1969 Mustang 4 link rear suspension

[cj58]

I have a 1969 Mustang, I want to improve the handling and ride, and have height adjustment. I have read that some have increased rear end noise. I'm looking at 4 link rear suspensions. There are a few to choose from, I'm looking at Rod & Custom, Heidts, TCI, and ridetech, is there one that's better than the rest.

[Red67Mustang]

All are likely to be basically equal. Other options include a 3-link. I'm running the one from www.streetortrack.com and it's been fantastic. IMHO the 3-link technology is better due to less ability to bind. Fox Mustangs came with 4-links forever, but then Ford upgraded to the 3-link just prior go going full IRS. Food for thought.

[cj58]

I have the Streetortrack front suspension. I thought about there rear but there site says you get rear end noise, and with 1969 you have to cut out and install a trunk box. I have a Mach1 I'm not sure if the FB would be the same as the notch back. What year do you have, do you get rear end noise, and did you have to install a trunk box.

[Red67Mustang]

1967, no trunk box, very minor pinion noise - due to the use of Rod Ends, not the suspension design. I suspect any suspension system will transmit noise with rod ends replacing the rubber bushings.

[M4nt00th]

@Red67Mustang - I have a question about your street or track 3 link. How low can you get your ride height? It seems the trunk floor will limit you from really going low. I love the street or track stuff and am leaning that way for my own build. It has been a little hard to get anybody's real world opinion on true performance, feel etc. Any input would be much appreciated.

[latoracing]

I have purchased an entire suspension system from SoT, including a full floater housing for my 70 FB build. The 69-70 cars have a higher wheel arch and in order to get them to be really low, the "dog house" that is installed in the trunk area is unfortunately needed. The upper 3-link attachment point on the rear end gets a little cozy with the stock sheet metal at a really low ride height. You can run without cutting your stock sheet metal, but it might contact at some point. The supplied part gives about an extra inch of clearance vertically. I guess it all depends on what size tire and wheel combo, actual ride height desired, and what types of mods are you comfortable making to the car. I shopped for a suspension SYSTEM for over a year, before deciding to buy from Shaun, and haven't regretted the decision. This particular system is far more capable than anything I might throw at it. I am still building my ride, but the reviews and seeing these SoT equipped cars in person, you will not be disappointed. If you have any questions, give Shaun a call and talk to him yourself. He is extremely personable, and will take the time to point you in the right direction.

Mike

[M4nt00th]

Mike, thanks for the reply. I am wanting to run 18" wheels with about a 26" tall tire height. I don't mind doing some cutting on my little coupe to get the desired ride height. One can get caught up in the "who makes the best" debate. I just want to thrash on my car, have fun and buy a system that will last. I have heard nothing but good about Shaun and his products. Thanks again and have fun with the build.
Matt

[latoracing]

Matt,

There are so many fantastic suspension manufactures these days, it is extremely difficult to decide on just one. Not wanting to piece mill a suspension together and use something that the company has engineered to work together, I shopped TCP, Maier, DSE, ridetech and a bunch of others before deciding SoT. Not saying that they are the best, but the system offered me the level of components at a great price, and have fantastic customer service. I am running a 26" tall tire, and will have a fairly low ride height, once it is ever on the ground, along with some "minor" modifications. I hope you find a great company to deal with, and helps make your build what you want it to be.

Mike

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

A '69 Mustang you say? You need it to do lots of different driving? We can do that!

Check out This Build Album on our Facebook page. Bob's TCP Equipped coupe has done track days AND drag week.

You can find a lot of info on the g-Link and g-Bar systems HERE and HERE.


Photo © Brandon Gillogly 2014

[Red67Mustang]

@Red67Mustang - I have a question about your street or track 3 link. How low can you get your ride height? It seems the trunk floor will limit you from really going low. I love the street or track stuff and am leaning that way for my own build. It has been a little hard to get anybody's real world opinion on true performance, feel etc. Any input would be much appreciated.

M4nt00th; I am able to bottom out my shocks on the bump stops (springs removed) without the suspension parts hitting the car anywhere. I did this when installing the 3-link last winter. I'm running 17" wheels - which could have used about another 1/2" to 3/4" of backspacing because at fairly substantial compression I get a slight rub in the rear (tire on wheel well - not related to suspension design). To remedy it I am actually running about 1" higher than Shaun recommends.

The ride height per the 3-link install manual seems to be about 1/2" vertical dimension between the tire and the wheel arch (these two items should not be in the same plane). The top of the tire will stuff up into the wheel arch under compression.

Bottom line; it's a pretty low ride height, which I assume is partly how it proves handling so much.