Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 41 of 42 FirstFirst ... 31 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 LastLast
    Results 801 to 820 of 831
    1. #801
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      I ordered one like the adapter in your link but it was 1/2' to 1/2" and it wouldn't clear so I have ordered a 1/2" male to 3/8" swivel and it should arrive in the by Monday. I hope it will clear. It will be close.



    2. #802
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,669
      Country Flag: United States
      Darreld, or anyone else for that matter...

      I want to use a different loom on my Holley EFI harness. I believe Holley uses the TechFlex F6 split loom, or something very similar. What I am looking for is maybe a tighter weave split loom that is softer, more like a canvas feel. I have looked through the TechFlex website many times, but it is hard to know which loom has the feel that I am looking for. Anyone have an opinions or options?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #803
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Darreld, or anyone else for that matter...

      I want to use a different loom on my Holley EFI harness. I believe Holley uses the TechFlex F6 split loom, or something very similar. What I am looking for is maybe a tighter weave split loom that is softer, more like a canvas feel. I have looked through the TechFlex website many times, but it is hard to know which loom has the feel that I am looking for. Anyone have an opinions or options?

      Andrew
      When I called them about what product to use the saleswoman offered to send me samples of whatever I wanted. They will send you about a foot of whatever size and style you are looking for.

    4. #804
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Posts
      174
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Darreld, or anyone else for that matter...

      I want to use a different loom on my Holley EFI harness. I believe Holley uses the TechFlex F6 split loom, or something very similar. What I am looking for is maybe a tighter weave split loom that is softer, more like a canvas feel. I have looked through the TechFlex website many times, but it is hard to know which loom has the feel that I am looking for. Anyone have an opinions or options?

      Andrew
      The Painless ClassicBraid may be close to what you're after. I've used it, and it has a more "clothy" feel to it. The Techflex F6 woven looks to be very similar.
      Nick
      '72 Monte Carlo
      Build Thread

    5. #805
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      I received my samples in from TechFlex. I ordered some Insultherm and Insultherm Tru-Fit. The product will go on my spark plug wires. I ended up going with the Tru-Fit. It was a little smoother looking and slightly easier to work with. I ordered the 0 gauge which should expand over my wires and have a little extra capacity. The sample I ordered was for 3/8" and was a little loose fitting. The plug wire diameter was .32" so slight smaller than 3/8". I believe they will help protect the plug wires up to 1,200 degrees. I ordered some more shrink wrap to seal up the ends of the wrap and make a clean look.
      https://www.techflex.com/high-temper...ltherm-tru-fit

      The last couple weeks have all been about wiring, wiring and more wiring. I have most of the basic systems in place now and am connecting the different systems together. There is a lot of CAN connections that I really don't understand so my tuner/chassis guy will help me with the final connections. The engine Harness for the Haltech will need to be shortened quite a bit in order to look tidy in the engine compartment. Some wires are about 2 feet too long.

      During part of the wiring I decided to move away from a Taylor battery disconnect switch in favor for a remote battery disconnect that will provide a little theft deterrent as well. I went with a Cartek piece that is pretty cool. A simple push of a button can disable the entire car but leave some circuits open like an alarm. It is not the most cost efficient piece of equipment but I was how it was working on a Lamborghini last week and was impress with it. So simple to install and effective. https://www.cartekmotorsport.com/battery-isolators/

      I hope to have all the wiring done in the next 2-3 weeks. I figure there is still another 40 hours to go there, maybe less if I stop coming up with items to add on. LOL!

      I will soon be waiting for the body guy to come over to my house. I will need him to fit the hood and install the hood hinges before I can put in the radiator for the last time. Once the hinges are on the hood can be removed until it is ready to go on for the final time. This car is like a lego kit. This has to be done before this and then on to the next component that must be installed. If one step is missed then you go back to the beginning and start over. Really slows down the final assembly but the final assembly will be super clean.

    6. #806
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      748
      Country Flag: United States
      Excellent, looking forward to seeing the outcome!

    7. #807
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      A small update on progress. Still wiring but it is getting close to the end. I have to wire about 4 switched, install the AC box and run hoses for that. Everything else is pretty much done except the engine harness (needs to be shortened), install the dash and tuning.

      I will have a delay with the engine harness and tuning though. My guy that is going to do that has to move his shop and will be busy until the end of June.

      I finished up on the plug wires today. The are Dragon Fire wires with Flextech heat shield. I chose the Dragon Fire wires because I needed 45 degree boots on the plugs and that are the only ones I could find. I hope they are good.

