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    Results 1 to 4 of 4
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Posts
      88

      Question about residual pressure valve

      The car I'm working on currently has drum rear brakes. It's getting upgraded with wilwood front brakes and a wilwood master cylinder and adjustable proportioning valve. Wilwood told me to install the red residual pressure valve in the rear line and then remove it when I swap to rear discs. My question is it possible to "empty" the residual pressure valve when I don't need it? When I remove the valve it will be such a short area it will be impossible to make a line to fit in the short space. I figure if there was a way I could keep the valve in place but empty or hollow it out so it takes up the same amount of space but is rendered useless? I hope this makes sense. Thank you in advance.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      239
      Yup, just remove it, take the guts out and reinstall.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2003
      Location
      Central Valley, CA
      Posts
      900
      Country Flag: United States
      What kind of rear end? C-clip 10/12 bolt, floater, 9" with pressed on bearings?

      For cars with c-clip axles and fixed rear calipers leaving a 2# residual valve in is a good idea, otherwise you'll likely have a low pedal from axle movement and pad knockback. If using fixed rear calipers on c-clip axles it's also a good idea to buy an oversize c-clip kit and put in the thickest c-clips in that you can for the least amount of axle endplay possible, again, for pad knockback reasons.

      This is a lot more critical on cars with manual brakes and small diameter master cylinders, as a little pad knockback on a manual system can result in a very low pedal on the first application. For a car with power brakes and a large 1 1/8" diameter master, the master moves a lot more fluid volume and the pedal drop won't be nearly as bad.

      If you're running manual brakes with fixed calipers I would probably replace your 10# red residual valve with a 2# blue residual pressure valve regardless of what kind of rear axles are in the rear end, same goes for a 2# residual valve for the front brakes. The 2# residual valve doesn't cause any excessive pad drag and helps keep the pedal higher with manual brakes.
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Posts
      88
      Thank you for the very detailed response. The car currently has a 10 bolt with stock drum brakes. I do have a q.p. 9" with Torino "big bearing " ends that will go in the car someday. When it does it will be getting disc brakes, probably explorer disc brake setup





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