Ridetech Truturn with other companies A arms ???

[69ridetech]

Has anyone had any luck using The RideTech TruTurn system and their coil overs with other manufactures A arms. I have already purchased a set of Scorpion A arms. Hope I can Use them. Thanks

[bret]

Has anyone had any luck using The RideTech TruTurn system and their coil overs with other manufactures A arms. I have already purchased a set of Scorpion A arms. Hope I can Use them. Thanks

Will it fit?
Maybe...probably.

Will the Tru Turn system work as we intended it to?

Who knows?

IF those arms have the exact same balljoint placement as the RideTech arms [optimized for castor, balljoint re-centering, and alignment optimization] they might be...OK. If they are made from as high quality materials and welding processes as the StrongArms they might even live a long happy life.

I am not familiar with Scorpion...possibly they have researched these issues thoroughly and can offer some answers. [with the documented engineering data to back them up] If not then you will need to invest some time into checking bumpsteer curves, ball joint bind, caster alignment, material choices, welding processes, coilover mount placement, powdercoating quality, bushing material, and cross shaft design to make sure the complete system will function as you expect it to.

[killer69]

OR buy the RideTech control arms and move forward.

[Rod]

"Scorpion" never heard of them...have a link to there site, or pictures of the arms? or specifications on the parts

[Schwartz Performance]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/161185370769?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true

It's the mobile link but you should still be able to view it on a PC- it's some Chinese made arms, assembled by hundreds of scorpions I imagine, since they're cheap.
-Dale

[Rod]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/161185370769?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true

It's the mobile link but you should still be able to view it on a PC- it's some Chinese made arms, assembled by hundreds of scorpions I imagine, since they're cheap.
-Dale

HOLY crap! now there putting decals on 100 dollar arms and reselling them like there special, no I didn't STUTTER....125 bucks from the whole-seller (that's what i paid), its simple the ball joints SUCK, the cross shafts are just chrome plated bar stock, welded by guys like this....do you think these guys give a **** if you die on the freeway at 80 mph?? .......just saying

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/kunmingwelders_zpsfc1b8d90-1.jpg

[69ridetech]

103771103770103772That's them Dale. I bought them off ebay back before I ever heard of RideTech. I have all ready bought the RideTech rear 4 link and the HQ shock, DSE mini tubes. I think I'm going to try and sell the A arms and buy the strong arms, Truturn system , and HQ coil overs. Then I don't have to worry about compatibility between parts. Would like to share some pic of my project on here but can figure out how to put them on here. Thanks for all the replies.

[69ridetech]

I guess I did figure it out. sorry for the HUGE pics.

[Schwartz Performance]

Lol @ Rod...

I looked at their Chevelle arms and it says they've sold quite a few. "X available / xx Sold"

To most people, tubular arms are tubular arms. That's probably what the OP thought too. Now he's edumacated!!

-Dale

[bret]

Nice project, nice work. Proud to be a part of your project!

[69ridetech]

Thanks Bret, I bought the A arms about 8 months ago and before I heard of RideTech when I bought the car. I have always been into muscle cars and Drag racing. Pretty much anything with an engine. I have always done must of the work myself . I have restored a few cars I am almost 50 now. So I'm not new to this, just new to the Pro Tour aspect of car world. I really got hooked at the Columbus Good Guys this year when I got to see the auto cross up close and meet the guys at the RideTech Stand. I'm hooked on this look. That is the direction I am going with my 69 Camaro. I want the car setting low but not so low I can't enjoy the car on the street. I have a LS1/auto out of a 2002 Camaro that I plan on putting heads,cam and headers on. I'm not made of money so I got to do this in stages. Thats kind of why I bought the A arms not really knowing all the facts. These will be selling on craigslist if anybody is interested. LOL.

I have a question Bret. From what I researched the Holley 302-2 will not work with the TruTurn. I have read it hits the pan at full lock. The Holley 302-1 works fine with plenty of room but you have to notch the factory cross member for it to fit. Can you shed some light on this for me ?

[bret]

I'm not intimate with the part numbers...I will investigate. I know we use the Holley pan on the 48 hr camaro but not sure of the part number.

[regal454]

I have a question Bret. From what I researched the Holley 302-2 will not work with the TruTurn. I have read it hits the pan at full lock. The Holley 302-1 works fine with plenty of room but you have to notch the factory cross member for it to fit. Can you shed some light on this for me ?


I have the Holley 302-1 oil pan and I did have to notch my front crossmember 3/4" for clearance. This is with the Detroit Speed engine mounts. I have the complete Ridetech. Front suspension with Tru Turn and it does clear the oil pan. Hope this helps.

[dhutton]

I don't think the 302-2 pan was even available when the 48 hour Camaro was built. It is a relatively recent product released in Dec. 2013. 48 hour Camaro was built in May 2011 as near as I can tell.

Don

[69ridetech]

Thanks Marc and Don. Good to know. Could you post a picture of the cross member Marc. Thanks.

