95 OCD Mustang Cobra #1 Contender

[PANTYEATR]

BACK IN JANUARY 2012
I decided to make a project log to show my progress since it's coming up to
almost a year since i took ownership of my first mustang, V8 car and RWD
car.

I'll just post some before pics and give a description of how I got
the car, the condition I got the car in and what I had to do to get it to the
point in the after pics.

I found my 95 mustang GT in a NY craigslist ad
while visiting my family for the 4th of July. the guy wanted $2000 for it, so I
contacted him and asked if he was interested in a straight up vehicle trade, his
stang for my 2000 Volvo C70 which I had customized. I directed him to my Orlando
craigslist ad and without even seeing the car in person he said that he wanted
it!

100401 100402 100403

I drove to the Bronx, checked the stang out and it was in very bad
shape.
it wouldn't stay running (later found that the PIP was
broken and bouncing around int he dizzy)
ignition module smoking and sparking
spark plugs weren't gapped
the passenger side door window didn't roll up or down
the headlights worked sometimes
both door panels were busted and wood-screwed together
the oil dip stick and tube was broken so the oil couldn't be checked
the A/C didn't work
the HAVC vent doors didn't switch positions
the windshield was cracked
the front and D/S rear parking brake cables were broken both
both air bags were blown
the key only worked in the ignition and for no other locks
the D/S headlight was glued in with roofing tar
grill running horse was missing
2 radiator deflectors on the front bumper were missing
the pics will explain why there was so many electrical issues.
later found out the engine wasn't bolted in and resting on the P/S header.
tranny loosely bolted in
MAF sensor was dirty
throttle body was caked with dirt and oil
IAC was dirty
TPS not properly calibrated
2" exhaust tubes hacked
into the 2.25" factory exhaust and rotting cherry bomb vortex mufflers

it was my will to drive this car 1100 miles from NY to FL and make it so
I can nurse it back to health cause It was 4 wheels in the grave. I made it to FL
2 towns away from home before both front wheels blew out since the previous
owner didn't get an alignment. 2 days later the T5 locked up and only would go
into 3rd gear since the previous owner used gear oil instead of dextron. I
swapped in a T5 from a V6 mustang and within 2 weeks I had the stang running like a champ.10040710040910041010041110041210041310041410 0415100416100417
100405

[PANTYEATR]

here are some after pics with the wires correctly repaired, and some small painting done and repairs to most of the damaged equipment.

my ultimate goal is to restore this car that i have been lusting for since i was 16 yrs old back to factory 1995 specs and then convert it into a white S351 saleen clone.

i will be adding more pics to this log as my progress moves on, so look out for my updates. it took me 17 years to finally get this car and i'm gonna work my magic on it like only i can

thanks for looking

[PANTYEATR]

well i have the exhaust system in and the car is running....barely.

first off let me say that the install of long tube headers is a nightmare! you have to unbolt the motor mounts, take the starter off, take the steering shaft apart at the rag joint, remove the smog thermactors, the intake, raise each side of the engine to snake the long tubes in, get the gaskets to stay put while you tey to bolt them in with the ver short BBK header bolts.

then to make matters worst i had a weird H-pipe for long tube headers that had hangers in the wrong place and 2 bungs for O2 sensors. the H-pipe lined up with the mufflers, but not with the headers, so some cutting and welding was needed. i have questions for a few things now that the exhaust is in which i will make a new thread for. i will post pics like monday....

[PANTYEATR]

well lets start with today, since thats still fresh in my mind.

i just did a 95 cobra front brake swap and i was pretty professional at it too. i bought

-the 95 cobra master cylinder
-the maximum motorsports cobra install kit ( hard lines to the cobra M/C)
-front cobra brakes and carrier
-all new pins, E-clips and hardware
-cobra caliper re-build kit
-BAER decell front rotors
-hawk pads (blue ones)
-all painted in high temp new ford blue
-russells stainless steel braided lines (3 lines)

the swap was straight forward and everything actually went great. a very nice swap and the brakes feel like all you need to use is 1/2 pedal.

my next upgrade was some subframe connectors that i welded in, but i have no pics cause i didn't paint them new ford blue i also added a bourges soild steering shaft to replace the factoryu shaft and rag joint and what a HUGE IMPROVEMENT!!!! the car goes exactly where you tell it to, just as fast as you tell it! NICE!

then i bought some 2" drop lowering springs from a dude in daytona that were rusted pretty bad and the yellow powdercoat was flaking off, so i took them to the coaters and yes had them coated new ford blue. when i installed them i bought all new urethane isolators and everything. the install was a pain in the a$$, but i got it done and i won't do another one!

with that 2" drop i needed an alighnment bad! since the factory steeing was too far out to fix, i had to get some camber plates. i had them coated new ford blue and gloss black for a color contrast. i think they turned out nice.

now i turned my attention to my smoking, ticking, clacking, thumping, tapping long in the tooth 5.0 engine. i wanted to just get a swap in motor and be done with it, so i bought a $300, 1986 5.0 motor off craigslist that had a custom ground .500 lift cam, comp cams 1.6 roller tip rockers, springs and retainers all in a lightly ported E7 heads......i decided to install some crane full roller rockers that are 1.7s and that messed everything up since the stock forged pistons have NO VALVE RELIEFS, leaving me with no piston-to-valve clearance!

i took the whole motor apart and i'm starting from the begining and learning as i go and getting familiar with my first 5.0....the block and heads are now be-burred, so no cut hands and i opened up the oil drain that goes to the timing set. i alos found some $600 SVO aluminum heads and i ARP the rod and crank bolts. i'm currently waiting for some .30 probe forged pistons to come so i can start the machining.

i also put new doorpanels in since the ones that came with the car had wood screws drilled in by the previous owner cause they broke everything not knowing how to get them off the right way... pics will be taken and added soon...

i replaced the "beat up by NY streets" 2004 cobra wheels with some 2000 saleen knock-offs, soon to be painted white. i also added window tint which is a nice upgrade for florida weather....

i have a bunch of other stuff to put on the car, so i'll try to update as the upgrades happen

[PANTYEATR]

i finally got my engine and parts out of machine shop hell yesterday and i started cleaning and assembling. i would have pics for you guys, but i had a brain fart and forgot the camera at home.

i will take pics and post them. i am building a 306 with 10:1 compression.
well my 306 build starts life as a 1987 block that originally had 1986 internals which i'm told are factory forged pistons and maybe rods as well. i broke the engine down cause the 1986 pistons had no valve reliefs in them which left me with zero piston-valve clearance using 1.7 roller rockers and E7 ported heads.

i was very frustrated with everybody here locally being an expert, telling me what would work and what wouldn't, so i said ***** it!* i'm doing this MY WAY! and to hell with what anybody thought about it, so here we are.

the block was bored out 4.030 to fit my pro power pistons with 10:1 compression and valve reliefs. the rings i chose to use are the total seal MAX SEAL rings, which i had to file fit. i also chose some clievite H main and rod bearings. then i installed ARP main and rod bolts. there will be a moroso 7qt oil pan going on, that i will modify to accept the factory low oil sensor cause i would like to keep it working on my dash.

the cam is "supposedly" a .500 lift that can't be identified by any cam manufacturer. a machinist friend of mine did a measurment and said that it is a .500 lift cam, so that with some 1.7 roller rockers should have a nice thump. there is a torington cam bearing cap installed and clievite H cam bearings.

the block is painted new ford blue and new brass freeze plugs are in. nice and colorful....too bad you won't see much of it once it's all in the car. the oil pump is a HV unit and i still ahve to put the rockwell hardened oil pump driveshaft in. i also used lucas oil treatment as an assembly lube, that stuff is sticky and gets everywhere, but it's good stuff.

[PANTYEATR]

i'm gonna start off with the hard coolant pipes i got from american muscle. it's a very nice kit, nicer than i expected actually. but i wanted to do something a little different with it.

since the upper radiator pipe is the highest point in the system and it is hard to burp, i welded in a 1/8 bung flush at it's higest point for easy air bleeding. then i wanted the pipes to "look" like regular rubber radiator hoses at first glance, so i scuffed them and painted them flat black. the cool radiator clamps i took apart, bead blasted and painted the the springs new ford blue. fancy huh?

i had the SVO heads cleaned and checked for flatness and they needed to be decked .004 and man they looked like mirrors! then i installed the timing set and roller rockers and thats where i'm at so far.

today i'll be doing some mods to my moroso 7qt pan, so it will accept the "low oil" sensor, moding the coolant pipes cause they are just right for the factory radiator, but not so much for my 4 core radiator

the oil pump is a HV unit and the previous owner had just installed it and used it for 12,000 miles before sitting for a year. but no i didn't blueprint it like i wanted to.... but i do have a bad a$$ rockwell hardened oil pump shaft though

[PANTYEATR]

kinda a small update, but kinda big update, today I started my engine swap. it only took me like 4 - 4.5 hours. tomorrow I will start transferring the accessories from the old engine to the new and fixing some really bad rust and I mean BAD rust! enjoy these few pics and I'll have more as the days go on...

