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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Posts
      165

      Welding Nuts - OK Fab guys, chime in.

      I frequently weld nuts behind a bracket, braces, or to conceal it (perhaps in the frame). I usually weld all sides of the hex to the part, but perhaps I seem to over do it. I am concerned about the heat and temper of the nut from welding but also the strength restricting of the nut when you crank on the bolt that goes with it (stops it from spinning). Here is a commercial seatbelt blind tab. They only weld a few of the corners. It looks too light in the weld department to me but I am not sure.




      What are your guys thoughts? Any articles?
      Attached Images Attached Images  


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      look at the welds on the nut to the plate. That's not going to hold anymore than if you had put the same amount of weld on the piece your currently welding a nut to. It looks like spot welds at most. I would think what your currently doing is ok, or put only the spot welds you see in the picture on your piece.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,217
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      Do not forget that the proper application of a bolt is to provide a clamping load. They are to squeeze different pieces together with such force that they cannot move. The welds just need to hold that nut in place, let the fastener work the way it should and clamp down the load. Something to keep in mind is that a 1/2 inch bolt torqued to 100ft/lb provides 10,000 pounds of clamping load.
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Posts
      165
      Thanks. I imagine that the big question is how much of a weld will it take to hold 100ft/lbs of torque. Putting heat into the nut bothers me also. I usually start with a hardened nut but dont know if that makes any difference after the weld heats it up.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,358
      Country Flag: Canada
      Yes heat will effect the nut...as a fabricator anytime I've built something engineered or not the drawings have never asked for anything more then 2 or 3 wrench "flats". it's worth the few minutes to also run a tap thru the nut after its cooled it will help clean it the threads as the heat will slightly distort the threads...good luck
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter ... soon to be revived ...
      On Instagram ryanaustinss70

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Texarkana, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      Flange nuts are good to use for this purpose, gives you a little bit more area to weld on.
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Posts
      88
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't know guys, I have always just screwed the bolt into the nut. Then welded the nut. Let it all cool and the bolt comes out with ease. I've not ever had to chase a thread after doing it this way.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
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      2,358
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by IMPALA MAN View Post
      I don't know guys, I have always just screwed the bolt into the nut. Then welded the nut. Let it all cool and the bolt comes out with ease. I've not ever had to chase a thread after doing it this way.
      Yes you are correct, I should have stated that sometimes it isn't feasible in a work environment. I.e stainless stuff or if there is a bunch of pieces with numerous nuts to be welded. It then can sometimes be cheaper to chase the threads with a "speed" tap on a cordless drill
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter ... soon to be revived ...
      On Instagram ryanaustinss70

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
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      Quote Originally Posted by ImpalaDude
      I have always just screwed the bolt into the nut. Then welded the nut. Let it all cool and the bolt comes out with ease. I've not ever had to chase a thread after doing it this way.
      Me too. The most important thing to do is let it completely cool down. If you get impatient and try and remove the bolt while still hot, you can cause the threads to gall. Especially with aluminum or SS.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro




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