Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 34 of 44 FirstFirst ... 24 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 ... LastLast
    Results 661 to 680 of 869
    1. #661
      Join Date
      Apr 2014
      Posts
      778
      Country Flag: United States
      Very cool, back glass looks great! The whole build is awesome!
      Pat



    2. #662
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Pat.

    3. #663
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      224
      Is the decision to install the glass before paint a matter of personal preference, or is there a strategy involved? Looks great, by the way!

    4. #664
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Peanut1959 View Post
      Is the decision to install the glass before paint a matter of personal preference, or is there a strategy involved? Looks great, by the way!
      It is not installed. We are just test fitting and making any modifications for the fit to be as close to perfect as I want. We have set dabs of the window adhesive at different spots on the window channel and let it dry. It was then cut down with a razor blade to the necessary height so that it would be as flush as we could make it. Those “adhesive bumpers” will stay there through the paint process so that the window will be in the exact same spot for final install.

    5. #665
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      224
      Oooooh, I see! Thanks for explaining the process.
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      It is not installed. We are just test fitting and making any modifications for the fit to be as close to perfect as I want. We have set dabs of the window adhesive at different spots on the window channel and let it dry. It was then cut down with a razor blade to the necessary height so that it would be as flush as we could make it. Those “adhesive bumpers” will stay there through the paint process so that the window will be in the exact same spot for final install.

    6. #666
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Working on all the details right now. Final primer is on and block sanding is progressing. Maybe have some paint on the engine compartment next week. The engine compartment has turned out to be the most difficult area to prep. With all the tubes and making it ready for body color is taking a lot longer than the body man thought and what I am comfortable paying for. At least it will be done right and will look nice.

      I have made a couple trips to the anodizer and powder coater for small parts. Working with the radar detector and laser jammer setup guy to make sure everything is set and ready for an easy install once the car is assembled. I really don't want to have to modify parts once everything is painted. A small modification to the lower valance so that the Escort Max-Ci can be placed at the right angle. Some misc chrome parts arrived from Sweden but I need to find a way to make the striker plates in the door look better. The original parts are ugly even when new. Looking at some options to make the pot metal more presentable. I am thinking about buying one of those walnut polishers from Harbor freight and see if that will do the job.

      I have been trying to find some pan head stainless black bolts (5/16") for mounting some aluminum panels under the car. It will go from the front valance back to the sway bar mounting area. It will help with aero as well as channel air through the radiator. Anyone have a source for such a bolt? I want it to be low profile and to almost disappear. I could only find one place but would sell me 250 bolts. I only need about 10 with washers. I am hesitant to use black anodized steel for fear of rust.

    7. #667
      Join Date
      Jul 2020
      Location
      Mesa AZ
      Posts
      1
      Country Flag: United States

      Nice Design and Mod

      I'm loving the project. I'm just starting mine. 1970 1800E. Shaving off almost everything. Going sleek. Modern. Inside and out.

      One Question: Do you still have the Z4M Coupe?
      Name:  D473EA8A-9E19-48A7-8AC5-3679A54DCF9D.jpeg
Views: 1013
Size:  127.1 KB

    8. #668
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      I wish that was my car. This picture was taken just prior to the chassis shop installing the roll bar. That car was another customers at the shop.

      A little update on the car. After countless more hours sanding, this time 600 grit wet sanding, the car should be getting some paint next week. In the engine compartment and wheel wells for now but I will take it. There was so much work to do in the engine compartment to make it look just right.

      There was also some work to do on the doors. I have never seen door jams as nice as mine! I guess when there is a chance the car will be in a paint booth at the 2021 SEMA show the body guy will do an extra nice job. The body work is costing me more but having the paint sponsored by BASF makes it a wash but the end result will be stunning. I can’t wait!

    9. #669
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Gorgeous car. I do have a few thoughts, some too late, some perhaps just in time. I also plan to steal a few ideas from you for my own project such as the dancing moose. Not the dancing moose itself, of course, but what you did with the dancing moose.

      On the exterior mirrors - I think I'd do your choice 2, the Camaro mirrors, or something similar and only for one simple reason - the ability to adjust them remotely from the driver's seat. The other ones require reaching out of the car, or perhaps getting in and out of the car to get them set right.

