Battery charger,crimping battery cables question, trunk grounding.

[Rileys68Camaro]

I'm looking for a decent, somewhat inexpensive charger for an Optima red top battery that I have.

My battery is down to 5.6v, not sure it can be saved.



But, even if it can't be saved, I would like a charger that I can use to power up the wiring on my car and test circuits/lights without draining the battery.

If my battery is dead, then it'll suck, but I can get one that's easier to get a custom trunk mount for.


Also, I have the Quick Car Cable kit, and I'm wondering what tool would be best to crimp the ends and also strip the insulation from it without clipping the strands.

I used a razor knife for the insulation and my Klien crimpers, and it looks okay, but I might redo it as I have extra ends.

One last thing, where should I attach my ground wire in the trunk? Do I want to drill into the frame??? The trunk floor pan doesn't seem like it'll work that well.



Thanks!

[paul67]

Have you got desent earths from subframe to engine?
paul67

[Sparky]

You can purchase a Sears, Mac Tools or Snap On battery charger. I would look for something that has a Start, High, Med and Low settings, that way you can set it to a low setting, while testing circuits on the car and not worry about hurting other circuits.

You may want to check Sam’s Club or Costco too, sometimes they have some decent deals.



Has your optima battery seen extreme cold (left in the car during the winter)?

Gel cell batteries have a hard time with extreme cold and usually don’t last to long after sitting all winter long. That at least has been my experience in the past.



Terminal Supply (800) 989-9632, carries a couple of different hand tools to help support your Cable Connectors, along with a couple different kinds of cable cutters.

They carry a Large Lug Crimper, Part # SKT-840 (PG-244) which should support crimping the battery terminals. There are 2 different Copper Cable Cutters, Part # UPB-41 and KL-63050. (PG-245)

Terminal has a real helpful staff, if you’re unsure what would work best, ask them, they will be able to help you out.



The ground for your car should go to the frame. You should also run a ground from the engine to the frame, along with one from the body (Cowl Area) to either the frame and/or engine. This often overlooked and thrown out item is referred to as a ground strap. It is still used today on new vehicles, very important.



I hope this helps

Sparky

[Rileys68Camaro]

Well, I left my optima out in the garage on the cement floor for a couple years...didn't know that the concrete was a bad idea...

I don't have subframe connectors, but I will have good clean contacts at the cowl to engine, and one from the engine to the subframe.

[yody]

I believe that leaving a battery on a concrete floor and having it drain because of that is a complete myth. I forget where it was busted out though. I think leaving the battery on a floor for a couple of years will make it drain though

[Sparky]

Leaving a Wet Cell (Liquid Acid battery) on a concrete floor will in fact drain the Battery. No myth there. I don't think the same applies to a Gel Cell Battery. The only experience I have had with Gel Cell's, is leaving them out in the cold all winter without running the vehicle. This does not mean if you have a Gel Cell in your daily driver, that it will ruin the battery.
I hope I didn't confuse anyone with this, if I did please post, so that I can clear up any confusion.

Sparky

[Rileys68Camaro]

I just looked at it, and it's dated 2001 and it's sat either on the floor or in my car with zero run time since then.

Garage gets pretty cold, 30-40* in the winter. My dogs water dish will have an ice layer if left out overnight....

So, I think it's dead. But, it makes the mounting easier as I can buy the one that all the mounts fit.

[indyjps]

for battery cable ends and large stereo cable ends ive always clamped up the end in a vise, filled it with hot solder and stuck the cable in, can crimp or not

[Blown353]

For crimping compression lug terminals, there are two ways to do it right:

1. A large set of compression lug crimpers with the correct dies for the size of terminal you are using. Think of your standard terminal crimping pliers only much larger.
2. An impact crimper; you put the wire and terminal end in the impact crimper and you hammer on the top of it; it has a die on the bottom and a specially shaped impactor which forms the crimp in the terminal and holds the wire. These do a fine job and can be had for about $30. They're slower than using a plier-style crimper, but for low-volume home use they're the most cost effective way to do the job right.

You can solder only, but if things ever get hot the solder will melt and the wire will just fall out. The solder can also fatigue and crack over time and the wire can fall out. Crimping AND soldering is my preferred method, but you have to be careful not to get the wire too hot and wick the solder too far back past the crimp, otherwise the wire will become stiff and brittle and can eventually fatigue and break.

Troya

[GUS68]

Ofcourse any battery will drain if left on the floor, or shelf, or bench, or kitchen counter for a year or more with out charge. Now the trick is to make it float in mid air, that way it will stay charged forever!!!!