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Thread: 1971 Pontiac Lemans Convertible
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09-03-2012 #21Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Location
- Springfield, OH
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- 58
This post will document the transmission crossmember I made. I first tried to modify the Pontiac cross member but found it wouldn't have been feasible. I also considered buying a Chevelle cross member and doing the easy typical mod of flipping and re-welding the tab on, but didn't want to spend the money for a new one or spend time looking for a used one.
I was getting more comfortable with my welding skills so I decided to give this a go. I used metal angles and straps I found at Lowes. I decided to make it in three pieces, two small brackets that sit on top of the frame and the main cross member part. Height adjustments for driveline angles will be done between the frame brackets and main cross member.
The brackets are in the shape of a "Z", I tried to add strengthening braces to all parts as much as I could.
The main cross member was made of several pieces, here are views looking forward and aft:
Not the prettiest thing in the world, but hopefully it works for awhile. Someday I will probably make another one that looks better.
Now next will be headers and exhaust.
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09-03-2012 #22Registered User- Join Date
- Nov 2011
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- Springfield, OH
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- 58
As promised some info on the headers and exhaust:
After doing my usual "exhaustive" research I decided on Doug's LS1 swap Headers for A-bodies. I bought part number D3338, the ceramic coated ones. Amazon actually caries these, so I got a pretty good deal and free shipping. Inside the package was the headers, gaskets, bolts, 3" to 2 1/2" reducers, two clamps, and two O2 sensor extension harnesses. The headers have O2 bungs welded on the outside of each collector. They come wrapped in bubble wrap which I left on during installation to avoid scratches and dings. I installed these before the body went back on so they went on pretty easy.
These fit great in my situation, I have plenty of clearance everywhere. I should mention that I did move the brake distribution block from it's normal position on the inside of the frame to the top of the frame below the master cylinder, you can see that in the driver's side picture below. I knew from my research that this was a possible issue and it didn't really bother me too much as I was running new lines anyway and also adding an adjustable proportioning valve nearby.
One issue that I did have to deal with is that the O2 extension harnesses supplied by Dougs would not work with the engine wiring harness from the 04 GTO, apparently they use different connectors (square gray) than the F-body LS1 harnesses (square black). I did call Dougs about it and was just told to go buy the correct ones. I found and ordered the correct ones on ebay, they seem to work fine.
Another issue I had was that the original GM spark plug wires didn't fit very well around the header tubes in some cases. I decided to get a set of MSD -32813 spark plug wires, these have bendable spark plug boots so you can position the boot wires away from the headers as needed. These are also shown in the pictures below.
Here are pictures of the headers: Excuse the dust, been busy making cabinets lately and the dust goes everywhere.
For exhaust I decided to go with the Pypes 2 1/2" system with x-pipe, part number PYE-SGA12S. I chose these because they seemed to have a fairly good reputation and are stainless steel for a reasonable price. The system comes with stainless hangers that are the same design as the original GM hangers. This system did require some mods to install, I end up trimming the four pipes forward and aft of the x-pipe as necessary to get everything to fit.
The Pypes kit comes with standard u-bolt style clamps, I did end up replacing some of these with stainless band clamps I got from Summit, part number WLK-33226.
This picture shows the driver's side header from underneath the car. You can see there is plenty of clearance between the header and floor, frame, and other parts. Also plenty of room to install the O2 sensor. The Pypes clamp was used to attach the reducer to the header collector and the band clamp I bought was used to attach the reducer to the exhaust. You can also see the Holley LS1 swap oil pan in this picture and how well it fits flush with the bottom on the engine crossmember.
The picture below shows the x-pipe and mufflers installed. I positioned the clamps in such a way to avoid damage from speed bumps and to make the bolts accessible in the future.
Now that I have installed as much as I can on the frame I can put the body back on, that will be the next update (the above pictures were taken after that).
10-21-2012 #23Registered User- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Location
- Springfield, OH
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- 58
Next step was to put the body back on the frame.
I just reversed the procedure when I removed the body - we rolled the rolltisserie back to horizontal and supported the body again with the concrete blocks and 2x4s as before. At this point the rolltisserie was removed from the body. The frame was rolled back under the body and I lowed the body back onto the frame, doing it gradually removing a 2x4 spacer at each corner at a time so the body wouldn't get twisted. As I got closer I lined up the frame under the body so the body bolt holes would line up.
When I removed the body from the frame most of the cage nuts were rusted to the point where they either broke or I had to cut through the bolt. I don't particular care for this GM design where the nuts were hidden in body cavities the way they were, if the body were ever to be removed again I wanted the process to be easier. I also wanted to use stainless fasteners as much as possible and cage nuts don't come in stainless. Here is what I came up with.
In most locations I drilled 1 1/2" holes through the sheet metal floor directly above the bolt locations. I did this by first drilling a small pilot hole through the sheet metal floor from the bottom through the larger body hole in the floor brace while the body was rotated on the rolltisserie. I then drilled the 1 1/2" hole from the top through the floor using a bi-metal hole saw. I bought 7/16" stainless bolts of varying lengths along with stainless nylon lock nuts and large stainless fender washers. I also used new rubber body mount bushings I bought from OPGI, and used the cone washers that came with the kit but not the bolts.
I had to trim the upper washer as shown so it would fit through the 1 1/2" hole in the floor. I was able to reach all of the bolts and nuts to tighten them by myself except the ones under the trunk hinges, those need two people to do. The hole in the floor will be covered up with the 1 1/2" diameter chrome cap, which is a standard item in the blue hardware drawers at Lowes. I will just run the Dynamat over these covers.
