Baileigh TN-250 Tubing Notcher

[53Vipette]

I ordered the TN-250 a few weeks ago and couldn't wait for it to arrive in the mail! I just received it after waiting a few weeks and spent maybe 30 min assembling it. I clamped it in my vise and made two sample notches. The TN-250 features a radial clamp opposed to a V-block clamp on other model notchers. This allows for notching on a bend (not shown yet) and will take over a 2" piece of tube. Also, it has a full 1" off set ability. I would consider this a big set up from a standard cheaper notcher in terms of features vs. cost. I plan on looking into a better option than a hole saw, I was pondering the idea of using a drill bit that used with a magnetic drill. Those bits have cutting flutes on the bottom and sides and have really thick construction.

The notches shown are 1" DOM on 1.75" DOM cut with a 1.75" hole saw. This thing cuts so sweet! I made the cuts in about 45 seconds.

Stay tuned for more,
Matt

[SShep71]

Matt,
That is a serious piece, it looks rigid as hell. How is it cutting with the hole saw? If you are thinking about switching to s different cutting system I would sonsider a high helix end mill, or the rougher end mill. The bits you are referring to are annular cutters, they are not designed for side loads that may be experienced in cutting/and offset cutting tubes. They are designed for plunge cutting. Plus they are EPIC expensive for good ones. Espically when you start to get into the 1.5 - 2" dia range. I have broken lots of them in the past, its not a cheap day when it happens. Also the RPM's required for a good cut wont be achievable with a standard drill.

[SShep71]

Matt,
That is a serious piece, it looks rigid as hell. How is it cutting with the hole saw? If you are thinking about switching to s different cutting system I would sonsider a high helix end mill, or the rougher end mill. The bits you are referring to are annular cutters, they are not designed for side loads that may be experienced in cutting/and offset cutting tubes. They are designed for plunge cutting. Plus they are EPIC expensive for good ones. Espically when you start to get into the 1.5 - 2" dia range. I have broken lots of them in the past, its not a cheap day when it happens. Also the RPM's required for a good cut wont be achievable with a standard drill.

[exwestracer]

Years ago, I made an arbor to fit the Milwaukee "Hole Hawg" carbide slug bits you mentioned above; and used them to notch tubing in a milling machine. They work awesome, MUCH better than hole saws, and at the time were very reasonable on eBay. The older key drive type were the ones I adapted. These have a round outer shank and can also be chucked in a lathe and used for notching with a tool post vise.

Keep in mind there are 3 or 4 different drive styles for Milwaukee alone, so make sure you are getting bits with the drive end you want. Don't trust an online photo! The Hagen company makes a similar cutter called a "Rota Broach" that uses a standard mill arbor. They were way out of my price range.

Keep us informed. This is the first real testimonial I've seen on the Baileigh notcher...

[SShep71]

Ray, did you ever have problems with the bit failing from doing offset cuts or angular cuts? I used to see the bits fail from side loads, diaganol cuts, and irregular surface cuts. We always used Jancy sluggers at the iron works, but I can imagine a whole lot of difference between them and the Milwaukee hole hawg.

Matt, One thing I was thinking about after I posted earlier. What is the ID of the shaft the hole saw mounts in? You may have trouble finding a mill or annular cutter with a shank small enough. As in most machining applications the larger the cutting surface the larger the shank. One thing to remember if you decide to go this route is the depth of cut must be greater than the OD of the tube. Here is an example of what you may be looking at.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CN6GXW/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
I dont want to shy you away from trying, just giving my .02

[53Vipette]

Years ago, I made an arbor to fit the Milwaukee "Hole Hawg" carbide slug bits you mentioned above; and used them to notch tubing in a milling machine. They work awesome, MUCH better than hole saws, and at the time were very reasonable on eBay. The older key drive type were the ones I adapted. These have a round outer shank and can also be chucked in a lathe and used for notching with a tool post vise.

Keep in mind there are 3 or 4 different drive styles for Milwaukee alone, so make sure you are getting bits with the drive end you want. Don't trust an online photo! The Hagen company makes a similar cutter called a "Rota Broach" that uses a standard mill arbor. They were way out of my price range.

Keep us informed. This is the first real testimonial I've seen on the Baileigh notcher...

I plan on making a video once my go pro is up and running, it might be a while before I start to do any real work with it. But there is always time to cut tests to see how it does. The notcher comes with two types of adapters one for large hole saws and one for smaller threaded styles. I was going to get one or two of the annular cutters off of ebay or amazon to see if I can make it work. Maybe it'll fit one of the styles available. I always see those style cutters in magazines as a replacement for hole saws and they claim cleaner, faster cuts. I need something that allows me to plunge cut and not worry about bottoming out on a shallow bit which I've seen to be a problem already.

The reviews I've always seen are, it's expensive and works awesome. Not very helpful when you are trying to get the most bang for your buck.

Ill let you know as my quest to retrofit that continues.

[BAILEIGH INC]

Nice testimonial, thanks Matt!

Just so all of you guys know, anyone from Pro Touring gets the hook up from me, so if you are interested in one for yourself 920-482-3220

[SShep71]

1:35 look at the notching setup!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT108iL-vMw

[53Vipette]

Still don't see a way notch on a bend lol!

1:35 look at the notching setup!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT108iL-vMw

[SShep71]

haha true, but that is Legit!

[exwestracer]

Ray, did you ever have problems with the bit failing from doing offset cuts or angular cuts? I used to see the bits fail from side loads, diaganol cuts, and irregular surface cuts. We always used Jancy sluggers at the iron works, but I can imagine a whole lot of difference between them and the Milwaukee hole hawg.

Shep, I've never broken one, but I don't "lean" on them either. I have had one grab and bend the arbor! That's NOT funny right there, I don't care who you are...

Regarding the depth of available cut on angled notches; the slug bit has another advantage over the hole saw. The thickness of the cutter teeth exceeds the thickness of the material on many jobs; so when it "bottoms out", just back off and the top scrap will fall right out of the cutter. With a hole saw you will likely have to go in and finish cutting through the wall with a cutoff tool to get the top scrap out.

[exwestracer]

We are currently working on a tool post tube vise for our lathe. It will have a 3" long "V" rest and 2" strap clamp to hold the tube. I'm hoping this will let us get right up on a bend, although the compound angle will not be correct for the notch.

Notching tubes in a lathe is a beautiful thing when set up correctly!

[coolwelder62]

I love my TH-250 notcher.Best notcher under $600.00 money can buy.

[BAILEIGH INC]

right on