Project Scope Creep - '74 Nova Spirit of America

[cornfedbill]

Yes, it is, especially since bodywork is not my forte.

[Mach Par]

My first car was a '74 hatch. Sold it a few years ago cause I needed the money. I think I have some NOS hatchback badges in the garage somewhere if you need them.

[cornfedbill]

Out with the old steering to make room for the '88 IROC Z quick ratio box.



The control arms came off the subframe after 40 years together with very little effort. I need to replace the left one which was bent, clean them and install new Afco low friction bushings. They are steel with a bit of Delrin.

The subframe is unbolted and ready to remove. I need to make the proper modifications before I reinstall it. It will be about 2 inches higher than stock and will protrude through the floor just a bit. I will weld it back in and then tie it to the front leaf spring perch.

[cornfedbill]

My first car was a '74 hatch. Sold it a few years ago cause I needed the money. I think I have some NOS hatchback badges in the garage somewhere if you need them.

Thanks for the offer. This is a Spirit of America Nova with unique badges. I still have the hood and C-pillar badges. The fender badges are stickers I need to purchase or duplicate.

[SRD art]

Knowing how much you research you probably already know this but I thought I'd mention anyway. My understanding is that the Camaro boxes have built in steering stops that make old cars have the turning radius of a freight train. Not such a good combination on a tight autoX course. I'm not sure why the Camaros don't have a turning radius issue, maybe it has to do with their steering arms on the spindles?

The hot ticket seems to be go with a Jeep Grand Cherokee box, you get the 12.7:1 ratio and no stops. I bought an AGR box which looks exactly like a GM/ Jeep box for my car and then I found out I could have gotten pretty much the same thing in the Cherokee box for half the price. :/

Hindsight... right?

[cornfedbill]

I was too close not to drop the subframe. It is off and ready for modification...

[cornfedbill]

Knowing how much you research you probably already know this but I thought I'd mention anyway. My understanding is that the Camaro boxes have built in steering stops that make old cars have the turning radius of a freight train. Not such a good combination on a tight autoX course. I'm not sure why the Camaros don't have a turning radius issue, maybe it has to do with their steering arms on the spindles?

The hot ticket seems to be go with a Jeep Grand Cherokee box, you get the 12.7:1 ratio and no stops. I bought an AGR box which looks exactly like a GM/ Jeep box for my car and then I found out I could have gotten pretty much the same thing in the Cherokee box for half the price. :/

Hindsight... right?

I have the long pitman arm and medium spindle arms. I will see what I get.

[cornfedbill]

I picked up the steel I need for fixtures to move the subframe mounts! Cuttin' & weldin' tomorrow...

[cornfedbill]

I welded on some braces and guides and have begun cutting off the frame mounts. I should get them moved two inches back and one inch down later this week.

[cornfedbill]

I removed the mounts and began cleaning up the frame to reatach them. The fixtures look like they will work well.

I also started welding the frame seams.

Slow, but it's progress.

[cornfedbill]

I have the brackets almost ready to weld. They are moved back 2 inches and down one inch.

[cornfedbill]

The brackets are tacked in place. I ran out of wire for my welder. I'll be back at it after a trip to the local Ace Hardware.

I'm please with how they turned out so far.

[cornfedbill]

I had to extend the middle tab of the frame bracket one inch to mate properly in the now position. It looked okay. But I decided it would look better fully boxed. So I boxed in both brackets.

Now I am working on the rear mounts.

[cornfedbill]

Still moving slow. I started on the rear subframe mounts. I have the left one tacked in. I need to brace it and then set in the right one.

[Ben@SpeedTech]

Progress is progress, fast or slow. Keep it going, you're on a roll!

[cornfedbill]

Tacked on the right rear subframe bracket. I checked it all with a level. It turned out pretty square. I will brace them next week.

I also spent more time welding the frame seams. I am not sure how this thing stayed together for 41 years.

[cornfedbill]

Progress is progress, fast or slow. Keep it going, you're on a roll!

I am moving much faster than I have in the past few years. I am dreaming about having it running this summer. It is an aggressive goal. But I have to start somewhere.

I started this project before my 16 year old daughter was born. I am now getting very eager to drive it.

[cornfedbill]

I made a drill guide with holes spaced exactly 1 inch apart. I used a bolt to align it with the existing lower control arm bolt holes and a level to set it in place. I tack welded it so it would not move on me.

I drilled the passenger side lower control arm bolt holes.

Now I need to modify the control arms to buy a bit more clearance. It looks like it will work.

[cornfedbill]

My homemade alignment tool for my new lower control arm bolt holes. I used the existing hole, lined the tool up with a level,and tack welded it onto the frame so it would not move.




I clearanced the frame and installed the control arms. I need to check the travel and move the bump stops. I plan to turn the frame over again tomorrow and check for the proper amount of jounce. The goal is 4 inches of jounce.

When I get everything set, I will close the access holes I cut in the top of the frame.

[cornfedbill]

I finished welding the seams on the top of the frame except by the transmission mount. I will be rebuilding that part of the frame on the top side and making a new transmission crossmember from scratch (wish me luck).

The crossmember will sit completely above the floor where the exhaust passes underneath and then drop down to catch the transmission mount. I will brace it from the frame to the mount under the exhaust to provide a crossmember from frame rail to frame rail while still allowing maximum clearance for the exhaust.

I flipped the frame over and installed the lower control arms to see how they fit and to check clearance at full articulation.

This shows the arms installed into the new holes one inch above the OEM holes to give me a 1 inch drop and allowing me to get the ride height I want with the lower control arms virtually flat.


Here you can see the new versus old mounting bolt locations.


I am happy to see that where I need at least 2 inches of clearance to the frame for jounce travel, I have nearly 3 inches. As you can see, the stock bump stop is laying on the frame stop at the new desired ride height. I will need to move the frame stop and install smaller rubber bumpers on the control arms. I will also need to move the outer portion of the spring bucket so the control arm does not hit it.


But when the arms droop, there is contact between the control arm webbing and the crossmember. I will move the webbing to the outside so I can retain the strength and have the clearance I need.