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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Posts
      212

      Looking for a good flaring tool

      I'm looking for a good flaring tool that will do 45 deg. double flares on stainless and 37 deg. single flares on stainless. Does anyone know of one that will do both 45 deg and 37 deg.? I was looking at a MasterCool flaring tool but I don't see one that does both 45 deg and 37 deg.

      Thanks,
      Tony



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Texarkana, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      The one that Eastwood sells will do both but, you have to buy extra dies for the 37 degree flares. I just have the double flare set up and it works great.
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      now In Dandridge, Tn.
      Posts
      1,301
      Country Flag: United States
      I have MAC tools hand/hydrolic for 458 DF, also does metric bubble and GM fuel. I use a Ridged 37.5* tool - the good one with the rotating flare head. The new Eastwood tool looks pretty good too.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      738
      Got the Eastwood tool and it does work great. I think there is a an add in Car Craft or Hot Rod that knocks off $50.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Posts
      212
      Thanks Jim, have you tried to do 45 deg. double flares on stainless?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      El Paso, Texas
      Posts
      411
      I have a Mastercool tool and I bought the big kit that does pretty much everything except 37's. It seems they sell the dies separately. That being said I could not flare stainless with it. It was really hard and the pipe wound up getting stuck in my 45 degree die. Maybe I did something wrong, I dunno. But it was a pain trying it. Perhaps there's a trick to flaring stainless I didn't know about. I wound up using regular line for what I needed. HTH.

      Alex

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Using a ream available from SUR&R too bevel the inside of the tubing ,then a fine flat file and put a small bevel on the outside as well.
      I used to break pins off and have too get replacements. After learning to clean up the ends after cutting I had great flares every time.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      434
      Country Flag: United States
      I was under the impression that stainless didn't require a double flair because of it's strength. Single flares still allow it to deform slightly to seal well.

      Anyone ever do double flairs on stainless?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      The choice of double or single flare is dependent upon whether the tubing has a seam. A seam is created when tubing is formed around a mandrel then welded. The seam is easily seen by looking at the inside of the tubing (the outside of the weld has been rolled flat).

      The auto store regular steel brake and fuel line has a seam, and must be double flared. The double flare prevents the seam from cracking, which will occur with a single flare on seamed tubing.

      Note that seamless tubing can be double flared, but it isn't required.

      Bob.




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