. Once those arrive (2 weeks-ish?) I'll get back to wrapping up the AC install and getting the car back on the road!

As you can see, there's little to no room for the massive factory head unit. That's why I had considered making a facade with a broken factory AM setup to clean up the look.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/wULkcXUl-1.jpg

Heater hose routing. Since my engine sits down, back, and to the passenger side, I opted to use a preformed hose (Gates 18774) to help clear the block. It worked out well enough, I think. The first pic is the fitting I had to chase down because the one I had is sitting somewhere in a box laughing at me.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/B1iyMRUl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/VON6odol-1.jpg

Windshield trim and wipers back on!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/7dkIPj9l-1.jpg

Mustangs to fear headliner in. Yes, those are footprints. I was in the car and on my back installing it solo since I am stubborn and didn't want to pester the missus to assist. The fit at the a pillar covers isn't ideal but that's why I was going to leave everything in place to let it settle before I started to trim anything or drill holes.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/rOuevoal-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/xyQhSFLl-1.jpg

My hard lines from Vintage Air arrived yesterday. They turned out great. I spent this morning mocking up my soft lines and getting all of that ready. I'll take them to work and @Anangryford (https://www.vintage-mustang.com/members/46518/) knows a guy that will crimp them for me. Once I get those back, I'll be ready to button this pile up and get it back on the road.

When I made the line templates, I wanted to be sure that the lines cleared the fasteners for the radiator and went through an existing core support hole. I was pleased with the fit. The only thing I had to do was move the condenser over just a bit to give me room between the lines and the edge of the hole in the core support. That was as simple as loosening the screws and sliding it over since the mounting holes are slotted.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/n2pT8zyl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/uhPXxnEl-1.jpg

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https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/qdujM9ol-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/DIuquIFl-1.jpg

I also took the old radio apart that I picked up on ebay and got it mounted in the dash. I'll still need to move some ductwork around because it's still pushing a duct up high enough to hit the wiper arm. I'll get some pics of the radio as it sits now when I'm back outside.
This is where I started. My original working one is on the left.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/C44b13Yl-1.jpg

Radio pics after removing the majority of the body. I wanted to retain the buttons and knobs as well as the light. The tuning knob and station buttons still work but the power/volume button was sketchy at best when I took it apart and just free spins. No big deal. Everything is back in the car now and I'm looking forward to getting the AC lines crimped and getting this pile put back on the road!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/sCfsy0Jl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/XTASOOVl-1.jpg

[arcane73]

September 2023:

I've been on a self-imposed break from the car. Several posts back I stated that I would be very disappointed if this thing leaked. Well, it leaked and I addressed the leaks. And then things I haven't touched before that -weren't- leaking, leaked..... Anyway, still haven't drawn down the ac system or charged it yet. I've been fighting with a drooling cooling system. I will say that the Gates Powergrip shrink clamps are great, if you don't have to keep taking stuff apart.

Anyway, the ac lines are crimped and in place. I filled everything and pressure tested the car only to find a drooling water pump. Apparently, I had failed to properly seal the pump against the timing cover. I commence to tear everything back down, replace the pump gaskets and reseal them, reassemble everything, fill it, and pressure test again.....and the lower radiator hose starts peeing. So many profanities in such a short amount of time. I went ahead and started the car so I could do a combustion gas test. After the second core plug popped out, I wanted to be sure that I wasn't having those issues because of a head gasket or block leak. That test came out fine.

So I order another lower hose and wait for it to arrive. It shows up and is just different enough that it doesn't fit (the downside of using non bolt-in stuff). So I proceed to cut/trim it to fit. I place an order for the stuff I'll need to button that up and give the car the middle finger and walk away from it. The radiator hose parts arrive today. I will likely assemble that tonight and wait until this weekend to fill and test the system again. I've turned wrenches for many, many years and for whatever reason, this pump vexes me. I won't be a bit surprised if I get it all back together and it leaks from somewhere new. That's about as positive as I'll get for the moment.