[PANTYEATR]

DAMN! hot rodding is a cold game man! I ran into clearance issues with the clutch cable and this moroso oil pan. the pan's kick-outs didn't leave any room for the cable to enter the bellhousing, so I had to fix that with some cutting and TIG welding.


my control arms have been treated to some urethane bushings and steeda x2 ball joints

the accessory brackets and aluminum pieces have been massaged to delete the stuff not needed like the SMOG pump mounts and all the casting lines. then the pieces were bead-blasted then put on the engine...

then I installed the billet distributor, coil, ford racing plug wires and brackets. I then cleaned and painted the pulleys flat black. the timing is set to TDC and ready to go

[PANTYEATR]

today I worked on the stock strut tower brace. instead of buying one for $160+ I just had to modify the stock one a little bit to work. the major interference was in the upper D/S corner. once you get around that there is a very small point where the bar that crosses from the P/S to the D/S that actually sits on top of the manifold which needs to be flattened a little bit. naturally if you have a intake manifold spacer this will be more drastic.

[PANTYEATR]

my friend Tom Miller that works at Spike Tactical that's customized the hell out of his 2003 twin turbo, Accufab built cobra motor equipped GT and her removed allot of stuff from it when it had 30k miles on it and just put them in the attic. well, his wife wanted the stuff gone and guess who he DONATED the stuff to, yea me. check him out on the cover of August 2014 "Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords".

I have the floor pan carpet, mats, both front seats and a bunch of interior plastics like the radio bezel, all in pristine condition. I took my old driver's seat powered components and installed them in the new passenger seat, so now I have both seats powered with air lumbar SWEET!

I installed everything yesterday, enjoy the pics

[PANTYEATR]

I love the phantom II series. I did make one mistake when installing these gauges though. I didn't look for the 12v power source that dims with the cluster, so they are on with the parking lights.

also, I compared the coolant temp readings on my scan tool to the mechanical gauge and the mech. gauge is 2-4 degrees hotter than what the scan tool is seeing. I thought the thermostat housing would be the best and most accurate location for a temperature reading, so that's where I put it. I have a 180 thermostat installed. could the mech. gauge line be getting heat soak from the engine heat?

the mech gauge reads 220* and the scan tool reads 215* but under that, the two readings are 2-4 degrees off.

I'm thinking a 4 core aluminum radiator wasn't a good idea. maybe there's just too much coolant to keep cool. a 2 core might be better. I also have been playing with the radiator caps 16 and 18 lbs and neither offers any difference. it could also be that I'm running 18 degrees of timing too...

[PANTYEATR]

heres my next upgrade...i'm just waiting for my easy MSD ignition harness from late model to come in and a new ignition coil plug since the previous owner never replaced the missing one.

NEW FORD BLUE!!!!

[PANTYEATR]

ok I'm out of picture space on here, I've reached the 30.00MB limit, so how do I add more pics cause I do have allot more to add...

thanks

[no go nova]

Nice project and mods glad your doing it yourself.

[PANTYEATR]

no go nova, thanks for the kind words and thanks for being my first reply to my thread. if it seems hard to understand that because I have this project log on another mustang forum and I'm trying to transfer it over the best I can. some things I left in, some things that really didn't matter I left out, but I can furnish the link to my original thread where the timeline, set-backs and victories are all in proper time order.

I have allot more to add, but I have reached my 30MB picture limit, so what do I do?

[Dave B]

Wow, you've done a lot to your car. You started with a pretty ragged out Mustang, I'm sure the guy you traded didn't have to think about it much. Nice work!

[bs46488]

Nice work. You started with a pretty beat up mustang.

For the photos, you'll need to switch to a photo host site like photobucket or something.

Can't want to see the finished product.

[PANTYEATR]

thanks guys and yes this thing was beat to hell! 3 wheels in the grave and the body is a rusted mess, but I'll be getting rid of this body for a whole new body. you'll see that with the other pics. I have photo bucket, so I'll use that to get them on here.

[PANTYEATR]

today I had a little spare time, so I took apart my old engine to see why it was in such bad shape. it looks to have had a serious coolant leak in the cylinders and not just #3, but ALL of them! the coolant left a pile of deposits in #3 cylinder the size of an ant hill.

the bearings were down to the copper and so were the mains. I haven't taken the old oil pump apart, but I'm sure it's ugly inside. the stock rocker arms used to have an oil groove in them, but the groove is completely worn out. the crank and cam look to be fine, but i'm still not sure why cylinder #3 was burning oil.

I also looked at the head gasket and the water ports are open in the back and "FRONT" is marked in front. now I know I put my head gaskets on the same way, but the gasket isn't visible at the corners of the lower intake manifold, so I'm still not sure. I'm gonna clean this stuff up and put it on craigslist

100607
100608
100609
100610
100611
100612
100613

[Dave B]

That thing is pooched!

[PANTYEATR]

UPDATE AND BIG ANNOUNCEMENT:

well since I did the repairs to my T5 and bell housing the car is actually driving very well. the fuel rail was stopping the dizzy from turning, so I thought I would have some fun and turned the timing up to 20 degrees advanced and WOW! it was a savage!, but if you shift too soon and load the engine you get detonation, so I turned it back down to 18 degrees and it still feels good, but man that 20 degrees was crazy!

I have a good source for the breakdown of a brand new pro 5.0 shifter, so I can see what mine is missing. so I'll be fixing that soon when I get some pics of the internal workings.

now for the big announcement, I'm going another direction with my restoration with my stang and I won't say yet, but here's a pic to get an idea.

more pics and catalogue soon

100614
100615
100616
100617
100618

[PANTYEATR]

starting off with this unaltered, rust free, accident free, straight , clean tight body seam v6 shell with only 75,000 miles! it's already white and mostly gutted. this thing is CLEAN! there isn't even a bent jacking point or rust in the bolt holes under the body!

my plan, with the help of you guys, is to stitch weld the major seams, brace the hell out of it using stifflers full length sub frame connectors with rocker web support, lizard skin inside and outside of the car with acoustic and thermal barrier, juke and other sound deading materials, and building/extending the engine harness using what I can from the V6 and V8 harnesses for a wire tuck.

first question I have is what are the major seams to be welded inside and outside?

a google search helped some, but not enough and I couldn't find anything SN95 specific. I will try to call saleen or steeda to see if they can give me some blueprints on it.


http://youtu.be/pMspqTX4CPY

[PANTYEATR]

just a small update guys,

I have removed all of the seam sealer and sound deading out of the carcass, from roof to underbody, from front to the trunk. i'll say this, I can see why these cars are pepsi cans. the panels are all spot welded and the gaps are huge that hide behind the seam sealer. i'll try to make a video and post it to show you what I mean. I need to learn how to upload a youtube video in my post.

in a few days, i'll start to grind the seams down to bare metal in preparation of welding. I'm gonna seam weld EVERY seam except for the core support and the trunk area where the tail lights sit in and that's just so if I ever need to do a core support it won't be an act of congress. the trunk area under the striker is very hard to get to, so I will leave it.


http://youtu.be/3BX-BjYND-0

[PANTYEATR]

well guys, here are some pics just showing how clean some of my seams are and how hard some are to get to. the really hard ones to get a tool into for cleaning will be burned in very hot with the MIG like the torque box area.

I also started some of the welding today and man I'm having fun burning all this metal in. I started on the bottom of the car since most of the seams are clean, but as I started welding I noticed spots that I missed with the grinder. i'll get them. I have more grinding to do in the cab of the car before I can move inside there.

anyway enjoy the pics...

100619
100620

[PANTYEATR]

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/seamwelding6-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seamwelding6.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/seamwelding2-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seamwelding2.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/seamwelding3-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seamwelding3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/seamwelding5-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seamwelding5.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/seamwelding1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seamwelding1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/seamwelding4-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seamwelding4.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

here is video 2 of my seam welding. I'm about 3/4 of the way done on the outside of the carcass. enjoy


http://youtu.be/9drwP5bo4HA

AND NOW 2 OF THE MAJOR COMPONENTS HAVE BEEN AQUIRED! YAY!!!

