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    Page 40 of 40 FirstFirst ... 30 35 36 37 38 39 40
    Results 781 to 796 of 796
    1. #781
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Moving from Burbs of Detroit to my native homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Please post if you take it to any local or regional shows. I live outside Leavenworth, my sister lives in Camas. I'd like to see the car in the flesh.... er. steel
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    2. #782
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      Kennewick, WA
      Posts
      254
      Country Flag: United States
      [QUOTE=Twentyover;1353284]Please post if you take it to any local or regional shows. I live outside Leavenworth, my sister lives
      Quote Originally Posted by Twentyover View Post
      Please post if you take it to any local or regional shows. I live outside Leavenworth, my sister lives in Camas. I'd like to see the car in the flesh.... er. steel
      Yes, please do. I'm in the Tri Cities and it's not too far to go and always up for a road trip.


    3. #783
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Posts
      45,076
      Country Flag: United States
      I google where you live as I need to come to WA to see my son later in the year ( Covid ?) but he is long way away from you

      BMR SUSPENSION
      T.C. Davis




      813-986-9302 Phone
      813-986-8055 Fax
      [email protected]
      www.BMRSuspension.com
      Like us on Facebook!

    4. #784
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      587
      Country Flag: United States
      I live down in southern Washington, right outside of Portland, OR. If anyone wants to swing by my place when you are in the area PM me. I likely won't have the car in a show until this fall. I hope to find a spot and be done by SEMA. Fingers crossed that it will be done and there will be a SEMA this year. If that does not happen I may take it down to the GNRS next year.

    5. #785
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      587
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a question for you guys. I am plumbing the car now and have about 1/2 the brake system done but am waiting on some fittings there. I have also started on the fuel system. I have the tank plumbed and the hose to the regulator but am now at a crossroad with the main fuel line to the engine. My initial layout took the fuel line up the rockers and then into the engine compartment via the wheel well. With all the suspension modifications it would be very difficult to do the same path now. I am thinking about going up the transmission tunnel. There is not a lot of extra space there and the fuel line would be pretty close to the transmission but far away from the exhaust. The easier path is to go this way.

      Should I go that direction or just do the hard way and go in through the fender? I was planning on going with 8 AN feed lines but feel that may be overkill for may maybe 600 hp. If I dropped it down to 6AN it would make routing easier. Is it worth 8AN for my application? Last question is what line to use. I have both aluminum or soft lines for both sizes so that won't be a problem to make the changes now. Will heat soak be worse with aluminum or should I use the PTFE hose since it is easier to work with but is slightly larger in diameter?

      Sorry for all the questions but I only want to do this one time.

    6. #786
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Los Angeles, CA
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      Is there a thread on here about garage builds? That may be something cool to see. A general thread where everyone posts ideas. EDIT I just noticed a section for garage builds. I will have to look through it for lighting ideas and heating/AC.
      If not on Pro-Touring then how about this https://www.garagejournal.com/

      Go to "The Forum" it has "Flooring", "Heating and A/C", "Lighting & Electrical", etc. Plus a Gallery of amazing Garages.

    7. #787
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      Chicago suburbia
      Posts
      218
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by FLYNAVY53 View Post
      You should be proud, thats a very sharp car. And more importantly, I think it achieved your goal of a Volvo/Ferrari hybrid. Definitely in the top two builds on this forum along with the Bullit Charger build.
      Couldn't agree more. These two have been top notch. Congrats, you are almost there, Darreld!
      '69 Charger TT Viper project - SOLD
      '65 Mustang Shelby clone project "almost done"

    8. #788
      Join Date
      Mar 2019
      Location
      Irvine, CA
      Posts
      7
      You should have no problem pushing 700+hp with a 6AN fitting.

      Great job on the build! You're so close to finished. I'm just finishing up building a 70 Boss 302 and then I can finally get back to finishing my P1800. Not a lot of progress in 4 yrs now. Can't wait to order my glass from Fessler and get it installed. I'll have to startup my build thread again when I do. Thanks for all of the ideas 😊

    9. #789
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      587
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by YourAverageJoe View Post
      You should have no problem pushing 700+hp with a 6AN fitting.