Lines crimped and in place.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/lFvaLifl-1.jpg

Front and rear of the pump to cover gasket. I'll own this as my own fault. I let it skim and then assembled it all. It would seem that I didn't tighten everything down enough around the ports and caused a poor seal maybe?

Front
210077

Rear
210078

And the new hose after cutting and trimming. I'll be putting in a 3" aluminum tube section at the tape mark and shrink sealing it to create my new lower hose. Then it'll be time to fill and leak test it.....again.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/Y0kA6y6l-1.jpg

Productive weekend. I got the lower hose assembled and back on the car. Pressure tested everything again and found no coolant leaks. Drove the car a short while to circulate everything and came home. Still no coolant leaks anywhere but I did find oil dripping from 3 of the bolt heads on the driver side of the oil pan. I tightened all of the pan bolts a bit and reinstalled my strut tower brace and hood. Now it's finally time to pull a vacuum on and then fill the AC system.

Lower hose parts all assembled:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/1Z3O4uDl-1.jpg

Getting closer...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/oUYLRPMl-1.jpg

I feel accomplished!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/TX4i86cl-1.jpg

October 2023:

I drove my pile down to Casa Grande to a friend's place over the weekend. Why is that a big deal? Because it's roughly a two-hour round trip. And it's hot. I could manage it because 1) I have working AC! and 2) because my pile is trustworthy enough to handle it finally!

I borrowed some gauges and vacuum pump to pull down the system and check for leaks. When I didn't see any issues, I made plans to charge the system. On a whim, I called a local shop (Charly's Garage) to ask what they'd charge me to fill the system. He said he could knock it out for around $100 and had a spot open that afternoon if I could get it to him quickly enough. I dropped it off at noon and he called me around 3 to pick it up. No issues to speak of and the ac was nice and cold on my drive back to the house in 100* weather.

I had decided to run some of evaporust's thermocure through the system to get rid of some of the heavy rust inside the block that i found when I had the core plugs out. That stuff stinks when drained. After filling the system with distilled water and adding the rust stuff you're supposed to drive for around 3-4 hours before flushing it out. I drove out to central Phoenix to drop off his pump and gauges and then came back home. After getting back from Casa Grande I had covered enough time to drain and flush the system. Yesterday was spent doing several flushes and refills. I had stocked up on distilled water so I could get all of this done. It's sitting outside right now with coolant in it and everything seems to be good to go.

While I was at Mike's place, we talked about changes/upgrades to the car. I need to revisit my alignment soon. After having everything pulled apart and stuffed back in, i never went back to check it all. I'm also going to have to sort out the exhaust. I was getting a 90db reading in the car with the windows up and cruising down the highway. That's a bit excessive. I plan to run tailpipes out the back and ditch the side exits. They were never meant to be permanent anyway. I may also switch mufflers. That's all to be decided later.

Another discussion was wheels and tires. I'm leaning real hard towards picking up the SoT spindles and getting a different wheel/tire combo. I'll contact Street or Track when it gets closer to doing that. Mike tells me that if I decide to run a 275 squared setup, he'll give me more grief to autocross it. And if I run a 295 squared, he'll just take my car and run it himself.

Anyway, there's the news. I only have a pic or two to share.

Sitting at Mike's after the drive down. The cooling system burped because I had it overfull a little.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/SS5adwDl-1.jpg

Here is the first drain of the thermocure stuff....it stinks a bit..ok, A Lot!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/84ObHYtl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/RidTOAYl-1.jpg

And here are a couple of shots of the Holley tuning software. Hitt and I were looking at why the car wants to stumble when you press in the clutch coming to a stop and what is causing a flat spot around the 2-3k ish range when accelerating 'calmly'.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/EWIIrm0l-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/VU7s9c0l-1.jpg

Here's the latest. I am generally a patient man. But I hate leaks. And this pile has decided to leak....again.....from the oil pan and water pump. Follow along as I throw money in anger.

I'm running the ford shorty style water pump:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/4Rzye9kl-1.jpg

It continues to develop a leak between the backing plate and timing cover. This will be the 4th time I've pulled off the pump. I've tried Permatex 22071, Permatex #3, and straight gasket. I've even replaced the timing cover. Each time I've had the pump off, I've run a straight edge over it to be sure nothing is wavy or warped.

