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    Results 861 to 880 of 902
    1. #861
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Location
      Irvine, CA
      Posts
      9
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      The car went off to get the tuning done and shorten the harness. A local company, English Racing, who normally does a lot of Evo, GTR and boosted car feel that they can do the job. I wanted to get a picture of the car on the tow truck but the driver was really late. This is the best I got for now.
      Attachment 191315


      I also have a guy from New Zealand that will be able to make some new door glass for me. The current glass just doesn’t have the right curvature on the top and it does not seal as well as I want it to. That will take about 45 days to complete. I may have to install that after the interior is in the car.
      Would you mind sharing who you used for the side glass? I'm just finishing up my latest build on a '70 Boss 302 and remodeling a new house. Should be back to my Vox build pretty soon. Will be ordering the flush front and rear soon too. I have dodge durango glass picked out for the sides, but if I can get someone to make custom glass that's even better.

      On a different note, I found a company that just started selling a corvette knuckle/hub for the mustang II IFS. I can now run 13" discs on the front from a stock corvette and run regular wheels instead of being limited with the MII spindles. So much better! I guess the 6 year delay on the build has lead to some good things.

    2. #862
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      My glass guy used a Transit Van windshield for side glass. It looks good but doesn't have the right curvature to seal like it needs to so I am now going a different direction. I am having a glass company outr of New Zealand make me glass for the doors. They used the original 1800 door glass for the contour and are making it with using templates that I send down there. They have been in lockdown since my template arrived but hopefully soon they will start to work on the glass. I will give the details out on the company when I get the glass back and it works like it is supposed to. Until then I won't pass the name on. I will be the guinea pig for now, kind of like the front and rear glass.

      What I will say is that making the door glass will be more money than the front and rear glass, maybe twice as much. You better be committed to doing the modification if you decide to go down this path. Custom glass work makes body work look cheap. Another option would be to reach out to Fesler about making door glass. He offered that to me but it would not fit in the timeline I needed for my car.

    3. #863
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Since you're having them make custom glass, are you going to buy an extra set, just in case they get broken?
      Otherwise, you're starting all over, I assume?

    4. #864
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      For the amount of money it is costing me I will let the insurance company pick up the tab for the next set if something happens to this set. They will have a pattern so it will be slightly cheaper if there is a next time. This set of door glass is $3500 plus $200 to ship the templates and I don’t know how much shipping the glass from NZ to Washington State will be. It the additional cost was $1500 I would buy another set.

    5. #865
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Roger that. Yea, that's a bit pricey but I agree, the insurance company can take care of it.
      Rock on man, great build.

    6. #866
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      53
      Country Flag: United States
      Hi Darreld,
      Could you please remind us (me), who did the front & rear glass for you, and roughly how much it was?
      Thanks, GRC

    7. #867
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      The front and rear glass was made by Fesler. The situation for me was a little different than it is now. I approached them to make it for these cars and Chris said yes but to make it happen I had to buy them a car to use as a template. He got the car and I got the first set of glass.

      It was about a 3 year project to get it done. We think they are a little under $2,000 now for the front and rear set. I am into it for $3,000, the price of the car.

      https://www.shopfesler.com/products/...less-glass-kit

    8. #868
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      The car made it down to the tuner on Sunday. I hope to have a running/driving car very soon. I may not be able to have it dyno tuned until after the interior is done but that is ok with me. I just want to hear the thing run! Pics and video to come soon.

    9. #869
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking forward to it!

    10. #870
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      We ran into some problems. The tuner didn't like how I ran some of the wiring near the battery and wanted to redo it. We got to the point of starting the car up and noticed some metal on metal sounds. It appears that I may have an issue with my transmission, converter or pump. We are now going to have to pull the transmission which is not an easy task on this car. It requires removing the full exhaust, (including passenger header), and removal of the torque arm. I am going to go over and help him do the work since I am so familiar with the car. I hope to have it removed and replaced in a day.

      Another item that has surfaced is with the accessory drive. He noticed that the crank pulley is not quite deep enough for the belt to run straight. It is a Vintage Air Front Runner but I added a Texas Speed rotating assembly. Not sure if that would cause the problem with the crank pulley alignment (off about .2") or if the ATI balancer is not fully on. The ARP crank bolt is fully seated so I am a little confused. If anyone has a thought please speak up.

      Not the update I wanted to share but it is what it is. Time to pull the car back apart...…….

    11. #871
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      767
      Country Flag: United States
      Not sure on the balancer, but do they make shims? If not, wouldn't take much to have one machined.

