Project OCD (I bought a car to build tools???) - '67 Mustang Coupe

[modmotor46]

Finally finished the DRO - if I can ever control my ADD I might actually get to finish the car :-)

DRO Panel


Z axis scale/pickup mount




Y axis scale/pickup mount


X axis scale/pickup mount



...on to finish the sail panels and tie the roof to the quarters!!!


Danny,

[modmotor46]

Finally finished tying the roof into the quarters! Still have some grinding to do (which I hate) and the sheet metal fabrication should be finished :-)



Then I'll put 'er on the rotisserie and finish up some welding on the bottom....a little closer every day ;-)


oh yeah, also still trying to figure out the best size wheel/tire combination for the rear - what a pain in the A$$! That's a 17x8 (30mm offset) wheel from a '98 Cobra I'm using to try and gauge how big I can go - shooting for a 19x9 (or a 18x9) wheel with at least a 40mm offset. Hope to run at least a 285x35 tire.



Danny,

[rdean9215]

Great build. Question with IRS did this give you more room for wider rims? I have a cobra IRS I'm currently replacing all the weak parts and getting ready to install and was hoping I could get 98 cobra rims to fit 17x10.5 with 305s or 315 tires. I know I'll need to do a mini tube. Is that the area you are hitting or is it the IRS cradle? Thanks

[modmotor46]

Thanks rdean9215! I plan to replace the weak links also but haven’t decided which products to use. Which vendor did you decide on and how is that experience going?

The biggest challenge I see with wheels for the IRS (which is 1” wider than the factory ’67 rear end) are the quarter panel\wheelhouse openings. However, there is actually a fair amount of room between the wheels/tires and the frame, cradle and suspension components. Unless you plan to add additional flares you are somewhat limited. There are a couple of options but as with anything there are consequences. Option 1: flare or wide body the quarters – more sheet metal work and/or may not like the look (I actually like the wide body option and have been wondering if I should just bite the bullet and do it) or Option 2: Go with a higher offset wheel (60+mm) – the issue here would be the load placed on the bearings in the hub under extreme conditions. The design was originally intended to use a 26mm offset with a 9” wheel. I would think under high cornering loads the bearings may prematurely wear - Not sure if you plan to autocross and/or road race. I took some measurements with the 17x8 Cobra wheel as depicted below. Also, no need to minitub as you’ll hit the cradle and suspension components before the inside of the wheelhouse/frame.

Here I hung a plumb-bob about a 1/4” inside the lip of the quarter panel (they need a little more work but I rolled the lip of the quarter/wheelhouse to give more room and not cut tires). As you can see the wheel itself is only 5/8” from the line. You’ll have to calculate the distance of the tire based on different sizes. I found an awesome tire size comparer that allows you to play with different size tires here.





Danny,

[andrewb70]

Danny,

That tire and wheel calculator is awesome.

Andrew

[rdean9215]

I ended up getting the parts from different places. Found really good deal on all the delrin control arm bushings from drop engineering (1/4 the price of full tilt). Fit is perfect. Rest of the bushings came from full tilt racing. Found good deal on inner tie rod from Kenny brown performance on eBay and and using using maximum Motorsport outers. Got the ford racing rear cover but have not figured out which different pump to use. It would have been easier to get it all in one box from full tilt but I save a couple hundred and was able to spread it out over several months so the wife didnt get on to me ?. I started replacing parts on the control arm but then stopped to work on groping the motor and t56 mag in. Almost done with that and will go back to the IRS. The tool kit from full tilt was a must for me to get the bushings out

[modmotor46]

rdean9215,

I've seen a couple of good deals on the Drop Engineering bushings; glad to hear they fit good. But as the gears in my head start turning (which really means the OCD is kicking in), I've decided to turn my own bushings. Machining Acetal is pretty fun too. I sourced a good deal on the Acetal and will either use DOM tubing or stainless for the inner sleeves. Shoehorning the IRS in an old Mustang sure if fun huh? ;-) What engine are you going with?


Danny,

[modmotor46]

Now that the holiday's are past us it's back to the car :-)

I finally got some wheels and tires in my quest to stick the largest wheel/tire combo on the IRS without getting too crazy. The napkin math from earlier paid off...somewhat...it's confirmed an 18x10 wheel with at least a 40mm offset will fit (maybe even a 19x10)! However, the rubber is a different story. I'm going with Nitto NT05 tires with a 285x35 in the rear.

At close to full shock compression the dang tire rubs the wheelhouse/quarter panel opening :-( A couple of options would be to go with a smaller tire - NOT an option! or flare the quarter panel - NOT an option as I don't like the flared look; the stock Mustang already has a flared wheel opening that looks great just the way it is!!!