I may be right or wrong, but I feel that the shorty pump has an excellent opportunity to leak from the ports into the timing cover.
The reason I feel this way is because the standard pump has these two bolts:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/qO4VNHhl-1.jpg

The shorty, does not:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/280dPEQl-1.jpg

I called to speak to CVF about their thoughts on this and other things and I have a new shorty pump arriving today along with new hardware. They're also sending me a new crank pulley because I mentioned a constructive criticism of the one in my kit that didn't have an access hole to be able to spin the engine by hand unless the pulley came off. The tech responded with: "Oh, we've since changed that. I'll send you the new style, no charge. Just keep the old one in case you need it for something". They're awesome people. After some discussion back and forth and him stating that they see tons of that pump without issue and I've tried several methods to address it, he would send me a replacement. Again, no charge. His only thought is that the backing plate could be just wavy or bent just enough to allow seeping. So here's the can of worms. What can I do to better my chances of preventing this blasted thing from ever leaking again??? I'm tired of the coolant puddle on my catch pan.

Along those lines: the oil pan still drools. Not as bad as before but slighty so on the driver's side. When I spoke to Woody at FordStrokers.com, he mentioned that he's not a fan of most modern stamped pans and prefers the Moroso billet end pans. They are pricey....but I happened to find a return on Amazon for $400 off of retail price!!! For that price, I was willing to give it a shot. I could return it if it turned out to be a nightmare. The pan arrived Wednesday. It was unmolested. No hint of gasket material or oil ever touching it. There was a handprint on the base of the pan so I can only assume that a test fit happened and didn't turn out to be what that person needed.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/WKoQTsgl-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/ahXcVi7l-1.jpg

So that's where I'm at. My weekend will likely consist of putting this pile in the air and draining the oil and water and replacing the pan and pump in the hopes that I can keep the vital fluids IN the car. Along with that, I'm planning on attempting to change the side exits out in favor of tailpipes in the near future. We'll see how that pans out.

Last pic....I may have over-prepared:
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/J8BRgDrl-1.jpg

The replacement pump arrived Friday and is in. I wasn't expecting the blacked out version, though. Doesn't matter to me either way. As long as it doesn't leak. I did a thin layer of RTV on both sides of the pump gasket and the same around the ports on the backing plate gasket. I followed the instructions and let it set for an hour before doing a final tighten on it all. We'll see how it goes.
I also put a small amount of black RTV around the drooling oil pan bolts. I still plan to replace the pan but I'll wait until it's time to change the oil before I do that.
I've ordered a few extra bolts that should arrive this week. The socket head screws that come with the front drive kit have taken a beating with all of the remove/install that I've been doing and there were a couple that were feeling a bit sloppy. I'd rather replace those now before getting it all back together only to have them fight me further down the road.

If this monster stops drooling, the next adventure will be exhaust. I know muffler tone/sound is subjective but I need to make mine more tolerable. I'm considering adding v-bands behind the mufflers when I have the tailpipes added so I can try swapping out mufflers easier. I already have them on the front. I currently have black widows with resonators on it. It was described as 'blappy' with the side exits. I've considered the 50 series flowmaster deltaflow, magnaflows, flowmaster dBX, Borla, etc. I'll have to see which direction this goes.

It doesn't leak if there's no coolant in it!

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/G2BQeQrl-1.jpg

[Pedigry]

Wow, great thread. I have similar situations with my car. Always chasing something. Currently it's a rear main seal, which when I purchased the car, the previous owner told me was not a rear main seal, just a oil pan gasket. But I digress...

Unless I am reading it wrong, it looks like the motor is producing more torque than HP. In that situation, typically it's under cammed. You may know this already, just thought I would mention it. Also the engines never make the power you think they should. I am trying to find out where the 30 to 40 hp is on my motor that I am convinced should be there. The truth is, it probably just isn't there. lol. Love the progress, keep it up.

[arcane73]

Wow, great thread. I have similar situations with my car. Always chasing something. Currently it's a rear main seal, which when I purchased the car, the previous owner told me was not a rear main seal, just a oil pan gasket. But I digress...

