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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Houston, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamHatco View Post
    Is that a crack on the front left intake runner? Looks like it. If is it could cause a vaccume leak.

    Sam
    The runners were CNC milled in halves, and have a seam between halves. Part of the design, no leaks.
    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    Its only been a few days since my last update, but it has been a busy few days!

    -Installed Ram Clutch (part 98931HD, single disk ceramic/bronze disk material)



    -Installed engine into engine bay





    -3M Scotchbrite brushed the intake manifold and valve covers, sprayed them with Dupli-color clear engine paint to seal them.



    -Intake manifold was too tall at the throttle body mounting flange, so I had to cut it down and reshape the flange to clear the hood. I removed about half an inch from the flange, and flipped the throttle body upside down. It should actually work better this way, since my throttle cable comes from the driver side anyways.









    Brown Truck Santa showed up on Monday.



    Forgeline GZ3 wheels are one of my favorites. I also had a set on my '14 Viper TA, and love them. I did things a little different than most, went with a Hyper Silver powdercoated lip. I do not plan on having any chrome on this car, but wanted the appearance of silver color instead. All emblems and rear bumper will be done in a similar Hyper Silver color. Centers are Matte Graphite. I designed the centercap logo, and had Forgeline cut them for me.

    Forgeline GZ3
    18x8.0 front with 245/40-18 Toyo R888 tire
    19x12.0 rear with 345/30-19 Toyo R888 tire (wheel has 6.0" lip depth)
    Matte Graphite Center
    Hyper Silver Lip and Inner









    I put the wheels on the car, and pushed it outside for some photos. It was finally great to see the car on the ground again, with nice wheels. It has been over 2 years since it had decent wheels on it.



















    Here is a fun before/after photo that I posted on my Facebook page.



    Car is now moved to my 4-post lift, for final assembly.



    Tony
    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    23
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    Wheels look Sweeeeet... love the center caps! Are the Toyo's a drag radial compound?

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    29
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    Beautiful...Good Job and Keep after it.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Houston, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by drc9805 View Post
    Wheels look Sweeeeet... love the center caps! Are the Toyo's a drag radial compound?
    They are soft, but are intended for road course. I have several friends that daily drive them, on high-powered cars. Most of the Underground Racing Lambo's run these tires.
    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nine Ball View Post
    They are soft, but are intended for road course. I have several friends that daily drive them, on high-powered cars. Most of the Underground Racing Lambo's run these tires.
    They look like they are soft and designed to be somewhat street legal. I currently run the Nitto 555R's and like them but I've always seen Toyo's on different race cars and think I want to give one of their soft compounds a try. The Nitto's are only rated for like 15,000 miles I think but I don't drive mine much so it's not too bad. Of course, when I drive it there's a lot of tire spinning going on so they don't come close to the 15K miles!

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Houston, TX
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    Today, I got to play the role of novice sheetmetal fabricator. I had originally installed the SpeedTech transmission tunnel, back when I was planning to use the SpeedTech/ATS engine mounts and cross-member. But, I made the switch to the Holley/Hooker engine mounts and headers, because I wanted the engine to sit as low and far back as possible. Glad I did so, because of how close the intake manifold came to the hood, even in the lowest position.

    But, as many of you know, parts from different brands do not play well together. The transmission tunnel did not line up with the new location of the shifter. I installed the transmission, and marked the holes from underneath, and drilled the four corners where the shifter plate is located. You can see I nailed it, with the SpeedTech tunnel plate having the corner right in the middle of the shifter. Typical. Haha





    This would require me to fabricate a new shifter cover. I wanted to make sure it was removable, so that I could easily access the shifter and remove it, if needed.

    Spot welds drilled from the SpeedTech tunnel cover. Cut the rear section of the tunnel cover off.



    Here is where the T56 transmission sits, relative to everything. Yes, I got very good at installing this transmission, did it about 4 times yesterday.





    Opened up the hole to match the rear of the shifter plate location.



    I made a template out of posterboard, then traced it onto some sheetmetal. I cut it out with my plasma cutter, and used a sheet metal brake and some hammering to make the bends.

    Installed some 1/4-inch nut-serts into the floorboard.



    Final fitment done. Time to install the transmission again, to mark the shifter hole placement.















    Tony
    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Houston, TX
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    I took some photos for everyone. Those searching for combos may find this information useful. The fitment was absolutely perfect, everything cleared nicely and did not require any modifications. It has been very rare that something has fit properly on this project, almost should rename the car to Project "Nothing Fits". So, I'm glad to see that this combo actually fit perfectly. I had to use the Mast oil pan instead of the Holley Part 302-2, because I have a stroker crank, and the Holley does not clear the stroker. The Mast pan does clear the stroker crank. Quality-wise, however, the Holley was a much nicer casting, looked more OEM than the Mast pan does.

    LS engine with 1998-2002 Camaro T56 transmission and bellhousing
    Mast Motorsports LS Conversion Cast Oil Pan (Part# 401-111 )
    Dipstick - GM (Part#12570788 )
    Dipstick Tube - GM (Part# 12570787 )
    LS Oil Pan Gasket (Can reuse factory) - GM (Part#12612350)
    Hooker Transmission Crossmember (Part# 12626HKR )
    Hooker Headers, 1-7/8" long tube, black ceramic coated (Part# 2276-3HKR )
    Hooker Engine Adapter Mounts (Part# 12618HKR
    Anchor Industries Clamshell Motor Mounts (Part# 2292)
    Energy Suspension Motor & Trans Mount Urethane Bushings (Part# 3-1130G)
    Detroit Speed Steering Gearbox ( 600 series ) w/ factory steering linkage

















    Rear of shifter, relative to the convertible trans tunnel bracing. Coupes will not have that brace behind the shifter. It was close, but still clears.









