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    Results 21 to 40 of 247
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,706
      Country Flag: United States
      I kinda like the one on the right more. Excellent fab work man. That engine is killer!!



      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD
      Follow me on Instagram: ryeguy2006a


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      Riverside, CA
      Posts
      51
      I would say the left one.

      what MIGHT look good is narrowing it slightly at the bottom without extending it down, possibly widening it slightly at the top.

      Quote Originally Posted by Ron S View Post
      From Ron's "$5000 budget mustang" thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Mustang/page98
      Obviously his is a 65-66 body but you get the idea.

      Just throwing it out there.
      Last edited by Evoix; 09-15-2012 at 07:09 AM. Reason: added pic
      • Mike L.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      nice looking scoop. has that quarter panel been slightly widened?

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Tampa, Florida
      Posts
      81
      What did you do with the frame rails in the rear? New ones?

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      The rear frame rails are parallel down the car until they come up over the rear axle. At that point they start angling outward towards the outside of the car in order to hang the shackles for the rear springs. I cut the frame rails at the high point where they go over the axle (this is where the angle starts) and removed them. I then used a piece of 2x4 120 wall square stock and slid it inside of the original frame rail where i cut it. It can be slid in a couple inches there and welded in. Now these new frame rails can run parallel down the rear of the car which also parallels the gas tank. This will allow the inner tub or your new one to be moved in 2 1/2" for more tire clearance.

      If you are still running leaf springs, you cant do this as you will have no where to hang the shackle. I have a triangulated four link setup in the rear and does not attach to the rearward section of frame rails anymore. These new rails now only support the rear section of body.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Chattanooga, TN
      Posts
      282
      All4rocks if you haven't seen Ron's stang you got about 8 hours and 100+ pages of pure awesome reading ahead of you!! Check it out!

      Your stang is looking great btw and I'm about to a similiar scoop design on my 67 coupe. :D
      Stephen S.
      1967 Ford Mustang 4.7L, T5

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Tampa, Florida
      Posts
      81
      Quote Originally Posted by All4rocks View Post
      The rear frame rails are parallel down the car until they come up over the rear axle. At that point they start angling outward towards the outside of the car in order to hang the shackles for the rear springs. I cut the frame rails at the high point where they go over the axle (this is where the angle starts) and removed them. I then used a piece of 2x4 120 wall square stock and slid it inside of the original frame rail where i cut it. It can be slid in a couple inches there and welded in. Now these new frame rails can run parallel down the rear of the car which also parallels the gas tank. This will allow the inner tub or your new one to be moved in 2 1/2" for more tire clearance.

      If you are still running leaf springs, you cant do this as you will have no where to hang the shackle. I have a triangulated four link setup in the rear and does not attach to the rearward section of frame rails anymore. These new rails now only support the rear section of body.
      I'm still keeping the leaf springs. I already had a set of 5leaf reverse eye from another project I was going to use just to keep the cost down. I cut the frame out and than made some pockets for the front spring mount. Than made some frame rails out of 2x3 straight back from there. Your right still not enough room for the shacks, so i'm going with a fuel cell and running the exhaust staight out the rear valance. I like the scoop on the right. It's different. Great fab work! Subscribed

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Just North of NYC
      Posts
      312
      Tunnel-Port!!! More info and pics?

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States

      Hemihunter

      More tunnel port motor pics are coming. We are painting the block and adding the accessories.
      Here are more pics of the new scoops almost finished being welded on the car. These scoops are functional. Upper ones do extract air and as you can see the lower have a 3" duct for cooling the brakes.
      Attached Images Attached Images        

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States

      Hemihunter

      functional 3" air duct for rear brakes
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States

      Hemihunter

      Thanks guys for the input on the scoops it seems to be unanimous. In test fitting the radius side scoops, we found the scoop itself to be way too big. So we had to compromise and split the difference. This made the scoop about
      1 1/2" wide like we wanted and it flowed with the body lines better. Any likes or dislikes?

      Here are pics of the spoiler and quarter extensions being tacked on. a few more adjustments and we will have it all fitting right.

