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    Results 41 to 60 of 78

    Thread: 63 Biscayne

    1. #41
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      I have to say that I like everything that you are doing, nice score on the engine and the idea for the trans mock up, really cool. The sheet metal work looks to be coming along nicely, the car looked really good at the start too, bummer that was under the paint
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    2. #42
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks! I knew it had issues when I got it but, not nearly that many. I don't think I will ever buy a car that has been restored unless, it was very well documented. It's just too easy for folks to slap a bunch of filler and paint on it.
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      Time for an update again. I've actually had some time off work to spend some quality alone time with the car. For this update, I've done the following:


      -Finished welding up the driver's side quarter panel patch. The patch panels are a POS but, I made it work. I was going to weld up another rust hole but, decided I would put in a patch...While I was welding I heard a clunk and now I have a new dent to fix.

      -Fabricated seat mounts for the front and back seats. I sourced the seats from a Lexus SC400, the fronts are full power and heated. Although there are a crap load of wires, you only need three wires on the driver's seat (two grounds and a power) and two wires on the passenger seat. The back seat was a little more involved. As you can see from the pictures, it was too tall for the car so, I cut a six inch chunk out of the middle of it and welded the inner frame together. Fortunately, the foam isn't very flammable. I used 3/4" square tubing for the bottom frame, light weight and plenty of support even with me sitting in it. The seat doesn't sit as low as it did in the Lexus so, I welded in a couple of bars so the upholstery folks have something to fill the hole in with.

      -Worked out a few dents on the drivers side quarter and while working on the rear tail light panel, discovered that it is going to have to be replaced. I think the patch panels for these are halfway decent and if they are bad, I'll just graft in a piece.

      -Removed the passenger side trunk weatherstrip rail and replaced the metal that it attaches to on the quarter panel. I finally got a chance to use the shrinker/stretcher that I've had sitting around the garage and it was worth the $50 bucks I spent on it.

      Pending your comments and suggestions...
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      OK, having some issues loading pictures...
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      Name:  P1010044 - Copy.jpg
Views: 1323
Size:  34.5 KB
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      Your Clunk was the panel warping from it getting to hot?

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      It was the panel warping about three inches on top of the patch but, I think it was because I had too tight of a gap for the patch. I got most of it pulled up with a stud puller and will have to fill the rest of it. After the fact, I read about using rounded corners on patch panels to help prevent warping.
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      So, the pictures aren't in the exact order but, you should get the idea.















































      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States

      Rear filler panel, tail light panel, dents hinges and fuel cell

      I didn't think I made much progress since the last update but, was able to get a few things done.

      -Replaced the drivers side rear tail light panel
      -Replaced the filler below the trunk
      -Welded and panel bonded the trunk weatherstrip channels. I am really glad I have a shrinker/stretcher otherwise this really would have been a PITA.
      -Stripped all the surface rust off of the trunk lid
      -Fixed the majority of the dents on the PS quarter panel however, I will still need a bit of filler on the seams where I welded in the patch. Seems like every time I weld in a patch panel, I end up getting a pucker (low spot) where the seam is. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.
      -Rebuilt all of the hinges
      -Fixed the master cylinder backing plate to allow for the difference between the original firewall and the smooth firewall
      -And the big thing, last night I looked outside and a big box is next to the garage...My Aeromotive Stealth Fuel Cell and cage built by Schwartz!!!















      In case you're wondering why all of the Ms on the weatherstrip channel, turn your computer upside down and you will see Ws Marking where I needed to strip weld thru primer off of for the panel bond.

      One other little project was building a caulking gun for the 50ml 3M seam sealer. Short story is I saw a great deal on seam sealer but, didn't realize that it was only 50ml instead of the standard size so, instead of spending another $50 for a new gun, I just made one.

      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      23
      Country Flag: Canada
      Yup I am in school for auto-body currently and we were taught to make our patches with rounded corners. As for the puckering, your pretty much going to have to put some filler on the spot you filled unless you can the welder set just right so it doesn't sink in.

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks.

      Too bad I figured out the rounded corner thing after I'm almost done with my patches. I get one more chance on my PS door to get it right.
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      Not much accomplished today. I just confirmed that I am really a fan of stud guns and associated pullers. Seems to me like I have better luck with a stud gun than I do with hammer and dolly. The other thing that I've found I like is using layout dye to see the low spots. Until I started using this, I just used primer and guide coat and found I was wasting a lot of primer doing my rough work.

      Managed to make a crease pretty much disappear and what's left will get filled in with filler or some high build.





      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Location
      New Mexico
      Posts
      38
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome build, I will continue to look for updates
      I'd rather laugh with the sinners, then cry with the saints.

      My 61' bubble top build
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/104054-61-bubble-top

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States

      Fuel cell mounting, fuel cell cover and throttle pedal

      Time for another update. Took a bit of time off of work for the holidays and managed to get a bit accomplished. I'm really close on the body where I have all of the rough metal work finished and need to spray some epoxy before I start using the filler. But, with this unbelievably cold weather it will take me forever to heat up the garage.

