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  1. #221
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Glued the disk to the back side of the dash
    where the switch goes, it worked out great !!

    When I tried to fit the left side wiper shaft in place
    with the motor and other parts attached, the motor hits my
    hydraulic clutch MC pedal offset, which is centered on the
    MC, so I can't move that....



    I can rotate the wiper motor 120 deg in it's chassis, as long as
    I keep the critical alignment of the motor shaft relative to the
    "shut down" or "off" position of the motor shaft....

    But a close look here shows that I'm going to have to relocate the fuse panel,
    as that wiper motor will hit it in the new 120 deg clockwise relocated position !!



    Pulled the fuse panel and all that attached wiring out to make room....

    Also, if you look at the top of that last pix you'll see that I
    still have the stock defrost ducting in place, I found that I
    need to remove that as well....

    I have new Vintage Air system on order, I'm told that
    it will have new defrost ducting that will clear the Rain Gear setup....

    During all this, I've had several good conversations with the folks
    at Rain Gear, and they have been quite helpful....

    Then made sure the motor was in the "shut down" position,
    carefully loosened the nut on the motor where the drive arm is mounted,
    and pulled the motor off.



    With the motor off, carefully fitted the rest of the assembly into
    position under the dash, all looking good....
    Except....
    Getting some rubbing on the left side of my clutch offset
    against the right side of the wiper assembly,
    but I think I can deal with that once I get the wipers all in
    and aligned....



    I carefully remounted the motor in the new position,
    and carefully reattached the drive arm in the "off"
    or "shut down" position.



    Now let's see how well all this is going to fit....

  2. #222
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    There's an anchor bracket bolted to the firewall
    in the center of this pix, I had to bend it a bit to
    get the fit I wanted with clearance from the
    clutch pedal bracket....



    It all bolted together pretty well....



    Lots of clearance with the clutch pedal bracket....



    The escutcheon doesn't fit very well on the driver's side....



    No problem on the passenger's side....



    Think I'm going to remount the fuse panel cross wise and lower....


  3. #223
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Drilled a couple of holes, got some bolts and spacers, and it's good to go....



    Needed to rework that lower mounting bracket to pull the
    wiper chassis in toward the firewall, lifting the angle of
    the wiper shaft up to get a better fit....



    This is where it fits, that stud is where I'm trying to pull
    the assembly in toward the firewall....



    And it worked, I got lucky, it popped right into place
    after reworking that bracket....
    look at the pic above a ways to see the difference....



    And I still have clearance with the clutch pedal....

  4. #224
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Just noticed that the windshield washer nozzles on the escutcheons are missing, the holes plugged up with screws....



    Have not been able to find replacement nozzles, except already mounted on new escutcheons, so I ordered a new pair....

  5. #225
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    The BeCool radiator setup includes the
    front end AC stuff....



    And the motor has a new AC compressor....



    The rest of the Vintage Air system to go under the dash just arrived from Danchuck....



    Scratching my head and reading over 60 pages of instructions....
    And going over the parts, I have fond hopes of making this all work....

    The first thing is to fnish stripping the dash,
    which was already pretty much stripped,
    I pulled out the defrost vents, which will be replaced....



    And attached the mounting brackets on the evaporator unit....



    Hmmmm, hope I did that right....


  6. #226
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Lake Elsinore, CA
    Posts
    48
    Looking good.

    I have the same wiper setup and have been considering AC so I'm going to continue to watch as long as you continue to post.

    Keep it up!

  7. #227
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Although I've worked with classic cars all my life, never got involved with AC until this one, so taking my time and trying not to make too many mistakes!
    I was disappointed to learn that this Vintage Air setup does not include any option for outside air, it is strictly an inside air setup, I looked at possibly modifying it to include a choice of outside or inside air, and backed away from that idea. The original heating system had that option, but Vintage Air included a block off plate to cover the fresh air connection to the old heater.

  8. #228
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    I can only hope I won't mess up this install, or if I do it won't be too serious a problem, am learning a lot, over 60 pages of instructions, it's taking awhile for me to absorb all of it, and the install of the evaporator under the dash has not been easy !!!

    Had to trial fit the evap unit several times without the hard lines installed, so I could locate the mounting holes in the firewall and drill them. I had previously reworked the firewall, so "unnecessary" holes got welded up!! What fun!!

    These brackets look kinda flimsy to me, but it's what they came with....



    This side bolts to the bottom lip of the dash....



    I needed to bolt in place the two defrost ducts that came with the unit....



    Of course the holes provided did not match up, so drilled some new holes....
    No problem....



    Putting the hard lines on the evap unit was a bit of a horror show....



    These will never match that firewall cover plate



    Hmmm, can't seem to get them to look like this drawing....



    After lots of messing around with them this is the best I could get...



    But the unit would not go in under the dash
    with these hard lines installed until I cut
    the firewall access hole bigger, as you can
    see above, extending the hole further down,
    it was the only way I could get the unit
    to go in under the dash with the hard lines
    attached....

    It still took some wrestling around under the dash
    to get it to sort of line up in the original firewall hole....



    Not the best fit, but I think I can make it work....

    And I had to fab a cover plate for that larger
    firewall opening I had to cut....