In my insanity I've decided to widebody the whole quarter panel and move it outwards about 1". I started in roughly the center of the wheelhouse and cut a line from just above the back of the rocker all the way around to the bottom-rear of the quarter panel. I'm adding enough filler sheet metal to move the lip of the quarter about 1" outward (it actually ended up being 7/8" but who's counting). I'm using a hydraulic frame stretcher to persuade the gap/distance I need. You'll notice in the picture that the line/cut seems to zigzag at the top of the wheelhouse - this was due to the inner roof structure on coupes that tie into the top of the wheelhouse. I simply cut around it since it was fully welded to the wheelhouse.

The top of the quarter was cut from front to back. Relief notches will be cut to allow the quarter to bow around the wheel opening. Filler metal will be welded in to make up the gap. This will allow the quarter to start in its original location (to lineup with the door/b-pillar) with a subtle bow around the opening and end up in its original location in the rear - at least that's the plan :-)

Before cutting


Tire rubs at close to full shock compression


Hydraulic frame stretcher "persuading". It really doesn't take much to pull the quarter out.


Filler sections tacked in place


New tire clearance


Top of quarter will be notched and gradually bowed around the wheel opening.



Danny,

[chunger]

Slick idea on the subtle flaring of the fenders. I like it!

[modmotor46]

Thanks Chunger! I'll let you know how slick of an idea it is once the top of the quarter is stitched back together ;-)



Danny,

[Crestronwizard]

That's exactly what we did to my quarters. I'm running a 19" wheel with 295 tires. Great to see another coupe build!!

[modmotor46]

That's exactly what we did to my quarters. I'm running a 19" wheel with 295 tires. Great to see another coupe build!!

Thanks Geoff! Your build is absolutely amazing! The technology concept is insane too! Love it!

Any suggestions/tips on the quarters? I stretched the entire wheelhouse out about 1.25" which moved the actual lip out about 1". Problem I'm having now is the top side of the quarter seems to be under a lot of tension. I'm trying to follow a gradual curve from front to back but have to put a lot of force on either end to get the quarter to line up.


Danny,

[modmotor46]

A little more progress. Made some relief cuts in the side of the quarter - really helped allow the quarter to follow a better transition since stretching out the bottom half!!! All the previous tension is gone and now I just need to finish up the filler pieces and stitch it all back together. I plan to solder the joints so they're all smooth and flow with the body lines it should have.





Front portion is all that remains to finish on this quarter



oh yeah, and in the mean time scored some front brake upgrades thanks to TCI!


Danny,

[wfo guy]

I think we're all nuts! Good progress! When I was young, nobody would have done these kind of mods. I remember looking at pretty good beginnings and saying, "it's got a little rust" Lets keep looking. I'm a 67 fan so I'm excited for you. I'm looking forward to the drive report.

[modmotor46]

LOL, thanks wfo_guy! I hope I can start making enough progress to get closer to being able to actually drive it! The bigger challenge now is I've caught the '33 Ford bug....bad! I have been wanting to build a FFR 33 for a while now (it will definitely be my next project). Prior to the progress I just made on the quarter I was seriously thinking about tabling the '67 project for now and spending just a few weeks/months to get a running/driving 33 on the road.

When I mentioned that idea to my wife she started laughing! She said "wait...what...you're going to buy this kit, and have it together and driving in just a few months?"..."ha ha ha"..."without any modifications?"..."ha ha ha".......she knows me all too well at this point!!! I can't leave anything alone - it would definitely have to get modified someway somehow!


Danny,

[modmotor46]

Finished welding the quarter panels. Now it's time to grind, grind and grind - oh joy. After that I plan to body solder all the joints with Eastwood's lead free solder and then grind and sand some more :-)



Closer shot of the gradual flare/bow around the wheel opening.


Filler pieces of sheet metal in the wheelhouse area.


Underside of the rear portion of the quarters.


Next on the agenda - machine the Delrin bushings for the IRS control arms :-) It'll be a nice break from sheetmetal work!!!


Danny,

[Crestronwizard]

Thanks Geoff! Your build is absolutely amazing! The technology concept is insane too! Love it!

Any suggestions/tips on the quarters? I stretched the entire wheelhouse out about 1.25" which moved the actual lip out about 1". Problem I'm having now is the top side of the quarter seems to be under a lot of tension. I'm trying to follow a gradual curve from front to back but have to put a lot of force on either end to get the quarter to line up.


Danny,

Sorry I missed your question. Looks like you did exactly what I was going to say we did. Cut reliefs. Looking great. Keep at it!! Don't let project creep get you ;)

[rdean9215]

Sorry haven't been on here in a while. I built a 347 out of a late model 302 roller bock from DSS with Kaase p38 heads. Should be good for 550hp. ?

[modmotor46]

Thanks Geoff, How's that BA TechnoStang coming? Oh yeah, and the '53 is pretty awesome too!



Danny,

[modmotor46]

Hey rdean9215, sounds like a sweet stroker! How much total bank do you think you'll have in that engine? I was contemplating building a pushrod engine (408 Windsor) but the long block alone was more than a Coyote crate engine :-(



Danny,