3 more major parts to go and it's on!

if you looked at the IRS and want to know what year it's from, there are 2 clues that give away the year that you can see.

time to save up for the full tilt boogie treatment now...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/99cobraIRS2-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/99cobraIRS2.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/99cobraIRS3-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/99cobraIRS3.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/99cobraIRS1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/99cobraIRS1.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

I have done extensive research on all the IRSs and the one from the 99 cobra is nothing to shy away from. the same thing that breaks the 99 cobra IRS, breaks 01-04 cobra IRS. the 2 things that break these units are soft bushings that allow too much movement and too much HP with slicks.

no matter what IRS you get, it will have to be built up. with that said I'm getting everything I can from full-tilt boogie racing. then a ford racing gear set, 3:31 or a 3:55 to replace the 3:27 that the 99 cobras came with. A ford racing diff cover. A Quaife LSD to replace the trac-lok and powder coating of various parts.

today, the last bit of seam welding was finished and I'm kind of happy cause I was getting bored with it. I wanted to move on to another part of the project. we all know what the spare tire area looks like in the trunk.

what I plan on doing is increasing the capacity of the fuel tank and still have it look and work like factory. instead of building the tank deeper and lower, I'll be building it up into the spare tire well area.

that will allow me to service the fuel level sender and fuel pump without dropping the tank, out of the bottom. it will allow me to carry more fuel, I bet more than the 21 gal. that's in the cobra R! the trunk will be flat with bead rolls in it and the tank and will be detachable should I ever need to take the tank out for whatever reason. this will be cool

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fueltankmods7-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fueltankmods7.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltilt2-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltilt2.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltilt2-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltilt2.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fueltankmods4-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fueltankmods4.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fueltankmods3-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fueltankmods3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fueltankmodification10-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fueltankmodification10.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

so, I completely cut out the floor of the trunk instead of trying to build up the parts of the tank that are only covered by the spare tire well.

then I made a template that will be the flat portion of the trunk floor. I also made a
2"x 2" square tube cross member, so I would have a place to mount my fuel filter and new fuel tank straps. I could have used 2 of the long tank straps that come on the mustang, but my buddy was having a hard time getting them for me, so I made them.

to clean up the rear of the trunk I boxed it in and put 2 lips on it for the flat trunk floor panel to be welded to. before I weld it in tho, I will have 2 access panels cut in, so I can service either the fuel pump or the level sender without dropping the tank at all.

the way I plan on increasing the fuel tank capacity is by building the tank going up instead of going down. it will look factory from the outside. I'll build it equal to or slightly higher than the heist point on the tank right now. then i'lll figure out where to relocate the EVAP vent and the filler neck.

it's a good thing I mocked up the IRS cause the cross member was making contact with the upper control arm tab. I notched it out, boxed it back in and there's plenty of room now. I placed the tank in the factory location, so I can figure where the tank straps will bolt in at. that will be done tomorrow.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

[PANTYEATR]

guys this is the time where I turn my attention to the fuel tank. my plan is to increase the capacity from 15.3 gal to over 21 gal. and have it all look factory from the outside of the car.

I planned on doing this by raising the portion of the factory tank that minimized by the spare tire well. since my spare tire well is gone that would leave room for this modification. I needed to also make new mounting points for the tank straps since the ones from the factory are attached to the trunk floor and spare tire well. then to make things simple, I chose to use 2 of the longer tank straps (yes one strap is longer than the other FYI). when I couldn't find another long tank strap I decided to make my own in their image out of galvanized 20ga steel which will be powder coated black later.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

so, I mocked everything up and started building the tank. things were going well until I decided to research "tank baffle design" and found this website by accident....

http://glennsperformance.com/
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/IMG_039820Small_2JPG-1.jpg

that's right, I stumbled on a shop that builds higher capacity aluminum fuel tanks for various years of mustangs, 94-98 included. these tanks are cheaper than getting the fuel safe cobra R tank too. so mission aborted on this one, but when I get this tanks from Glenn's, I'll modify it to fully utilize the space I have now that my spare tire well is gone. I think I could increase Glenn's tank from 22 gal - 30 gal!

I wasted time on this factory tank that could have gone to prepping the body for lizard skin, removing the bushings from the IRS and powder coating parts. I will take more pics tomorrow of where I'm at so far.

[PANTYEATR]

today, I mocked-up the stifflers sub frame connector system. the system is very well thought out and fits very well! I dare say perfect. I put the system together so I can weld the rocker web ends together before I send it to the powder coaters.

the IRS is completely broken down and the factory rubber bushings are gone. all of the factory welding slag was ground off and the forging/ casting lines too. these parts are going to the powder coaters as well. once they come back they will get the full tilt boogie racing treatment.

while everything is out, I'm gonna get the lizard skin coatings both acoustic and ceramic and prep the outside floor pan for that. then once the parts come from the powder coaters, weld in everything and move to the inside of the car with the lizard skin.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

[PANTYEATR]

all I did was build the mounting holes for the rear IRS bracket that goes into the trunk area. there are 2 bolts that do this, the other 2 bolts go into the quad shock bracket holes that are threaded already. the way I'm doing the trunk area will allow everything to be flush with the trunk floor, unlike some ppl that just through bolt through the floor of the trunk and you have nuts and bolts sticking out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

[PANTYEATR]

I built this removable rear strut tower brace according to the mustang performance handbook 2 ,but I did it with a lil more flare than what's in the book. (2) 3/4" heim joints and a 29" long, .095 wall chromoly tube all TIG welded by my me.

the IRS parts that I have, the rear sway bar and STIFFLERS sub frame connector system are at the powder coaters getting the silver and new ford blue treatment.

after these things come back, i'll start prepping the underbody for lizard skin and welding in the trunk floor and subframe connectors. then I can look into getting the Glenn's performance fuel tank....

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

[PANTYEATR]

a small update as I'm waiting for powder coated parts to get back to me. I scored some IRS rear cobra brake rotors that are drilled and slotted. they look like baer units, but I can't find any markings proving so. found them on CL for $90 and they only have 500 miles on them.

so I bead blasted the IRS rear rotors, calipers, caliper brackets and half shafts, then painted everything. new ford blue for the brake parts and silver for the shafts. now they won't ever rust again.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

[PANTYEATR]

I decided to upgrade the cluster lighting and interior lighting with LEDs. I opened the cluster, scrapped the green color tinting off of the backside of the gauge film, inserted some aluminum tape to help reflect the light through the numbers better and installed the LEDs replacing the halogens.

I didn't get any pics of the dome light cause it's hard to take that pic at night, but with the dome light on at night it looks like I don't even have window tint on and I do, one step above limo! it looks like a Florissant light when looking from the outside to the inside...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

[PANTYEATR]

yesterday I picked up my IRS parts from the powder coaters and man the pics don't do it justice! I also had my subframe connectors, rear strut tower brace and rear sway bar done as well. the color is sparkle sky blue + clear powder coat and silver sparkle + clear powder coat. this blue they had was the closest thing to new ford blue, so I went with it. it's a little darker than the new ford blue, but it's close enough to be under the car.

I then painted the rear cobra brake rotors, calipers, brackets with new ford blue engine paint. the axles are painted with engine paint aluminum and cleared with automotive

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]


lastly I made some needed upgrades....well improvements.

I had to buy a new optima battery, it was a 570 CCA yellow top (that I painted new ford blue) and it was only putting out 70A and wouldn't crank the car. I bought a optima red top and perfectly painted it new ford blue with automotive clear on top.

I re-wired my battery cables and terminals cause they looked like butt! then I added a fuel pressure gauge....

with all the electrics ironed out the car is running allot better and maybe another dyno tune is in order...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif[/URL][/IMG]

this is where I currently stand. my gas tank is on the way, so I can finish the trunk floor, modify the tank for more capacity and start my lizard skin.

[PANTYEATR]

just a small update

I have my gas tank from Glenns performance on the way, it should be here next week. it's an all aluminum, 18-22 gallon tank with -10 and -8 AN bungs. once that comes I can finish the trunk area followed by lizard skin.

yesterday I installed the Full Tilt Boogie bushings and grease fittings. they were a pleasure to install and the quality is top notch.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltiltboogieIRS5-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltiltboogieIRS5.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltiltboogieIRS3-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltiltboogieIRS3.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltiltboogieIRS4-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltiltboogieIRS4.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltiltboogieIRS1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltiltboogieIRS1.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/fulltiltboogieIRS2-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fulltiltboogieIRS2.jpg.html)

[pist0lpete]

Dig the build keep up the good work!

[PANTYEATR]

Dig the build keep up the good work!

