Mopar TF904 HELP

[predator1082]

I have a '70 challenger with a TF904 that supposedly has around 5k miles on the rebuild. I was driving it, using the slap stick (but not super aggressively) and the transmission locked up. I down shifted to 2nd and the car worked. It worked in first... Third still no go. I parked it thinking it might be hot. After a bit I started the car and all gears were locked up (including N). I had to drop the drive shaft to load it on a trailer.

So I get it home jack it up, pull the pan... All the linkage looks and seems to function properly... I turned the drive shaft and it will only turn one direction in all gears (Including N, park does not turn in any direction). There is a little junk in the pan, but no huge chunks or anything metallic...

I did not notice any slipping or irrational behavior before this happened...

Thanks.

[72BBSwinger]

Im betting the front band is to tight, in second the band holds the front drum, when it shifts to third that band releases and the front clutches in the front drum apply. If the band is tight it will act like hitting the brakes going to 3rd. Cant remember the exact steps but adjusting the front band is easy, you tighten the adjuster to like 60 in/lbs and back it off like 1/2 to one turn then torque lock nut.

[predator1082]

Thanks for advice.

I checked it yesterday and the adjustment screw is completely frozen in place. It's so tight in there that to free it up I'm gonna have to drop the transmission. Honestly I hate this transmission and have a feeling that even if I can get it freed up it's gonna need a rebuild. If I'm putting money into transmissions I'm just gonna do a manual swap.

I was really hoping it was going to be something easy and not a wallet buster that would get me back on the road... But I would have no luck at all if i didn't have bad luck...

[predator1082]

So ended up having to crack her open and your cause was correct... Your reason was not... The reality was SOO MUCH WORSE...

The band had seized itself to the drum and the drum was scored all to hell...

110828

Thanks for help, but this one is looking like a boat anchor...

[FASTURN]

If you plan on rebuilding get hold of CRT transmissions, they are mostly MOPAR trans parts dealer, have used them in the past on a similar problem I had. They have all kinds of updated heavy duty servos and clutch disc, bands etc. to rebuild it the correct way for performance use. Have good tech advice. Also A&A transmissions is a good source as well but have not bought anything there but have gotten part advice from them.

[predator1082]

Thank for the tip. I decided to use the money to do a manual swap. Found an A-833 OD unit for a couple hundred on CL that I'm gonna clean up and swap in.

111397

So I will now be bugging the manual guys trying to figure out how to get that accomplished.

Any one know if there is any value to a 904 core? Not being a 727 I figure it's pretty much a boat anchor at this point.

[High Plains Mopars]

Thank for the tip. I decided to use the money to do a manual swap. Found an A-833 OD unit for a couple hundred on CL that I'm gonna clean up and swap in.

So I will now be bugging the manual guys trying to figure out how to get that accomplished.

Any one know if there is any value to a 904 core? Not being a 727 I figure it's pretty much a boat anchor at this point.

Since that is a factory OD trans, you might want to have it checked out by a local shop, unless you were able to drive it prior to purchase. The aluminum cases on those were notorious for wallowed out counter shaft bores. They can be sleeves and rebuilt if it is, but it adds cost to the conversion. Also, since those OD cases only came in A and F body cars, are you sure its long enough for use in your Challenger? Chrysler typically had two lengths in manual transmissions; short for A and F bodies and long for B and E bodies.

To swap you will need the clutch/brake pedal assy, all the linkages, shifter and rods, trans tunnel and carpet along with a few wiring tid bits, if you want to keep it factory looking, as well as all the clutch parts. I use Brewers Performance for these parts on my cars. Typical auto-manual conversion runs about $3500 for everything, but if you found a trans and bell for a few hundred, you can knock a grand and a half off that total.

Value of the core... not much, even if it was a 727. Chrysler made millions of those two transmissions. The 904s use less power to spin and can be built to hold up to high power. 727 are simple brutes that will stand up to huge abuse.

[predator1082]

I tried to make sure everything was kosher on the tranny before I bought it as far as sizing goes. It has the double shifter mounts and is 27" from case face to tail. I believe it is from an 80ish truck... I was aware of the possible wallowing issue with the 3rd gear OD and had planned to have it inspected. A rebuild would set me back around $400ish (as long as no major parts are damaged) so I haven't decided if I'm going that route or just gonna use the money saved to invest in some tools... (mmmmmm PRESSSSS!!!!!!!!!)

My plans are to go with a hydraulic clutch setup and I know I can get pedals and tunnel mod from they typical restoration sources and clutch and pressure plate from typical performance shop. It came with shifter and linkages... I will need new linkages as these were for the forward shifter location. It has an oldschool hurst shifter, but a truck shifter handle (though I would LOVE a pistol grip I'm not sure its worth the $$$)... So I will have to do something there... or drive like I'm in an Ed Roth cartoon...

Though just buying a kit and not having to round up all the parts would be nice I just CANNOT justify prices on swap from places like brewer... $4000 (maybe $2500 since I don't need tranny or bell housing)?!?!?!?!?!?! that is 1/5 of the total cost of my car... and its not like I'm getting a T-56 or even a 5 speed out of the deal...