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    Results 21 to 37 of 37
    1. #21
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Clovis, NM
      Posts
      3
      Nice find.... My friend would love to have that car....Anyway..I have been reading posts on here for about 2 years and I have noticed many people using por-15 for the rust protection for the pant.

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      I probably sound like a broken record with this, but for ease of installation a torque arm setup is HARD to beat. You can use the original leaf brackets and axle pads if you want to. If you are cutting the floor anyway, I'd recommend putting weld-in subframe connectors in NOW, that way it's done and you won't have to cut back into the car later.

      And yes, if the clutch is screaming at you, it's trying to tell you something....:D

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      BC, Canada
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: Canada
      Ive decided on torque arm suspension for the rear, havent decided on which on yet. Anyone have one installed on theyre Mustang? or any car for that matter?
      For the front I want some kinda coilovers

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Posts
      163
      Country Flag: United States
      here is the torque bar 3 link I got

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-64-1-2-7...#ht_1030wt_793


      and here is the front that i got

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-66-67-6...#ht_2065wt_702


      all is better quality than I could have ever imagined!!
      Justin Hocking
      67 Mustang Coupe to Fastback swap
      TCI front and rear
      Detroit Mini Tub

      Future coyote

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Posts
      709
      On the clutch front, keep it simple by checking out Mustang Steve's site. He's got the best clutch cable set up out there (I've got one, with the pedal, in my Falcon). It will completely eliminate all the juddering and flexion caused by the the original z-bar crud. I've pounded on the thing pretty good, and it's very nice so far--if you avoid headers, you won't even melt the cable housing...

      Secondarily, if your engine is out, it's usually a good idea to replace the clutch stuff. It doesn't cost much (comparatively speaking), and doing it now can save a ton of trouble down the road.

      For suspension, like others may have mentioned, install weld-in subframe connectors (preferably with something that ties them across the car) before you do stiff sway bars. If you don't do this, you can crack C-pillars and window gaskets, which are not fun to fix.

      Most importantly, you should really just drive the snot out of the car as soon as you can. Find the limits, then improve what strikes you as needing improvement specifically.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      BC, Canada
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by justin51986 View Post
      here is the torque bar 3 link I got

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCI-64-1-2-7...#ht_1030wt_793


      and here is the front that i got

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-66-67-6...#ht_2065wt_702


      all is better quality than I could have ever imagined!!
      I PMed you some questions

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      BC, Canada
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: Canada
      Anyone have a say on what subframe connectors I should buy? I would prefer not to cut anything

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Loretto, TN
      Posts
      18
      I installed tinman's. They hug the floor pans tight. Good Luck
      65 Mustang, 03 cobra engine & drivetrain.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      South Dakota
      Posts
      102
      Country Flag: United States
      I have had nothing but great service from TCI and FAB Quest,
      http://www.fabquest.com/64-70-ford-m...nsion-kit.html

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      BC, Canada
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by 65wildstang View Post
      I installed tinman's. They hug the floor pans tight. Good Luck
      I looked them up and they look great, just wondering how effective they are?
      I mean, theyre pretty big but sit differently than most others

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Posts
      163
      Country Flag: United States
      don't have to cut anything with TCI's subframe connectors, but they are incorporated with the rear 3 link....not sure how they would connect with a stock or different system....sorry I havent had a chance to reply to your P.M. yet.....i will asap
      Justin Hocking
      67 Mustang Coupe to Fastback swap
      TCI front and rear
      Detroit Mini Tub

      Future coyote

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      Central Texas
      Posts
      78
      Country Flag: United States
      I've installed the Tinman's on the bottom of my '67.

      The Tinman subframe connectors require you to cut the back of the stock front frame rail. The subframe connector then slides 6" into the stock frame rail.

      Most of the subframe connectors I've seen are visible when you are about 10-15" from the car. I decided to go with the Tinman units because they don't stand out much and if you did not know any better would think they are original.

      This is not the best picture but you get the idea:

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 67TXStang View Post
      Pretty nice!

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      BC, Canada
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by 67TXStang View Post
      I've installed the Tinman's on the bottom of my '67.

      The Tinman subframe connectors require you to cut the back of the stock front frame rail. The subframe connector then slides 6" into the stock frame rail.

      Most of the subframe connectors I've seen are visible when you are about 10-15" from the car. I decided to go with the Tinman units because they don't stand out much and if you did not know any better would think they are original.

      This is not the best picture but you get the idea:
      Yeah thanks for the pic, I watched the video, theyre priced great too, I think Ill get a pair

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Jamestown, California
      Posts
      21
      I agree, other than fabbing your own, you wont get a better fit than TinMan's. Nice stuff, and you probably can't build your own for less.
      JR
      1965 Ford Mustang

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      BC, Canada
      Posts
      84
      Country Flag: Canada
      Ok so Im looking for a clutch, I know nothing about clutchs except you need to press them to shift gears, anyone know of a website or book I can get to learn about clutches and how to replace them? Also what kind of clutch should I get, its a 289 4 speed. I dont know what sizes or anything to get
      Sorry for the dumb questions :D

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Posts
      164
      Country Flag: Australia
      If it's the factory 4 speed and 289 mated together.
      Go to an Auto parts store and ask them about clutches to fit the combo if it's a factory combo.
      Then get a good strong clutch, what thickness and amount of plates is how you want your foot to feel, and how much power you wanna push through it.
      Factory clutch will probably set you back around 200 for the complete clutch kit.



      You will probably need to get your fly-wheel machined too.
      Once that's done, just bolt it to the flywheel with the plate aligned with something round to shove in the spline, torque it down, then slide your box in.
      Can be done by yourself.
      But it's better with two people.


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