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  1. #1
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    Default Slow 68 mustang - Big Girl Pearl or "Yellow Fury"

    Hi!
    This is my first post here. Iím a recent transplant into Phoenix by way of New Orleans. Iíve decided to make this post because I have a few ideas and more than a few questions. Iíve been using the forums for a while as a source of inspiration for my current car. Itís a 1968 mustang coupe. Iíd like to eventually end up with a car that my wife and I can hop in and take cruising on long road trips and have it perform as good as or even better than my daily driver. Iíd also like to have it handle and stop far better than my DD. In short, I want my 47 year old classic to be more reliable and more fun to drive.

    The Car: 1968 Mustang.
    Current engine/trans: I6 with 3 speed.
    Color: Meadowlark yellow
    Distinguishing marks: 3 bullet holes in the driverís door and 3 ricochets on the pass quarter/roof.

    So hereís the plan:
    Iíd like to keep the shock towers. Why? Easier. Iíd like to stay with a SBF, 351 likely. Add efi and possibly supercharge at a much later date. Iíd like to stick with Ďbolt-oní type suspensions upgrades. Why? See above and I am hoping to keep the car drivable and do the upgrades in stages. Iíve had a project in the past where I tore it all down and then lost interest/ran out of funds and it got sold off. Not going to happen this time.

    Iíve spoken to Mark Savitske about the car a few times and heís made lots of suggestions based off of what I had to work with. Since he was good enough to spend his time with me on the phone, heís the one I went through for my parts. About 90% of all of this will be done by me in my garage at home or at a friendís shop. (He has the welder and the ACíd shop). I donít see myself doing a wild custom build like many others on this forum because thatís just not where my budget falls. Iíll also be taking this slowly as to keep the wife on board.

    So far, all Iíve done after the initial purchase was minor tune-up stuff so thereís really no need for a build thread. It would pale in comparison to most of the rest here and be much, much slower with updates. I have purchased Baer SS4 fronts and TCP front spindles. Iíd like to continue with TCP parts unless Iím convinced otherwise. I havenít even installed the brakes or spindles since Iím not able to gather the rest of the suspension pieces and wheels just yet. But when I do, Iíd like to fill in a much of the wheel tubs as possible. Iím hoping for 18X7 with a 245 front and 18X9.5 with 295 rear. Iím not sure how well thatíll work but my friend has a Wheelworks tool so weíll be getting measurements in the next couple of weeks. My next purchase will be a rear end. The old one will be swapped out with an 8.8. 5-lug, discs, trac-lokÖ.cheap and abundant. After that, rear springs and shocks followed by front UCAs, springs, shocks and then wheels/tires and probably frame connectors after that.




    1. Make it stop
    2. Make it handle
    3. Make it go


    So this is where I turn into the listener. What do I need to look out for? What should I avoid and research more? Am I crazy? Is this too timid to be considered Pro-Touring?
    Give me your thoughts and concernsÖand maybe occasionally some words of inspiration.

    Thanks!
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.


  2. #2
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    Mar 2009
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    left coast
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    Im sure you'll have several votes from this group to keep the bullet holes. Inspiration. . .its taken me 4+ yrs to get where I'm at, started with a running, licensed 66 289 car, tore it completely down to the shell, and back up, steel, body and paint. Hope to have the motor in it in the next couple weeks. TCP has just released their pan hard bar for the 8 or 9" rear leaf setup. MikeMaierINC is another great place for mustang racing hardware. Good luck, have fun.