      For this update, I've done the following:

      -Fabricated brackets for the fuel cell cage and mounted it to the frame. When doing this, there was really one thing I wish I had...A good working knowledge of geometry. I guess there is a reason that I wasn't a mathematician . Even with my weak skills I had just enough steel for fabricate the brackets. I planned on using a fuel cell remote filler but, when I received it, figured out it was just too big to fit in the original filler pocket so, I'll make the original filler neck work.



      -Made a cover for the fuel cell to replace the metal I had to cut out of the trunk. Surprisingly, I did it correctly on the first time and didn't waste half a sheet of steel like I've done a time or two before.

      -Lastly, I mounted my throttle pedal. I was originally planning on welding some studs to the firewall but, with the tight clearances, it made more sense to attach it to the master cylinder and steering column backing plate.

      Next step is to mount the vintage air mock up unit and install the rivnuts for the fuel cell cover.












      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553


    15. #55
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States

      Fuel filter/regulator and fuel lines

      I haven't gotten much accomplished. I really need to shoot some primer and lay down some filler but, with the daytime high temps in the teens, that isn't going to happen anytime soon.

      So, in the interim I decided to go ahead and plumb in my fuel cell. I shopped around a bit for lines and was going to go with the lines from Pegasus racing but, a bit too pricey for me. Instead I went with Aeroquip Starlite hose and fittings connecting the fuel cell to the Corvette filter/regulator. I will run one -6 line to the frame and it will connect to stainless hardline from there to the engine compartment.

      The Starlite hose is very easy to work with. It cuts easily and the fittings are easy to install...Much more so than my last experience with doing hydraulic fittings with a crescent wrench and a vice.

      The one change I will probably make is getting rid of the vent line and going with one of these PPM fuel cell vents http://pitstopusa.com/i-5081296-ppm-...l-vent-08.html





      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      Fuel cell looks good. I have been looking at those as well, i want to talk to them because I do not need the 340 pump, 200 will work fine for my power levels. What does that corvette regulator keep pressure at? My plans are for the exact same setup you have, lines and everything. Did you keep track of all the fittings you are using? I could really use a list
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Motorcitydak View Post
      Fuel cell looks good. I have been looking at those as well, i want to talk to them because I do not need the 340 pump, 200 will work fine for my power levels. What does that corvette regulator keep pressure at? My plans are for the exact same setup you have, lines and everything. Did you keep track of all the fittings you are using? I could really use a list
      They have a cell with a 200 pump in it. Shop around, there are a lot of good prices on it. I ended up buying it from Schwartz, he matched the best price and since he did the cage and neck, it made sense just to get it from him. Here are the parts that I bought, I ended up getting them from Summit and Racer Parts wholesale. I ended up not needing the -6 elbow as it interfered with the my fuel cell cover, I had to order a lower profile one.


      AER-FBU0600 -6 StartLite Racing Hose 10
      AER-FBU0800 -8 StartLite Racing Hose 6
      AER-FCM4432 Aeroquip 90 Degree Reusable Elbow Fitting- Black Anodized - -06 Aeroquip 90 Degree Reusable Elbow Fitting- Black 1
      AER-FCM4433 Aeroquip 90 Degree Reusable Elbow Fitting- Black Anodized - -08 Aeroquip 90 Degree Reusable Elbow Fitting- Black 1
      AER-FCM4412 Aeroquip Straight Reusable Swivel Fitting- Black Anodized - -06 Aeroquip Straight Reusable Swivel Fitting- Black 4
      AER-FCM4413 Aeroquip Straight Reusable Swivel Fitting- Black Anodized - -08 Aeroquip Straight Reusable Swivel Fitting- Black 2
      GFR-4721
      FRA-499208-BL
      RUS-640940
      RUS-644113
      RUS-644133
      SUM-220122-B
      SUM-220633-2B 6 AN TUBE NUTS 2PK BLK SUM-220634-2B 6 AN TUBE SLEEVES 2PK BLK
      SUM-220840B 8 AN FLARE CAP BLK
      G-Force AN Fitting Vice Jaw Covers
      8 X 3/4 - 16 90 DEGREE SWIVEL
      FUEL RAIL ADAPTER FITTING
      LT1 QUICK CONNECT FUEL FITTING
      ADAPTER FITTING
      -8 TO -6 ADAPTER
      1
      1
      1
      1
      1
      1
      1
      1
      1
      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Carlisle, PA
      Posts
      184
      Country Flag: United States

      Fuel cell vent and initial transmission install

      I finally received the last of the bits for the fuel cell. The original return line elbow was too tall and it just brushed up against the fuel cell cover. It probably would have worked but, I didn't want to risk it. So, I used a -8 elbow and used the -8 to -6 reducer on the output. I also installed the PPM vent instead of using the hose loop. The vent is essentially like a large differential breather.

      I finally got my 6L80E transmission. The last big piece to put in so I can finish up all of the mock up and pull the body back off of the frame. By the time I get to that stage hopefully it will be above 65 degrees so the paint will cure. I think the transmission will work without having to modify the cross-member but, as it is I had to turn it around. The clearance between the rear of the trans and the cross-member is close but, it isn't touching.






      63 Biscayne
      Schwartz Performance Chassis

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ht=#post916553

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Apr 2008
      Location
      Sequim, Wa.
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      Great build! Subscribed...

    20. #60
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      SW, Michigan
      Posts
      875
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool project!!!

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