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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Camas, WA
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      There are a few threads on here that are a take off of the Vox inspired P1800. I am new to Volvo's and was lured to them because of the beautiful lines of the cars as well as the the Vox modern interpretation of the classic. As I started to do some research about the cars 10 months ago there wasn't much info out there about putting a V8 in these cars. Most people had to cut the car up pretty bad to position the engine where it needed to be, behind the suspension.

      Then I ran across some threads from Iamtheonlyreal1 and I was intrigued. Long story short I decided to pick up a good "core" to start with. My 68 had not been driven since the early 90's. The engine would not turn over because of electrical issues. I am in the process of stripping the car. The interior is out with the exception of the dash. The engine, transmission and suspension has been removed from the car. I borrowed a rotisserie from a friend which should make the removal of the undercoating much easier.

      Here are my plans for the car. I have already ordered the front and rear suspension kits from Iamtheonlyreal1 or Swedish Ops. I opted for 14" front brakes with 6 piston calipers up front. The rear end will be an 8.8 from a Ford Explorer. It will be sporting 14" discs with 4 piston calipers to match the front.

      The engine will be and LS. I am not sure if I will go with and LS6, LS3 crate engine or the Cadiliac CTS-V LSA supercharged engine. I am leaning toward the LS6 at this time. Just how much power do you need? The transmission will be an automatic, 4L60E or 700R4. I plan on driving the car on a regular basis and don't want to be stuck in traffic playing with the clutch. I have a T56 6 speed in my classic Mustang now and it is a pain in that situation.

      Where am I at now? As I mention the car is pretty close to being stripped. I need to decide if I want to blast it or dip the car. I know both hasve advantages and disadvantages but I am leaning more toward dipping so that I can be sure all rust is gone.

      I mentioned that I am using an 8.8" Ford Explorer rear end and here is why. The bolt pattern is the same as the front suspension. You can pick up a good core with 31 spline axles, traction lock and disc brakes for $175. I narrowed my rear end by 3" so that it would fit the car. It was actually easier to narrow the rear than I thought it would be. Since the Explorer has a long side and a short side axle I simple pressed out the axle tube, cut it down 3" and pressed it back in. I then went to the wrecking yard and purchased another short side axle. There are a few more steps than that but you get the idea. I have spent another $200bucks or so on wheel bearing, seals and clutch packs to rebuild the track lock. This is a very affordable option when you compare it to a 9" Ford.

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      I have had the car for about a year now and I decided to start a thread on Pro-Touring. I would love to hear some feedback and share the experience with you guys. I will have a couple other posts to get you caught up on the build.