Does anyone have any pics of a cross member that has been cut for the 302-1 pan?

[MCB Matt]

OR buy the RideTech control arms and move forward.

Spoken like the true blake i know!

Speedtech and Ridetech both make great, proven and beat to $h1t arms, it's not a good part to "chance" it on!

Matt

[MCB Matt]

When they first came out the big boys were paying $99/ set of 4! They were so pathetic looking... I would hate to ship that to a customer!

They held steady at about $500 for a while then dropped quick into the $300's and now I saw them in the high $200's... What a sad deal... No $ to really be made by US workers and a high liability to sellers..

Doesn't add up on my calculator!

Matt

[BMR Sales]

HOLY crap! now there putting decals on 100 dollar arms and reselling them like there special, no I didn't STUTTER....125 bucks from the whole-seller (that's what i paid), its simple the ball joints SUCK, the cross shafts are just chrome plated bar stock, welded by guys like this....do you think these guys give a **** if you die on the freeway at 80 mph?? .......just saying

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/10/kunmingwelders_zpsfc1b8d90-1.jpg

I love it Rod! I might have to Quote you!

[Rod]

When they first came out the big boys were paying $99/ set of 4! They were so pathetic looking... I would hate to ship that to a customer!

They held steady at about $500 for a while then dropped quick into the $300's and now I saw them in the high $200's... What a sad deal... No $ to really be made by US workers and a high liability to sellers..

Doesn't add up on my calculator!

Matt

yep when I was at the speed shop (Gotellis) I bought some for 125 bucks thru our wholesaler to tryout.... I have seen them retail on eBay for 249 bucks! crazy that some will risk there lives on cheap arms and spend 4000 bucks on rims?.....

[MCB Matt]

yep when I was at the speed shop (Gotellis) I bought some for 125 bucks thru our wholesaler to tryout.... I have seen them retail on eBay for 249 bucks! crazy that some will risk there lives on cheap arms and spend 4000 bucks on rims?.....

Haha, yea, if you can't do real arms I usually recommend a good close inspection of the stock arm lower ball joint pockets for cracks, freshen them up with new ball joints and bushings of choice and G mod or tall spindle, tall ball joints, whatever fits the budget... Even though I am not a fan at all of stock arms, I will take them over the mystery arms!

However, I have seen too many guys go all out on stock arms with Moog or tall ball joints, delrin or Del-A-Lum bushings, offset cross shafts, powder coating, ect.. They are so close to a brand new set of fully engineered, brand name, stronger and safer tubular arms that offer benefits you can't get from stock arms!

Not to mention the look, added value and comfort you get knowing you have true quality arms under your car no matter the driving situation.. It would be far worse to have one snap on the freeway than on the track, at least on the track it's most likely just you and your car in trouble, not other innocent people and their familys!!

But, that's just my opinion, we all have one. When it comes to MORALS as a retailer... That's obviously a different story, we see it up close everyday as an ebay seller especially!

We sleep well at night with the product lines we carry and that's what matters to Kim and I.

[regal454]

Thanks Marc and Don. Good to know. Could you post a picture of the cross member Marc. Thanks.

Does anyone have any pics of a cross member that has been cut for the 302-1 pan?

I tried to take a pic of my crossmember but they didn't turn out well, sorry. After looking at it closer, it is probably only notched about 1/2" deep. The notch is only under the middle 80% of the oil pan. The bottom of the pan is rounded so it only interfered in the center portion of the crossmember. Honestly, you can't even tell the crossmember is notched with the engine in the car. I actually welded the piece of the crossmember I cut out back in so the factory stamped hole is in the same location. If you have a welder and some scrap steel, it's a pretty quick and easy modification.

[69ridetech]

Thanks Marc. I'm going with the 302-1 pan and notch the cross member . I would rather have the extra room for the TruTurn

[Jeff0547]

First of all, it’s now almost July, 2016, I’m a serious NOOB & I’m working on a ’65 Buick Special wagon. I was going to use original type control arms and disc brakes harvested from a ’71 Skylark.
So, suddenly I read about something called Pro-Touring and tubular control arms. Then I read about Cheep Chinese Junk on e-bay and a company called Ridetech, which makes better stuff. Then, just to further confuse myself even more, I read the name “Scorpion A arms” which no one is familiar with. Continuing to read, I see prices of $99, $500, $300, $125, $249, etc.
So here are my questions. Who is Scorpion? If I buy Ridetech tubular control arms, do they come “loaded”? And what other parts do I need to buy from Ridetech to insure that everything works together? How much will a set of Ridetech Tubular Control Arms cost today (6/26/16)?
I’m sure that I will have more questions, but this will get me started. Thanks for any info you guys can share.
(BTW, I’m just a NOOB to pro-Touring. I’m 69 years old and have been working on cars for the better part of 50 years.):dunno:
Jeff

[bret]