I'm humbled, thanks so much. I wonder where 95RioRed is an if he's gonna comment on his #1 contender??? :) lol

[PANTYEATR]

today I just mocked up my stifflers subframe connectors that came back from powdercoat. I applied tape to the weld areas on the subframes and the body, so when I do the lizard skin, I won't have to grind through that stuff to get to bare metal in order to weld them in. after they are welded in I will have very small areas to touch-up paint...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/subframemockup-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/subframemock-up.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

LADIES & GENTS, I present the Glenn's performance aluminum stealth tank. this tank is masterfully TIG welded and holds 22 gallons w/o exhaust cut-outs, 18 gallons with the exhaust cut-outs that will allow 3" tail pipes.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12240-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12240.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12256-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12256.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12253-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12253.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12244-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12244.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12242-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12242.jpg.html)

the AN bungs are on the diff side of the tank (-8AN and -10AN) for that stealth factor and the mounting plate is also on the diff side to mount fuel pumps and filters should you choose to do so. internally the sumps, baffling and siphon tubes are all upgraded for maximum fuel control and directing. I also purchased the VDO fuel level sender that will work with the factory cluster.

if you know anything about me up to this point, I cant leave anything alone, so I decided to modify a perfectly good and expensive tank to increase capacity. this tank is made to fit your mustang trunk area with a spare tire well. as you know I deleted the spare tire area and that's where my extra capacity will live.

I started out by mounting the tank in the car to see where I can increase capacity and where the space was to do so. I made my marks and pulled it out for template making. once the templates were made and marked for brake locations, I transferred it to .063 sheet aluminum. then with a 2.5" hole saw, I cut holes for the fuel to #1. be able to drain to the lower part of the to feed fuel sumps and #2. these holes will slow the sloshing of the fuel like a baffle would.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12247-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12247.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12245-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12245.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12248-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12248.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12249-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12249.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12250-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12250.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12251-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12251.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12252-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12252.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12254-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12254.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2014/08/SDC12255-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/SDC12255.jpg.html)

I used the sheet metal brake to make the bends and tack welded the new top on. then I did the end cap and that's how it sits for now. I also plan on re-locating the fuel fill hole that's in the factory location and made to use the factory fill tube grommet, more to the top. that way the fuel won't "click off" once it gets above the fill hole.

enjoy

[andrewb70]

Why are you making the tank bigger? It is already 22 gallons, which is pretty big. Are you going to run endurance races?

Also, the major difference between the early and the 03-04 Cobra rear ends is the use of 31 spline differential and axles in the later rear ends.

Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

Why are you making the tank bigger? It is already 22 gallons, which is pretty big. Are you going to run endurance races?

Also, the major difference between the early and the 03-04 Cobra rear ends is the use of 31 spline differential and axles in the later rear ends.

Andrew

thanks for your question Andrew,

they tank has a window of 18 - 22 gallons. what determines the window is if you are gonna have the exhaust cut-outs or not. I have the exhaust cut-outs cause I'm running the exhaust out the back as normal, which make my tank 18 gallons. now if I was running side exhaust, I wouldn't need the cut-outs and I would have the full 22 gallon capacity.

I'm increasing the capacity because when I drive from NY to FL I don't want to have to fill up so many times and I don't want to fill up so often when I'm home doing normal driving. running endurance races would be cool, I haven't thought of it, but if I decide to do so, the tank will be there.

yes, you are right about the cobra IRS rear ends, but did you know it's only 31-spline on the diff carrier end and still only 28-spline on the hub end? the only thing that breaks these IRSs is soft bushings and parts moving too much or not enough. once you upgrade it with full tilt boogie stuff you are good with any 99-04 IRS.... until you put slicks on it and 800+WHP.

[andrewb70]

I know more about the Cobra rear ends that the average person. I used to be into RX7s and have used the Cobra rear ends. I really hate how the Cobra rear attaches to the cradle. If I was you, I would look into using a rear cover from an Explorer and fabrication a mount that takes advantage of the big mounting bosses in the Explorer cover. That will eliminate the common failure points that you speak of...

Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

I know more about the Cobra rear ends that the average person. I used to be into RX7s and have used the Cobra rear ends. I really hate how the Cobra rear attaches to the cradle. If I was you, I would look into using a rear cover from an Explorer and fabrication a mount that takes advantage of the big mounting bosses in the Explorer cover. That will eliminate the common failure points that you speak of...

Andrew

I will have all the full tilt boogie equipment for the IRS. what do you think about their stuff? will I need this explorer cover if I'm using all of full tilt boogie's stuff?

I also planned on getting the ford racing girdle for the IRS diff which is beefier than the stock piece. is that ok?

[andrewb70]

I will have all the full tilt boogie equipment for the IRS. what do you think about their stuff? will I need this explorer cover if I'm using all of full tilt boogie's stuff?

I also planned on getting the ford racing girdle for the IRS diff which is beefier than the stock piece. is that ok?

It looks like Full Tilt has some nice parts. I am sure that if you don't try to drag race the car, their upgraded diff cover will work fine.

Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

It looks like Full Tilt has some nice parts. I am sure that if you don't try to drag race the car, their upgraded diff cover will work fine.

Andrew

yes, they have some great parts and customer service. the videos on youtube are cool too. i want to over build the IRS even tho i'll never mount slicks on it. i want to build it so i can beat on it and it won't cry...

[Sicarius428]

There are a couple differences. 03-04 had 31 spline on both side and the 99-01 only had 31 spline on one side. The 03-04 also had a reinforced diff brace for the front of the diff that the 99-01 lacked. The 03-04 also sports 3:55 gears. I would suggest mounting the IRS cradle as solid as possible, even with delrin bushings and solidly mount the Diff.
Kevin

[PANTYEATR]

There are a couple differences. 03-04 had 31 spline on both side and the 99-01 only had 31 spline on one side. The 03-04 also had a reinforced diff brace for the front of the diff that the 99-01 lacked. The 03-04 also sports 3:55 gears. I would suggest mounting the IRS cradle as solid as possible, even with delrin bushings and solidly mount the Diff.
Kevin

Kevin you are right about the other differences. the diff brace in the pinion support area, if you look at my pics I have made that update. it just didn't make sense not to.

in my diff, I have the 3.27:1 gears and I have been struggling in my head if I should go with 3.31:1 or just go for the 3.55:1, my struggle is good interstate gas mileage, decent acceleration and "pull" when I go 408W twin turbo...

as for the IRS being 31 spline on the carrier end for all IRSs I'm not sure of, but i'll research again, but I'm sure I read the 99-01 has 28 spline on both ends and the 03-04 has 31 splines on both ends.

I'm sure we all agree that what makes these units weak is the movement of the weaker factory bushings that cause all kinds of movement which break diff covers and axles. thanks for everyone's input, keep them coming. I like learning from smart people every chance I get...

[I_make_oil]

Subbed. Nice project. I especially enjoy your documentation and writing style.

[PANTYEATR]

Subbed. Nice project. I especially enjoy your documentation and writing style.

Awesome! :D

[Sicarius428]

I am interested in knowing about the gears too. I heard that Turbos like less gear if that helps. The difference between the 3:27 and 3:31 isn't much of a difference. You might as well try the 3:27s unless you were planning on rebuilding the diff. I doubt a turbo 408 would have much trouble with torque either way...
Kevin

[PANTYEATR]

FINALLY ANUPDATE: November 2014

so, I have been working on the trunk floor and sewing up pin holes in the aluminum tank.

after no more leaks were found on the tank, the trunk floor was marked for bead rolling and the access panel for the sending unit / EVAP check valve.

beads were laid in to minimize flexing and vibration, which will be further cut down by the lizard skin and carpeting.

then I decided to re-do the rear mounting for the tank straps. this time I used a 2 ft. perforated 1.5" square tube. it worked brilliantly and looks trick. it also has more welds on it to support that possible30 gal. capacity.

next, I will be figuring out the gas filler neck situation cause I have it running a different way now...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141108_142551-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141108_142551.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141108_155255-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141108_155255.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141105_145304-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141105_145304.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141107_153854-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141107_153854.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141107_153931-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141107_153931.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141113_184326-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141113_184326.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141108_155230-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141108_155230.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20141113_184306-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20141113_184306.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

DECEMBER 2014

today I primed the bottom of the stang. I've been advised that it's should be primered before the lizard skin is applied, since it's water based. yes the primer is white and it's a high build epoxy type. once it dries, I will have to scuff it and get the lizard skin sound control on it, then apply the ceramic barrier lizard skin on top. that's the order they have to go on or it won't work correctly.

I'm trying to figure out how to upload a video from my computer and show the prep work I did.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/primer20exterior201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/primer%20exterior%201.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/primer20exterior204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/primer%20exterior%204.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/primer20exterior202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/primer%20exterior%202.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/primer20exterior203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/primer%20exterior%203.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

today I turned my attention to the MACH system... it sounds funny saying that when I don't even have the body finished or one wire or harness in the car yet.

but until my front and rear glass gets pulled, I will have to do something else in the mean time. I had this extra MACH system box and I wanted to use 8" Sony subs in it. a small amount of massaging was done to get them in there. the rear speaker deck will be massaged also to fit the subs and make them look like factory, again, once the rear glass is out tho...

this adhesive company called SEM has this great urethane stuff that has a 5 minute work time and 1 hour cure time. I used it tobuild up areas where there are air gaps or places where is no material for a screw.

