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    Page 33 of 46 FirstFirst ... 23 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 43 ... LastLast
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    1. #641
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      The good news is that the car is making progress but the bad news is it won’t be done this year. At least not before SEMA. Maybe 2021?

      We are done with the hard part of the sanding but still have high build primer and a few more rounds of sanding. It is looking good.




      https://youtu.be/MQ4T-6HoNf8

      I shipped off all the chrome on Friday. 3 big boxes are on the way to Sherm’s Plating down in Sacramento. That will take 6-8 weeks to get done.

      I started to lay out some of the wiring in the trunk. I will have the battery back there and want to have some safety provisions. I fabricated 2 brackets that mount to my battery holder. One will hold the master power disconnect. The outlet from that will go to the starter solenoid and another will feed into a 250 amp circuit breaker for the alternator. I wanted to eliminate constant power that could cause a wire if shorted. Anyone have any feedback on this idea?
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    2. #642
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      I didn't expect SEMA was going to happen this year anyway. Hope things change. Can't wait to see it once it's painted and everything.

      Jay

    3. #643
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,975
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JayinMI View Post
      I didn't expect SEMA was going to happen this year anyway. Hope things change. Can't wait to see it once it's painted and everything.

      Jay
      I hope you're wrong about SEMA, but I too fear the worst.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    4. #644
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      240
      At first, I thought this was some kind of smilie face!Name:  Screenshot_20200419-005919_YouTube.jpeg
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    5. #645
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      going back to your battery setup, I have planned to run a very similar setup to you but my circuit breaker to the alternator is considerably smaller, I think 80 amps off the top of my head. I plan to run an 8 gauge charge wire from battery -> circuit breaker -> power terminal under dash -> 150 amp alternator. I understand my 80 amp is relatively small however was under the assumption that the alternator never sends it's full charging power back to the battery. I researched my setup probably 18 months ago now and cannot cite where I learnt the majority of this, but was somewhat confident in it, and also figured it was not costly in upgrading the circuit breaker if it indeed turns out to be undersize and tripping frequently. So out of curiosity I was wondering why you went with 250amps?

    6. #646
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States

      1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

      Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
      going back to your battery setup, I have planned to run a very similar setup to you but my circuit breaker to the alternator is considerably smaller, I think 80 amps off the top of my head. I plan to run an 8 gauge charge wire from battery -> circuit breaker -> power terminal under dash -> 150 amp alternator. I understand my 80 amp is relatively small however was under the assumption that the alternator never sends it's full charging power back to the battery. I researched my setup probably 18 months ago now and cannot cite where I learnt the majority of this, but was somewhat confident in it, and also figured it was not costly in upgrading the circuit breaker if it indeed turns out to be undersize and tripping frequently. So out of curiosity I was wondering why you went with 250amps?
      Actually did my research about 4 years ago and forgot most of my thoughts behind the plan. I think My thought was the 250 circuit would stop any catastrophic issues but not have me to reset it for normal circumstances. We was planning on some sort of distribution block under the hood for front end accessories there as well as charging. This may be overkill especially since I was going to run 0 gauge wire. I do have a bunch of 6 gauge that I will likely just use that.

      Is there a problem running a higher amp breaker? Maybe I could drop it down to 150 while dropping down to the 6 gauge wire.

      It will be interesting to see if there is a SEMA show this year. Suppose we will find out as the summer goes by. Pretty crazy times right now.

    7. #647
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't know to be honest. I doubt it. 80 amps probably suits my smaller charge wire and 250 probably suits your 0 gauge. I'm sure someone will chime in who can run the maths.

    8. #648
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Southern California / Maryland
      Posts
      488
      Country Flag: United States
      Car is looking great- attention to detail is amazing!

      However... I spy with my little eye... a 68-69 Charger keeping yours company...
      1966 Chevrolet Chevelle 300 Deluxe 350 / 350 auto

      1968 Dodge Charger SRT8 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed

      1964 Dodge Polara 8-71 Blown 440 / 4-speed

      1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 3.4L / 5-speed

      2013 Dodge Challenger R/T 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed

    9. #649
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      There are some pretty cool cars in the shop. The charger, older Toyota Land Cruiser, 60’s convertible Lincoln, C2 Corvette, a couple 54-56 Ford trucks, a 20’s Buick and an early 20’s Packard. Pretty cool stuff. I will takes some pictures the next time I am in there and post them up on here.

    10. #650
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      It amazes me how people will put $100k into a car, and they shortcut the wiring. Wiring isn't very expensive, I always err on the side of caution and go as big as a I can afford so I'm future proofed for upgrades down the road. Because you WILL want to upgrade something in the future. 6ga is only good to like 80A anyway. Just run the 1/0 or 0 ga.

      Jay

    11. #651
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      we're only talking about charging wires, not the battery-to-starter cable.

      I'm running a modified version of madelectricals kit which is very popular and well tested with 8ga charge wires.
      http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

    12. #652
      Join Date
      Dec 2019
      Posts
      2
      Country Flag: Canada
      Darreld,
      I would run the Master battery Disconnect on the outside of the car for safety. I mounted mine behind the rear License plate, with a fold down spring loaded holder. When I race, I have a magnetic sign pointing to the plate to tell officials that it is there. I think this is needed outside when doing any kind of racing, but I could be wrong.

    13. #653
      Join Date
      Jan 2014
      Location
      Austin, TX
      Posts
      636
      Country Flag: United States
      Ive found this helpful over the years for determining wire size based on load and distance:

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      1972 C20 Suburban
      1964 Corvette Coupe

    14. #654
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the chart! That should be helpful.

    15. #655
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      240
      Maybe, next time, you can build something this cool...! Name:  FB_IMG_1588557733384.jpeg
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    16. #656
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      LOL! Or how about the Corvette 1800.
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    17. #657
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Is that an 1800 with Vette parts or a body kit on a Vette?

      Jay

    18. #658
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      It is a body kit on a Corvette. Reminds me of the kits where they try to make a vette look like a C1.

    19. #659
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      240
      Just, no!

    20. #660
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      Camas, WA
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: United States
      The rear Fesler flush mount glass is really starting to look good. A little pressure on the passenger top corner when we glue it down. A little work on the front window, some smoothing to get the interior ready for paint and the final firmer coat and we will be ready for color. It is taking forever but is getting there.

      I spoke with the side glass guy and he is cutting the quarter and door glass now.

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