      On the radar detector - I too say don't bother with the Escort. I run one of the dash-mount Escort Max 360 detectors. It falses more than it should, and the OLED display blows. If you decide to use it anyway, make sure the display is hidden from the sun, and not at an angle where there is any light that might overpower it. To give you an idea of how hard it is to read, it's even hard to read at night. The detector I plan to use on my own project is a Radenso, and as soon as they come out with their new Theia system I plan to move my Escort to my work beater and put a Theia in my wife's Tahoe. After they get the dash mounted ones going they will be doing a Theia remote mount that will go in my project. You'd really do better to hang an old detector off the glass for now, then install the Radenso when it comes out. Plus, cops in your area are using the new MCRD/MCRT radar systems which the Escort can't even see. Very interesting reading on those, and Radenso can see these systems. The really nice thing about the Theia system is it doesn't just pick up radar signals, it reads the encoding so it's supposed to be able to tell the difference between a cop and a Hyundai, so false alarms should be rare to never. There's a lot of good information at this forum which is dedicated to radar detectors.

      This suggestion may or may not be too late since you may have to do metalwork to get the glass to fit right anyway - have you considered recessing the wiper blades? It would give it a more modern look than having the wipers exposed for the world to see, like it was 1960 or something.

      The electronic emergency brake - I realize that was to solve a packaging problem, but... I used to have a Lincoln LS with the electric emergency brake, did not care for it. It was fine for parking, but as it was either on or off I'd not want to rely on it in an emergency. There was no simple way to modulate how much braking power you could apply, which a hand brake easily does. Since yours is aftermarket it may, but my experience with them is, had one and don't like them.

      And for what I would have done different but it's now too late to matter - I think, after seeing just how tight that engine bay is, that I would have clamshelled the hood like a C4 Corvette where the hood is also half the fender behind the tire and all the fender in front. That engine bay looks like you're going to have to disassemble half the front just to change spark plugs. As much cash as you've dumped into the car already this would have been a cheap addition at the beginning, and would have allowed greater flexibility with the engine bay. It would also have allowed you to be more free with what you did with the hood, and made that area far more rigid.

      Overall I love the car, and I'm glad to have seen what it takes to put an LS into that small engine bay. I always wanted to do an 1800, but now I'm glad I decided to do a larger vehicle. I'm a large man and as tight as all that is, I don't think I could even fit in the car especially after the firewall work done to move the engine back. My knees would be up by my ears in there. And then the tightness of the engine bay, maintenance is going to be a real pain.

    10. #670
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the info on the radar detectors. My decision was really down to what the best shop in the area as well as what some friends are running. I hope it will work for my need but if not I will cross that bridge again. The escort detector I am running is mounted inside the lower valance. I am not sure if there is a difference in how it functions as opposed to a windshield mounted radar.

      That is a good idea about the wipers but that would cost way too much for me to tackle. I wonder if anyone has tried to do that to a classic?

      The engine bay is tight as you have pointed out. I limited my cutting of the firewall as much as I can. The footwell is slightly narrower but is the same depth as the original. It should be just as comfortable to drive as an original. The transmission tunnel is the biggest mod inside. Well that and the driveshaft tunnel and mini tubs. There is only 1 spark plug that will be a pain. The back passenger plug is tight but accessible.

      The biggest obstacle in the engine compartment is the wheel wells. If the frame rails were 2-3” wider it would make a big difference. As it is now having a larger hood wouldn’t really do anything to make it more serviceable. Perhaps it would give me more room for items like washer fluid tanks or the ABS module. Those items are kind of a pain to deal with in my engine compartment. I am just plain it if real estate. I had to make recessed panels on the kick panels to store all the electronics.

      I really didn’t want to go with the electronic e-brake but space dictated me to go that way. The original handle is between the seat and the door bars. Fit in there perfectly, until I had to deal with chassis strengthening, dual exhaust and a low stance. There just wasn’t space for the hardware under the car. You are right that they suck in an emergency and are really there for parking/security. I suppose I could have figured out a way to use a hydraulic e-brake. That would have been pretty cool as well as functional.

      The car has had so much changed it really is so different than a stock 1800. Some of the changes are exactly as I wanted them while some of the smaller items are a compromise. The platform is really small to do what I wanted to do to it and there just isn’t space. If I eliminated the rear seat it would satisfy many space issues I have but I don’t want to do that.