Unless I am reading it wrong, it looks like the motor is producing more torque than HP. In that situation, typically it's under cammed. You may know this already, just thought I would mention it. Also the engines never make the power you think they should. I am trying to find out where the 30 to 40 hp is on my motor that I am convinced should be there. The truth is, it probably just isn't there. lol. Love the progress, keep it up.

Always something, right??

And you are correct. It is building more torque than HP. It is a stroked 351 Windsor (408) and all of the early plans where pointing to this being the case. It is a riot to drive. Easily breaks loose on a smooth second gear shift into liberal throttle application. I haven't considered changing anything engine-related though. I won't say that I wouldn't in the future. We can all use that few more HP, right?

[arcane73]

Got everything reassembled yesterday and took it for a short test drive. No leaking coolant. Met up with Dan and we drove down to our friend Mike's place to talk shop and spend each other's money with future upgrades talk and plan for the SCCA race next weekend. Got home....no coolant leaks. I'll be talking to the exhaust shop this week to see about making some changes soon. I'm just shy of 800 miles on the fresh engine. I think it's almost time to change the oil, swap the pan, and begin the drive-it, flog-it, upgrade-it process!


Mine is hiding in the shade in the background. Dan is the coyote powered 66 and Mike's is the Chevelle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2023/10/jN3B4Reh-1.jpg

[arcane73]

Not much has been going on lately. I was supposed to go on a vacation to see family during the first week of December but ended up getting Covid from a knucklehead at work that didn't bother to stay home while he was sick. That ate up $600 in non-refundable plane tickets and a week's worth of vacation. Yeah....do the world a favor and stay at home when you're sick....regardless of what you've got.

I've got a short list (not really that short) of things that I want to address in the near future on the car. But as things go, there is talk of having the roof on the house redone this spring. That could slow progress down a little on the car. I'll have to see much juggling I'll need to do.

The list:

Header swap - remove JBAs and add FPAs.
redo/finish exhaust - add tailpipes at the very least. possibly switch to borla mufflers.
Swap intake back to Vic jr. from Performer RPM
Swap moroso billet oil pan on to replace Aviaid stamped pan.
Swap integrated PS pump reservoir for remote mounted setup.
Add parking brake setup of some sort.
sort out fine details in the tune.

Maybe list:

swap out valve covers. The fabricated ones aren't bad but they are difficult to work around.
swap out plug wires. currently running msd sbf universal set and not satisfied with the fitment/clearance.



ONE MONTH LATER:

It's been a bit. I've been keeping myself busy doing maintenance on the dailies and relaxing a bit. I have also been gathering funds and parts preparation to begin the list of stuff.


This weekend I got started on the list.


I swapped out the Performer RPM intake and went back to the Vic Jr. I'll either need to get a drop base for my air cleaner or trim one of the studs for the hood scoop.

This is everything just set on top of the intake for test fitting.


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/FZn1BgEh-1.jpg


Next up was taking the crossmember off and taking the steering link apart to make getting the oil pan easier to work on.

A couple of weekends ago I was at a friend's place sorting out the alignment....the one with the chevelle.

I am holding the wrench on the passenger side and realize he's prepping to tighten the LCA bolt with his 1/2 drive dewalt impact.

I calmly explain there's no need to go gorilla-mode on it and get a 'got it' in reply......

I had to order replacement hardware for that side.....

This was after grinding off the head so I could get the bolt out and crossmember off. :confused:


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/KYPDdnKh-1.jpg


Anyway....I got the Aviaid pan off and the Moroso on for test fitting. There is so much room now. No clearance issues with the crossmember or steering at all!


https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2024/01/lWsKhRkh-1.jpg


I also ordered a Motorcraft sending unit gasket from amazon. Mine had been drooling a bit and I wanted to get ahead of it getting worse. No pics of that, but I was pleasantly surprised when a pack of 10! gaskets arrived instead of the 1 that I had ordered.....I now have plenty of spares...