      Great job on the build! You're so close to finished. I'm just finishing up building a 70 Boss 302 and then I can finally get back to finishing my P1800. Not a lot of progress in 4 yrs now. Can't wait to order my glass from Fessler and get it installed. I'll have to startup my build thread again when I do. Thanks for all of the ideas ��
      Thanks for the confirmation on the 6AN. I am going down that path now. You will have to keep the 1800 thread updated when you start up again.

      I have been making some progress on the plumbing but I seem to be waiting on fittings on just about every part before I can finish it. I did some double checking on my brake system and it appears that my master cylinder was a little too big and my piston area of my calipers was not large enough. I have a new Wilwood master cylinder and calipers on the way. The Safecraft fire suppression system is about 90% complete, II Much fuel vent is just waiting on a fitting and I am in the process of laying out the Ramlift Pro hydraulic lift system for the front end. Waiting on some bulkhead fittings for that as well.

      Once the plumbing is done I will start taking on the task of wiring. I did find out that Haltech made some recent updates to their system that will allow me to use the wheel speed sensors from the Bosch ABS to communicate to the Haltech via CAN bus as well as to the AIM track monitoring system. Should make wiring easier. I also picked up a Position Rotary Trim module know to make the traction control adjustable. It can go from very restrictive (kids driving the car) to no traction control at all from twisting a 12 position knob. The same can be done with the ABS system. Should be very adjustable and tunable system when it is done.

    10. #790
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      587
      Country Flag: United States
      Progress is slow lately. Seems like I have been waiting for fittings or hoses more than working on the car. I almost have the plumbing done and have started working on the wiring. Stilll need to get my new Wilwood master cylinder and larger rear calipers as well as some hose to finish plumbing the Ram Lift Pro hydraulic lift system.

      The RLP setup is pretty cool. With a push of a button I will be able to lift the nose of the car up about 2Ē to clear driveways or speed bumps. The pump is mounted in the trunk since there is no space in the front of the car.

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      I also installed the Safecraft fire suppression system.

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      The IIMuch fuel vent and bulkhead connectors are installed.

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      And now I am beginning the process of installing the American Autowire harness.

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      Hopefully the wiring will be done in the next couple weeks so I can install the drivetrain. That will be exciting! Canít wait for that one.

    11. #791
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      587
      Country Flag: United States
      I am pretty much done with the basic car wiring. The engine, transmission and exhaust are back on. Starting to look like a car again.

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    12. #792
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      734
      Country Flag: United States
      Simply incredible!

    13. #793
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      206
      Stunning workmanship (which involves a lot of planning and a consistent build plan). Bravo!

    14. #794
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      587
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys. I am now running into a few snags that are slowing me down. For instance, when the chassis shop installed the new front clip on the car they mounted the engine about .75" lower in the car. May not seem like much but is making me modify a few things. My original mechanical water temp gauge that is located on the rear of the passenger head will not clear the body. I will have to use an adapter which is driving me nuts. It will look half assed and will bug me every time I see it. It has to be that way or I remove the engine, do surgery to the firewall and repaint the engine bay. That isn't going to happen so I will simply live with it. I hope I can make it as clean as I can and try to hide it. In addition to that my original plug wires with a straight boot will not fit either. I have some 45 degree wires on the way that I will cut and assemble to fit.

      My body guy did not double check some fitment items either. My air box interferes with my valve covers. I will have to have the body show trim just a little bit to clear. All little things but they time really adds up when I run into a problem. Other than a few small items I am making progress. I am having a fried come over tomorrow to assist me with some of these issues and more wiring. I really want to get this car to the tuner next month so that I can send it off for the interior shortly after. There are just so many details that need to be done.

      I am going to order my new driveline from Inland Empire Driveline Service. I just have to confirm one measurement before I pull the trigger. Rocky over there has been really helpful to make sure I get it right the first time.

    15. #795
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      294
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      My original mechanical water temp gauge that is located on the rear of the passenger head will not clear the body.
      How about converting to an electric driven gauge? I've never used this guy before, but the stuff on his website looks pretty good and he claims to be able to retrofit old gauges to look the same but use modern electronic guts. This would let you use the ECM to drive the stock looking gauges, and would let you not have to run separate lines for the ECM and the gauges.

    16. #796
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      734
      Country Flag: United States
      IDEA: Run the wires through 'Tech Flex'. You can choose what color you want to use.
      Maybe a touch of red on the ends with adhesive heat shrink for added "flair".



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