Project Scope Creep - '74 Nova Spirit of America

[cornfedbill]

I mocked up the Pozzi cheap big brakes tonight. It’s going to work well. The calipers are from a 1974 C10 pickup and have 2-15/16” pistons.

[cornfedbill]

What a difference a little bottle of gas can make. No more flux core wire! No more ugly spatter.

Now I need to adjust my welding technique. But the welds are so much cleaner.

[cornfedbill]

I finished up my Pozzi Cheap Big Brake brackets and have the C10 calipers and Hawk HPS pads ready to assemble with new braided steel lines.

Now I am working on the suspension geometry. The factory caster angle is essentially zero. By lowering the car and moving up the lower control arms, the upper control arms have an upward angle. This gives a bit more caster. However, because the kingpin inclination is 8.75 degrees, I want to have more caster than 8.75 degrees (See Ron Sutton's sticky post on suspension alignment). I am shooting for 10 degrees with neutral spacers, giving me a range of about 8 to 12 degrees static caster.

This means I need to move the upper control arm rearward. I will cut the bracket off and move it down and back along the centerline of the upper control arm shaft. This will give me the same axis of rotation and the same roll center movement.

I removed the shock mount last night to assess the situation. I need to measure the static caster at ride height and then calculate the amount to move the mount. From the factory setting of zero degrees, I would have to move the arm back about 1-3/4" (10" between ball joints times the sine of 10 degrees). Since there is some initial caster due to the new angle of the upper control arms, I need to do some measuring and more calculations.

The red lines are roughly 1-3/4" back from the existing position. I was just trying to get an idea of the magnitude of the project.

Since I moved the body mounts on the frame rearward 2 inches, and the spindle is close to the lower ball joint, I will not have clearance issues between the tire and firewall.

I am considering installing weight jacks in the front spring buckets and relocating the shocks. However, relocating the shocks is not a trivial task. I'm still pondering how to accomplish it. I may have to move the bump stop on the control arm and the mating pad on the frame to do so. Then I would have to move them both to the rear of the lower control arm. If I move the shocks to the rear, I worry that they will interfere with the steering.

Any ideas on where and how to relocate the shocks?

[cornfedbill]

I put the spindle back on and moved the lower control arm to its ride height position. Because of the increased angle of the upper control arm there is already 1.75 degrees of caster. I recalculated and need to move the upper control arm mount only 1-7/16” instead of 1-3/4. That means I won’t have a clearance issue with my steering box.

Now I need to build the fixture to move the mounts.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Brakes look great and glad you got the welder sorted out. Its amazing what the right set up can do for the quality of your welds. I like this thread because it makes me think that what you're doing is probably similar to many shop discussions back in the Trans Am series days when you had to use factory parts and modify them to work better. Good luck with the shocks and mounts!

[Z06killinSBF]

Can you do something like this for the shocks? It is what the truck guys use for air ride systems. Bracket welds to frame and the tab/spacer through the side of the control arm

https://www.ebay.com/i/131549322397?chn=ps

[cornfedbill]

Can you do something like this for the shocks? It is what the truck guys use for air ride systems. Bracket welds to frame and the tab/spacer through the side of the control arm

https://www.ebay.com/i/131549322397?chn=ps

Yes. That may work. I hadn't seen those before. Thanks.

I found this that I am investigating. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...Kit,60390.html

I am doing some measurements to see how they will fit. They will fit my springs. I checked that already.

[cornfedbill]

I made some progress making the fixture to relocate the upper control arm mounts 1-7/16” rearward to give me 10 degrees caster in the neutral position.

I picked up a set of upper control arms with caster slugs to give me a lot more adjustment. I will see how far I can go before it starts to push.

I also picked up some spring buckets and Mustang II adjustable spring/shock mounts to go inside the buckets so I can adjust height with the turn of a large nut, and keep the stock stock position inside the coil spring.

[cornfedbill]

I lost some time this weekend with a little distraction. My son (my navigator) and his wife had a little boy Friday. I took some time off to meet the little guy. He’s grandchild number 7. I’m kind of excited. 😎

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Congrats Bill!! He's a cutie!

[cornfedbill]

Congrats Bill!! He's a cutie!