    I think I can make this work ok,
    still have a long ways to go this this though....

  9. #229
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    New vents and cables came today....



    The old stuff was pretty rusted up,
    so I wanted new stuff....

    The screws holding the old parts in are something
    from way back, clutch head screws, they need
    a special screwdriver, I dug around in my Dad's old
    toolbox and found a screwdriver that would fit....
    I got lucky....







    Checking out the new vent cables and they are a bit too long,
    for how I want to fit them in there....
    so I'm going to shorten them to fit the way I want....


  10. #230
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Using a new '55 Chevy Pickup dash control, it's a bit different
    than the sedan control, but I think I can modify it to make it work OK !



    It comes apart pretty easily,
    All the old cable connections are being replaced with
    electrical sliders....



    The label window for the sedan version needed to be trimmed
    a bit to fit into the truck control panel...



    Looks good to me....



    These two levers for the temp control needed to be bolted together...



    This blower speed control replacement lever for the sedan version needs
    to be shortened to fit this control unit from a Chevy Truck....



    No problem at the knob end...



    Looks good to go....



    These electrical signal devices need 2" of travel and produce
    a zero to five ohm signal, I think this will work just fine....





    More later....

    (More pix HERE if you're interested....)

  11. #231
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Then the "mode control" lever (air flow to dash, defrost, floor)
    just below the fan speed control needed to be lengthened....



    And the second resistance slider (0 - 5 ohms) mounted....







    Now I need to figure out how to mount the temperature control unit...

  12. #232
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Got the ac to heat temp control sliders hooked up, it looks ok....



    More pix here if you want....

    Sorry I didn't post more, it's been a long day and I'm tired....
    -2Loose Willy

  13. #233
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    When I tried to fit the face plate for the controls in the dash opening,
    the opening was just a hair too narrow, so much for the claim that
    the '55 Chevy pickup unit will fit in the sedan!!!

    The edges of the opening are rolled in, so with a body hammer,
    I carefully "rolled" the left side edge until the face plate fit....



    I got a good fit, now I find that the face plate for the truck is shorter
    than the sedan, so there's an opening at the bottom....



    Made an adapter plate to bolt the bottom of the face plate
    into position in the dash, keeping the top located as
    high up in the opening as I can....



    Cut a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, drilled it and tapped it to match
    the two holes in the face plate and the two holes at the
    bottom of the dash opening....





    Had a box of various length of #12-24 screws, so used those....



    It bolted right up and is nice and solid....



    While I had the unit partially apart, painted everything that I could,
    and reassembled it after everything was dry....



    Everything is looking good, full function and movement on all controls....



    Heat/cold controls (vertical sliders) all the way up at full cold



    Now all the way down for full heat....



    The upper controls, the fan is off, the air flow is at the dash....



    Air flow (lower lever) at the dash outlets...



    Fan (upper lever) at max....



    How am I going to get this into the dash opening ???



    It took removal of a couple of parts, some jiggling around, but I got it in....



    Plugged in the control harness to the three slider units,
    The controls still move nicely without hitting anything,
    and the unit is mounted nice and solid....

    I still have quite a bit of wiring to do before
    I can put power to this unit and test it out...
    Soon though....


  14. #234
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Back to the wiring project in general....
    Looking at the fuel pump....
    It came with a diagram,
    a relay, and a breaker switch...



    OK, here's a good question, which side of that circuit breaker
    do you connect the battery side to, the bronze colored one,
    or the silver colored one ??

    Since the battery is in the trunk, near the fuel pump in the fuel tank,
    I'm putting the relay and circuit breaker back here.
    Ran a blue wire back from the dash, and will put
    a toggle switch under the dash for emergency shutoff of the fuel pump !



    Am thinking of just mounting both the circuit breaker
    and the relay just above the battery...



    There are side terminals on this battery,
    I could do this hookup off of those,
    but the main cables have an auxillary connector,
    and I think I will just use those...



    I'm looking for a nice looking box I can mount
    those parts in, maybe even one that
    has a logo like "condom dispenser"
    or some such idiocy....

    Move Later...

  15. #235
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Lake Elsinore, CA
    Posts
    48
    Here's how I did my battery and fuel pump wiring on my '55.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  16. #236
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Looks good, Thanks !

  17. #237
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    453
    Just catching your latest updates, going all the way up to your windshield wiper struggles. If football is a game of inches car building is a game of 32nds of an inch.
    Cars are meant to be driven.

    John B

  18. #238
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Ordered a roll over protection switch for this fuel pump....


  19. #239
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    The new "roll over protection" switch for the fuel pump arrived,
    cut a piece of aluminum plate to hold the circuit breaker,
    the relay, and the roll over switch....



    Some drilling and tapping for 10-24 screws...



    Bolted it in place with some wing nuts...



    Now to wire it up....

  20. #240
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    211
    Got it wired up, wire from the dash back to the roll over protection
    on the right, then to the relay in the middle.....
    Then the battery connection to the breaker on the left, then over
    to the relay, finally through the floor in the corner behind the battery .
    inside a rubber hose, over to the fuel tank and fuel pump....



    Still need to connect a ground to the fuel pump....



    All hooked up and ready to go....


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