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    Results 581 to 600 of 709
    1. #581
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      South Lyon, MI
      Posts
      1,217
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Motorcitydak View Post
      I'm not wanting this car to be mistaken for stock by any means. This design gives it a mean, modified look that we really like.
      Not to worry. Nobody will think it is stock now.



    2. #582
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      Steve, I'm with ya on not wanting to be mistaken for stock. You see some cars built with hundreds to over a thousand hours of bodywork & to the unknowing person, could be a stock body.
      I prefer something that will scare small children as their pretty moms ignore them looking at it.

    3. #583
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      jl I have for sure seen cars like you talk about. No doubt tons of work to get them where they are and unless you known the cars well, its hard to tell they are different. I've always liked to have cars that people understand are special even if they know nothing about cars.

      I have finally figured out how to keep you all updated on my progress, so sit back and enjoy! I'll be having a good bit of progress on this thing in the coming weeks

      After a lot of careful studying of the wire layout Ben did for my car, I got the lines roughed out in 1/4 metal rods. This was actually my second attempt at them. The first was a fail due to not supporting the rods like I did here. I got a much of the sheet metal attached only to realize that my lines got pushed all around and looked horrible.



      The top part of this flare is meant to closely follow the top portion of the quarter panel. My first layout had more of steep angle which did not look right or match the rendering


      Passenger side done to match


      Current progress on the drivers side. I will say that I am very happy with the work that the Harbor Freight english wheel is able to do. I can get a nice gentle curve in these panels very quickly. It has not even smashed one of my fingers into hamburger yet!
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    4. #584
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      I got that HF wheel too, need help rolling my entire pass side quarter panel assembly through it to smooth the shrinking/stretching walnuts I did to the factory metal. I made a long reach planishing hammer that could be hand held. it did ok on small samples, but seemed to do more harm than good on smoothing out my quarter. May try to make different heads for it.
      I'd say the drivers side shapes look pretty good. Just wondering your process here. Is the wire frame & original fenders all staying or is all this to make a final all sheet metal cap over or something in between?
      I made a wood buck template for mine to fit the metal against. But I was a wood worker before a metal worker.
      You are making me want to try harder to get off my lazy butt & get back to work on mine.

    5. #585
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      Well then get to work!! I checked out your build, that is a really cool and creative think you have going there. I wonder which one of us will get some color our car first?!

      My first attempt, I made that long piece of sheet metal that goes front to back over the wheel well in one piece. At 85 inches long and ten high, it is very difficult to work by myself. Second go around I just cut it at the top of the well. That small seam will be easy to blend between two pieces and make my life a lot easier.

      Initially I wanted to remove a lot of the stock quarter. After my first attempt, I had to brace my wires to that metal. With the way it is going now that metal will just have to stay. I've had to let my obsession with making everything as light as possible go slightly and this is one example. Once complete, I want to drill a few holes in the factory quarter and go to town on the cavity with a few cans of Eastwoods inside frame coating. I have already been painting the back sides of the new metal with primer and undercoating as well. Then Ill leave some small holes at the lowest spots to allow condensation out
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    6. #586
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Portland OR
      Posts
      26
      Perhaps consider a cavity wax when you've sealed up that volume and drilled holes, and skip the undercoating. Undercoating tends to be a little porous and traps moisture.

    7. #587
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,489
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by nickcornilsen View Post
      Perhaps consider a cavity wax when you've sealed up that volume and drilled holes, and skip the undercoating. Undercoating tends to be a little porous and traps moisture.
      X2

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    8. #588
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Posts
      113
      Hey steve, very nice build and out of the box thinking. Its nice to know that guys on here support this kind of thing. I have a very similar build myself. Im just a few steps behind you. I found your your thread last week and laughed at how similar are builds are. Im following you closely because you motivate the crap out of me. Keep up the stellar work.

    9. #589
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the heads up on the cavity wax! Looks like a good product for my application, think it will be the way to go

      Welcome to the board speed freak! If we have similar builds, I'm sure we all would like to see it and hear more. Let me know if I can be of any help. You will find lots of knowledge and help on this forum. I just wrapped up for the night, but I will have all the metal on the rear quarters be the end of this weekend. I'll get an update posted soon after
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    10. #590
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      If this helps anyone, this is how I have been making templates to transfer to metal


      As promised, all metal panels are now on the car


      If you look closely, the bottom rear is fully welded and sanded down





      I have the car tilted a lot to allow easy access to weld the seams on the passenger side currently. The last pictures show roughly how the tire will fit into the wheel well at ride height. I think it looks really good there. I will pull them inward slightly when I get a new rear axle made. I currently have 6 inches of wheel spacers on each side. I figure I will use them to fine tune the rear track width. I think for now i will turn down each side about 3/8 and see how that looks, then go from there.

