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    Page 5 of 44 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 15 ... LastLast
    Results 81 to 100 of 869
    1. #81
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      After spending the last month working on house projects I can finally get back to the Volvo project. I'm almost done with the driveshaft tunnel. There's just a small section next to the shifter I need to weld. After that I'll be able to put the car back on a rotisserie and weld the bottom then prime and undercoat. Picture of the radiator and back portion of the driveshaft tunnel.

      I picked up a new radiator today from Mac's radiator in Portland. I had them designed exactly what I wanted. It is about 4 inches wider than the factory radiator and has the transmission cooler I need. I think it turned out awesome!

      Attached Images Attached Images        


    2. #82
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I took a step backwards this week. I pulled the engine, tranny, front suspension crossmember, rear suspension and steering column the other day. This car is so familiar and easy to work on that it only took about 2.5 hours to do all that! I also put it on the rotisserie in that time period.

      Now I can flip it over, weld it from the bottom, epoxy prime and then hit it with some more Raptor liner (truck bed liner). After that I can address the fuel system, plumbing and wire it so that I can start the engine/tranny.

    3. #83
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      North Hollywood Speedometer sent me a picture of my rebuilt gauges today. They should be done by the end of the week. They have some work to do to the water temp gauge. I can't wait to get my hands on them!

    4. #84
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Well all the metal work is done to the firewall, transmission and driveshaft tunnels. I have a couple misc unused holes to fill and I will be ready to prune and undercoat.

      Since I no longer have the original seat belt mounts I need to add those. I am not sure where I want to place the front mounts though. There was a bolt the is currently there but is not large enough for the seat belt. Can someone on here tell wat it was originally used for?

      I was thinking of placing the bolt/mounting plate where the silver dot is. It is at the same location as the mount on the outside of the car. What do you think?


      Here are a couple pictures of the final shape of the metal work. The area around the steering column was by far the most complex. It is tight around there. There is a small flat spot to the left of the column that is ther to mount the DBW throttle pedal.



      Here are a couple pictures of the speedo.

    5. #85
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Let's see if the speedo pics work this time.


      Nope.

    6. #86
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I've had a little bit more time to work on the car recently. I was able to complete the metalwork, prime the car again with epoxy and then undercoat the bottom of it with Raptor Liner. I had some Raptor Liner left over so I coated the inside floor of the vehicle as well. I really cleaned up the look. I think it looks nice.

      I have now started working on the plumbing. The master cylinder and proportioning valve are in. I am working on the front brakes. I had to order a few fittings to work with the stainless tubing so it will be a few days before that arrives. Once it arrives I will have all the fittings I need to do the brakes, fuel and air conditioning.

      Once that is completed I plan on doing the wiring. I want to get the car so it will actually start and drive before I take it to the body shop. I am in no hurry to take it to the body shop though. I plan on using the flush mount glass kit that Swedish Ops is building but it doesn't sound like it will be ready until this coming summer.

      Here are a few pictures of the car right now.





      I had a couple helpers to assist in assembly. It was right before bed so they are wearing their "work jammies". LOL!

    7. #87
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      48,662
      Country Flag: United States
      Digging it - I used to own this Car, the "Official Car for the 12 Hours of Sebring 1963 & 64"

      T.C.

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      BMR SUSPENSION
      T.C. Davis




      813-986-9302 Phone
      813-986-8055 Fax
      [email protected]
      www.BMRSuspension.com
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    8. #88
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      That is a cool piece of history. How long did you own it? I think it is kind of funny that it originally had 108 hp and I am pusing it up to 520 and only gaining a few pounds of weight (if any) over stock. This will be a fun car when it is done. My only regret is that the car was not running when I started this. It would have been fun to feel the difference in the car.

    9. #89
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I haven't worked on the car for over a week since I was on vacation. I needed a little vitamin D! When I was gone some of the plumbing items came in so I should be able to get back at it. I have done a little research and have decided to have a different shop do the metal work than the shop that will be painting. I think I will have http://www.schroederspeed.com/ do the metal work since that is all they do. Thehourly rate is more but I think they should be able to get it done quickly. They will likely have it for 2-3 months and then off to the painter for final smoothing and spray. Schroeder says they likely have 4-5 weeks solid of work for a guy with the mods I want to do. The work they do is spectacular! Check out the link to the projects they have done in the past. I swear you could clear coat the bare metal and be happy.

      The main reason for doing this is the time it may be in the body shop. My painter is very busy and it looks like it may be there a little longer than I would like it to be. I am sure his skills are there to do the job, I just question if it would be in the timeline I like.