I also used some parts of the box that was no longer needed that boxed in the factory amps. that plastic melts easy and was great for making walls. everything was ground down and the screw holds were pre-drilled and one sub was mounted, it turned out better than I thought.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/sub20box201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sub%20box%201.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/modified20mach20system202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/modified%20mach%20system%202.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/modified20mach20system201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/modified%20mach%20system%201.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/modified20mach20system203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/modified%20mach%20system%203.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/sub20box202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sub%20box%202.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

JULY 2015:

so where am I with this car....I have prepped the inside and outside for the white epoxy primer, then I prepped that (with a scotch bright pad) for the lizard skin. I applied 2 coats of the sound control and the thermal barrier. it took almost all of the 2 gallon buckets of each to cover just the bottom. I'll have to get more to spray the inside of the car and the door shells.


before spraying the lizard skin, I seam sealed the body inside and out. I then prepped the sub-frame connectors for welding to the body. the welding isn't done yet due to the welder blowing a transformer. once I get it back, I'll start burning these things in.


I coated the aluminum tank in the lizard skin thermal barrier, just so it won't heat soak the fuel from the road heat. I will add a fuel cooler at some point to cool the fuel from the heat soak from the engine compartment since it will be a return style system.


I'm able to hang around now and make some progress. this was all done in a week, working on it everyday I can. more updates will be coming more often...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150717_155351-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150717_155351.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150720_170827-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150720_170827.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150720_170733-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150720_170733.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150720_170800-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150720_170800.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150730_151151-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150730_151151.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150730_151207-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150730_151207.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150730_151226-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150730_151226.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150725_164339-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150725_164339.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150725_164312-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150725_164312.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150801_155251-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150801_155251.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/08/IMG_20150730_151240-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150730_151240.jpg.html)

[I_make_oil]

Looks good. Your hard work is paying off.

[amoosenamedhank]

Love me some SN95. Please keep the updates coming.

[PANTYEATR]

Semper Fi bro and thanks for the kind words guys.

I measured the volume of the fuel tank after my modifications and it holds 22.5 gallons!...which is odd cause before modifications it was advertised to hold 18-22 gallons. 18 gallons maybe, but it would never hold 22 gal without the mods....

[PANTYEATR]

well guys, sorry for the late update, but I have been very busy with this project and I hate having to upload to photobucket first just to post pics here...

I think I left you where I welded in the Stifflers sub-frame connectors that were powder coated new ford blue. I then turned my attention to the cobra IRS. I took the whole thing apart for powder coating, new ford blue and silver. also to install the "FULL TILT BOOGIE RACING" treatment. I also swapped out the factory trac-loc for the Detroit Locker Tru trac, fully geared LSD.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IRS20diff204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IRS%20diff%204.jpg.html)

while the aluminum diff was empty, I cleaned it and prepped it for a few coats of aluminum paint
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IRS20diff205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IRS%20diff%205.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IRS20diff203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IRS%20diff%203.jpg.html)

all new bearings, races, seals etc. was replaced before I set up the ford racing 3:27 gears backlash and gear pattern. then I sealed everything up with the Ford Racing IRS Girdle.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IRS20diff202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IRS%20diff%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IRS20diff201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IRS%20diff%201.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

so, since my smart phone wanted to dump 316 pictures instead of just moving them to the SD card, I don't have most of the progress pics of the IRS, but as I find them elsewhere, i'll add them.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/PART95144534487614395IMG9520150903951158-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/PART95144534487614395IMG9520150903951158551.jpg.ht ml)
heres the Maximum motorsports front end. it was also powder coated new ford blue. the tubular control arms were left powder coat black. the front spindles were painted with epoxy paint and new Timken hub bearings were installed. maximum motorsports coil-overs and Koni adjustables round off everything.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/PART95144534496478895IMG9520151009951748-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/PART95144534496478895IMG9520151009951748001.jpg.ht ml)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/on20the20ground202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%20the%20ground%202.jpg.html)
I have the caster / camber plates too and i'll upload it for you in a few... I started working on the dash. I took it all apart down to the bare metal frame and decided to powder coat that bright white. just so it doesn't rust anymore and should I have to do some work under the dash, it will be that much brighter to see with a light. I then professionally had the 2 tone painted black and yep new ford blue. the process used made the paint very tough yet flexable. the rear plastics were done as well. the dash harness was cleaned up, re-taped and dielectric greased every plug and grounding point.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/painted20dash201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/painted%20dash%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/painted20dash204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/painted%20dash%204.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/painted20dash203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/painted%20dash%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/painted20dash202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/painted%20dash%202.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

here the inside was lizard skinned with sound and thermal barrier. then the 22.5 gal fuel tank was installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IMG_20150818_171911-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150818_171911.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IMG_20150825_163921-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150825_163921.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IMG_20150825_163902-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150825_163902.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IMG_20150825_163944-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20150825_163944.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/fuel20tank20and20filler204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fuel%20tank%20and%20filler%204.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

the fuel filler was put together in it's final position. it works out well and doesn't intrude into the trunk too bad.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/fuel20tank20and20filler203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fuel%20tank%20and%20filler%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/fuel20tank20and20filler202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fuel%20tank%20and%20filler%202.jpg.html)
here the final primer was sprayed and I know it looks like the final paint, but this is an epoxy base coat that makes an excellent primer. once the car is together and the body work is done, the final paint will be done. doing it this way won't have paint chips looking so bad cause it will be white all the way to the metal.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/final20paint204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%204.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/final20paint202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/final20paint203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/final20paint201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%201.jpg.html)

the car is off the rotisserie and the IRS is installed. it was a job to get this thing in, but it's in there with steelie wheels and finally on the ground YAY!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/on20the20ground203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%20the%20ground%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/on20the20ground201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%20the%20ground%201.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

I had my badges for the car made except for the cobra snake. these are from billet badges and they took me 6 weeks to get! 100% billet aluminum CNC'd to say 6.7 HO...that's a sneak peak into the power plant I plan on building for this buggy. I bead blasted them and painted them to match the color scheme of the body.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/badges203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/badges%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/badges202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/badges%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/badges201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/badges%201.jpg.html)

I turned my attention to the Cervini hood that mimics the 2001 cobra R hood. the vents wasn't functional, so I said F-that! I want functional vents and I made it so...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/vented20hood201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/vented%20hood%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/vented20hood202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/vented%20hood%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/vented20hood205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/vented%20hood%205.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/vented20hood203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/vented%20hood%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/vented20hood204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/vented%20hood%204.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

sound deadening....i sprayed lizard skin into the bare doors and added Stinger Roadkill material. these doors sound like bank vault doors and when you let them sit in the sun they don't even get hot.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/sound20deadening203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sound%20deadening%203.jpg.html)
I laid roadkill in all of the factory locations that had sound deading and jute, then my friend had this crazy idea and i was crazy enough to do it. i cut holes for 2 additional 8" subwoofers and it totally worked out! no structural rigidity was harmed and this car will thump inside.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/sound20deadening201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sound%20deadening%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/sound20system201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sound%20system%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/sound20system202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sound%20system%202.jpg.html)
I built a dedicated ground that bolts to every seat belt bolt from the battery to the rear of the car to a distribution block. the top 4 spots are for 12v power, all others are for grounds.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/sound20deadening202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sound%20deadening%202.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

and now you're all current. i decided to go hydroboost! why? why the hell not? this booster is from a 99 cobra and fits with very little modification.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/hydroboost-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/hydroboost.jpg.html)
this is the rear brake set-up. cobra vented and slotted rotors, Hawk blue street/race pads and stainless steel braided lines all around.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/rear20cobra20brakes-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/rear%20cobra%20brakes.jpg.html)
since the Saleen kit is hard to get anywhere else with great quality, i went right to the source. these have been re-tooled by saleen and my bodyman agrees that these kit parts are way better than they used to be.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/Saleen20body20kit201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20body%20kit%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/Saleen20body20kit202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20body%20kit%202.jpg.html)
i scored this super sweet magnaflow cobra exhaust on ebay for $331! it came off of a wrecked cobra and had minor cosmetic damage that wire wheeled and polished out fine.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/magnaflow20cobra20exhaust-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/magnaflow%20cobra%20exhaust.jpg.html)
and as promised, here are the MM caster/camber plates. powder coated new ford blue for flavor lol
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/IMG_20151106_1653401-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151106_1653401.jpg.html)

i'll try to post more often with updates since i'm moving right along with things....Where is the "OCD 95 Rio Snake guy??? i was hoping he would comment more...

[cbpldc]

Love your attention to detail on this car. It looks like you're purpose building it to be a track killer!