I'm hoping that my FPA headers will arrive soon. This will soon be all buttoned up and then it'll be time to sort out the tune and maybe then I'll have it ready-ish to go fling it around.

[arcane73]

One year's worth of updates - go!

In the latest good news: FPA headers have arrived!!!
In the latest bad news: Car stuff is on hold while we put a roof on the house! :cautious:

Being a responsible adult is less fun than people make it out to be.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/CVYSCLQ-1.jpg

Since I've been in 'save money' mode, I was looking at free/cheap things that I could do. I've been toying with the idea of adding a third brake light for a while. I'd even collected one from a friend's Crown Vic donor car.
I messed around today with building a riser and placing it in the back window to get a better idea of how it would look. I don't think I'm sold on the idea.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/DP09nCe-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/n4xHCiQ-1.jpg

June 2024:

Nothing exciting has been going on lately. I had the past week off of work mainly to burn some vacation time. I decided to go over to a local exhaust shop that was recommended by a few nearby hot rodders. I had called to ask about getting tailpipes on the car and explained what they'd be up against and was given a rough estimate. When I mentioned that it was a tight fit, the owner said "We work with tight spaces all the time. It should be no problem."
I get there and the car goes in the air and I get compliments on the existing setup. They asked if it was a kit and I explained that it was just a quick and dirty setup made from a box of bends.
The conversation moves to tailpipes and the owner walks over and then another guy...and another. Soon, there are 4 of us under the car. The 3 exhaust guys are trying to get creative about ways to run tailpipes and coming up short. After a few minutes of suggestions that sounded more and more like they didn't have a good way to run what I wanted and the price was twice what the original estimate was, I thanked them for their time and headed home.
Sooner or later, I'll get back into the car. For now, it's still recover-mode as far as finances go. It's not so bad since we've been sitting in triple digit temps in AZ. Hopefully I'll have some plans laid out and ready to get back to it by the time it cools off around here.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/91loRqe-1.jpg

November 2024:

It's been a minute. Things are better but still not 100%. Roof is all sorted and paid. Salary negotiations are going on at work. Plans are starting to form in the background if the negotiations don't prove fruitful. But enough of boring life crap!

I entered a car show today! A local vo-tech school had their annual car show and a lot of the CAM-T guys went and talked me into going. I washed my junk in a pitiful attempt to make it presentable and headed out. The missus and I got there a little before 9 and hung out until the show wrapped up around 1. I'm a terrible person and didn't get pics aside from the two below. The pic of my junk (with my shadow in the way) was to show my dad that I actually got up on time and made it. And the other was to show him my buddy Mike and his wife made it out as well. Maybe the next post will be of exhaust updates or something fun.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/kRqL0Pp-1.jpg

I'm a visual sort. I need to physically 'see' parts of the plan that forms in my head to help me better sort out the remaining plan....if that makes sense. To that end, I purchased a set of Flowmaster's prebent tailpipes for my pile. This should allow me to cram the pipes under the car to see where I'll need to trim the panhard mount and move brake lines, etc. Once I get the clearance for the pipes, I'll work on chasing down my buddy Mike and work on getting everything zapped in permanently. That will include adding the hangars, v-band clamps, and adding turndowns before the rear valance.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/GPIJujy-1.jpg

Got outside today and got the car in the air to poke around to see what I need to do. I've got enough workable room I believe. I will need to move the feed line for the rear brake junction. I'll likely start on cleaning up the rear end and freshening the rear brakes while i'm there.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/u5HRDJO-1.jpg

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/IRtCEFT-1.jpg

I decided to pull the rear this weekend and start working on getting the brake line moved to make room for the eventual tailpipes. In typical 'me' fashion, it turned into a long list of 'while I'm here'.
The simple plan: clean up and make sure the rear is set to go back under the car so I don't have to revisit anything later.
The 'while i'm here" plan: address any issues I find and 'upgrade/futureproof' the 8.8 as I go.