    Header collector to floor pan (driver side)



    Passenger side



    Tony
    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    339
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    Gawdang, love how this is coming together. Really appreciate you taking the time to document what you're using.

    It doesn't look like there's much sidewall bulge with the 345's on the 12" wheels. I was thinking 335's would be pushing it. Nice!
    _______________
    1969 Camaro
    1966 Skylark
    1964 Lemans
    1960 Biscayne
    Steve

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    Been a few weeks, made a lot more progress. Still hoping to complete by Power Tour.

    Built an extension for my PCV oil catch can. The bracket it came with put it too close to the alternator. Billet can is from Elite Engineering, very nice quality.







    Drilled a few holes in the underside of the intake manifold, for MAP sensor, PCV.





    Fully assembled the intake manifold w/ fuel rails and 60# injectors



    Test fit and cut the custom Foose console to fit. It will get a nice head unit with nav screen.



    Started tearing apart the rear seat, to restore the spring frame, narrow it for the mini-tubs, and recover with Houndstooth.





    Here are the two radiator hoses I used. Part numbers shown are Dayco brand, found on ebay. Worked well for the Wegner + Griffin combo. Should work for any LSX setup with all coolant nipples on right side of engine and radiator.



    Painted the front of my Griffin radiator black. I don't like seeing things through the grille, it is distracting and ruins photos.




    Continued...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Built the entire fuel system. Started with the Tanks Inc fuel tank with the clipped corners. Very, very nice quality setup - especially for the price. Bonus, it was powdercoated a similar color as the lips on my wheels. The pump kit and level sending unit come in a bunch of pieces, you have to do some measuring, cutting, and assemble everything. Since this isn't a big-hp build, it was a relatively simple layout. -6 AN feed and return lines, using the C6 Corvette fuel filter/regulator combo. Return happens right at the rear axle, so no chance heating up the fuel while sitting in traffic.

















    Built my own power steering hoses. Nobody makes a kit using black lines and fittings. -6 sized PTFE hose for the pressure side, and -6 AN hose for the low pressure return side. DSE 600 series steering box, I used the two -6 AN adapters that Detroit Speed sells for this box.



    Replaced the plain rubber PCV hoses with braided AN hose.



    Mounted my coil pack brackets on the lower section of the firewall, on both sides. Really nice area down there, with the Hooker headers offering a lot of clearance. I reconfigured the factory truck wiring harnesses to fit inside the brackets, kept everything compact as possible. I built my own spark plug wires using parts from Taylor Thundervolt (10.4mm). Those were a pain in the rear to strip, since they are essentially triple insulated. I'd go with MSD 8.5mm if I were to do it again.









    Continued...

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Houston, TX
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    Spark plug wires and routing:








    Engine bay is completed, except for the custom intake tube I have to build. Then wiring the entire car.





    Finished out the entire rear brake lines. Had to build a couple aluminum brackets, since the ones on my car were missing. I saved $45 in repro brackets, and ended up with some nice aluminum ones instead


    For floorpan:





    For top of 12-bolt axle:





    Used DSE's braided steel flex line kit on top of the axle:





    Used the SUR&R lines, and added stone guard spring for the entire rear lines.











    Here is my remaining list to do, as of a week ago. Already knocked a few of the items out:





    Tony
    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    339
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    It's cool seeing how you fabricate solutions to get things the way you want them.

    Where did you get those 90* fittings for your rear brake lines? And the spring wrap?

    Curious to see how you route the fuel injector harness too
    _______________
    1969 Camaro
    1966 Skylark
    1964 Lemans
    1960 Biscayne
    Steve

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Ma.
    Posts
    4,852
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    Some nice progress! It looks great.
    Wayne
    Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
    Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    23
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    Nice work!

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    21
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    Nineball! Where can i get a console like that? I have been searching everywhere.

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Houston, TX
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    I seemed to have forgotten to update this post with the finished product! I was too busy driving the car for the last two years. To date, the car has been on three Hot Rod Power Tours, one of those a Long-Haul. I've also driven it to Crusin' The Coast. It has about 9K miles on it today. Also, if you have the July 2018 issue of Super Chevy, you might recognize the car on the cover, and in the feature.

    Tony

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    Co-Founder, LS1TECH.com


    Forged Wheel Dealer, Contact me for a quote!
    www.DV8Motoring.com

    My Online Garage: www.fquick.com/NineBall

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    1

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    Thank You for posting this part! I've hated the look on my '67 Camaro tag and now I know what to do!

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    charlotte
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    488
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    some fantastic pictures in there

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Chicago burbs
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    61
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    that intake tho! You're friend had some serious skills, very hard to get something that pretty with minimal warpage to the point that it still seals nicely. I would agree it's the centerpiece of the engine bay.

    I see your rocking a panhard bar also-I'll bet that thing drives amazing. Thanks for posting all the progress and the killer pics.

    1969 442 6.0L LQ9 T56
    Fab9 w/ custom 3 Link conversion
    FAYS2 Watts link
    Thanks to Mark at SC&C for his honesty and passion for the sport, and Ron Sutton for the wealth of knowledge that has helped shape so many of the cars on this site.

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    267
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    Do you still have that Chevelle? Out of curiosity, I'm working on one that looks very similar (but was originally a blue/blue interior car, and has a 502 Ramjet in it) and wondered if it had power locks/windows? If so, could you post picks of the locations of the switches? I'm adding power windows/locks/trunk to the one I'm working on and I'm pretty sure I know where they go, but I'd like to verify. Thanks.



    The Camaro is nice. What is the significance of the logo on the wheel caps?

    Jay


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