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    Results 61 to 80 of 182
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by David LaBuda View Post
      What are you using for a parking brake?
      I'm going to use the parking brake kit from GMR, I'm not pressed about it right now because my car is an auto.



      http://thegmr.com/?page_id=1706

      When I get ready for paint and pull the body off, I'll weld the parking brake mounts and re powder coat the housing
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness


    2. #62
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Long Island, NY
      Posts
      118
      Country Flag: United States
      I love this build - your level of fabrication is awesome!

      Frank

      Long Island, NY

      1969 Chevy Nova - 370 LQ4/LS3, Procharger, TKO 600, 9" w/ 3.89's (always a work-in-progress)

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      I'm going to use the parking brake kit from GMR, I'm not pressed about it right now because my car is an auto.

      http://thegmr.com/?page_id=1706

      When I get ready for paint and pull the body off, I'll weld the parking brake mounts and re powder coat the housing
      That's what I was guessing. I have a hard time justifying $500 for parking brakes so I'd try and get my Camaro setup to work if I go the full floater route. I don't suppose anyone has any technical drawings of the fourth-gen backing plates?

      Chris, how do you like Moser's floater setup?
      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    4. #64
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by David LaBuda View Post
      That's what I was guessing. I have a hard time justifying $500 for parking brakes so I'd try and get my Camaro setup to work if I go the full floater route. I don't suppose anyone has any technical drawings of the fourth-gen backing plates?

      Chris, how do you like Moser's floater setup?
      If I had a full rear kit with parking brake like you do, I would probably try to do something like Ron did. My car is still in the assembly phase, so I can't say much about how I truly like the setup yet. Hopefully I will be able to have an informed opinion this spring.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      At this point I'm pretty sure I'll be going with a Strange 9 inch housing and axle package. I just don't like the brake options that are available for full floating setups. The Moser hubs are so long that I don't think a parking brake backing plate would fit without moving the control arm brackets.

      That being said, I still need to decide what I am going to do for a center section. I had planned on a setup from Strange Engineering, but I have been looking at used Nascar units. I don't have any experience with locking differentials so I would like some real world feedback. The car will mostly see street use but I would like to be competitive in autocross and some road racing. I also want a setup that will hold up to some passes at the drag strip. If I go with the locker route I would swap out to lighter springs to tame it down a bit. I have heard some bad things about tru-trac differentials and drag racing so I would like to stay away from them. As far as I can tell that leaves me with a locker or a billet clutch type limited slip differential. I'm kind of at a loss here, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    6. #66
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      San Antonio, TX
      Posts
      1,632
      Great fab work! I'm interested in seeing how you finish off the rear seat install.
      I have the same seats, but have not tackled the rear ones yet.
      I really like the work on the frame, kudos.
      Dave
      84 Monte SS - just a few bolt-ons

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Canterbury, CT
      Posts
      262
      Country Flag: United States
      Hello David
      Found your fantastic build thread but it suddenly ended in April....

      Your fab skills are top notch and I am especially interested in how the Global West front Coil over extenders worked out since I am planning the same mod. I have a '71 cutlass "S" I am making into a 442 tribute street car but with a pt/autocross/track car flair. Eric turned me onto the gw coilover extenders which make a whole lot of sense. Once I'm done installing the ABC frame narrowing/mini tub kit and boxing the frame, I was going to go for the extenders. Most of what you are doing is far beyond my abilities but reading super builds like this gives me the motivation to keep me going as well as to consider new ideas.

      Did you ever get to install the GW coil over extenders? If so, did you mig or tig weld them in? Are you happy with the quality? Would appreciate the input. And Pics if you got 'em.

      Thanks


      Gus
      Connecticut
      1971 Cutlass 442 pt tribute project WIP
      1971 Cutlass supreme convertible. RIP
      1995 Mazda MX5 Miata autocross and track day ride


    8. #68
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      It’s been a while, but I have a lot of progress to report. I ended up ordering a 9 inch housing and axle package from Strange Engineering. I couldn’t decide on a center section yet so I picked up a used 3.55 limited slip iron center off of craigslist. After finishing the rust repair on the new frame I assembled the suspension and tore the Chevelle apart in order to swap frames.

      I took a few pictures before blowing the car apart







      Some of the areas that needed repair



      The Strange 9 inch housing is a piece of art. It’s a shame it’ll be hidden under the car!


      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    9. #69
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States







      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    10. #70
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      The Global West coilover brackets needed a bit of modification because of the multiple lower control arm mounting holes. I would highly recommend this setup as an alternative to the rear mounted setup that most people use.












      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    11. #71
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States






      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    12. #72
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States


      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    13. #73
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Location
      Charlotte
      Posts
      1,295
      Just scrolled back to all 4 pages - I'm guessing that the car port is your spot to be working on the Chevelle?

      How has the Maxjax stood up to the elements being out in the 'open'?

      I have the Maxjax as well - but its inside my garage.

      Nice looking build - and love the frame work you've been doing to the chassis.
      2005 LeMans Blue Corvette w/ T56 & Z51 & C6Z06 Brakes, Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?64496
      2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD LLY / Allison
      2014 Chevy SS LS3 / 4 Door

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bonecrrusher View Post
      Just scrolled back to all 4 pages - I'm guessing that the car port is your spot to be working on the Chevelle?

