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    Page 23 of 37 FirstFirst ... 13 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 33 ... LastLast
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    1. #441
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      So the switch is just a ground once temp is reached that fires that relay to start the fans. IIRC I added a lower temp switch to get the fans in earlier in the head and ended up with the extra switch in the Tstat housing and didnt have the right sized plug on hand to remove said extra switch. I probably just linked them together so one would backup to the other in case the lower temp one failed to switch for some reason.

      It all worked fine, lower temp switch in the head would turn the fans on low and one of these in the T stat would turn them on high if needed.



      I'll be much more diligent and careful with the EFI wiring, hence taking all this stuff back out.
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car


    2. #442
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Central NY
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Well at least you figured it out.

    3. #443
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Starting to lay out the new parts, trying to decide wire routing options.



      Not TOO MANY wires to deal with... lol...

      And just because it's beautiful

      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    4. #444
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Lance,

      Read the instructions three times. I'm not joking.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #445
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Lance,

      Read the instructions three times. I'm not joking.

      Andrew

      I've been thru them twice already...using them as a guide to help decide where to route everything.

      I've even changed up my parts plans just a bit to help my chances or eliminating troubles beforehand.

      So here is my current list of parts and layout plan Andrew, if you see anything I should address I'd appreciate your input.

      Holley #8366 Distributor (like small cap HEI) with mellonized gear with AC Delco control module GM part #19179578
      https://www.holley.com/products/igni...let/parts/8366

      Holley #8266 GM DUAL CONNECTOR COIL
      https://www.holley.com/products/igni...eet/parts/8226

      There is room to mount the coil on the firewall toward the driver side from distributor.

      Taylor Thundervolt 8.2 spark plug wires (on car already, plan on adding dielectric grease inside boots on each end)
      http://www.taylorvertex.com/product-...=457762&sID=52

      AC Delco R44LTS spark plugs
      https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-R44LT.../dp/B000C9MZN4

      (2) Quick Car Racing Products panel mount junction studs like this

      I'll connect the side post mounts on my optima battery to these mounted on the fender and hook all of the dirty electric leads to them. The top posts of the battery are where only the ECU + and - leads will attach.

      I'll run the power to the fuel pump thru a relay switched by the ECU.

      I'll use the two outputs from the ECU to switch on the relays that power my low and high speed electric fans.

      And this USB cable to connect my laptop to the ECU.
      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

      My plan is to put the ECU in the pass side kick panel holder where the stock ECU used to live, with a little bit of cutting and tweaking it should fit nicely in there.





      There is a large hole with a nice grommet leading from that area to above the pass side inner fender.

      I haven't decided where to put the CTS yet, it would be more accurate I think if in head but lead would have to run parallel right next to spark plug wires so leaning toward finding a spot on intake manifold for it.

      We are welding a new bung in the pass side header collector for the O2 but since these are shorty headers it will only be about 2" from where the 4 merge into 1 and 2" from the new V Band flange we are welding to the headers to connect to the down pipes. I have an O2 bung after the flange in the down pipe on the driver side already we can switch to if it needs to be a bit further downstream from the merge. I'd rather have it in the pass side header collector though.

      That should be it electrical wise. Hardest part about placing the harness looks to be trying to find a place for the 12" of main harness between ECU and the Relay, fuse and can bus connectors. They should be inside the firewall but that area is very tight on space already. Hopefully I can open the sheath up and move those things close to the ECU which will also let me have a bit more harness out in the engine bay which I think I'll need.

      For fuel plumbing I'm running Fragola Series 6000, 6 AN, 20 ft, Braided Stainless, PTFE, Black, from the 5th gen module with vaporworx regulator we are adding to a new OEM Spectra tank to the dead headed fuel rail. I'll leave the factory lines in the frame just in case I decide later that I need to run a return line to keep fuel cool. I'm pretty sure that we'll leave the stock G Body pickup in the tank and use it for a fuel sender and to vent to the charcoal canister which will have timed vacuum on it from the TBI. The feed and return portions of it will be capped off for now.




      I may also plumb in a fuel pressure sender up near the TBI if needed.

      I also have (3) tubes of Blue Sensor Safe RTV to use when putting all parts back onto the engine (intake manifold, mechanical fuel pump block plate etc).

      Hopefully I've thought it all out and am headed in the right direction. I'll do my best to keep the dirty electrical leads away from anything heading to the ECU and if they do have to cross, try to cross them at 90 degree angles. Wish me luck!!!
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    6. #446
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Central NY
      Posts
      240
      Country Flag: United States
      Do yourself a favor, have the intake powder coated now, while it's brand new and clean. That way it will still look like that after you install it. Bare, rough cast aluminum is a PITA to keep clean.

