1967 Mustang Coupe, Project "Code Blue"

[67 Fastback]

Awesome build!!!!
Bill

[MSTSFabbed]

Alright Wes, youre an anal engineer as well, give me your two cents. Why does everyone talk about stiffening the front end with export braces, monte carlo bars etc etc, then use rod ends to fasten it all together, resulting in pinned-pinned conditions everywhere?
This is the weakest way to fasten a compression member (according to Eulers buckling eq.) and the whole set up still allows torsional twist from suspension forces.

I know this is wicked nit picky but I just dont get why you wouldn't weld or bolt the members in place to better resist all loads, aside from rod ends look awesome haha.

[MSTSFabbed]

I'm not criticizing at all btw, everthing looks amazing as usual!

[Wesley J]

Alright Wes, youre an anal engineer as well, give me your two cents. Why does everyone talk about stiffening the front end with export braces, monte carlo bars etc etc, then use rod ends to fasten it all together, resulting in pinned-pinned conditions everywhere?
This is the weakest way to fasten a compression member (according to Eulers buckling eq.) and the whole set up still allows torsional twist from suspension forces.

I know this is wicked nit picky but I just dont get why you wouldn't weld or bolt the members in place to better resist all loads, aside from rod ends look awesome haha.

LOL! Love the to the point post!

Long answer:

To be honest, a 1" diameter 0.125" aluminum tubing isnt much good as anything but a point to point tensional member. Having tortional ridgidity in the mount point doesnt really offer any advantage IMHO. Also, keep in mind that there are 2 sides to this car and I'm attempting to increase tortional stiffiness about the long axis of the car, therefor basic statics dictates that when one of these struts is in compression the other one is in tension. Its an awesome connection in that situation.

Short answer:

They look really cool. ;)

BTW, you are criticizing, and I appreciate it.

[MSTSFabbed]

Hahaha Ok, I see where youre coming from. I forgot what material you were using. If I think of something else to critize I'll be sure to let you know!

Slick work with the cowl sheet bracing, I really like that!

[Wesley J]

LOL, I was hoping you'd take it that way.

I plan to have a significant update this weekend. As usual I'm fabbing everything, even some of the tools...

[BulldawgMusclecars]

I love what you've done with this project, Wes! BTW what kind of bead roller are you using? I'm in the market for one, and yours is more like what I am looking for.

[Wesley J]

Somewhat timely question. I bought it from Toolsplus1.com but they dont seem to list it anymore. Because of that fact, I just spun out some new flanging dies so I could build the following:



Just sitting in place, I'm not going to make it perminant until I get the header on that side done.










Some of you may question my wisdom in having the speed holes in my fender wells but I thought the coolness outweighed the negatives of underhood cleanliness. More speed holes to come!

Wesley J

[stillridin]

WOW! I love these picture books. A few hours later and the story still going. Awesome thread. Wes you are the man. Can't wait to see it done again.

[racedaddy]

Sweet!

[my68vert]

Love the speed holes Wes :D This project just get's cooler and cooler man!

[GrabberGT]

are you using a Pin-on hood? I dont see hood hinge mounting being that easy with those speed holes there.

[Wesley J]

Thanks Guys!

I have almost 3 weeks off over Christmas and hope to get a lot done. Once I get this sheetmetal done, the main crossmember and swaybar are next. I hope to have them done by the xmas break. Then I can spend that time with that car up on the rotisserie finish welding everything and running fuel/brake lines. Then exhaust, wiring and firing!

Wes

[Wesley J]

are you using a Pin-on hood? I dont see hood hinge mounting being that easy with those speed holes there.

I have some hood hinges that I pilfered from another vehicle that I'm planning to make work. They arent anything like the stock ones and I'll need a hood support rod. I like Mary's solution of a CF golf club shaft...

[andrewb70]

Wes,

I'd love to see more detailed pictures of how you make the panels with the "speed holes."

Andrew

[Wesley J]

I'll take some pics as I do the other side. I'll start on it tonight.

Wes

[JBCO]

I'll take some pics as I do the other side. I'll start on it tonight.

Wes

Win!

[MSTSFabbed]

Hey! I almost asked what extra bracing you were planning for that shock hoop haha, but there it is. Lookin super shnazzy! You get a better idea on what style monte carlo bar youre gonna run?

[56pickup]

Thanks Guys!

I have almost 3 weeks off over Christmas and hope to get a lot done. Once I get this sheetmetal done, the main crossmember and swaybar are next. I hope to have them done by the xmas break. Then I can spend that time with that car up on the rotisserie finish welding everything and running fuel/brake lines. Then exhaust, wiring and firing!

Wes

Wes! I absolutly love where this is going! Can't wait till you get her running! What are your plans for the exhaust?

[Wesley J]

Hey! I almost asked what extra bracing you were planning for that shock hoop haha, but there it is. Lookin super shnazzy! You get a better idea on what style monte carlo bar youre gonna run?

Still on the fence. I'm pretty comfortable that it'll be absurdly stiff compared to stock even without the monte carlo bar. Because of this, I think I'm going to build it from aluminum as well. 2 parallell 1" tubes with some sheet aluminum between, with speed holes of course...

Wes! I absolutly love where this is going! Can't wait till you get her running! What are your plans for the exhaust?

Another point that I havent completely come to terms with. At 510 HP, I'm kindof right at that 2 1/2 to 3" transition. Because of the fact that I need to completely rebuild my exhaust and there is potential of a power adder in the future, which would likely push me into the 600-700 hp range, it just makes sense to go with the 3". I am looking at running the exhaust out the back as well. This will result in some significant challenges and fabrication work to the trunk floor...

I'm planning to run those Dynomax VT mufflers that have the valve that makes them a straight through at full throttle. I dont have any noise issues running dumps currently so this should make it even less of a problem.

So, to answer your question, 3" full stainless (likely coated) all v-clamped together, stock (modified) headers and Dynomax VT with dumps.

Wes