Need help with hydraulic clutch master cylinder

[Mr Nick]

Just went thru my 2nd Wilwood clutch master cylinder. Both have internal bore wear and severly worn pistons. First one started leaking after just a couple hundred miles. When I replaced it I noticed the internal wear was mostly on the 'left' side (closer to the fender) so I added another spacer on the bolt for the pushrod to clutch pedal arm bolt. My thinking was the pushrod wasn't pushing the piston in straight, and it caused the very quick wear.

Well the second one lasted about 500 miles or so (at least twice as long), then started leaking. This time the wear is about an hour or two counterclockwise, compared to the first one. My guess is I need another shim to get the pushrod centered inline with the piston, left to right. But it also looks like the pushrod is pushing downward on the piston too? Is that why the bracket from Hurst Driveline mounts the MC at a slight downward angle?

My bracket is welded to the booster mount, straight up and down.

I'm currently using the higher of the two holes in the clutch pedal, for better feel. I'd hate to have to use the lower hole to get the pushrod aligned, but then go back to a heavy feeling pedal. There is a bend in the pushrod to try and make up for using the higher hole, and keep proper alignment. Guess it didn't work. :(

Thoughts?

Attachment 81330

[Mr Nick]

Looks like this mount helps line up the master cylinder with the natural travel of the pedal and pushrod. Is there another way?

[wfo guy]

My exp. has been that unless the pushrod is in direct alignment, that you will never get satisfactory life either with the master or the slave cylinder. If you have plenty of travel in the other position, you might try a smaller bore for reduced pedal effort.

[Mr Nick]

I ended up purchasing the above bracket. While it made things better, they were by no means perfect. Maybe the full kit has instructions I didn't receive, because I ordered just the separate bracket... but I needed to weld an extension on the clutch pedal so I could drill a hole for the push-rod clevis in the right spot, for correct geometry.

[wayward]

Nick, where did you get the aluminum bracket?

I ended up purchasing the above bracket. While it made things better, they were by no means perfect. Maybe the full kit has instructions I didn't receive, because I ordered just the separate bracket... but I needed to weld an extension on the clutch pedal so I could drill a hole for the push-rod clevis in the right spot, for correct geometry.

[Mr Nick]

Hurst Driveline conversions. Its not a perfect fit or solution, but I made it work.

[andrewb70]

I have a bracket that came from your favorite vendor and it has been working well since day one. Everything bolted up as it was supposed to.





Andrew

[68lovebuzz]

No problems with my Keisler bracket. 1000 miles so far.

[Mr Nick]

I don't consider myself a stubborn person, but after the fiasco I went thru with Keisler, I wasn't willing to give them a dime. I will say for anybody else reading this, the Keisler bracket does look to be the best of them.
The Hurst Driveline bracket puts the clutch MC right in line with the contour on the firewall, right next to the fuse block. So you have to drill that area out! And the angle of the MC pushrod does not closely match the arc the clutch pedal travels. I had to weld an extension on the clutch pedal to "move back" the mounting point for the pushrod.

[gac7773]

Check AMERICAN POWERTRAIN!!!!

[MarkB]

I just wanted to let everyone know that we have a complete line of hydraulic components, Manual Transmissions, Crossmembers and more for all your needs. I have attached a couple of our most popular options for the '67 - '69 & '70 - '81 Camaro Hydraulics. We have different options to hit your budgets. Form billet to plastic reservoirs, OE master cylinders to aftermarket options, Tilton throwout bearings with our own design guide tube to our modified OE slave / throwout bearing with -4AN braided lines. Brackets for proper geometry and stroke to get the proper volume of fluid to ensure proper clutch release. Be sure to reach out to Jon for all your needs and ask him for your special Pro-Touring.com discount.

[wayward]

I have a 67 a body. I bought a Fbody bracket to see how it would line up and I'm not happy with that. With this being a spot that will not get much maintenance and penetrates to the inside. I want function(works correctly), water tight , and nice appearance in that order.

I'll check out your website, thanks... Eric

I just wanted to let everyone know that we have a complete line of hydraulic components, Manual Transmissions, Crossmembers and more for all your needs. I have attached a couple of our most popular options for the '67 - '69 & '70 - '81 Camaro Hydraulics. We have different options to hit your budgets. Form billet to plastic reservoirs, OE master cylinders to aftermarket options, Tilton throwout bearings with our own design guide tube to our modified OE slave / throwout bearing with -4AN braided lines. Brackets for proper geometry and stroke to get the proper volume of fluid to ensure proper clutch release. Be sure to reach out to Jon for all your needs and ask him for your special Pro-Touring.com discount.

[davidk68]

Mark,
Can you put a link to the page on your website - I just now looked for it and couldn't find it.

Thanks,
David

[eville]

Anyone running an external slave setup? Seems like a way better approach then hyd. T/O

[wayward]

Update: for the a body crowd needing a bracket for the master.

Regal454 sent me a link to a new source for master brackets, I spoke to the guy making these. Reported to work in the z-bar hole and he has various lengths rods if necessary (as none of our cars are typical). I ordered one and will let everyone know if it works on a 67 A body.

I was making one from aluminum tubing but this is less than $140 shipped. Does not come with m/c.

Nick, where did you get the aluminum bracket?

[Mr Nick]

Now THAT looks like the correct solution.

[wayward]

I hope it works.. the guy is very knowledgeable in pedal position ratios and all... mean street performance out of California. When I get mine I'll give more feedback...

[Mr Nick]

Please do. If my current (3rd one) master cylinder goes out, then I'll probably try the one you posted. But I think I was able to get a good position with the Hurst unit after some minor fab work.

[andrewb70]

That's a good looking bracket!

Andrew

[Mr Nick]

That's a good looking bracket!

Andrew

Is it weird that I get excited about a properly functioning bracket? Must be something about bringing two items together to work well together.