    7. #447
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Solid plan Lance. I would get the intake hard anodized. It has lasted amazingly well on my Cougar I take. Has a dark gray business look.
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #448
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      I forgot all about that part...thanks guys. Last one I used high temp clear paint on it and its lasted and looked great for almost 12 years. I'll put that on my list.
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    9. #449
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      All I can say is you will wonder why you waited so long to switch to EFI. Take your time and verify the wiring is correct as you go. It is MUCH easier to get it right as you do the installation than it is to trouble shoot an issue once it is all put together. When I installed my EFI I ended up with an intermittent electrical problem that would shut the engine down randomly. It took me nearly a month to trace the problem to a single crimped end on a ground wire.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    10. #450
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Wise words, Steve! Much easier to follow the instructions to the letter! Then you won't be chasing your ass for week because of a simple mistake or improvisation.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    11. #451
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks like progress. Good location for ECU. Like that accessory terminal you got.
      Figure a route for wires to tank yet? Also if you're using all the same common relays, keep at least one spare with you in glovebox or console, you may thank me later for that. Some relays I got marked Keep It Clean were some of the worst quality.
      Keeping stock fuel level sensor by itself sounds like a plan. I screwed mine up years ago modifying it for a factory style 255lph pump, too much crap in one hole.

      Having a fuel pressure gauge is about the simplest & best way to have an idea what's going on. Even just a liquid filled manual gauge under the hood like I got.

    12. #452
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Lance,

      Read the instructions three times. I'm not joking.

      Andrew
      So, what do I do when the instructions don't match what I have in my hands?


      Terminator instructions show red wire from 2 pin plug on 8366 distributor going to coil +, but the 558-304 harness in my hands has the red wire from 2 pin plug going back to the main engine harness.

      I'm assuming the white wire from 2 pin dist plug of 558-304 just goes to coil - and rest is good but asking just in case.





      Also, the red wire in the main engine harness for 12v power...is it okay to hook it to same clean side of the battery as the ECU power wire?

      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    13. #453
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Call tech support. LoL Not on Monday. It is their busiest day. Or make a post of the Holley forum.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    14. #454
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Holley Facebook group to the rescue, apparently Holley added a power wire to the harness about 2 years ago to make it easier for users.
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    15. #455
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome. I'm glad you're getting it sorted before you actually install it!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    16. #456
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Update pics...





      Top of air horn on back side



      Top of air horn front side



      Showing air cleaner spacer that makes my housing meet the hood correctly on the Q-jet vs the new TBI.



      Somehow I'm going to need to shave about an inch off of the front of spacer and tapered back to a 1/8" or so off the back half to make the housing meet the hood just right with the new setup.
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    17. #457
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      I guess now you'll need some sort of indexing marks on the spacer once it's installed.
      Before cutting the lower portion I'd probably put marker marks at front & rear and at sides, dividing it by 4 (or 90 degrees). Then I'd mark a line 1" at front, 1/8" at rear, & 7/16 at both sides. Then string tape around circumference to make marks meet.

      Aluminum spacer cut be cut a number of different methods according to your skills & what you're comfortable using. Could use a jigsaw cutting out a starting point at the shallow cut end.
      Could be cut a little at a time with a hand held portaband saw while clamped in vice.
      Could be cut with grinder and thin abrasive disc while in vice or clamps. Though cut in aluminum would be slow, it would be easy to see what you're doing and the cutting end of most abrasive blades will wear down fast enough not to clog much.

      Then for smoothing out cut if you don't have access to large enough belt or disc sander, could lay sheet of sandpaper taped on flat surface & rub part against it, machine sanding bad high spots showing up first if needed.

      Just a few suggestions...….

    18. #458
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by jlcustomz View Post
      I guess now you'll need some sort of indexing marks on the spacer once it's installed.
      Before cutting the lower portion I'd probably put marker marks at front & rear and at sides, dividing it by 4 (or 90 degrees). Then I'd mark a line 1" at front, 1/8" at rear, & 7/16 at both sides. Then string tape around circumference to make marks meet.

      Aluminum spacer cut be cut a number of different methods according to your skills & what you're comfortable using. Could use a jigsaw cutting out a starting point at the shallow cut end.
      Could be cut a little at a time with a hand held portaband saw while clamped in vice.
      Could be cut with grinder and thin abrasive disc while in vice or clamps. Though cut in aluminum would be slow, it would be easy to see what you're doing and the cutting end of most abrasive blades will wear down fast enough not to clog much.

      Then for smoothing out cut if you don't have access to large enough belt or disc sander, could lay sheet of sandpaper taped on flat surface & rub part against it, machine sanding bad high spots showing up first if needed.

      Just a few suggestions...….
      I chose my favorite machining option...found someone better than me with way more equipment to cut it down for me.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Hey Andrew, figured you may know the answer to this... I'd like to download\install the Holley EFI software to my laptop to start messing around with it and don't have my ECU up and running yet.

      The ECU was built in Dec 2018 and the kit came with the 3.5" display...should I install V4 or V5 of the software?
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    19. #459
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Lance,

      The ECU probably has v4. I'd download that first. There are some good reasons to switch to v5 eventually (faster data log rate) but to get you going, just get v4. Remember, ECU firmware and laptop software versions must match.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    20. #460
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Andrew, quick wiring question you may be able to answer.

      My car came with a 12v ignition switched harness that powered the electric choke once an oil pressure switch sensed pressure. You can see the oil pressure switch coming off the top of the block behind the intake area in this picture.



      I am thinking about using the lead that used to go to the electric choke (after the switch) to power up the coil. My thought is to make the system similar to how it operated from the factory, no spark until there is oil pressure at the switch. Good idea or not?

      I am using the factory pink 12v switched lead that used to go to the distributor to turn on the ECU.
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

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