I'm not a huge fan of the SN95 cars because I don't fit in them well (but I fit in the edge Mustangs, go figure!), but the Saleen is my favorite. I had a 2003 Saleen Convertible clone for a while, and they still turn heads like crazy, even at their age.

I'm loving this build and following along. Keep up the good work!

Chris

[PANTYEATR]

Love your attention to detail on this car. It looks like you're purpose building it to be a track killer!

I'm not a huge fan of the SN95 cars because I don't fit in them well (but I fit in the edge Mustangs, go figure!), but the Saleen is my favorite. I had a 2003 Saleen Convertible clone for a while, and they still turn heads like crazy, even at their age.

I'm loving this build and following along. Keep up the good work!

Chris

Chris, thank you. i'm humbled by your kind words

[PANTYEATR]

just a small update:

I went to Amazon hose and had some nice hydraulic lines made for the hydro boost and power steering built.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/hydroboost20lines-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/hydroboost%20lines.jpg.html)

then I fitted the factory speaker box into it's home to see if using the mounting studs would be an issue. I then fabricated steel mesh grills for the subs. everything fits as intended...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/11/sony20sub20box-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/sony%20sub%20box.jpg.html)

[Rantheman]

This a nice project I had a 96 gt that was modified running about 380 hp on the dyno must at least had ten grand into it miss the car don't miss the money pit anyways love what you're doing

[PANTYEATR]

in this update I fit the Saleen body kit. I don't care who you talk to, most body kits do just bolt-on! this one came directly from Saleen's re-tooled molds and required allot of massaging to get the lines tight and a tight fit up to the body. in some of these pics you can see where they actually short changed me and cut too much material on the rear bumper. with the tail lights installed and the trunk open, you can see that discrepancy. i'll have to figure out how to fix that later.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/Saleen20rear20bumper201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%20bumper%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/Saleen20rear20bumper203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%20bumper%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/Saleen20rear20bumper202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%20bumper%202.jpg.html)

the front bumper didn't require as much work, but it did needed additional support, so I added it in those areas. since these pics were taken, I have tightened up the line where the bumper meets the fender...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151203_183522-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151203_183522.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151203_183425-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151203_183425.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151203_183345-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151203_183345.jpg.html)

the rims I have been watching for 2+ years are in. TSW Mirabeau. 20x9 up front, 20x10.5 in the rear. I have them taped up and prepped to be painted the white used on the body. then I 'll wrap them in Michelin pilot sports 265/35/20 and 305/30/20 once painted.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/TSW20Mirabeau201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/TSW%20Mirabeau%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/TSW20Mirabeau202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/TSW%20Mirabeau%202.jpg.html)

I will get some pics of the Saleen spoiler (which took 15 screws, including the 2 supplied, to get it to sit down correctly and mount to the deck lid...smh) and of the doors mounted with the side skirts.

[Z06killinSBF]

This is turning out nice, good work. I've thought many times about getting the Saleen body kit for my 95.

[PANTYEATR]

here's the ******* Saleen spoiler... I say that even though I love it and wanted it. it took like 15 screws to get it flat and contour around the compound curves of the deck lid. I marked the extra holes I had to drill and hole saw to secure this wing. hopefully this will help anybody who gets this thing in the future...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151221_171039-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151221_171039.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151221_171123-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151221_171123.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151221_171214-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151221_171214.jpg.html)

and here is my failed attempt at making a rear diffuser...it's a failed attempt cause I bought some semi-expensive HDPE sheets to make this thing out of in .125 thickness. I should have bought .250 and it would have been allot less flimsy. the front splitter I was working on tonight and might work if I pull it off correctly.

my whole point of making these aero pieces is to "look like" they are the real deal and like they work, but aren't really doing anything. the front splitter will do something, the rear diffuser I want to be the balls just hanging on for the ride doing nothing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151221_171013-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20151221_171013.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

hey guys I need some help...

does anybody know why these cutout areas are on the bottom of the Saleen rear bumper? why are there 2 of these outlines and what is the nature of their purpose??? I emailed Saleen and I haven't received a response back yet...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/IMG_20151221_170424-1.jpg[/URL

[PANTYEATR]

here's my fuelab fuel system, minus one pre-filter to the pump, which should be in tomorrow. fuelab builds some pretty nice stuff and they are stylish too. I have their electronic fuel pressure regulator, 2 fuel filters, one of them have an internal check valve, and their 1000hp fuel pump.

my lines and fittings are -8an, most of the system... a very short part of it had to be -6an.

enjoy
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160105_1508511-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160105_1508511.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160105_1509151-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160105_1509151.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160105_1510261-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160105_1510261.jpg.html)

[Bossed]

You've come a long way, and your progress looks awesome. Keep up the hard work, it's really paying off.

[PANTYEATR]

You've come a long way, and your progress looks awesome. Keep up the hard work, it's really paying off.

I appreciate you Bossed, thank you.

[I_make_oil]

You've come a long way, and your progress looks awesome. Keep up the hard work, it's really paying off.

X2. Good work

[PANTYEATR]

X2. Good work

Ooo Rah Benjy, thanks hard dog!

[Mach1_Ron]

I love the way you've kept the Ford color Scheme throughout. Very painstaking...

[PANTYEATR]

I love the way you've kept the Ford color Scheme throughout. Very painstaking...

thanks allot Ron and yes, it is a pain in the a$$ trying to keep the new ford blue
intergraded through out the build, but i'm trying hard...

[PANTYEATR]

today, my rims were painted the same white that's on the car. I'll be unwrapping these shoes on Monday...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160108_1644341-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160108_1644341.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160108_1644111-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160108_1644111.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

remember these babies???......
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/TSW20Mirabeau202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/TSW%20Mirabeau%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2015/12/TSW20Mirabeau201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/TSW%20Mirabeau%201.jpg.html)

here they are now, gorgeous!
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/twankies201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/twankies%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/twankies202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/twankies%202.jpg.html)

and here is the complete fulab delivery system. I have some binding issues with the fittings, so i'll correct that and take out the mock-up hardware for something nicer...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/fuelab20complete-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/fuelab%20complete.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

yesterday, I wrapped this clock / gauge pod with some 3M D-NOC carbon fiber vinyl and man it was hard! I had to use 2 pieces to get it finished since I don't have the finesse to wrap things with this many compound curves. I wont need it for gauges, so I'm using it for sound system staging. My system will be ALL Sony cause that's what I like. I'm working on the sound system at the moment, so more pics of the sound system build will be coming up soon.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160115_144827-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160115_144827.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160115_144848-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160115_144848.jpg.html)

I was disappointed with the way my rear diffuser came out, it just didn't look right and it looked out of place, so I cut it in half and it looked allot better...but still it looks out of place to me. I did some research on it and for me to make this thing look correct and like it's meant to be, I would need to cut into the bumper some and build from there. I'm gonna get more input on this from some friends and see what I'm gonna do...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160114_123320-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160114_123320.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/01/IMG_20160114_123344-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160114_123344.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

so I have a small update, it's all cosmetic tho...

looking at the 2015 dodge challenger, I really like the tail lights on it with that glowing "light saber" look. after looking at the tail lights closer I noticed that they are frosted with LEDs behind them. that's what I attempted to copy.

I had a piece of tail light lens that was scrap and I frosted it to see if I can pull it off and it worked out great even with the sun light.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/frosted20tail20lights203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/frosted%20tail%20lights%203.jpg.html)

then I started with the 3rd brake light. I cut the factory lens out and cut the clear red lens to shape
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/frosted20tail20lights202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/frosted%20tail%20lights%202.jpg.html)

after gluing the clear red lens on, I started to frost it and mask it so I could paint the glued areas low gloss black. after doing that I checked the light output with a LED flash light and it looks great.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/frosted20tail20lights204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/frosted%20tail%20lights%204.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/frosted20tail20lights205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/frosted%20tail%20lights%205.jpg.html)

the tail lights was next and they turned out good as well, now I have to load these lights up with some nice LEDs once I'm putting the car together. I tested them with 2 LED flash lights...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/frosted20tail20lights206-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/frosted%20tail%20lights%206.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/frosted20tail20lights201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/frosted%20tail%20lights%201.jpg.html)

my cobra center caps I'm very proud of. I wanted them to look like the fender badges I have (which are posted in earlier posts). I had a couple failed attempts since no vinyl place could cut the details of the snake in chrome/reflective vinyl...I found one place that came up with a solution and I couldn't be happier.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/cobra20center20cap-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/cobra%20center%20cap.jpg.html)

lastly this is how the car sits. i mounted Pirelli P-zeros on my wheels with 265/35/20 up front and 305/30/20 in the rear. the white you see on the car is actually primer and not the final paint.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/on2020s202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%2020s%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/on2020s203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%2020s%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/on2020s201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%2020s%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/on2020s205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%2020s%205.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/03/on2020s204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/on%2020s%204.jpg.html)

up next, we'll epoxy primer and paint the Saleen body kit, mount it and then I can transfer all my good stuff from my daily driver into it. oh and I recently purchased some 14" stoptech 4 pot brakes for this thing and I'll have to iron out how to mount them since they are for a 2011-2014 Saleen mustang.

