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04-22-2021 #1
Registered User
- Join Date
- Oct 2016
- Posts
- 10
Yes all we do is prime holes most of the time. Also Aviation here. Fiberglass layers also works wonders at stopping it.
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05-05-2021 #2
Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2021
- Location
- Tennessee
- Posts
- 49
Just some updated items and nothing major but some effective stuff and lessons learned. The older version of ridetech's 4-Link did start making noise especially after they warm up. Replaced them with the "R-Joints" and so far so go. Used the install jig to keep the lengths identical for my pinon angle during the swap.
Saw a nicer looking front spoiler and gave it a try. I like the change and styling and the price was right at just a hundred bones.
Needed some major changes with the exhaust. Was not able to run it over the rear-end but going under isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Even jacked with it hanging it does not touch the tubing due to the coil overs.
Now for some fun tuning stuff for you carb guys. After some changes I could tell she was pig rich so on goes the AFR gauge to get her back.
Tried as I may just could not get the stock metering block to play nice. Got an aftermarket block with adjustable restrictors for more fine tuning. Its said that with a bunch of patience you can get a carb close to EFI. Well, at least for the conditions on that day. LOL!
For you EFI guys, this is what the software looks like for us old school carb guys.
After two days of swapping jets, power valves, and restrictors, got the idle and WOT where it needs to be for my setup. Transitions to cruise (about 15:1) are butter smooth. Phew!!!
As a reminder (and obviously I was a victim) if you see this nice thick carb gasket and think it'll seal well....RUN Away! Ended up over torqueing the carb hardware to get it to seal which results in this. I should know better. The result is an aftermarket billet carb base (that would be the purple barney one in the pic above):
Lesson learned!
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