I have braided lines to replace both the body to axle line as well as the caliper lines. I have had the hard to rubber line brackets rigged/temp fitted ever since I swapped the rear end in December of 2016. 8 years is still safely within the 'temporary' range, right? I will be welding on a more permanent solution and running new hard lines.
While I was pulling the rear end out, I remembered a drooling axle seal and decided to replace both....even though they were both reportedly replaced with the bearing & seal set I supplied to the rear end shop when I had the gear set done.
I also dug out my anti-moan brackets and modified them both to clear the added spring pads. I didn't reinstall them originally since I didn't have immediate access to a welder. I will also be running a couple of small welds around the housing to tubes flange to help prevent twisting. Not that I expect it to happen, just another step on the list.
I'll need to drop my rotors off this afternoon to get turned and decide what I want to do about brake pads.
Once ALL of that is done, I'll refresh the oil in it and scuff it and squirt some paint on it. Then, hopefully, I'll be able to get started on tailpipes.

December 2024:

With Thanksgiving going on and spending that time relaxing with the wife, very little happened with the car. I did manage to get a few things done to make the 'while i'm here' list move along easier.
I replaced the axle seals and oil in the rear end yesterday. The rear end is buttoned back up and ready for the next steps. I also decided to go with Baer for new rear rotors and pads to better match their front system I'm running.
Next up is waiting on parts and warming up the welder. I picked up a handbrake lever from a 93 mustang along with a few other odds and ends to see if I can make that work. I'll be doing something similar to what Daze Cars did but with a few variations. The idea I have in my head should work. I'll basically be using the 93 lever with my stock 95 e-brake cables and a few other pieces to tie it all together. That stuff should arrive this week.
This weekend I plan to zip the brake tabs on the axle as well as run some stitch welds around the tubes to the center section. That reminds me that I need to find the measurement of the distribution block to outer flange on the 67-8 dual exhaust cars so I know where to mount mine.
After that's all done, I can squirt some paint on the rear to make it look a little more presentable and then stab it back into the car and work on sorting out the hand brake. Once that's all done, I should be able to get Mike nailed down so we can start futzing around with running tailpipes on this pile...

Spent part of yesterday and today mucking about with the rear again. Found out after spending too much time trying to clean up the calipers that one acts like it's seized. I tried several times to get the piston to rotate in either direction with no luck, so I ordered both. They'll be here in a few days.
Meanwhile, I used them to mock up my new braided lines and mark the spot for the caliper feed line tabs and the body to rear line bracket bolt. While I had the welder out, I zipped the anti-moan brackets back together after trimming a bit off of the end to clear the u-bolts and ran stitch welds between the axle tubes and housing. All in all, a semi-productive weekend. I ended the day by squirting some black paint on the rear to hide my ugly welding. Now back to waiting on parts.

Line tab and anti-moan brackets zipped up.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2025/04/0tsKBOO-1.jpg

More minor stuff today. I had ordered new calipers from Rock Auto. Rebuilt units from Raybestos and they're getting sent back. One had a seal half-installed around the e-brake lever and the other had a rusty guide pin that didn't want to come out of the guide. I'm not going to spend money on crap like that. Anyway, I put mine back on so I could mock up everything and make the hard lines. A friend may come over next weekend and I'll test brake pressure and would like to button everything back up. I'll just need to decide on what I'm doing with the calipers before then.

Lines done and in place. Nothing is tightened, just laid out to see where it is all going to live. I ended up using the line brackets from the original 8.8 lines to hold the hard line in place over the center section. I just trimmed the excess off and welded them on.

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Had the whole week off and didn't do a lot with the car. Spent it relaxing with the Missus and enjoying time away from work. What I did manage to get done was tighten everything back up and get the wheels back on the car so I could set it back down and play with the hand brake some.

Everything is back on and tightened. Well, not the wheels because I put them on the wrong side. Saw that after I put the car down. No matter. I'll get them back on the correct side when take them off to bleed everything.
I think this is where the hand brake lever will live. I've just come in from bolting it into place and like the feel and location. Tomorrow I will likely be messing around with the rear cable routing.

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More work on parking brake. All that's left is some clean up and fine tuning. The original 8.8 cables were too long for what I planned to do. I ordered Wilwood's universal cable set and spent time today getting those routed and installed.