      At this point I am really not going to make any other changes unless I have to. The only lingering item I keep thinking about now is the manual brakes. I don’t have space for a vacuum booster or hydroboost. If I don’t like the feel of the manual brakes I will look into an electronic assisted setup. I will figure that out once I start driving the car.

    11. #671
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      I was thinking C4 Vette clamshell hood because when the hood's up, everything from the freeze plugs on up is right there and exposed because not only is the hood out of the way, the fenderwells are up and out of the way as they're built into the hood. But, that's something for the next P1800 builder who drools over your build to think about.

      On the brakes, this might solve the problem if you have trunk space.
      https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/booste...vacuum-booster

      I don't know if it's doable or not, but an access port in the right front wheelwell might make getting that last plug easier. Now would be the time to put it in, before paint. Your body shop could probably knock one together in about an hour, since it would just require a hole large enough to get the wrench in, then either a rubber plug or a metal plate and a couple of screws to hold it in place.

      Once again, beautiful build, and even though I'll never build one I'll be watching with great interest. The P1800 is one of the best looking cars to come out of the 1960s, and that includes a lot of Detroit iron.

    12. #672
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the link to the remote booster! I had no idea such a product even existed. That will be on the top of my list if I need a booster know.

      Being able to pull up the wheel wells would be handy. It would also require more chassis stiffening as well. The fenders and all of the car provide the structural strength. It would take some engineering to get that done. I will leave that for the next guy with deeper pockets an me.

    13. #673
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Vimes, thanks for the post to the remote brake booster, I also had no idea such a thing existed. I wish the website wasn't so vague.
      I assume there must be some sort of hydraulic actuator up front that pushed the master cylinder at the rear of the car?
      I've been trying to find a way to clean up the engine bay in my truck, and don't have the room for an in cab brake booster setup.

      Have you used these before?

      I had a conversation with one of the guys from Escort regarding how much it falses and how bad the filtering was, and he responded with
      "Because it doesn't have any filtering." Every other system in (or above) that price range has some sort of filtering, so it seemed like
      it just wasn't an up to date product. Rasdenso's website also has a lot of info explaining how things work...they might also have a YouTube channel
      (pretty sure that's where they link their videos on their website from)

      Jay

    14. #674
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      Thanks for the link to the remote booster! I had no idea such a product even existed. That will be on the top of my list if I need a booster know.

      Being able to pull up the wheel wells would be handy. It would also require more chassis stiffening as well. The fenders and all of the car provide the structural strength. It would take some engineering to get that done. I will leave that for the next guy with deeper pockets an me.
      Heh heh, yeah, deeper pockets. From what you've done before your pockets are plenty deep, and the chassis stiffening has already been provided by the roll cage you installed. But yeah, I wasn't thinking you should tear it all apart again. I just figure someone else is going to do one of these cars at some point and is going to read your entire post.

      Quote Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
      Vimes, thanks for the post to the remote brake booster, I also had no idea such a thing existed. I wish the website wasn't so vague.
      I assume there must be some sort of hydraulic actuator up front that pushed the master cylinder at the rear of the car?
      I've been trying to find a way to clean up the engine bay in my truck, and don't have the room for an in cab brake booster setup.

      Have you used these before?

      I had a conversation with one of the guys from Escort regarding how much it falses and how bad the filtering was, and he responded with
      "Because it doesn't have any filtering." Every other system in (or above) that price range has some sort of filtering, so it seemed like
      it just wasn't an up to date product. Rasdenso's website also has a lot of info explaining how things work...they might also have a YouTube channel
      (pretty sure that's where they link their videos on their website from)