    12. #872
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      53
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      We ran into some problems.

      Not the update I wanted to share but it is what it is. Time to pull the car back apart...…….
      Teething pains, this too shall pass.

    13. #873
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      The balancer issue may take a bit of research. I have a Texas Speed forged crank and a vintage Air front runner serpentine setup. The tuner thinks that the crank my not have the same snout as a stock LS3 crank. The ATI balancer has a steel sleeve that mounts on the crank and then the balancer mounts to that. He feels that I may need to get a new steel sleeve with more backspacing. As it is the balanced does not slide far enough back. It is mounted all the way on so that is not the issue.

      It looks like I have a couple calls to make on Monday. I hope there is a new sleeve that I can buy to fix this issue.

    14. #874
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      I hope they have a fix for you and its not a big problem.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    15. #875
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      Always something until we're done. I hope it's a simple fix .

    16. #876
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      475
      Balancer issues that I have seen.....

      - The use of the wrong sprocket that drives the oil pump. This is what the balancer bottoms out on. Easy to mix up a double roller and single roller sprocket. This only applies to aftermarket kits. The use of a LS7 sprocket will also make the balancer poke out more.

      - Snout length really doesnt matter, for the most part. The only thing that would make a big difference is if it was setup for a LS7 dry sump. The snouts are longer and wont let the balancer bottom out on the oil pump sprocket. If you pull the crank bolt out, you should see that the crank sits in about a 1/4". If it is flush with the balancer, thats the issue.
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    17. #877
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GrayRaceCat View Post
      Teething pains, this too shall pass.
      Agreed, that it's a bummer, but you'll get it all straightened out. I'd almost lean towards the balancer not being seated all the way. Is the crank keyed? Did the possibly use the wrong key or too long of a key that doesn't allow it to seat?



      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD


    18. #878
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      It has been a long time since I have had an update. This is an update but not a good one. We ran into some issues when we started to crank the engine over to start the tuning process. We heard some grinding sound that we thought was coming form the transmission. The engine was also very difficult to turn over by hand. Because of these issues we never started the engine. We were also running into quite a few clearance problems with the transmission pan and the exhaust. This really had me questioning everything because the exhaust was prefabbed before tearing the car apart for final body and paint.

      As it turns out, the mock up transmission used was for a 5.3LS and the transmission guy is telling me that the bellhousing on my block has a different bolt pattern than the earlier LS's or maybe it is just the 5.3L engines. I am a little unsure. To top that off the mock up transmission (using the 5.3 bellhousing is about 1/2" shorter than the later style bellhousing. That was causing the transmission mount to be off, exhaust clearance problems..... To fix the situation I either have to find an aftermarket bellhousing that has the correct depth and bolt pattern or cut and weld my two bellhousing to make one that is the correct depth and has the right bolt pattern. I think we are going to go down that path since I am unsure what other clearance issues come up with an aftermarket bellhousing.

      After we pulled the transmission out and discovered the issue above we were still not able to turn over the engine. So, out it came. This is a brand mew rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, bearings..) from Texas Speed in my factory block that was bored out. After the pan was pulled this morning there is excessive wear on the main bearings. It looks like there is 80,000 miles on it not 8 rotations of the crank. Something is obviously wrong with the setup. It now is being taken back down to see why there is an issue. The engine builder who is also my tuner said he has had problems with TSP kits in the past with similar issues but also said we will need to make sure that the block does not need to be line bored. Seems like that should have been checked before but what do I know.

      There doesn't seem to be any damage to the crank or rods so I hope this is a simple fix. Taking the engine out was a project. Everything is so tight and if you miss a step to remove a part in the right order it makes the job impossible. So glad I didn't already charge the AC system and the other small stuff like that. So frustrated but oh well.

      I wish it was a better update than this. Anyone want to buy a Volvo?

    19. #879
      Join Date
      May 2012
      Location
      Kansas City, Missouri
      Posts
      665
      Country Flag: United States
      These cars can be so annoying sometimes. Im sorry to hear about all the problems. It is funny sometimes how stuff they should have done doesnt get told until it happens. Hang in there and keep working on it. You will get it figured out and have a beautiful car. Good luck!

    20. #880
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm sorry for your setback. People have all kinds of flip comments to try to minimize what has happened but in my world, all this means is it's time to go back to work and do the best you can to not scratch stuff up. When you get the block and all of the rotating parts measured, I'm sure you will find what has happened. As the saying goes: it's always darkest before the sun comes up. You're still very close on an exceptional car. I'm rooting for you.

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