To use the fox-style parking brake, I opted to notch the floor to allow the cable 'wheel' to sit below the surface of the tunnel so I could prevent any binding of the cable against the sheet metal.

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I've got some 3/8" double clamps on the way to finish cleaning up the routing along the back of the tunnel. I've also got some mass backed vinyl sheet that I'll use to fill in the opening in the floor to prevent any excess dust and whatnot getting in. Once the clamps show up, I'll get those mounted, change out the tek-screws with regular fasteners, and final tighten everything. Then...maybe....I'll get this pile down to Mike's for tailpipes....

January 2025:

I have a bunch of stuff in my car and a few more boxes to throw in tomorrow morning. I'll be headed down to my buddy's house to revisit exhaust finally. The FPA headers are in the box in the back seat, the tailpipes are in the passenger side. I'll throw the new mufflers and other stuff in the floor tomorrow morning before i head out. I chose to go with the 50 series delta flow flowmasters. I know there are lots that don't care for the sound but I didn't see any offers for free mufflers anywhere, so.....
I'll be sure to give another update once all this gets sorted.

I'm still not sure why my dad keeps telling me to worry about seats...

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February 2025:

It's late and I'm beat. A quick update before bed so I can get back to it tomorrow.
Stan at FPA is a magician. The headers fit well enough that I had enough room on the driver side to shove my engine back to center and still have room. The new mufflers are on and the car is quieter. We ran out of time so mike decided to help me revisit our late teens and put turndowns as a temp setup. I'll be going back tomorrow to finish up the tailpipes. The only "issues" i ran into was the starter had to be clocked differently to give the solenoid clearance, the engine needed to be re-centered for better space on the passenger side for the headers and I'll be revisiting plug wires in the future. The MSD wires I have have their long 'multi-angle' boot and there's a couple of tubes that don't have lots of room for the long boot. I'm considering Ford's build-your-own set with angled short boots.

So much more clearance now. Didn't have to bash a single tube.
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He wanted me to relive my 66 that I had in high school.....Tailpipes go on tomorrow.....
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The latest: I'm done with exhaust for now. Went back to mike's today and started fitting the tailpipes. The only really tight spot was on the driver's side through the panhard bracket, which I expected. I trimmed it back a little and everything else went together pretty well. Now that I've got that done, I'll let my car fund build back up a little and figure out what I want to mess with next.


Here is the spot in question after I'd trimmed a little off.
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Here is the exit. I went back and trimmed the end of the pipe off to make it stick out just a little past the valance.
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Latest news - Heat shield material for the tank has arrived. I'll get that on this weekend. Last weekend I puttered around and adjusted the passenger side tailpipe hanger to level it out and make it more even with the other side. I also finally decided to add additional hardware to my license plate so it wasn't so floppy. While i was farting around in the garage, I was looking at the list of what I wanted to tackle next.
This morning I called Andrew to talk details on getting the tune sorted/smoothed out. I'm done with any real changes to engine parts and from here forward I'll be addressing other stuff on my build so it seemed like a good time to get the tune looked at and finalized. For those that don't remember, the local shop that handled the initial tune said they were done with tuning but the car spit out a freeze plug (again) on the last power pull.
Since then, I've gone through pulling the engine, replacing the core plugs, checking for leaks, etc to make sure that the "rapid unscheduled disassembly" of those two plugs was due to poor installation and not a deeper engine issue. With all of that done, I still felt like the tune could be cleaner and have better driveability (less cold start stalls, acceleration stumbles, etc) so I contacted Andrew because he has had in hands in several of the local SCCA guys' tunes and has sorted many cool cars out on the Pro-Touring forums in addition to his own builds.
Once all of that is sorted out, I'll get back to the other stuff on my list.

I spent some time today putting the heat shield on either side of the tank. Again, it may not be necessary, but I did it nonetheless.

