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    Page 43 of 44 FirstFirst ... 33 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 LastLast
    Results 841 to 860 of 869
    1. #841
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      201
      Call PRE on airport way for a tune and whatever else you need. They have been doing my work for years and very reputable.
      https://www.preracing.com/



    2. #842
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I was hesitant to call them as I have heard some bad information about them. I am glad to hear they have done well for you. It is worth a phone call. I still think I will modify my own harness at this point but will still need a tuner.

    3. #843
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      Can you guys help me identify the style of connector I need for these plugs? The first is my MAP sensor. I need a plug for this one.
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      This one is for my fuel pump plug. I need pins and the male plug for this one. Basically the other side of it.
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      This is for my O2 sensor. I need new pins for this plug.
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      My knock sensor. Need new pins for this plug.
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      Finally the crank position sensor. Need née pins for this one.
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      Once I have the pins for there’s I can start my repining of the harness. Thanks!!!!!

    4. #844
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,720
      Country Flag: United States
      The Haltech ECU uses the same Tyco connectors as the Holley ECUs. TE Connectivity offer the correct crimpers. If the harness is laid out well in the engine bay, the easiest way to shorten the harness is at the ECU. I've taken the basic and club level wiring courses and they have been helpful.

      Crank and cam are metripack 150.
      Knock sensor is Metripack 150 GT
      O2 is a Deutsch connector DT
      Next one is Metripack 150 pull to seat
      MAP sensor I think is Molex...I'm not 100% on that

      Andrew
      Last edited by andrewb70; 08-17-2021 at 05:16 AM.
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #845
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Andrew. I will look this evening to see if I can find what I need from here.

    6. #846
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,720
      Country Flag: United States
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #847
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      464
      I have 90% of those connectors in stock if you cant source any on your own.
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    8. #848
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Jacksonville, Florida
      Posts
      618
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      MAP sensor I think is Molex...I'm not 100% on that
      Andrew

      It's got a Bosch PN on the sensor, looks like a BSK.
      Craig Scholl
      CJD Automotive, LLC
      Jacksonville, Florida
      904-400-1802
      www.cjdautomotive.com

      "I own a Mopar, I already know it won't be in stock, won't ship tomorrow, and won't fit without modification."

    9. #849
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for all the help guys. I was thinking last night that I have another harness that I had made for the car originally that used the factory ECU. I had that harness hooked up to this MAP sensor. I will just remove it from that harness and call it good. When I eventually use that harness for the next car I build I will find a new sensor that has the plug and replace it then. I think I have the rest of the details for what I need and hope to start taking the pins out tonight on the plugs that I need to replace. I will then be able to confirm that I am ordering the correct pins for the above mentioned connectors. You guys have been a great help! Thanks again.

    10. #850
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      24
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      Thanks for all the help guys. I was thinking last night that I have another harness that I had made for the car originally that used the factory ECU. I had that harness hooked up to this MAP sensor. I will just remove it from that harness and call it good. When I eventually use that harness for the next car I build I will find a new sensor that has the plug and replace it then. I think I have the rest of the details for what I need and hope to start taking the pins out tonight on the plugs that I need to replace. I will then be able to confirm that I am ordering the correct pins for the above mentioned connectors. You guys have been a great help! Thanks again.

      Darreld,

      I want to chime in here and say I agree with andrewb70 that it's much easier to shorten the harness at the ECU end. If I'm not mistaken, you've got 21 wires, 18 to sensors, 1 GND, 1 B+ Constant, & 1 B+ Switched. Almost all have the same pins. Plus, there's less chance of scratching the paint.
      Don't forget to allow for a "Drip-Loop" on the cabin side at the ECU end. Water has a nasty way of following looms into the cabin and shorting ECU's, and you can't guarantee the car will never get wet.

      GRC

    11. #851
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I hear what you guys are saying. I will have to redo about half the sensors on the engine side. The way the harness runs it snakes around on the top of the intake from drivers side to passanger and then back to drivers side up front. The sheathing on the wires would need to be shortened and then I could not put shrink wrap back on the ends of the sheathing for a clean look. I need to remove the connectors to make it clean. Doing at the ECU would be easier but I would not be happy with the result.

      Everything has been ordered including the crimper I need for the O2 sensors. Most of it will come in this weekend or next week. I have started removing the covering to the harness and deciding how I am going to make two branches that come out of the firewall. I was looking for a heat shrink T but can't seem to find one that is large enough. What do you guys use to make a T in a wiring harness? Maybe I am just overthinking it like most things and should just use shrink wrap at the base of both branches and then one larger piece of shrink wrap over the 2 separate branches. As Gray Race Cat was saying, water tend to creep its way down wires and I would like the engine side to be a sealed as possible.