First of all, it’s now almost July, 2016, I’m a serious NOOB & I’m working on a ’65 Buick Special wagon. I was going to use original type control arms and disc brakes harvested from a ’71 Skylark.
So, suddenly I read about something called Pro-Touring and tubular control arms. Then I read about Cheep Chinese Junk on e-bay and a company called Ridetech, which makes better stuff. Then, just to further confuse myself even more, I read the name “Scorpion A arms” which no one is familiar with. Continuing to read, I see prices of $99, $500, $300, $125, $249, etc.
So here are my questions. Who is Scorpion? If I buy Ridetech tubular control arms, do they come “loaded”? And what other parts do I need to buy from Ridetech to insure that everything works together? How much will a set of Ridetech Tubular Control Arms cost today (6/26/16)?
I’m sure that I will have more questions, but this will get me started. Thanks for any info you guys can share.
(BTW, I’m just a NOOB to pro-Touring. I’m 69 years old and have been working on cars for the better part of 50 years.):dunno:
Jeff

Welcome to the site...and to the world of making your old car drive better than a new Corvette!

The first question I always ask is: What are tou going to do with your car 80% of the time?

You may or may not want to invest in tubular control arms, depending on what your intentions for the car are.
What I would reccommend AGAINST would be spending money on inferior quality arms. At best, you'll gain nothing for your money. At worst, they may not fit, they may not be durable or reliable. I want you to see 70 :)

[Jeff0547]

Thanks for the response, Bret.
I'm probably grossly over-stepping my expectations. Mostly I just want to drive it locally. I'm not looking to ralley or road race.
I had a similar car when I was a teenager and wanted to re-live some of my youth. My biggest complaint with the mid 60s A-bodies is that with 4-wheel drum brakes, you have to plan ahead to stop, from 50mph. The factory disc brakes from the early 70s are much better, but by no means as good as modern cars. I actually like the way the old A-bodies drive.
If I want to drive something that handles a little better, my wife has a 2015 Kia Optima and I can come down a freeway off-ramp at 65 or 70 with no effort.
Certainly if I was going to buy suspension pieces, I would want the best. My safety and the safety of my passengers and other drivers are of utmost importance, to me. Thanks for helping me get my head on straight, again. Oh, and I want to see 70, too (only 315 days :bananna2:).

[MCB Matt]

We can help you achieve your goals for the car. We are a distributor for Ridetech and others. Please send me a PM with a little more detail on what you would like to achieve and if you have a ball park budget in mind.

Let me know if we can help you out.
Thanks
Matt

[Twentyover]

I'd suggest you slow down and read
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/98063-Need-a-little-help-figuring-something-out
Lance started trying to solve a problem and ended up with a car that can knock heads with the best of them.

I've also spent a ton of money on suspension parts, but I just bougfht a second front subframe for my car to see how i can optimize what I have vs throwing money at the problem.

[bret]

Thanks for the response, Bret.
I'm probably grossly over-stepping my expectations. Mostly I just want to drive it locally. I'm not looking to ralley or road race.
I had a similar car when I was a teenager and wanted to re-live some of my youth. My biggest complaint with the mid 60s A-bodies is that with 4-wheel drum brakes, you have to plan ahead to stop, from 50mph. The factory disc brakes from the early 70s are much better, but by no means as good as modern cars. I actually like the way the old A-bodies drive.
If I want to drive something that handles a little better, my wife has a 2015 Kia Optima and I can come down a freeway off-ramp at 65 or 70 with no effort.
Certainly if I was going to buy suspension pieces, I would want the best. My safety and the safety of my passengers and other drivers are of utmost importance, to me. Thanks for helping me get my head on straight, again. Oh, and I want to see 70, too (only 315 days :bananna2:).

I think you are the definition of a Streetgrip customer. http://www.ridetech.com/store/streetgrip

we could sell you a more elaborate and more expensive suspension system, but I would rather counsel you to invest that extra money into seats, brakes, steering box, or tires. You'll be happier and you'll enjoy our suspension system more. Be sure to take a look at the tech videos on that link.

[MCB Matt]

I think you are the definition of a Streetgrip customer. http://www.ridetech.com/store/streetgrip

we could sell you a more elaborate and more expensive suspension system, but I would rather counsel you to invest that extra money into seats, brakes, steering box, or tires. You'll be happier and you'll enjoy our suspension system more. Be sure to take a look at the tech videos on that link.

That is the kit I had in mind for him as well. The price is right and the ride/handling is great! I love the kit on our 66!

Matt

[dhutton]

If those 71 Skylark lower control arms have oval bushings be prepared to buy another set with round bushings if you go with the Ridetech Street Grip package. For some unexplained reason the rear of my 71 Cutlass sat 1.75" higher than the Ridetech 70 Chevelle with the same springs. Finally gave up and went with UMI rear springs. Ridetech tried but was unable to diagnose or fix the rear ride height of the Cutlass. The Ridetech springs were 2" taller than the stock springs I removed and the UMI springs despite having roughly the same spring rate. End result was a 250 pound preload on the Ridetech springs according to my amateur calculation...

Don