      Wait to you see what we are doing with the bumper!
      Attached Images Attached Images          

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by stillridin View Post
      I'm still keeping the leaf springs. I already had a set of 5leaf reverse eye from another project I was going to use just to keep the cost down. I cut the frame out and than made some pockets for the front spring mount. Than made some frame rails out of 2x3 straight back from there. Your right still not enough room for the shacks, so i'm going with a fuel cell and running the exhaust staight out the rear valance. I like the scoop on the right. It's different. Great fab work! Subscribed
      Check out my build, thats exactly what I did.
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    13. #33
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Austin, Tx.
      Posts
      1,539
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome project!!

      I have been a big fan of the Tunnel Port 427 for years!! My best friend's '67 Shelby GT500 has been running the same motor for the last 30 years. For many years he ran a stock medium-riser short block. About 6-7 years ago he drove out to Shelby's shop in Las Vegas and picked up one of their aluminum 454 cubic inch aluminum short blocks. All this time he has been running the same tunnel-port heads and the dual-quad setup.

      Here he is at one of our autocrosses from 1980!

      Pretty nice car for something he paid $825.00 for in 1976!! At that time it was just a 9-year old car sitting in a guy's yard...



      Keep up the GREAT job!
      Ray
      FEW FRILLS, just BIG CHILLS!!!
      1972 VW Bug (427LS/T56 Magnum/9"-3.70 gears)
      18"x10-1/2" (315/30/18) Front, 18”x12" (335/30/18”) Rear
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Lady-Bug-quot

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks 454bug. That is an awesum picture too. Tell your friend ill pay him TRIPLE what he paid for the car if he wants to sell it to me LOL!

      We are putting in a 1967 427 Tunnel port motor
      Stroked to 454 CI
      Comp drag race cam
      roller rockers
      MSD Ignition
      Dual quad tunnel port intake
      2-Holley 750's custom built by Quickfuel Technologies

      Engine was dynoed at 633 HP and 650 torque at the flywheel
      Coupled to the 6 speed and 4:56 gears it should be real fun to drive. Cant wait!

    15. #35
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Austin, Tx.
      Posts
      1,539
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by All4rocks View Post
      Coupled to the 6 speed and 4:56 gears it should be real fun to drive. Cant wait!
      Wow!! 4:56 gears... You are going to blow the tires off the car in the first couple of gears!

      The rest of the setup sounds perfect!
      Ray
      FEW FRILLS, just BIG CHILLS!!!
      1972 VW Bug (427LS/T56 Magnum/9"-3.70 gears)
      18"x10-1/2" (315/30/18) Front, 18”x12" (335/30/18”) Rear
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Lady-Bug-quot

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Kinston, NC
      Posts
      118
      Subscribed! I am sending a web cam out to this build. lol
      1957 Chevy Bel Air sold
      1972 Chevy Chevelle sold
      1974 Porsche 911 Carrera sold
      1968 Ford Mustang coupe

      "That's a hell of a cam for the street son."
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhBtRMtpgzE

      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3873446/1968-ford-mustang

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States
      The 345/30/19 rear tires are 27.1 inches tall. That is almost 2 inches taller than stockers, so 4:56 gears seems appropriate. I have 4:11 on my other mustang with stock height tire and a 5 speed and it works well.

      When i do the RPM calculator and put in:
      4:56 gears and my 6th gear tranny ratio and 27.1 inch tire size, it comes out to a RPM of 2200 at 65 MPH.

      Sounds like that should work fine. I dont want to do 200 mph in this thing!

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Sep 2012
      Posts
      153
      Country Flag: United States

      Hemihunter

      I made a steel R model front valance for the car. I like it but i am going to make a new one just a little bit different. The front bumper is just sitting on the car and is not in its proper location. This valance is up for sale if somebody wants it.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Pine Bush, NY 12566
      Posts
      122
      Country Flag: United States
      ...always liked those old fastback Stangs...
      This car is going to be cool, amazing fab work

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Portland, Oregon
      Posts
      109
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice!!!!

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