    12. #852
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Since you asked for anyone's input, when I need to make a wiring T I normally use electrical tape on the wiring. A couple of loops around the main line crossing over on either side of the T, and it's nice and secure. I'll normally run loom over that with a notch cut in where the T-leg comes out, stick the T-side loom (which is almost always smaller) into that hole on the first groove, then run a few passes of electrical tape over that. If I want pretty looming, I'll use a loom T instead of the notch and groove, see the picture. Normally I'm just interested in functionality instead of appearance, but when I do my own project truck I'll be using the T-fittings. Whoever supplied the loom you are using probably has a solution for you.

      2021 Durango R/T
      2008 Colorado beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile

    13. #853
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      I hear what you guys are saying. I will have to redo about half the sensors on the engine side. The way the harness runs it snakes around on the top of the intake from drivers side to passanger and then back to drivers side up front. The sheathing on the wires would need to be shortened and then I could not put shrink wrap back on the ends of the sheathing for a clean look. I need to remove the connectors to make it clean. Doing at the ECU would be easier but I would not be happy with the result.

      Everything has been ordered including the crimper I need for the O2 sensors. Most of it will come in this weekend or next week. I have started removing the covering to the harness and deciding how I am going to make two branches that come out of the firewall. I was looking for a heat shrink T but can't seem to find one that is large enough. What do you guys use to make a T in a wiring harness? Maybe I am just overthinking it like most things and should just use shrink wrap at the base of both branches and then one larger piece of shrink wrap over the 2 separate branches. As Gray Race Cat was saying, water tend to creep its way down wires and I would like the engine side to be a sealed as possible.
      if you’re on Instagram, give hpa101 a follow, they have some very informative videos in their IGTV section about proper harness branching, heat shrink T’s and different coverings. They sell online courses, but their free stuff has plenty of good info to get you started. This car deserves better than convoluted tubing (with all due respect, vimes). OEM harnessing tape and adheasive heat shrink are readily available and can make a harness look way more professional.
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    14. #854
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I have spent some time in the past few days watching some of the HP Academy classes I signed up for a year or more ago. One was the harness class. It was really helpful. YOu are right Chris, the branching section was really good. I also started following them on Instagram. I should have most of the heat shrink, shrink wrap and Kapton tape I need later today. Tomorrow will be where I start shortening the harness and making it look better. I have some of the wires routed into the car that the harness originally placed in the engine bay. I need to find an IAT sensor that has traditional threads instead of NPT to make it easier to thread into my air box. That will take some searching I am afraid. I will ask my local guy, who suggested using one of those, what brand he suggests.

    15. #855
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I made some progress on the wiring this weekend. I completed the engine portion of the wiring and added the catch can. I am happy with how it came out. Thanks for the help guys.

      I now have to finish up with the interior portion of the wiring. I will work on the the next few evenings and with a little luck be able to start it up by this weekend.

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    16. #856
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Every time I see pictures of your build, Rod Stewart starts singing "Do you think I'm sexy" in my mind. That car is awesome and outstanding, and if my build comes out a tenth as well as yours has I'll be happy.
      2021 Durango R/T
      2008 Colorado beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile

    17. #857
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I finished up the wiring on the inside of the car this weekend. I do need to add some wires to the harness for some outputs. I need to put in pins to control the fan (need it inside the car and is harness has it in the engine bay), and two outputs for the spoiler control. I added a timing pointer since the engine did not come with one. I am ready for my tuner to come over to the house and plug into the Haltech and make sure everything looks good. Once he does that, we will fire it up. There is a pin hole leak on the lower radiator hose where the radiator outlet is welded on. A tough with a TIG and that should be fixed.

      As I think about items I still need to setup the Accusump which is partially done now and final filling is done once the engine is running. My list is getting pretty small now.

    18. #858
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      224
      You're going to manually control the engine fan from inside the car? If that's the case, why?

    19. #859
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      The Haltech ECU will be controlling the fan. I will add a pin to the harness on an unused output from the ECU to send the ground signal to the fan wiring. If I would have thought about it I could have used an existing unused output wire in the engine bay but I didn't know there wasn't going to be one on the inside. By sending the signal from inside the car it will also require less wires in the engine bay and make it a little cleaner.

      Over all I will have to add 3 outputs and one input pins to the harness. The outputs will be for fan and 2 for the spoiler control. The input is for the knob to adjust the sensitivity for the traction control. It will be mounted next to the ABS adjustment knob. I really should be able to dial in the system for my needs.

    20. #860
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      224
      Aaaaah, gotcha.

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