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    Page 4 of 41 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 14 ... LastLast
    Results 61 to 80 of 806
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Supra.

      I am starting to get some of the interior planned now. I will be sending off the gauges to North Hollywood Speedometer today. I will have them rebuilt unless the cost is way out of my range. In the process they will convert the tach to V8, change the speedo to an electric unit and customize the faces a bit. I need to get a sample of the interior leather I will be using before I can send it off so that the gauges can be pulled into the rest of the scheme I have planned. I considered using an off the shelf gauge but none seem to fit just right. The verticle oil/water gauge kind of messes things up. If I changed out the gauges I would then need to redo all the aluminum on the face of the dash. That gets expensive and I am not sure I could duplicate the look of the original. I think Volvo did a great job with the layout of the early 1800's and don't want to deviate too much from it.

      I ordered a Vintage Air AC system last night but I did not order any of the vents. I still have some planning to do on the vent layout before I commit to a specific type. There just isn't a place in the dash that will look good to add vents in my opinion. I will have to come up with a different solution. I have some ideas but I need to get the transmission tunnel completed before I go too far and to do that I need to get the engine in its final resting spot.



      I received the paddle shifter and transmission controller this week. The engine harness has to be made and will be about 3-4 weeks before it is completed. I plan on putting all the wiring (engine computer, transmission controller and fuse box) behind the back seat but in front of the trunk. It should clean up the wiring under the dash and make it much easier to work on later if I need to. It will all be hidden behind the seat and I will have a package tray made to enclose it from the top. The back of the rear seat will fold forward or be removable for easy access to the wiring.

      It looks like my personal life may be starting to slow down a bit and I should be able to get some of the parts I have been stockpiling on the car. About the only thing I haven't planned out mechanically is the fuel tank. I have some time before that is the bottle neck so I am not worried. I am debating building a new top for my tank (pretty rusted) or waiting for Sweedish Ops to finish up on their tanks. It will be sometime this Fall/Winter before that becomes the most important part.


    2. #62
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      Here is a picture of my steering wheel mounted on the Twist Machine paddle shifter. Thanks Steve!




      Darreld
      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I had a little time to work on the car today and started a couple projects. Earlier in the week I received my Vintage Air kit and realized I have a clearance issue with the condenser. It was about a 1/4" too high. It was 12" high by 24" wide. When the hood raises it is pretty close to the hinges.




      I decided to buy a piece of 1" x 1" x .065" tubing. I cut out 1 side and then cut out a section of the panel behind the grill and in front of the radiator support. Since I was working in this part of the car I decided to open up the radiator support to the frame rail. This will allow me to run a 16" x 24" radiator.



      I still need to weld everything in place and to add a drain in the bottom of the channel so water doesn't pool and cause rust. It should look great when I am done and be very functional.


      Darreld
      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I was able to finish up on the condenser mount today. I wend down the the hardware store a purchased a 3/8" pre-made brake/gas tube. I cut it down and welded the flare side to the bottom of the channel. I just need to weld the brake tube to the bottom of the crossmember then trim it so that it is flush. I forgot about that until I had everything put away. LOL!

      Here are a couple pictures.






      Darreld

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      I ordered the headlights for the car earlier this week from BlackFlameCustoms. They will look very much like these. The LED's will be fore the turn signals and the Halo's will be for the driving lights. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nw8ncz0TQkM

      I also heard back from North Hollywood Speedometer today. The estimate fit in my budget and I asked them to proceed. They will convert the speedo to electronic, rebuild the tach with new inners, rebuild the oil pressure gauge since I had to cut it off the original engine, convert the clock to quartz and refresh the rest of the gauges. I will have them paint the original blue in the center of the gauges to what the car will be painted. It is a Ferrari color called Grigio Silverstone. The charcoal color should look great with the red interior I have planned. http://www.flickr.com/photos/rimoli/...7623665577898/

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      I had a chance to put the engine in the car today. It went in without any problems. The Swedish ops engine stands and headers worked out great. It sits about 1" further back than my original mock up position. That has solved one problem but created another.

      The radiator now has plenty of room for either a puller or pusher fan. Before I was questioning if I could use a puller like I wanted. That isn't an issue now.

      The problem that developed is with the steering. I had it all planned out and now one of the header tubes interferes with my u-joint. Not a big deal but it now forces me to redesign that area. I should have waited to get all my conversion pasts from Swedish Ops before cutting. The one thing I haven't tried was to raise the engine via the adjustable motor mounts. That may fix the problem but I did not think about it until my wife started to give me a hard time for spending a few hours in the garage.