      How has the Maxjax stood up to the elements being out in the 'open'?

      I have the Maxjax as well - but its inside my garage.

      Nice looking build - and love the frame work you've been doing to the chassis.

      It's holding up very well. I take the lift down when I'm not working on the car but it's usually up for most of the summer. I just make sure to clean the quick disconnect fittings before hooking everything up to keep the fluid clean.
      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    15. #75
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      I ordered the rear coilovers with 225 lb/in springs. I am not sure what rate to get for the front though. ridetech's online calculator is telling me I need 425 lb/in springs but when I called ridetech the recommendation was 650 lb/in springs. I am guessing a lighter spring would be better for me since I have the extended coilover bracket in the front. Does anyone have a recommendation?
      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    16. #76
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St. George, UT
      Posts
      1,144
      Country Flag: United States
      As an average rule of thumb with our suspension kits we recommend 550 for small block and LS cars and 650 for big block cars. On my 3550 lb G body wagon I currently run a 600 lb standard coil spring. It definitely rides stiff compared to original springs if that's what you have in there now. I'm switching to coilovers and am going with a 550 spring so I can use that little extra bit more of body roll to plant the tires on the autocross, and that will give me a little more adjustability in the shocks to play with.

      My suspension sensai taught me that stiffer springs are better in road course situations to better control the roll in high speed longer sweeping curves. Tuned and adjusted properly shocks help more in short fast turns like in an autocross. There's a bigger explanation than that, but so far what I've experienced he was right.

      I know a fellow that had 550s in his G-Body Malibu and couldn't get the car as low as he wanted. The coilover shock manufacturer recommended he go to 450 lb springs and the car dropped more. That car was not a racer, just a LOW street cruiser so it worked for him. For a big heavy Chevelle like yours 425 sounds way too light unless you want a grandma ride, or are of the new style of thinking that lots of suspension dynamics (more body roll) will be put to work to plant tires. If that's the case the whole suspension needs to match that theory, spring rate, shocks, and sway bar choices. Ron Sutton likes this theory, he might be a good one to talk to to learn more about it.

      Hope this gets you thinking...
      -Ben, Creative Director at Speedtech Performance
      We sell some really cool parts, build cool cars, and do cool concept renderings too!
      435-628-4300 www.speedtechperformance.com
      My Pumkinator build thread- https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=pumkinator

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Canterbury, CT
      Posts
      262
      Country Flag: United States
      Thank you Ben and David for discussing this subject in such detail. I plan on using the coil over extenders David has on my '71 442 tribute pt project, so I am following his thread closely. Good info all around.
      Thanks guys!


      Gus
      Connecticut
      1971 Cutlass 442 pt tribute project WIP
      1971 Cutlass supreme convertible. RIP
      1995 Mazda MX5 Miata autocross and track day ride


    18. #78
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      Ft Worth, TX
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Ben@SpeedTech View Post
      As an average rule of thumb with our suspension kits we recommend 550 for small block and LS cars and 650 for big block cars. On my 3550 lb G body wagon I currently run a 600 lb standard coil spring. It definitely rides stiff compared to original springs if that's what you have in there now. I'm switching to coilovers and am going with a 550 spring so I can use that little extra bit more of body roll to plant the tires on the autocross, and that will give me a little more adjustability in the shocks to play with.

      My suspension sensai taught me that stiffer springs are better in road course situations to better control the roll in high speed longer sweeping curves. Tuned and adjusted properly shocks help more in short fast turns like in an autocross. There's a bigger explanation than that, but so far what I've experienced he was right.

      I know a fellow that had 550s in his G-Body Malibu and couldn't get the car as low as he wanted. The coilover shock manufacturer recommended he go to 450 lb springs and the car dropped more. That car was not a racer, just a LOW street cruiser so it worked for him. For a big heavy Chevelle like yours 425 sounds way too light unless you want a grandma ride, or are of the new style of thinking that lots of suspension dynamics (more body roll) will be put to work to plant tires. If that's the case the whole suspension needs to match that theory, spring rate, shocks, and sway bar choices. Ron Sutton likes this theory, he might be a good one to talk to to learn more about it.

      Hope this gets you thinking...
      Do standard coil spring rates directly translate to coilover spring rates? If so, I guess I'd be looking at 525-600 lb/in springs? I need to place the order tomorrow so any last minute advice would be greatly appreciated!
      1970 Chevelle: 6.0 L96, T56, Strange 9 Inch, Ridetech Coilovers, Wilwood brakes

      1978 Firebird: 6.0 LQ4, T56

      2007 Sierra 2500HD LBZ


    19. #79
      Join Date
      Dec 2012
      Location
      Sugar Land , Texas
      Posts
      55
      Country Flag: United States
      Hi David,
      What size are your front tires? Thanks and keep up the good work.

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St. George, UT
      Posts
      1,144
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey David-

      Sorry I missed your question. You've probably already gotten an answer to the question if you placed your order, but yes, a 500 lb spring rate coil spring and a 500 lb spring rate coilover are the same, both will require 500 lbs to compress the spring 1".
      -Ben, Creative Director at Speedtech Performance
      We sell some really cool parts, build cool cars, and do cool concept renderings too!
      435-628-4300 www.speedtechperformance.com
      My Pumkinator build thread- https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=pumkinator

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