  3. #3
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    May 2004
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    I have all Global West stuff on my 68 coupe. I tried a 295 tire on a 18x10 wheel but it rubbed way too much at my ride height (GW leafs dearched 2"). Since I liked the stance I went with smaller 275 tire on a 9" wheel rather than raise it up.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by groho View Post
    Im sure you'll have several votes from this group to keep the bullet holes. Inspiration. . .its taken me 4+ yrs to get where I'm at, started with a running, licensed 66 289 car, tore it completely down to the shell, and back up, steel, body and paint. Hope to have the motor in it in the next couple weeks. TCP has just released their pan hard bar for the 8 or 9" rear leaf setup. MikeMaierINC is another great place for mustang racing hardware. Good luck, have fun.
    I'd like to keep the holes. I plan on leaving the paint/body work until i'm satisfied with everything else, so they'll be there a while. I've been looking at Mike's subframe connectors and tower bracing. I wanted to see about picking someone's brains on a side by side compare to the TCP stuff. I like the idea of supporting the guy that struck out on his own to do something that he loves.
    Quote Originally Posted by kmcanally View Post
    I have all Global West stuff on my 68 coupe. I tried a 295 tire on a 18x10 wheel but it rubbed way too much at my ride height (GW leafs dearched 2"). Since I liked the stance I went with smaller 275 tire on a 9" wheel rather than raise it up.
    I haven't looked at any of the GW stuff in a long while. I'll take a look at that. And my fall back plan is for 275s. I'm just hoping with the right amount of BS and hammer on the inner fender that I can get it to work.
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    We need pictures!

    I just installed the TCP rack in my 67 Cougar and it was a super easy install. Next week I will be ordering one of their front suspension kits.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    We need pictures! I just installed the TCP rack in my 67 Cougar and it was a super easy install. Next week I will be ordering one of their front suspension kits. Andrew
    Crap! Sorry, didn't think to toss any up. I've looked at the rack. It's pricy but Savitske says it's worth every cent.

    Pics!

    This is what I saw when I went to talk $$

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    Bullet Holes!

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    Bee Hive that had been built in the door. Someone else had killed them offÖ.I just had to clean it out.

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    Kinda simple so far. But Iíd love to keep the outer look of the car. Iím all for having it perform great long before it looks good!
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by arcane73 View Post
    Crap! Sorry, didn't think to toss any up. I've looked at the rack. It's pricy but Savitske says it's worth every cent.
    Pics! This is what I saw when I went to talk $$ Bullet Holes! Bee Hive that had been built in the door. Someone else had killed them off….I just had to clean it out. Kinda simple so far. But I’d love to keep the outer look of the car. I’m all for having it perform great long before it looks good!
    Looks like a really clean car to start with. Check out my Cougar build since I too am keeping the outside appearance as it sits, but upgrading the majority of the suspension and drivetrain.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  8. #8
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    It was clean. Coming from the south I knew that I would be facing less rust when I started looking for something here in AZ. I'm really happy with it. There are a couple of really minor spots on the doors that a friend and I will be patching in the near future.

    Your Cougar build is awesome. I had considered an LS swap (my friend was really pushing me) but for budget and sanity reasons I've decided to stick with a Windsor.

    Edit: Andrew.....your LS cougar swap has started to peak my interest in the LS again... (don't tell my friend)
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Des Moines, IA
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    438

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    Great starting point, and there's no reason you can't build a really fun to drive street car without cutting it all to pieces. You know how you want the car to be used...that's a big deal in terms of successfully completing a project and for keeping costs under control.
    Cars are meant to be driven.

    John B

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaybee View Post
    Great starting point, and there's no reason you can't build a really fun to drive street car without cutting it all to pieces. You know how you want the car to be used...that's a big deal in terms of successfully completing a project and for keeping costs under control.
    Thanks John. I knew way back before buying the car what my self-imposed limits would be. I'm just thrilled to have another project in the garage. Been without something for 15 years and my 66 mustang has been gone for 20.
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  11. #11
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    Guys, I have to admit that after going through Andrew's Cougar and Zenith's 67 LS swaps.....I'm really leaning towards that end of the pool again. I just won't be able to afford the 'buy it and try it' approach. So I'll keep hoping someone will release LS to 1st gen mustang mounts/exhaust or be *very* cautious (overly probably) with my planning when it comes time to engine purchase time.