The most rear mounts were a little different situation due to where they were located. I cut a square hole in the area in the trunk to access the cavity to install the washer and nut. I will make a overlapping cover panel which will be painted and installed with stainless screws and sealant. Cutting these holes also allowed access to spray the cavity with internal frame coating.
10-23-2012 #24Registered User- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Location
- Springfield, OH
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- 58
Once the body was back on the frame I was eager to get the engine started as most of you would. So that meant I needed to get a lot of things installed in the engine bay.
I noticed on the new GTO a lot of components were mounted on the inner fenders. I wanted to move things over as simply as possible so I figured I would reinstall these components in similar locations on the Lemans. I didn't want to rework the harness and possibly create a lot of headaches so that's why I was compelled to use the existing component locations as much as possible. I had previously blasted, primed and painted the inner fenders in preparation for this time so I went ahead and installed them. I also installed the radiator core support and passenger fender to help support it. I am going for a factory look here, as if GM would have built a 71 Lemans with 2004 technology.
On the new GTO the underhood fuse panel and cruise/throttle cable components are mounted on the passenger inner fender. These pictures shows how I mounted these. I made brackets as required and attached everything through existing or new holes in the inner fender with stainless bolts. When placing components I kept in mind that the associated connectors on the wiring harness had to reach the components so I laid the wiring harness over the engine bay as I did this process.
This picture shows the mounting of the underhood fuse panel.
The fuse panel attaches directly to the inner fender on the back side, the forward side needed a bracket I made to support it:
This picture shows the mounting of the cruise and throttle cable components.
I am not sure exactly what these components are, I assume the forward box shaped item is the cruise servo, the rear cylindrical thing is where all the cruise and throttle cables come together. For the cruise servo I cut the supporting bracket from the GTO donor and mounted it with a supporting bracket underneath that I made.
For the cable component I made a bracket from some angle to support it on the inner fender, this is a view looking down, forward is to the right:
On the new GTO the battery is located on the passenger side just behind the headlight. I was at a car show a few months ago and noticed on Pontiac A-bodies the battery is on the driver’s side and on Chevelles the battery is on the passenger side. To keep things the same as the new GTO I mounted the battery on the Chevelle or passenger side. Since my GTO donor didn’t come with a battery I got a new one from Autozone. I got the correct battery for the new GTO, it fits in the a-body location just fine.
On the new GTO the ECM is mounted on the lower driver’s inner fender just above the frame rail. Again, I picked a similar location although I moved it up to get it away from the header. The ECM is mounted in a plastic holder with a cover. I just used the holes in the holder to locate new holes in the inner fender.
10-25-2012 #25Registered User- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Location
- Springfield, OH
- Posts
- 58
Alternator Relocation
As I mentioned in a previous post I decided to relocate the alternator after I discovered it would interfere with the steering gearbox. I looked into the different kits on the market to accomplish the task but didn’t want to spend the money. These kits start at about $150 and go into several hundreds for the fancy kits with polished parts and such. For this project I am more interested in function than form so I set about making my own mount.
I decided to relocate the alternator up high on the passenger side. This brings it up closer to the battery and underhood fuse panel. I think it would have been tougher to put it high on the driver’s side with the existing power steering pump.
The alternator was originally mounted on the front of the block down low on the driver’s side. It appeared to me that the front of the driver’s side head was on the same plane as the front of the block, and I researched and found out that the passenger side head is offset to the rear about 0.75 inch. So I decided to base my bracket on a 0.75 think aluminum plate figuring that would put the alternator roughly in the same plane again. I went through several designs using ¾” particle board until I had a design I was happy with. I actually spent more time fussing with the tensioner relocation trying to get the proper leverage to tension the belt. This bracket relocates both items.
Below is a drawing with dimensions of my bracket. I made it from a 8 inch by 8 inch by 0.75 inch aluminum plate that I bought from McMaster for about $39 (part number 9246K51). At the time I didn’t have access to a machine shop so I cut this plate with a reciprocating saw and finished it with belt and spindle sanders. Crude, but I got it done.
Disregard the two holes right next to each other, they were from an earlier unsuccessful attempt to relocate the tensioner bracket.
The picture below shows where I mounted the bracket. I am using the three outer holes on the front of the passenger head. The fourth most inner hole is not used. In this picture you can also see the two holes just below on the water pump that used to support the tensioner bracket.
The bracket is mounted to the front of the passenger side head with M10-1.5 x 40 bolts as shown below. The holes in the head are already tapped to that thread size.
The alternator is mounted to the bracket with two 3/8 x 5 1/2 in. bolts and one 3/8 x 4 1/2 bolt, I used grade 8 bolts.
The tensioner is mounted with one M10-1.5 x 130 bolt in the inner hole, this bolt goes through the hole on the bracket and into the existing hole in the head. The outer bolt is 3/8 x 4 and threads into the bracket. To keep the tensioner aligned with the other pulleys it is installed with spacers between the alternator bracket and the tensioner bracket. These spacers, made from 1/2" pipe or heavy conduit, are 1.70 inches long.
I put a straightedge across some of the pulleys to make sure they were in the same plane, I did put one washer between the alternator and bracket at each of the three bolt locations to get the pulleys in the same plane.
For the belt I tried measuring with a string and then a metal tape measure wrapped around all of the pulleys but that only got me a starting point for belt length. From there it was a trial and error process of getting belts from the auto parts store and trying different ones until one worked well. For this particular installation that ended up being a Gates K060815 belt (six ribs, 81.5 inches long). This belt fits pretty snug, the tensioner is at the higher end of its scale.
The bracket seems very sturdy and I have run the engine several times without issue, although not at full throttle yet.
10-26-2012 #26Registered User- Join Date
- Nov 2011
- Location
- Lowell MI
- Posts
- 50
That's a nice bracket!
10-28-2012 #27