      In the picture you can also see the adapters for my temperature gauge. I think I will take it off and paint it all black. I hope that will make it disappear a little more.

      Name:  IMG_3985.jpg
Views: 961
Size:  313.9 KB
      Name:  IMG_3983.jpg
Views: 961
Size:  393.9 KB

    8. #808
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      A little more progress. Got the brakes bled today and did a little weighing if the car. Still missing the hood and most of the interior but she weighed in at 2922 lbs. I figure when she is fully done it should be around 3100.

      I am sure that is more than stock but there is a whole lot more going on than stock. Coming into the home stretch though. My tuner will be ready for the car by late June. I should have everything buttoned up before then. Most of my time lately has been spent wiring and making sure the wiring was clean. Lots of heat sharing and braiding going on. Kind of a pain in the butt but it will be worth it.Name:  35DF98D7-EB4C-42A2-BCB9-E01E9B3A5C8F.jpg
Views: 811
Size:  343.0 KB
      Name:  F8D560B3-E8EA-455E-A449-2732B268512B.jpg
Views: 807
Size:  318.4 KB

    9. #809
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      A little more progress and some setbacks. The window, wing and all other switches are wired. The Ramlift Pro is working great and I can now raise the front of the car abour 2" to help clear low driveways and speed bumps. I was ready to put the dash in but started to have a couple issues with the courtesy lights and headlights. Neither work now. The courtesy lights were on all the time and now wont come on at all. I have to look at that system. The headlights were working fine and now they don't. I hope it is a fact that the control box needs full power from the battery to work and it is a little drained from testing the electrical systems on the car.

      The modifications to the heater box ducting are done and now it can go in the car but I need to figure out the headlight and courtesy issues first. Much easier to do without the heater and dash in the car. Once that is done I will put in the dash and start programming the various computers on the car. The AIM track monitoring will be first, the setup on the Bosch ABS will be next and I will leave the Haltech ECU for the tuner to deal with. The transmission controller is already setup for my setup. I also need to wire in the Lokar sport shifter so it has the bump shift capabilities activated. I can do that tonight. It is a pretty easy job, just 3 wires spiced into a control box for the paddle shifter controller.

      I did find out that I have a small leak in my radiator where the lower radiator hose is welded on. It will be an easy fix and can be done on the car.I also was battling a brake fluid leak on the ABS controller. I had used a banjo bolt for the feel lines into the unit and could not get them to seal properly. I ended up fixing it by using an adapter fitting and some really short flex line. The flex line is probably a better option anyways due to the vibrations of the unit. The tuner won't be ready for the car for 2-4 weeks so I have some time to deal with these little things. I am really looking forward to seeing this thing run. Should be a lot of fun.

      I have an appointment setup for 7/14 to have the radar detector, parking sensors, alarm and stereo system setup by Musicar Northwest in Portland. Once that is done the car will be ready for Tracy Weaver over at The Recovery Room. I don't think it will be done by SEMA so I will likely take the car down to the Grand National Roadster Show early next year for its first event. Should be a blast!

    10. #810
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      222
      Great update! Sounds like things are falling into place without too much aggravation.

    11. #811
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      The check list is really small now. Still have to put in the dash but I am having a hard time figuring out a problem with one of the most basic systems, the courtesy lights won't turn off. I am thinking it may be the switch but I am not certain. The door switches are new and look to be fine. A buddy helped we wire that portion so I need to go through all of that system again to make sure it is right. I also had to order a new flasher for LED lights and a new relay from Moromoto for the headlights.

      The door handles needed a little work to fit better and now are back at the chrome shop and they should be able to work on them the beginning of next month. It is getting really close!

      The big new of today is my wife and I purchased some land. We were looking at buying a house with a nice sized shop earlier this year but the deal fell through. We will now build what we want. I hope to have a shop that is a minimum of 30x40 but as large as 40-50 depending on the budget. It is on 7 acres and is beautiful. It will be really nice when it is done in a year and a half! The county we live in is taking about 4-5 months for permit approval. Damn red tape!