    As an unrelated sidenote: I've purchased Baer SS4 fronts and I plan to run V40 wheels in 18s. Are the brakes going to look anemic and make me consider downsizing to 17s (can't afford to rebuy brakes and pony up the difference) or might i be ok? Haven't seen much yet to really make a good comparison.
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  12. #12
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    Very nice looking car. It looks like something that won't take a whole lot of work either!


    Ridetech Suspsension
    Tech Specialist
    Phone: 812.481.4734

    Project Fox
    1979 Trans Am

  13. #13
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    Aug 2012
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    Completely random: I've been cruising Craigslist looking for good deals. Yesterday I stumbled across a complete 8.8 for a decent price. So I called the guy up, talked details and sealed the deal.
    This morning the wife and I drove way the hell out to the east valley and picked up the rear end in her Scion XB! It's a microvan according to the title....my wife loves getting the challenge of trying to turn it into a moving van/parts runner.

    95 GT Traction-Lock 8.8 with under 130k miles. Complete from rotor to rotor (ignore the spray-bombed calipers) for under $300.
    I'll start working on tearing it down, cleaning it up, refreshing *everything* inside (bearings, seals, clutches) and then get it relocated so i can ditch the old brackets and get the new stuff measured and welded up.
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  14. #14
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    Contents of the first of many boxes:

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    This is a bunch of quality parts. I was hesitant to spend such a hefty amount of cash on brakes but it's where you should *never* skimp. I'm so happy with my purchase.

    Next up is saving mode again. I've got to gather the necessary pieces to build up the 8.8 and then begins the long and arduous wait for wheels......bleh.
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  15. #15
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    Dec 2010
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    You've got a good start and some good ideas. As for the LS vs. 351 argument, both can make excellent power, but the LS will do it more cheaply, and it will also not bother your wife when she wants to drive (won't run in a way that makes her think it's broken). My last Ford small block was just a bit too lopey (cam) for my liking, especially in relation to how much power it made; my new 5.3 LS will make about the same power, but it will also run like a Toyota Camry and get way better mileage (than the not-so-old X302). The engine bay in a '68, even with the towers, is just right for an LS . . .

    Consider Mike Maier's approach to suspension: While he's marketed some pretty flashy stuff over the years, he still runs a Panhard bar. On average, his parts are way less flashy than some of the competition's, but somebody at most vintage track days or autocrosses is using something he made (and doing so effectively) . . .

  16. #16
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    Jun 2014
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    Check out these guys for some Good Pricing on the rear-end rebuild stuff...
    http://www.quickperformance.com/
    Seem pretty reasonable and sell Made in USA stuff...
    Ron -
    1970 Mach1
    440 RWHP, 428 RWTQ
    Calypso Coral, 357W, T5Z 5-speed,
    Edelbrock 454 17x8 Wheels, 255x40x17 rear, 215x45x17 front, Bridgestone Potenza RE-71, TCP Coilovers Front, Global West Del-A-Lum Bushings,Global West Adj. Strut Rods, Wilwood Discs All around

  17. #17
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    I will be watching this thread. I have a 68 Convertible and was able to squeeeeeze in a 295/35 18 tire. You will have to have very accurate bs measurements and a BFH for the inner wheel house but they will fit. My only concern would be lateral movement of the axle if you don't run a panhard bar or something. I have a TCP Gbar rear suspension which keeps it located in position. I don't think I have more than a 1/4" of clearance on the inside or outside of the tire. The wheel is 10" wide.

    My front tires are 245 wide on 18's and the fit is tight there as well. I am right up against the ball joint and had to roll the fenders to keep them from rubbing. The front wheel is 8" wide.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustomatic View Post
    You've got a good start and some good ideas. As for the LS vs. 351 argument, both can make excellent power, but the LS will do it more cheaply, and it will also not bother your wife when she wants to drive (won't run in a way that makes her think it's broken). My last Ford small block was just a bit too lopey (cam) for my liking, especially in relation to how much power it made; my new 5.3 LS will make about the same power, but it will also run like a Toyota Camry and get way better mileage (than the not-so-old X302). The engine bay in a '68, even with the towers, is just right for an LS . . .