    10. #90
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      48,662
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      That is a cool piece of history. How long did you own it? I think it is kind of funny that it originally had 108 hp and I am pusing it up to 520 and only gaining a few pounds of weight (if any) over stock. This will be a fun car when it is done. My only regret is that the car was not running when I started this. It would have been fun to feel the difference in the car.
      I didn't own it very long unfortunately. I got it in a 3 Way Trade. A friend of mine Traded a Porsche 911S Motor for the Volvo & I traded a Ford F150 Harley Davidson for a Porsche 914-6 and the Volvo. Then the AssHat who had the Volvo wouldn't send the Title. He had moved to CA & I tried to fight it out with him, but I ended up giving the Car back as I didn't want a Legal Fight or the Hassles of having a Weird Title on a Car that had History.

      T.C.

      BMR SUSPENSION
      T.C. Davis




      813-986-9302 Phone
      813-986-8055 Fax
      [email protected]
      www.BMRSuspension.com
      Like us on Facebook!

    11. #91
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      It has not been a very productive month. Between going on vacation and a family member dying I've been pretty busy. I have made progress on the plumbing of the car. The fuel line is in from the tank to the engine compartment. The brake lines for the rear of the vehicle are done. I'm waiting on a fitting to fit the front brake lines.

      Sam came over a few weeks ago and helped me out on a couple things. He identified that my ratio for my manual break pedal was off. I ended up raising the master cylinder about 2" to get to a 7:1 ratio. He also helped me out on some wiring questions I had particularly with the layout.

      I picked up my new gas tank today. I had it made locally and I think it turned out great! I rerouted the inlet hose to make room for a dual exhaust and I plan on doing a little bit different set up for the gas cap.



      I have some body damage on the rear valance. Once it is repaired the gas tank should be pretty much even with the rear of the car. I'm actually thinking about taking it over and having a black anodized finish put on it. That one only cost me about $50, will make it look better and help it disappear.

    12. #92
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I haven't worked on the car much lately. I've started to rewire my old Mustang. I do have the engine back in as well as the transmission in its final position.
      I started laying out the hoses and I've had to buy a couple new AC ends since I don't like the angles on a couple. I've put the wiring harness on the engine but have not drilled a hole in the firewall. I must say that the Easy Performance harness I purchased goes in very easily. LOL!

      My next obstacle is finding a place for an air filter. It's really tight in there and with the addition of an overflow tank I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. If anyone has a suggestion I'm all ears!

      I also need to fabricate a mount for one of the coils. It has a slight interference with the brake pedal assembly.

    13. #93
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I spent the majority of the day finishing the wiring. I had to tighten up some hoses as well as install a temporary gas cap on the new gas tank. I think all I have left to do is put water in the radiator and put some gas in it. After that I should be ready to fire it up. I was hoping to have that done today but I couldn't get it completed before I have to start to barbecue.

      Later tonight I'll doublecheck I have all the wires I need connected. I almost forgot, I still need to install my oxygen sensors in the down pipes. If I can I will hook my Borla mufflers directly to the down pipes.

    14. #94
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      We'll I was able to start the car up today. It runs for about a second then turns off. I had the computer reprogrammed from the Escalade tune to a Vette Tune and they were supposed to shut off the VATS but I am questioning that now. I also forgot to put a ground on the engine to the chassis so I will do that in the morning and see if that corrects the problem. I don't have a code reader but it looks like I will need to invest in one. Any other ideas for simple things to check?

    15. #95
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Norfolk, VA
      Posts
      541
      Country Flag: United States
      I think the ground is likely to be part of your issue. My 2003 Z06 was VERY susceptible to bad grounds. On multiple occasions I had to clean both grounding points on the frame, and once, after doing a head swap and neglecting to completely tighten the ground on the driver side cylinder head, I was getting symptoms similar to yours....it would crank, fire, and die because the bolt was not tight and the wire would be making contact, and then back off once the motor torqued over. Good luck, let us know how it goes!!

    16. #96
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I tracked down what I think is the problem in the wiring. I added another ground and it did the same thing. It starts up and then dies right away. I'm not sure so I am taking the computer over to be reprogrammed for my camshaft and to make sure that the VATS are turned off. I hope to have it back tomorrow or Wednesday. Wants Performance is doing the computer work. They will also dot chassis dyno once everything is done.

      In the meantime I was able to fabricate a new throttle body mount for my air filter. I offset the hole and was able to use the rest of the assembly. I still need to tap a hole in the mount for a hose to connect to the passenger side valve cover.

    17. #97
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,188
      Country Flag: United States
      Did you check the ECU for codes. Mine did the same thing. I checked the ECU for codes and it showed MAF code. Turned out it was vacuum leaks (had a couple of ports on the intake open). Plugged those up and the engine started right up and stayed running.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

    18. #98
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I think we found the problem. The VATS were still turned on. I did not have the chance to try it again last night but will this evening. I purchased a code reader so I will be able to check the codes if there are any now. I hope this solves the problem so that I can take the car apart and send it off to paint.

    19. #99
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks like the VATS were the problem. She is ALIVE!!!!


    20. #100
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,188
      Country Flag: United States
      Glad you found the problem. Car sounded good.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap

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