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    Results 21 to 26 of 26
    1. #21
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,715
      Country Flag: Bosnia Herzegovina
      Quote Originally Posted by John S View Post
      Ok, so it seems that things are getting narrowed down a bit. It looks like I should concentrate on the front end to start, and more specifically getting the nose air cleaned up.
      Since the Monte has a sealed air box would it be better to leave the airbox intact except for removing the bottom?
      I am thinking that by removing the bottom of the airbox, seaingl up the bottom of the nose section and ducting incoming air into the radiator by blocking off the grill and installing a wider and deeper chin spoiler to direct the air under the nose into the radiator I will increase cooling efficiency and help break up the high pressure under the nose.
      The next step would be to install a set of GNX fender vents with the associated ducting to vent engine bay air out of the engine bay. I did find the complete GNX vent kit at GBody parts.
      My only question on this is whether the GNX fenders are close enough to the Monte fenders to make the installation fairly painless?
      My next step is the possibility of the GNX style fender flares to move air away from the wheels and outwards.
      As far as the hood goes, is there really any advantage to moving the intake air from the front (ram air) to the rear (cowl induction)? The design of the inner hood does allow for a sealed airbox to be configured fairly easily, but in the case of the cowl induction would it be better to leave the inlet open or fabricate a flipper door?
      those fender vent should work great, you have a nice flat spot behind the wheel opening.
      Pick up an air cleaner box would be good too. Theres a guy that has the CF ones on ebay all the time. You'd have to relocate the ignition system too.
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/NASCAR-Carbo...item3cc12d2c54

      Having a hood that opens up 8-10" behind the radiator and an air damn would be good for getting the hot air out.

      A 2-3" suspension drop would do alot for you too.

      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

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    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Orange County, NY
      Posts
      280
      Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
      those fender vent should work great, you have a nice flat spot behind the wheel opening.
      Pick up an air cleaner box would be good too. Theres a guy that has the CF ones on ebay all the time. You'd have to relocate the ignition system too.
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/NASCAR-Carbo...item3cc12d2c54

      Having a hood that opens up 8-10" behind the radiator and an air damn would be good for getting the hot air out.

      A 2-3" suspension drop would do alot for you too.
      Why would I need to relocate the ignition?

      The car is already dropped over 2" and can not go any lower. I have less than 4" of clearance to the frame rails. Extending the air dam is an option I am looking into.

      1986 Monte SS, 427 sbc, Victor E manifold, FAST TB, FAST XFI, T56 6spd, Moser M9 rear 3:70, SC&C G5, Spohn lowers, Pole Position Uppers, Alston Coil Overs, Pirelli all around

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      That airbox sits VERY low over the top of the carb. The NASCAR engines use a tall manifold and spacer which keeps the bottom of the box above the distributor cap. It probably wouldn't clear yours.

      If you are going to vent the hood, be sure the core support is sealed off to the underside of the hood. I've seen those vents "steal" cooling air from the radiator when not properly ducted.

      If youre at 4" to the frame, you're right; you can't go much lower. Lowering the car reduces overall frontal area (as opposed to putting a taller air dam on) as well as improving downforce by keeping more air out from under the car.

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: Canada
      Putting last things first, I've done a fair amount of testing re engine air intakes, often as a result of race team debates on cowl induction Vs. ram air. Depending on the windshield slope, details of the ram system, etc., the former has usually shown only 45-55% as much pressure as the latter. BUT ram air fed through through long, corrugated and convoluted hoses can suffer a lot of pressure drop, not to mention possibly picking up hotter air from ground level or during the trip to the air box.
      Rather than trying to measure the actual pressure at the potential air sources (complicated by varying reference pressure in the cabin, unless you use a correctly-positioned static pressure pick up), it's easiest to use something like a Magnehelic gauge: http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/P...eName=Ordering (10" W.C. is plenty for comparisons, 20 for total ram pressure) to compare any two candidates.

      The higher a test speed you can use the better, but the results should be representative even at highway speeds. One trick I have found very useful for an existing ram air system is to compare the air box pressure at WOT Vs closed throttle at the same speed. If the pressure spikes substantially when the throttle is closed, it indicates excessive pressure drop in the system.

      A couple of other points: Rear spoilers do not universally increase drag. In fact on most cars, some modest height of same (usually ~1-2") can increase downforce and reduce drag (check the rear edge trunk contour on various high-end sedans) At greater heights the drag starts to increase again, but downforce goes up substantially.

      As far as front air dam height, it is usually a matter of how rough the underbody is (very, for 99% of vehicles) and how low the worst bits hang. As a rule of thumb, a dam ~1" lower than the worst lumps is about the best compromise, absent extensive coast-down tests.

      As Ray says, for most cars the turbulent flow under the car means the effective frontal area extends right to the ground, so lowering the car reduces the frontal area and drag.

      Another item worth investigating: Vortex generators (e.g. from aircraft supply houses or: http://www.airtab.com/ ) Similar devices are used on the roof of some Mitsubishi EVOs: http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/cor...004/16E_03.pdf and tested on a race car, we found they had a pronounced effect re 'steering' the air off the roof onto the rear wing.

      One last note. Ecomodder: http://ecomodder.com/ has an astounding array of info on drag reduction.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Orange County, NY
      Posts
      280
      Ok Guys, been busy as all get out at work and have not had a lot of time to get back here. SOme really great information and I appreciate it all. One thing I have learned is that I may have been pre-mature in opening up the ram air vent on the hood without fully thinking it through.
      I had fully intended on fabricating an air box for direct air make up into the intake without any of the "ram air" venting into the engine bay. At this time any air entering the hood intake just fills the engine compartment and I am pretty sure this is causing several issues, most notable some cooling issues at speed.
      Unfortunately play money is going to be a bit tight this year with my Oldest Daughter graduating College (trip to Ca) and my triplets graduating High School, GIRLS ARE EXPENSIVE!!! LOL.
      So my first concern is going to be getting the Ram air finished.
      I'll update as I make progress.

      1986 Monte SS, 427 sbc, Victor E manifold, FAST TB, FAST XFI, T56 6spd, Moser M9 rear 3:70, SC&C G5, Spohn lowers, Pole Position Uppers, Alston Coil Overs, Pirelli all around

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Seattle area
      Posts
      360
      Just use the GNX fenders as a template and then cut to fit.

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