    Consider Mike Maier's approach to suspension: While he's marketed some pretty flashy stuff over the years, he still runs a Panhard bar. On average, his parts are way less flashy than some of the competition's, but somebody at most vintage track days or autocrosses is using something he made (and doing so effectively) . . .
    Thanks for the input on the LS/SBF points. I find myself leaning further towards an LS every time I slow down to think about it. I'm sure there are pros and cons to each but when it comes down to getting to the finished product within a certain dollar amount, the LS keeps pulling ahead. And I'm really interested in Maier's stuff. I'm just want to be sure that whatever it is i choose for suspension is going to be dependable and heavy-mileage friendly. I plan on driving the pants off of this thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mach1_Ron View Post
    Check out these guys for some Good Pricing on the rear-end rebuild stuff...
    Seem pretty reasonable and sell Made in USA stuff...
    Thanks for that. I'll hopefully putting together an order in the next few weeks for my rear end parts and I'd like to save where i can. I'll check them out.

    Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
    I will be watching this thread. I have a 68 Convertible and was able to squeeeeeze in a 295/35 18 tire. You will have to have very accurate bs measurements and a BFH for the inner wheel house but they will fit. My only concern would be lateral movement of the axle if you don't run a panhard bar or something. I have a TCP Gbar rear suspension which keeps it located in position. I don't think I have more than a 1/4" of clearance on the inside or outside of the tire. The wheel is 10" wide.

    My front tires are 245 wide on 18's and the fit is tight there as well. I am right up against the ball joint and had to roll the fenders to keep them from rubbing. The front wheel is 8" wide.
    Hi Darreld,
    I recognize you from VMF. Your car is actually one of the ones I looked at when I was contemplating 17s or 18s. My plan is still as much tire as physically possible while retaining stock body lines. When I'm closer to ordering wheels I plan to measure and remeasure everything to be sure I have my numbers right. I'm also leaning towards some sort of panhard setup on the rear. For more predictability as well as making sure my tires don't get chewed on by the fender.
    I can only hope that mine eventually turns out half as nice as yours!
    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  19. #19
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    So. Over the past year I've been gathering parts while waiting on the Phoenix temps to cool back off some.
    During that time I've picked up my wheels & tires, new front suspension goodies from Mike Maier, took the 8.8 in for a ring and pinion setup and then had to toss that housing and get another one.

    On with the pics!
    Wheels and tires. Nothing super fancy or expensive. 17x8 fronts and 17x9.5 rears. 245/45ZR17 & 275/40ZR17 BFG Sport Comp-2.
    Got these all in a deal from Discount using my summit card. Turned out to basically be a "buy 3 get third free" deal after rebates.
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    Also decided to ditch the stock steering wheel and replace it with something more comfortable.
    Took a bit of effort getting the adapter/spacer stuff sorted out and ended up re-drilling and tapping the holes to get everything cleaned up.

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    I removed all of the 8.8 brackets to get it ready to go to the driveline shop. Once there, i find out that the inner pinion bearing race had been mangled at some point in the past and had messed up the housing. I didn't want to risk this causing me issues later so i opted to replace the housing with another one.....which means i had to clean up all of the brackets....again.

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    "new" housing with center section ready to go. Now I've got to skin off the brackets and get this down to MikeH's house to weld up the perches.

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    Now to the most recent changes!

    This is where i started....

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    All of the old stuff came off easily....which i'm very thankful for....I love rust free cars!

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    Performed the 'Shelby Drop' and test fitting parts.

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    Ran into a minor snag on the brakes with the rotor rubbing the edge of the caliper. Talked to Baer and they've seen it a couple of times before with the TCP knuckles.
    They've dropped some shims in the mail and I'll revisit the rubbing this weekend.

    But at the end of the day I just wanted to loose fit it all together and see what I'd be working with once it was done......
    I'll be satisfied with the end result. I keep walking by it in the garage and staring....

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    Kris - Building the poor man's, wife-approved '68 Mustang.

  20. #20
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    Nice! Very good foundation of a great mustang!

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