      Also to answer the question that no one is asking, it's 90....90 feet of seams on this thing that need to be welded up and then sanded flat....FML. If anyone has tips or tricks on how to make this process go faster I am all ears. I got about two hours done last night and did maybe 25 feet or so, just tacking once or twice then moving a few inches down the line and bouncing around to all the different panels on the passenger side. I am being very careful with the seam that meets the factory quarter panel
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    11. #591
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States
      The secret to going faster is::::::::: you first need to figure women out. If you do that, you will then be superhuman.
      Seriously though, if you sometimes get to hear the hours some of these guys that do work for Foose or other high end builders spend on metal work, you & me won't feel bad at all about the time we spend..I do like to run back over the spaced out tack welds with a rotary wire brush to clean up & some coarse grinding to knock down the height of the spot welds, which helps penetration of the joining tacks.
      I have seen a method for speed welding with a tig by Chad from Auto rod technologies , which used to post here. But it requires perfect fitment of all joints after tacking & knocking down height of tacks. Takes more skill than I'll likely ever develop.
      So just keep on doing what you're doing.
      Do have a tip for filler over rougher areas that I'll be getting some of to try. SEM carbo fill. Has carbon fiber fillaments, which should help with shadowing effect you can get over welded areas. Don Hutton on this site used it on 2 show winning black paint jobs.
      https://www.google.com/search?source...10.2sWQVmOsAgg

    12. #592
      Join Date
      Aug 2014
      Posts
      435
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice progress. This design looks SO much better than the original "flares." Can't wait to see it out and about.

    13. #593
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      South Lyon, MI
      Posts
      1,217
      Country Flag: United States
      I love this build. It is going to be fantastic when it is complete. It will be a real stand-out in the crowd.

    14. #594
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      jacksonville,fl
      Posts
      970
      Country Flag: United States

    15. #595
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Posts
      6
      I've been following this build for years now and finally decided to join the site so I can comment. I love the box flare idea but my one suggestion would be to make them big/open enough to allow wider wheels and tires. I assume that's probably an 18x11 and a 315 RS2. Kind of an old outdated tire these days. The hot ticket for a big Pro-Touring style SCCA CAM car or optima Ultimate Street car would be something like a 335 BFG Rival S. And the fastest wheel for that would probably be something like an 18x13. So build accordingly if you go that route. I think a big, wide steamroller setup like that would be pretty beneficial on a big car like this.

    16. #596
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      Glad you guys are liking the new design and direction. This route was by no means easy and in the end will have cost several thousand to accomplish but when I saw Ben's design, it was clear this was how the car should look.

      That is a good looking Daytona for sure! I had not seen that before

      Lurch, I am happy to be the reason you joined here and thanks for following along over the years. Happy you like the new flares too! This was one of the cars we used for inspiration and vision
      https://shopgreddy-com.myshopify.com/products/17020620
      However, we liked keeping the top 3-4 inches of the factory lines intact.

      No worries on space for monster steam rollers in the rear, I was fitting 315's back there in a stock wheel well before I pushed them out 6 inches. I feel like I could run those ridiculous Mickey Thompson tires you see on T-Buckets and things! As you said, my car is big and has some extra gravity built into it. It also will carry more weight in the rear with my engine sitting nearly completely behind the fire wall. Also the transfer case hanging off the trans. My rear drive shaft is less that 24 inches IIRC as opposed to 60+ for most any other car. One thing to keep in mind when considering tires however is that wider is not always better. It is very hard if not impossible for a consumer to find this information, but a tire traction dyno graph would be helpful here. It will show how much grip a tire can give with a certain weight on it. There is a limit and area where you will get less traction with a wider tire, you just cannot make it work unless you increase its weight load (ideally with added aero downforce). My 2000lb Lotus has 195s and 225s on it. Folks will go wider as the cars get more extreme but you then need to balance that with bigger and bigger aero packages to push those meats into the road.

      Another issue is simply cost. It is relatively cheap for me to come up with 18x10, 10.5 and some 11 inch wide wheels. A 13 inch wide is going to be custom three piece units at $3000 per set and then add in the number of offerings for a tire that large, it becomes cost limiting for a 20mm tire gain. Not saying it is not necessary or a good idea, just always something to consider.
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    17. #597
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      the dirty mitten
      Posts
      1,212
      Country Flag: United States
      I thought that building the rear flares from steel would be a PITA. I was actually looking forward to the fronts, thinking it would be so much easier.... I decided to switch gears at start tackling the front end. The rears I figure can go to the show in three weeks as is. I will continue welding and sanding if time allows but I need to get the front end into shape sooner rather than later. I even had a plan and materials on hand to get started. My fabric and epoxy should be arriving today

      First came a wood frame to hold my foam in place then to start filling in those big gaps left by the old flares that have been cut off



      Then I placed large sheets into place and have been filling in the gaps behind here. Once those are mostly filled in I have some cans of spray foam to finally give me something to start to shape. Both sides look like this right now



      Once the shaping starts, I am not yet sure on how to go about that. I am thinking that a flap wheel on a grinder will get me to a rough area, then pneumatic liner sander with something like 4 grit paper is next. After that I can start with a DA and then block sand it out.
      Steve
      1968 Dodge Charger All Wheel Drive project Red Bull<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/5cce6da5/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/85dc54c0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>

    18. #598
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Posts
      113
      Im soo stoked i cant wait to see this running around.

    19. #599
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,489
      Country Flag: United States
      I am curious why you are not using the same fabrication technique for the front and rear flares.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    20. #600
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Jefferson City, MO
      Posts
      240
      Fiberglass front fenders, steel rear quarters.

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