1967 Lemans Project - LS376/480 & 4L80E Build

[craigs73]

cool build you got going the frame looks great

[CruizinKev]

x2 looks great!!

[Pontiacken]

cool build you got going the frame looks great

Thanks Craig!

[Pontiacken]

x2 looks great!!

Thanks Kevin. I checked out your Home Page and when I get a chance I will look into your site some more. Ken

[acegto]

What wheels are you going with?

[willj313]

frame looks good

[CruizinKev]

Thanks Kevin. I checked out your Home Page and when I get a chance I will look into your site some more. Ken

Thanks Ken

[Pontiacken]

What wheels are you going with?

Asa I was thinking of a web style. Something like this:


What do you think? Ken

[acegto]

Nice, They'll lokk good on that car with those big hips.

[Pontiacken]

I was attacked by a bad bug of some kind and basicly lost almost all of October for doing much of anything productive at home or work. But I am finally back at doing at least a little.

New 12:1 steering box from AGR mounted as well as the linkage. I had a set of Baer Tracker tie rod ends (bump steer reduction) and regular style tie rod ends. air ride says there spindles help reduce bump steer so I quess that the amount of usefullness from the Baer Trackers will be minimized. So I have a question for you out there in automotive enthusiast land - Strickly on the aesthetic side which do you like better?

Baer Tracker tie rod end


Regular tie rod end


One on each side for comparison


Kore 3 brakes starting to go on as well. Man they are alot bigger than the '67 factory ones




Almost to the point of mounting the engine and transmission again. Once that is done the body will have to be set again so I can figure out how much pounding needs to be done to the trans tunnel. I will also be able to make up the complete brake and fuel lines as well. Will post more as I go along.

[Pontiacken]

No replies on the tie rod ends and I am so far behind now I am moving on.
I choose the regular style tie rod ends with the billet adjusters from ridetech.








A few little items left and then it will be time for the motor and trans to be reinstalled for final placement. The the job of putting the body back on for trans tunnel modification.

Back to work!

[therobski]

Hey bro it's been a while since we got thru that brutal summer, now we need at least 4-5 feet of rain. The tie ends you chose I think will work well. I don't know if you have looked at my thread " 64 F85 post car" I went the B-body spindle and disk brake up grade, quite involved and I used Professional grade G-body tie rode end I got from NAPA. Question:did you weld your transmission cross member to the frame? Your project is really moving along, looks great and I'm taking notes!

[scottymonte]

Nice build, i really like the wheel choice.
what did you think of the KORE3 fitment. Hope to order my kit with in the next 2 weeks.

[Pontiacken]

Hey bro it's been a while since we got thru that brutal summer, now we need at least 4-5 feet of rain. The tie ends you chose I think will work well. I don't know if you have looked at my thread " 64 F85 post car" I went the B-body spindle and disk brake up grade, quite involved and I used Professional grade G-body tie rode end I got from NAPA. Question:did you weld your transmission cross member to the frame? Your project is really moving along, looks great and I'm taking notes!

Therobski - Rain would be great!!!! I used the spindles from ridetech to ensure that my whole suspension package was going to work well together and if it didn't for some reason I would only have one phone call to make. Darrin at ridetech has been fabulous with help and technical support. I did use Proffessional Grade Raybestos tie rods from Rock Auto and they seem to be a very quality product.
As far as my transmission crossmember goes what I did was a trick that Kevin at V8TV turned me onto and that was to cut the ends of the member off and remove (in my case) remove about 1" from both sides then reweld the ends back on:


Then once I put the engine and transmission on the chassis and made the needed mods to get the engine & trans angle correct I welded in perches for the member to set on:


This is what it looks like with the member setting in:


The plan is to put the engine and trans back in this weekend if time permits and I can make a final decision on how to fasten the member to the perches. I will direct bolt it or use the OEM rubber end caps and clamps. I will just have to wait and see how much room I end up with and the final agle with and with out the rubber ends installed. If you can zoom in on this pic you can see the crossmember setting on the perches with the rubber end caps on:


Thanks for looking and we still will need to find the time to meet up! Ken

[Pontiacken]

Nice build, i really like the wheel choice.
what did you think of the KORE3 fitment. Hope to order my kit with in the next 2 weeks.

Scotty -The only problem I ran into with out of the box fitment with the Kore 3 package was due to my using the aftermarket spindles. I had to shim the calaper bracket to get the rotor centered. Found the washer shims needed at Tractor Supply Co. Tobin at Kore 3 has been a great help with this part of my project. You will not be disappointed!

[therobski]

That looks really good never thought about that approach. This is what I ended up doing for my cross member for the future 200R4. Hope my set up works. Did you bolt or weld the cross member to your perches?

[Pontiacken]

I will bolt it one way or another. Ken

[therobski]

I like the way you got yours set up maybe more sturdy than mine. I am a little concerned about my set up creating a vibration on the road.

[CruizinKev]

nice progress!!

[Pontiacken]

I like the way you got yours set up maybe more sturdy than mine. I am a little concerned about my set up creating a vibration on the road.

That was/is a concerne af mine as well. V8TV when doing this modification bolt the member straight to the perches with no cushion/insulator as well as other that have made similar modes like this. So, I am guessing yours will be OK as well. Ken