    12. #812
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      406
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      The county we live in is taking about 4-5 months for permit approval. Damn red tape!
      You're lucky. Where I'm at (Bay Area, California), it's a minimum of one year on new construction building permits.
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    13. #813
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chunger View Post
      You're lucky. Where I'm at (Bay Area, California), it's a minimum of one year on new construction building permits.
      It is kind of crazy what the county requires. I just got out of a meeting with a 2nd builder and they are telling me 6-12 months for the permit. That is after we spend the next 2 months getting various reports from our own environmental experts on wetlands (600 feet of wetland area that is remotely close to our build site over the 7 acre lot), mitigation strategy of potential wetland impact, arborist to come review the potential impact of the protected White Oaks and a couple other environmental planning people I can't think of now. Stupid expensive crap that 15 years ago wouldn't have been needed. Throw in the fact that many of the county workers are working from home and that slows things way down.

      I bet we will be into this an easy $10-15k before we are even paying to design a house or applying for permits. This is just to get ready for all the stuff the county is going to require.

    14. #814
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      383
      Country Flag: United States
      As a reference for you, my shop is 20x40 and it is so friggin' tight for just one project. Wishing I'd have gone at least 30x40, to have room to spread out, for just one project. The only benefit to the shop's size is I have to be diligent about keeping it clean if I want to get anything done out there.
      2021 Durango R/T
      2008 Colorado beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile

    15. #815
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      21
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      I am having a hard time figuring out a problem with one of the most basic systems, the courtesy lights won't turn off.
      Are you referring to the lights on the rear pillars? If so, are the lenses on? The lenses are the switches at the assemly. The spring clips in the assembly provide the ground when a passenger pulls out the bottom of the lense on the lamp, turning it on. If the lenses are not on and in the closed position ie. pushed flat, the lights will stay on regardless of what position the door, or underdash, or headlight switches are in. If you don't have the lenses, place a piece of cardstock between the outer housing and the spring clip on each side of each lamp.

    16. #816
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      I am not using the original lights in the rear pillars. I am using an American Autowire courtesy light kit. It can't be more simple than what I am using. I need to disassemble the harness and look at all of it. I will start with the door jam switches and then move on from there. Thanks for the tip on the rear lights though.

    17. #817
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Does the dimmer switch turn them on and off like in GM cars? Maybe it's turned on? I know it sounds dumb, but after all the more complicated things you've sorted out, maybe just missing the obvious? It gets a lot of us. lol

    18. #818
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States
      I have power to the dimmer and the for each feed wire that comes out of it so the dimmer seems to be fine. I have power to the plug where it normally connects to the headlight as well. The harness for the projector bulb just doesnít seem to be working after that point. I can see power going into the relay but then there is nothing. I swapped out the ballasts from side to side like Morimoto suggested and nothing.

      When it was working I could hear the relay clicking but now there is nothing. If this isnít it then I will look at the ballasts.

      I figured out the courtesy lights last night. The repo door switches are not quite long enough to be pressed in when the door is closed. I will either have to shim them out or take the simple path and add a rubberized magnet to the door side of the switch. I may start with the magnet idea as it is less noticeable.

    19. #819
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      46,966
      Country Flag: United States
      as I mentioned early, I once had a special 1800. Always wanted an es and screwed the pooch when I had a great chance in '78 or '79. So I'm always attracted to 1800 builds. I spotted this one from Canada


      BMR SUSPENSION
      T.C. Davis




      813-986-9302 Phone
      813-986-8055 Fax
      [email protected]
      www.BMRSuspension.com
      Like us on Facebook!

    20. #820
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      612
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      There is quite a bit of work done to that ES. You can tell by all the welding scars around the wheel wells. A lot of the same mods my car has to the wheel wells.

      The ES is what drew me to my car. I originally wanted to build a Ramble American wagon (late 50's-62) but ran across the Volvo 1800ES and really liked it. I never knew they existed before that point. Or at least never noticed them. They are pretty cool cars.

      The headlights and dash are now in. Still need to bleed the brakes for the last time and it looks like I need to do more fabrication on my steering column mount. For some reason it isn't fitting correct now. Nothing a little cutoff wheel and welder can't fix though. The only other thing I need to do is trim the splash panels in the wheel wells to clear the wiring. The door handles are back form Sherm's Plating in Sacramento. The modification that we made really made them look better. The transition from the original handle to the new trim is much better now. Really could have most of that done in a day if needed but the tuner is still moving his shop and isn't ready for the car yet.
      Name:  IMG_4055.jpg
Views: 328
Size:  304.5 KB


      I was talking with Tracy over at The Recovery Room Hot Rod Interiors and he won't be ready for the car until September. Plenty of time to work out the bugs and enjoy the car a little while before I have to ship it off to Nebraska.

    Page 41 of 42 FirstFirst ... 31 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 LastLast