He gets it from his grandpa - he took all the good looks and left none for me.

[cornfedbill]

Well, there’s no turning back now. I finished my fixture and then removed the upper control arm mounts.



I marked where I need to cut (roughly) to accommodate the 6” diameter Afco spring buckets from Speedway.



I laid the bucket in place to get an idea of how it will will sit.

I will need to recess it into the frame about 3 inches or so. I need to make sure the shock will not bottom out on itself. Because I raised the lower control arms, the upper shock mounts need to be raised quite a bit.



This is the adjuster that will sit in a 3-3/8” hole in the top of the spring buckets. This piece is very well made and has a good black oxide coating on it. It’s a Speedway Motors part designed for a Mustang II front end, but will work with my suspension with a bit of creativity.

I’m glad I’m an engineer. I’d starve if I were a professional photographer. 🙁

[68Formula]

Is it worth putting weight jackers in the front with a leaf spring car? Or are you converting to a four link?

[cornfedbill]

Yes, I believe so. The ride height of a leaf spring rear is easy to adjust with spacers and shackles.

My long term plans include a three link rest and a full floater.

[cornfedbill]

I’m still here.

I spent a couple of weeks in Germany and Switzerland and got in some Autobahn time. There was too much traffic to really open it up. But I was still able to cruise for some time between 100 and 130 mph and to get some practice in for this year’s Sandhills Open Road Challenge.

I’ve been working on moving the pedals, seat and steering 4 inches rearward. Modifying the pedal assembly and converting it to Afco individual master cylinders and adding a hydraulic clutch has been interesting to say the least.

I pulled the pedal assembly and the instrument cluster. Yes, it was a numbers matching 1974 Spirit of America Nova with 98527 original miles on the ticker.



I am moving the motor and driver rearward by 4 inches. So I tore into the pedal assembly. Here’s what I have now.







I will use a pull rod to actuate this Wilwood master cylinder holder with a brake bias bar and a remote adjustment knob.



This assembly will be on the inside of the firewall behind the pedals with the master cylinders pointed upward (at least that’s the plan).

Here is the pedal assembly mocked up in the car. I still have a lot of work to do.





Did I mention that I am no photographer?

I hope to get the pedals and master cylinders in this week so I can get back to the suspension.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Cool! Have you been logging labor hours on the car? You've really put a lot into it can't wait to see it on it's wheels again!

[Zspoiler]

Its nice to see people modify these cars. My first cat was a 1973 Nova SS 4 speed .Hatchback. Dark Green .black partial vinyl top.Magnum 500 14 x 7 wheels. Black vinyl interior. I was stationed in Southern California at the time ,And learned to never have that interior again, I put Cragar SS 14 x7 with Positraction tires D60 -14 front,G60-14 tires, It was a Pro-Touring car before there was such a thing.

[cornfedbill]

Its nice to see people modify these cars. My first cat was a 1973 Nova SS 4 speed .Hatchback. Dark Green .black partial vinyl top.Magnum 500 14 x 7 wheels. Black vinyl interior. I was stationed in Southern California at the time ,And learned to never have that interior again, I put Cragar SS 14 x7 with Positraction tires D60 -14 front,G60-14 tires, It was a Pro-Touring car before there was such a thing.

It sounds like it was a nice ride. The Hatchback Novas are rare. Mine I still also a hatchback. But the stock interior was white with red carpet. Not too bad in the summer.

[cornfedbill]

Cool! Have you been logging labor hours on the car? You've really put a lot into it can't wait to see it on it's wheels again!

Ben,

I haven’t logged my hours. I’m not sure I want to know the full cost of this build. I’m eager to get it back on it wheels and driving under its own power.

I am real eager to see what it will do in the 1 mile shootout at the Sandhills Open Road Challenge this summer. I know I’ll be out gunned by the high dollar builds and newer Corvettes. I’m contemplating a small plate-style nitrous system to help hit my 150 mph goal.

[cornfedbill]

I decided I needed to upgrade my MIG before I build my cage. I’ll still use it for a lot of the work. However, for critical welds and for aluminum I now have a better tool.



Now I just need to practice, practice and practice.