      Jay
      On the remote braking, no. I've never used one. I also found that right before bedtime, but was curious about them anyway because my project is a pickup truck which I want to weight balance better. Anything I can move to the rear I plan to. After reading up on them, I won't be using one because the benefit doesn't outweigh the drawbacks for me, and I won't have an underhood space problem. If I did have a hood space problem though, I probably would. They have been in use for about 100 years. Heavy machinery uses them, as does BMW, Jaguar and (surprise surprise) Volvo. The way they work, you use a manual hydraulic brake setup to drive the booster so there is still a master cylinder on the firewall. It's just a manual master though. That plumbs to the remote booster, and the hydraulics from the firewall master drives the remote. The remote uses engine vacuum to boost braking to the wheels. From my reading, it works very well, but is a pain to work on because you have to bleed from the firewall to the remote and it requires the two person bleeder method. You'd also be bleeding two separate lines, front and rear, to keep the two circuit braking (and I wouldn't use it if it didn't have the two circuit path.) BMW and Jaguar wouldn't use them if they didn't work. Good news is, as light as the Volvo is and with the oversize brakes, it sounds like you won't have a problem according to folks that bypassed their remote systems. The worst you should see is more effort at a stop sign while stopped, which can be minimized by shifting to neutral if you have to stop more than a few seconds.

      On the detectors, I am a former Bel fan, and moved to Escort when they bought Bel out. But, I think Escort has become complacent now that they own just about every brand of detector out there. Radenso is going to catch them completely offguard with their new AI radar system. I'm certainly not looking forward to the 4 grand I'm going to be dropping on their remote Theia with an added laser shifting system, but as it means I will be a ghost on the highway (not really, since a detector is not a cloaking device, just eyes that see wavelengths we can't) as far as the police can tell I'll spend it. That new MCRD/MCRT system that's made it to Texas (and I'm in Oklahoma) was the main selling point for me. It's currently in use in Virginia, Washington D.C., Texas, New York, and Illinois, so I may see it soon. It's also used in Canada, and I keep thinking Vancouver Canada instead of Washington.

      https://radenso.com/blogs/radar-univ...-multaradar-cd

      EDIT - On the brakes, found this neat post on another forum.
      https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...e-this.941171/
      About 3/4 of the way down on page one, someone came up with a clever idea for brakes. It uses two very thin hydraulic cylinders to actuate a remote booster, and the really nice thing is, there's no single point of failure on the hydraulic path. From his description, the hydraulic path is 100 percent separate for front and rear brakes. The only single point of failure is the pedal itself, up to the point where the two cylinders connect to the pedal. It's also very, very small in the amount of space it would take up. Something like this could be rigged up to the underhood roll cage on that Volvo. And if you think about it, if you were in an accident bad enough to affect these braking cylinders mounted to the roll cage, braking is already no longer a concern.

    15. #675
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      We became a Radenso dealer a couple years ago. I've been pretty impressed with their products. Before that I worked at a shop that did Escort for a long time, but we switched to K40 (which I prefer to Escort, but I think I like Radenso a little better.) Escort definitely became complacent.

      Jay

    16. #676
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      I was looking at that remote booster assembly and that thing is huge! It is about 2' long and 9" square. There is no way I have room for it in my car. It looks like if I have problems with pedal effort it will end up being electric boost for me. Thanks for the info on it Vimes. It is a pretty cool setup if you have the space for it.

    17. #677
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      426
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68EFIvert View Post
      I was looking at that remote booster assembly and that thing is huge! It is about 2' long and 9" square. There is no way I have room for it in my car. It looks like if I have problems with pedal effort it will end up being electric boost for me. Thanks for the info on it Vimes. It is a pretty cool setup if you have the space for it.
      No worries. This one is 9 ½”L x 7 ½”W x 8”H. And remember, a remote booster doesn't have to go in the trunk, it only has to go in the car. Anywhere it will fit will do.

    18. #678
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      632
      Country Flag: United States
      There is the slightest bit of paint on the car. Part of the engine compartment is painted with base coat and the rear wheel wells as well. The engine compartment had to be painted in two parts because of how intricate it is with all the bars and the fact you have to be inside the compartment to paint it.

      The engine compartment will have a matte clear to add contrast to the rest of the car. The leather was getting color matched earlier in the week. A couple more weeks and this thing should be fully painted!

      Name:  IMG_3464.jpg
Views: 704
Size:  294.9 KB
      Name:  IMG_3465.jpg
Views: 712
Size:  229.6 KB

    19. #679
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      224
      Looking good!Name:  90e8917925d2d3033386f9764effdd87fc79bdc0443154e1d22c77983619dd85.0.jpeg
Views: 712
Size:  31.9 KB

    20. #680
      Join Date
      Feb 2014
      Posts
      757
      Country Flag: United States
      Sexy!

    Page 34 of 44 FirstFirst ... 24 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 ... LastLast