Distance between pipe and tank on passenger side:
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Distance on driver side:
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Tank wiped clean and heat shield applied and pipe back on and ready to go:
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No interesting pics for today's efforts. Andrew got me pretty close to being squared away. I still had occasional hiccup at partial throttle when shifting. I couldn't reliably reproduce it, so he enabled the data logging and I'll add a switch to turn it on. Then, go drive around and have it grab 30 second logs when I leave lights or whatnot to see if we can pinpoint what it was.
In the meantime, I've confirmed that my intake is drooling oil on the backside. That very well could be what I had noticed collecting on the bellhousing.
I also decided to redo my plug wires, so I have a set of the Ford Racing cut-to-length wires and wire separators on the way as well as intake gaskets.

While it's true that I have a box of parts in the garage waiting on me to get started on the intake gasket replacement, plug wire clean up, etc. This was by far the most interesting arrival:
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March 2025:

Intake gaskets replaced and the "while I'm here" job: plug wire and heater hose changes complete. I will work on making the seat brackets next weekend most likely.

The Ford plug wires worked out well except for number 8. I had to swap the 45* boot with one of my spare 'Multi-Angle" MSD boots because the 45* sat against the header tube. I mimicked the wire separators that Prestige used on Shaun's Wife 3 build. I also swapped out one heater hose for something to give me a cleaner look (Gates 28471). It comes up from the water pump and then has a 90* bend and goes back across the intake to the heater core. After I got the hose replaced, I cut a section of radiator hose to protect the valve cover from the heater valve.

I still haven't taken the time to wire up and install the switch for the data logging. I'll be sure to get that in before the seats are mounted.
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I did a thing!
After checking a few measurements and doing some test fitting, I determined that the width of the sparco tracks wasn't very far off from the factory tracks. With that in mind, I measured the front/aft and left/right of the factory holes in the seat pan and chose to make the sparco track mounts match those. The factory seat holes are roughly 14" x 11". I had ordered the factory style studs and nuts to use in mounting the new seats mostly because I wanted the same ease of getting the nuts started when installing or removing them.
I used my die grinder to open the holes in the sparco tracks to allow use of the oem style studs in the front holes and had to drill a new hole for the rears. Once all of that was correct, I placed tack welds to prevent the studs from moving around and then mounted the tracks to the seats. I used the die grinder again to massage the holes in the floor pans to give myself enough clearance since the studs were making contact just a touch on the inner edges of the mounting holes.
Seats went in, got bolted down, and a test drive was performed. They are far more comfortable than the worn out factory seats. I'm 5'11" and 175lbs and have an inch or more head room. I opted not to move the mounting points back since I don't feel I needed the leg room with the tilt steering column.
On to the next thing....whatever that may be.

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Nothing too exciting lately. I worked with Andrew to get my data logging set up. I added a temp switch under the dash so I can activate the logging and have the center of the button light up to let me know it's active. After I got it where it would live for now, I cleaned up the wiring and tucked it all away.

In other news, I asked the wife and resident fabric nerd about doing something about the bright white 'sparco' script in the seats. After fussing about looking for a suitable grey fabric pen and not finding one I liked, she suggested I do the 'sharpie tie dye' trick. You take a sharpie color of your choice (in this case, grey) and color the fabric then dab over that with rubbing alcohol to cause it to bleed and set. I did the passenger seat first and like how it turned out.

This is testing the process on the S in the script. It seemed to cut the white just enough even though it is hard to tell in this photo.
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And this is after doing the entire script on the passenger side. I like how it turned out. Just subtle enough.
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My next adventure will be alignment and tire scrub work. When I set my alignment up, I added caster by shortening the strut rod adjustments. I got the numbers I wanted but now the leading edge of the tires is making contact with the front lower lip of the fender while turning. Looks like what I'll need to do is center the wheel in the opening again and maybe add shims to the front bolt on the UCA to get me back where i want and use the strut rod for minor adjustments. That means I'll have to revisit camber and toe again. I'm running the lower crossmember and camber plates from Opentracker/Zray I have an older set of plates and changing the adjustments can be time consuming. The plates in this older kit are not slotted so I either need to slot them so I can swap them out without having to completely remove the bolt, or remove and replace the bolt each time during my adjusting.
Not a big deal....as a matter of fact....this would be the perfect excuse to buy a milling machine to notch my current plates....right?