[rfalker1]

this is really cool! keep at it!

[PANTYEATR]

this is really cool! keep at it!

thanks so much, I would like 95Riosnake's input too, but I think he's busy...

[PANTYEATR]

just a small update, so my friends that are professional auto body/collision guys for like 30+ years have been giving me instruction on how to do bodywork. I bought a D.A. sander and got busy. I should be in final paint very soon.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/bodywork201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/bodywork%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/bodywork202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/bodywork%202.jpg.html)

then I have been working on putting together my exhaust system. BBK long-tubes that I welded V-band ends on and a extra set of O2 bungs for tuning. it's followed up by a BBK X-pipe which will also be V-banded once I get everything under the car, followed by magnaflow for the 99-04 cobra.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/magnaflow20exhaust20complete-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/magnaflow%20exhaust%20complete.jpg.html)

lastly I have these big brake parts for sale cause they won't work with my set-up. they are from Stop tech and come off of a 2011-2014 Saleen 5.0 mustang. I have the stainless lines, the caliper brackets to mount the ST40 4 pot calipers, the 14" rotors drilled and the pads that are worn into these rotors and they look almost new! i'm asking $520 on Ebay for these parts. you could have a big brake kit for under $1000 if you find the calipers on ebay too.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/stoptech203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/stoptech%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/stoptech201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/stoptech%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/stoptech202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/stoptech%202.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

YAY! today the last parts for my StopTech big brakes are here. I test fitted everything and they work perfectly. now I will break everything down for powder coat and think about what I want my calipers to say. I was thinking about retaining the SMS or putting "BIG A$$ BRAKES" or maybe even ford racing, but i'm not sure yet.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/IMG_20160415_124918-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160415_124918.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/IMG_20160415_124858-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160415_124858.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/04/IMG_20160415_125445-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/IMG_20160415_125445.jpg.html)

[I_make_oil]

Look great. Your attention to details is inspiring.

[PANTYEATR]

Look great. Your attention to details is inspiring.

Semper fi, thanks so much hard charger...

[andrewb70]

Semper fi, thanks so much hard charger...

Dude...your username and location are killing me...LOL

Andrew

[PANTYEATR]

Dude...your username and location are killing me...LOL

Andrew

Thanks Andrew, I'm glad you like it lol. It's also my name on eBay, i get props there sometimes too.

[PANTYEATR]

well Ladies (if you're out there) and Gents, my brakes are back from the powder coaters. everything looks good.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%204.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%205.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%202.jpg.html)

as you can see, I settled for "Ford Racing" on my calipers. I didn't mount them cause the clear over the decal wasn't fully dry. I'll do it Monday and get some pics of them behind the wheels. the rotors are on just to show how they fit in the wheel.

[PANTYEATR]

heres the pics as promised. they look great, even my Chevy friends had to admit they looked good...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes207-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%207.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/05/ford20racing20brakes206-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/ford%20racing%20brakes%206.jpg.html)

[Gil]

Badass ! It looks awesome !
Gil

[PANTYEATR]

Badass ! It looks awesome !
Gil

thank you very much Gil

[I_make_oil]

Badass ! It looks awesome !
Gil


Yes sir X2 ��������

[Big Dawg]

Nice SN95. ......nice job on powder coating the brakes blue, totally gonna POP!!!.


Btw....how many panties have you eaten?

[Josh@Ridetech]

Awesome job man! Good choice on the wheels too, the center caps came out great!!

[PANTYEATR]

Nice SN95. ......nice job on powder coating the brakes blue, totally gonna POP!!!.
Btw....how many panties have you eaten?

uhhh allot of panties! I acquired the taste for them at 13 yrs old and I'm 37 now so....


Awesome job man! Good choice on the wheels too, the center caps came out great!!

thanks so much everyone, I knew how I wanted those caps to come out, but I didn't know how to get them that way. I'm very proud of them.

[PANTYEATR]

just a small update guys. the shop where I do my work has moved to a bigger, better building in a better location, so I lost like 4-5 months of work time. the car has been ready for paint like 4 months ago. i'm now dismantling the daily driven mustang and keeping the parts that I plan on using. the goodies I don't plan on using that I have taken off so far have been posted to Craigslist Orlando. just search my name "Jefferson" if you want to check it out.

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/the20swap201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/the%20swap%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/07/the20swap202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/the%20swap%202.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

well guys, it's been a while, but I have a small update. I finally got the final paint sprayed on the body, deck lid, sail panels, door handles and gas door. in-seen in the pics, I have installed the modified MACH sub box, door handles, door seals, deck lid and all key cylinders. I just started installing the carpet today. more pics to come soon...

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint201_1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%201_1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint208-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%208.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint207-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%207.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint206-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%206.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%205.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint204_1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%204_1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint203_1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%203_1.jpg.html)

https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/final20paint202_1-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/final%20paint%202_1.jpg.html)

this paint is soooo bright, that you can't look at it while the sun is out!....unless you have shades.

[PANTYEATR]

small update part 2, just some of the details...

the gas cap area was kinda bland for liking, so I put a little contrast on it. I think it pulls it off, yet not too overbearing.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/gas20cap-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/gas%20cap.jpg.html)

next, I was working on the mid bass subs in the floor and it was a challenge. it's very hard to provide protection with a grill, line up mounting holes of 3 items through carpet while not being able to see your pre-drilled holes in the body. lining up any 2 of the 3 parts was easy to mount, once you try to add the 3rd part, it was fighting. i'm gonna try some screws that are like 1/2" longer to see if it's that simple of a fix.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/mid20bass202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/mid%20bass%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/mid20bass201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/mid%20bass%201.jpg.html)

my seating arrangements are handled by Corbeau in the closest I could get New Ford Blue. I also bought some extra material from Corbeau to color match my rear seats.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/seats201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seats%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/seats202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/seats%202.jpg.html)

and finally, another crown jewel IMO, is my re-wrapped factory steering wheel. I sent it to Craft Customs in Mesquite Texas, where they masterfully wrapped my wheel in Alcantara and Ford Blue baseball stitches. this thing is done so well, you would think it was OEM! i'm very happy with the quality of my wheel. also not pictured, I have an Alcantara head liner from TMI.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/steering20wheel201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/steering%20wheel%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2016/11/steering20wheel202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/steering%20wheel%202.jpg.html)

[PANTYEATR]

what's up G-machine'ers, just a small update.

Allot has happened, but most of it wasn't meaningful enough to catalog and post here. Stuff like laying the carpet down, installing the Alcantara headliner and installing interior panels, but here are the milestones.

first I installed all the rear panels, seats, rear deck cover and rear head rest. then I installed the dash which fought me a little since I have double firewall jute installed.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/interior20and20tint201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/interior20and20tint202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%202.jpg.html)

after that I had a new windshield and heated back glass which I then had tinted like 15% hey the summers in Florida are very bright as you can imagine.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/interior20and20tint208-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%208.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/interior20and20tint203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%203.jpg.html)

this pic sucks, but I installed my amps on the rear seat backs. originally I was gonna recess the amps in the seat backs, but there wasn't enough room to make that practical, so I did it the old way.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/interior20and20tint204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%204.jpg.html)

that's when disaster struck... while I had the all of the harnesses out of the car I re-wrapped them with fresh electric tape. before putting the dash and body harness in I thought it would be a good idea to wire in a aftermarket car alarm with proximity sensors. good initiative, bad judgement! I should have at least laid the harnesses in the car and powered them BEFORE trying to wire in a car alarm. doing it on a bench cause me to fry both door harnesses, the dome light circuit, the trunk light circuit, the keyless entry module, the warning chime. i'm lucky it didn't burn the car down. after about a week of repairing burnt wires and diagnosing the faults in the harness, I still couldn't find all of the issues, so I ripped everything out and got another 95GT harness. that was a $500 mistake...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%206.jpg.html)

after putting the new harness in and all the interior in again, I powered the car and properly wired in the car alarm. everything works and all alarm functions except remote start. I wanted to have remote start, but i can live without it...
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/01/interior20and20tint205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%205.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/noimg.gif (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/interior%20and%20tint%207.jpg.html)

and that's where i'm at now. the next update should be a sweet one. in about a week i should have my Ford Racing all aluminum 427 bottom-end, my hydro-dipped interior pieces and double DIN radio. i hope you enjoy...