      I think my Dad may come over tonight and help me put in the 4L60E automatic transmission tonight. When it is in I should be able to finish up the steering, trams tunnel and start on the driveshaft tunnel.
      Attached Images Attached Images        
      Last edited by 68EFIvert; 09-01-2013 at 11:45 PM. Reason: added photos

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      I now have the transmission in place and can focus my efforts to the firewall/steering shaft and then the transmission and driveshaft tunnels. It has been busy around the house lately so I haven't had much time to work in the garage.

      I still need to do a little work on the transmission mount. I need to make some plates where the bolts go through the frame rails. I hope to have that done later this evening after the kids go to bed.

      Name:  transmission 1.jpg
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      Name:  transmission 2.jpg
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    8. #68
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Posts
      448
      Country Flag: United States
      outstanding! i'm gonig to be following this thread!

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      South Lyon, MI
      Posts
      1,170
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you considered turning the intake 180 degrees and putting the inlet and filter at the base of the windshield?

      This is a very cool project. It will be awesome when it is complete.

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      Thanks guys. It should be pretty different when it is done. I thought about reversing the intake but changed my mind and ended up welding the old vent hole to the engine compartment closed. I am now thinking about how I may use a hood scoop to create a ram air setup.

    11. #71
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,431
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool build. Nice fab work, keep the updates coming!
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    12. #72
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      After thinking about it for a few days I started working on my transmission tunnel today. I want the transmission tunnel to be as small as possible but strong. I don't have an English wheel so I can't make it out of one piece very easily.

      I decided to create a frame around the shape I want using a combination of angle iron and flat stock. I designed a wide but short lower level to hide the valve body. I will start wrapping it tomorrow with 16g sheetmetal. It is a little heavy for this job but 18g wasn't readily available. It looks pretty crude now but I think it will work out well and look nice when completed.

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Texan Back in Texas!
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks good, have to work with what you got. I had the same issue, no real way to make a nice curve out of thicker steel so I went with a more boxed approach and just integrated the console into the tunnel.
      1965 Falcon Hardtop

      However long you think your project will take, double it and you might be halfway right.

      Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...847#post798847

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Posts
      13
      I just purchased this English wheel. It is kind of small, but it should work for the jobs that I need it for. I have not tried it yet.

      http://www.grizzly.com/products/Benc...h-Wheel/T25101

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Texan Back in Texas!
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Very cool, and a great price. Let us know the quality of the tool, might look into one myself.
      1965 Falcon Hardtop

      However long you think your project will take, double it and you might be halfway right.

      Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...847#post798847

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States
      $80 for an english wheel. I am also interested to see how it works. It doesn't look like it would be large enough for a tranny tunnel but may work well for a driveshaft tunnel.

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I did a little bit more on the trams tunnel today. I am leaving the tail section alone until I figure out the driveshaft tunnel. About 3 more hours and I will be done with this part!



    18. #78
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      31
      Country Flag: United States
      This is a really nice build! Thanks for sharing the images!

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I ran into a problem with the driveshaft tunnel. The fab shop could only roll a tunnel 5.75" wide. I had buy a 4.5" exhaust tube and then use my metal shears to cut it in half. I then got a half sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal and cut it down to 6" strips. I will weld the 3 pieces together to make the tunnel I need. When I get the pieces back from the fab shop I can finish up the rear of the trams tunnel and all the ds tunnel.

      I am having the fab shop use their bead roller to run a 1/2" flange on the sheet to make it easier to weld together. I have a manual bead roller but I don't think it will work on this thick of metal.

      I still need to finalize the steering shaft location. I have it eyed out but just don't have much time to finish it. Once that is done I can finish the last part of the trans tunnel by the drivers feet.

      I can also finish the back of the trans tunnel and driveshaft tunnel when I get the stuff back from the fab shop.



    20. #80
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      592
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I haven't had much time to work on the Volvo lately. Been building a deck and hope to have it done this weekend. Here is what I have done this month. I have the steering worked out along with the brakes. I installed the Lokar shifter and routed the shifter cable. That was a major pain in the butt since I have kept everything as tight as I can.

      I have the driveshaft in and a large porting of the driveshaft tunnel. I finished the shifter last night and can now finish the tranny tunnel. I still have to raise the driveshaft tunnel near the rear end but that will be pretty easy to do. When I finish up all the welding I will take it apart again and put it in the rotisserie. While on thee I will weld the bottom, undercoat and plumb the car.






      Darreld
      Sent from my iPhone

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