Bought baer brakes, need help with the rest of the system.

[Fjolsen]

Hello, my name is Fredrik (From Norway). I'm currently building a 1968 mustang coupe into a pro-touring/restomod kinda mix with a full package from StreetOrTrack.com bumped up with a set of 14" 6P baer brakes front and rear.

The car was a original 289 C4 with power brakes and power steering.

And beeing new to the brake "game" I have a lot of questions regarding the rest of the parts that I will need to make it a complete brake system. So "baer" with me ;)

Whats on the way to Norway right now is as follows:
http://baer.com/14-Rear-Pro-Plus-Brake-System-with-Park-Brake-4262197.html (http://baer.com/14-Rear-Pro-Plus-Brake-System-with-Park-Brake-4262197.html) + parking brake cable.
And
http://baer.com/14-Front-Pro-Plus-Brake-System-4261258.html

I have all the original brakelines for my car. will those be big enough for the 6p calipers?

I have a stock 4 corner drum brake mastercylinder. Do I need to buy a new one, and if so what do you guys recommend?
Do I need any reduction valve for the back brakes? and if so is there any you would recommend?
Is hydraboost any good and is that something you can recommend using together with this setup?

Let me know if there is stuff I havent thought of that Im missing?

Best regards
-Fredrik

[Apogee]

...I have all the original brakelines for my car. will those be big enough for the 6p calipers?

I have a stock 4 corner drum brake mastercylinder. Do I need to buy a new one, and if so what do you guys recommend?
Do I need any reduction valve for the back brakes? and if so is there any you would recommend?
Is hydraboost any good and is that something you can recommend using together with this setup?

Let me know if there is stuff I havent thought of that Im missing?

Best regards
-Fredrik

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to P-T.com. As for your questions, brake line size has no impact on the volume requirements of the system, however larger tubing does add compliance to the system (expansion under pressure), so smaller is generally better up to a point. I would use 3/16 hard lines everywhere if I were plumbing it from scratch, or the mix of 3/16 and 1/4 OE lines if they're in good condition.

As for the master cylinder, the bore size needs to be matched to the calipers given your firewall configuration (manual versus power), booster (if you're running one), pedal ratio, pad compound, and personal preferences. I would suggest you contact Baer for their official recommendation based on your application, however in general we would be looking at a 7/8 to 15/16 inch bore unit for manual brakes assuming a 6:1 pedal ratio and "FF" or "GG" CoF pad compound. For vacuum assisted applications, we'd run a 15/16 to 1 inch bore unit paired with a single-10.75, dual-8 or dual-9 inch booster assuming you have at least 14 inches Hg vacuum at idle. We start at 1-1/8 inch MC's with hydroboost assuming a GM/Bosch booster.

We at KORE3 typically run an 11-turn infinitely adjustable proportioning valve (APV's) since it should allow you to optimize your rear brake utilization. Most aftermarket APV's function the same, so no real preference there.

Like anything, hydroboost has its pros and cons, many of which are subjective. They typically provide the most gain/boost of any power brake option, and therefore can provide the lowest pedal efforts. Additionally, they function independently from engine vacuum, so you can go as crazy as you like with your engine and not negatively impact your brake performance, unlike with vacuum assisted applications. Down sides include increased cost, weight and potentially reduced modulation/feedback.

Tobin
KORE3