[PANTYEATR]

So here it is!!! the mighty all aluminum Ford Racing 427 bottom-end. machined and assembled by Ford and shipped to me. I've been doing allot of research on the top-end and calling the best to answer my questions. from Nelson racing engines to trickflow to TEA, I've picked their brains for the route to go for the WHP goals I have.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%205.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%202.jpg.html)

[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%204.jpg.html]https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%202.jpg.html)

then a few of my body kit parts were painted to get the rear of the car to look finished. the front clip will be done once I get closer to needing it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/Saleen20rear201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/Saleen20rear202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%202.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/Saleen20rear203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/Saleen20rear204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%204.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/Saleen20rear205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/Saleen%20rear%205.jpg.html)

I don't have my parts from the hydro-dippers yet. they promised me I would have them today. that and the top end will be next to post. I'm also looking to buy a house within the next 30 days, so I don't know how much that will slow me down with my car, but I'll keep you guys posted.

[2ndroundko]

WOW..... Im not personally crazy about all the ford blue but the execution of it all is amazing looking forward to seeing the finished project.

[PANTYEATR]

WOW..... Im not personally crazy about all the ford blue but the execution of it all is amazing looking forward to seeing the finished project.

thank you. yes the blue isn't everybody's taste, but that's the spice of life us all being different in taste. besides some engine components, there won't be much more blue used. I really don't want to over-do it.

[Z06killinSBF]

I like the blue, reminds me of the red interiors these came with. I imagine the blue will flow into the door panels and console?

[67cougnut]

So here it is!!! the mighty all aluminum Ford Racing 427 bottom-end. machined and assembled by Ford and shipped to me. I've been doing allot of research on the top-end and calling the best to answer my questions. from Nelson racing engines to trickflow to TEA, I've picked their brains for the route to go for the WHP goals I have.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%201.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427205-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%205.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427203-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%203.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%202.jpg.html)

[URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%204.jpg.html]https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/02/aluminum20427204-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/aluminum%20427%202.jpg.html)

then a few of my body kit parts were painted to get the rear of the car to look finished. the front clip will be done once I get closer to needing it.


I don't have my parts from the hydro-dippers yet. they promised me I would have them today. that and the top end will be next to post. I'm also looking to buy a house within the next 30 days, so I don't know how much that will slow me down with my car, but I'll keep you guys posted.

GREAT BUILD!

Have you tried Ron over at Fox lake Or Ed Curtis at FTI for your top end needs? the two of them have always been my first call on SBF builds.

[dashjackson]

Mr. Pantyeatr, I have to tell you that except for a few aesthetic differences, you are building my dream car.
I am currently building the version of that car that I can afford (no all aluminum 408 for me) and you are an inspiration. Well done and keep up the good work.

[PANTYEATR]

I like the blue, reminds me of the red interiors these came with. I imagine the blue will flow into the door panels and console?

thank you Z06 Killer, yes a small portion of the center console will be blue and it will flow onto the door panels.

[PANTYEATR]

thank you 67Cougnut.

I'm not familiar with Fox Lake or FTI. I did speak to Mark at Bullet cams and Nelson racing engines lead engine builder, Greg at Total Engine Airflow and a few others, just to see if the info was remotely the same. I have a cam and head combo I'm going with now, I hope it does what I want it to do...

[PANTYEATR]

thanks you Dash Jackson,

I'm very happy I have a chance to build the car of both of our dreams. that's an aluminum 427. my badges that say 6.7 HO were made before I was convinced to go bigger since it wouldn't cost any more than the 408 I was originally gonna go with. I'll get some new billet badges made later with the correct displacement.

I'm honored to have inspired you with your build. 95RioSnake inspired my build, even tho I started my build before I seen his. because of his build, I wanted to take some things a step further.

thanks again

[PANTYEATR]

I have a very small update guys...

so, I installed a high volume Precision oil pump from Precision oil pumps. com. they get the pumps in lots of 10, take them all apart, match the best fitting parts together and assemble the best possible pump. before building the pump, they measure all of the clearances, de-burr and coat the rotor in a Moly coating like on piston skirts. then they torque and safety wire it closed. very good pumps. I bolted the pump down with ARP pump bolts.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/oil20pump20and20studs202-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/oil%20pump%20and%20studs%202.jpg.html)

then I installed some ARP oil pan studs.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/04/oil20pump20and20studs201-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/oil%20pump%20and%20studs%201.jpg.html)

I have the timing cover and water pump from Ford racing along with the recommended oil pan from them. I can't install them until my cam comes in from Bullet Racing Cams which will come in about 3 weeks. I de-burred the water pump and timing cover and set it aside. I have a billet timing set that's 9 way adjustable. I have a bronze cam retainer with Torrington bearing and a Rockwell hardened oil pump drive also from Precision Oil Pumps.

I finally got my interior parts from the hydro-dippers and that real carbon look is amazing! you can actually see the texture of the treads in it! i'll get pics of everything once my cam comes in...

[Bossed]

Great execution and results. Coming together nicely, the engine block looks like aluminum art !! Best of luck going forward.

[PANTYEATR]

Great execution and results. Coming together nicely, the engine block looks like aluminum art !! Best of luck going forward.

thank you so much Bossed. I have more pics and updates, but I want to wait until I get my heads. then it will be more of a complete update.

[PANTYEATR]

it's been a little while since my last post which is unfortunate, but I was waiting on parts to get painted and they still aren't painted. when they are painted the interior will be finished minus a radio and a rear defroster button which turned up missing somehow. so I directed my attention back to the engine...

I called Mark at Bullet cams, got a cam recommendation and had them custom build it for what I wanted the engine to do.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170425_125357-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170425_125357.jpg.html)
I carefully lubed the cam and installed it.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170425_125341_Burst01-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170425_125341_Burst01.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170425_125317_Burst01-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170425_125317_Burst01.jpg.html)
once I got the cam in and the bronze Torrington bearing retainer on (which can be seen in earlier pics) I installed this adjustable billet steel timing set that's 9 way adjustable. torqued on by a ARP cam bolt
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170425_154558-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170425_154558.jpg.html)
then I started to degree the cam according to Mark's instructions and it's dead on.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170427_163534-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170427_163534.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170427_163510-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170427_163510.jpg.html)
some of you may know how crazy the bolt sizes are for the water pump/timing cover on the 95 mustang, so I ordered these polished stainless ARP bolts in the correct sizes needed. in a stock block 302 where the bolts go into the water jacket, you don't have to worry about these rusting or breaking in the block when trying to remove them.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170428_122055-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170428_122055.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170428_174813-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170428_174813.jpg.html)
then I installed a Ford racing 7 quart oil pan. the rumor is this pan is made by Champs pans, but iwasn't sure, so I got it from Ford directly.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170428_174555-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170428_174555.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170428_174625-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170428_174625.jpg.html)
and the last piece to go on is the ATI super dampener. this is my first one and it is a very nice piece. I also installed a billet aluminum ATI adjustable timing pointer, but I don't know if I have any pics of it, if not i'll get some for you.
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170504_170042-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170504_170042.jpg.html)
https://static1.pt-content.com/images/pt/2017/06/20170504_170118-1.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pantyeatr/media/20170504_170118.jpg.html)

so that's it, these pics are a few months old since I was also busy buying my first home. I should be getting some heads soon and keep pushing ahead on this project. until then guys...

[ryeguy2006a]

Just read through all the pages, great job on that car. I agree 100% the Saleen SN95's are beautiful, well done. Can't wait to see the finished product!

[PANTYEATR]

Just read through all the pages, great job on that car. I agree 100% the Saleen SN95's are beautiful, well done. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Ryeguy2006a thank you so much. I hope you enjoyed the read. stick around and i'll get it done as fast as I can.

[Curt C]

What camshaft specs did you end up with? What kind of power are you looking to make? Very nice build.

[PANTYEATR]

What camshaft specs did you end up with? What kind of power are you looking to make? Very nice build.

thanks allot, I don't have the Cam specs in front of me, but it's a little above .600 lift with I think a 114 lobe separation. I have to use a 1.6 rocker with this cam and I want to get as close to 600WHP as I can N/A.

[PANTYEATR]

well guys, looks like photobucket is charging for 3rd party picture hosting. that's where all of my project log pictures are. now you can't see them unless I pay for some expensive annual fee. any solutions? this project log was allot of work to put together with pics to just start all over again...

[Kcrain]

Any updates on this really liked what your doing?

[castine917]

well guys, looks like photobucket is charging for 3rd party picture hosting. that's where all of my project log pictures are. now you can't see them unless I pay for some expensive annual fee. any solutions? this project log was allot of work to put together with pics to just start all over again...
I'm nearly two years late. Pictures appeared fine for me.

Nice build.