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    Results 41 to 60 of 104
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      478
      Vintage air has instructions that come with the compressor that say not to take it past 90 from straight up and they site lubrication as the issue. Also, I bet you have a bunch of oil run out of your compressor since its been turned up like that. You can get it at the parts store called PAG 46 refrigerant oil for R134A. You need to make sure all the oil is out by rotating the comprssor and draining repeatedly until its all out. I pretty sure VA told me to pour in exactly 3.4 oz. of the oil. That is for the mini compressor like you have.

      Alex Godsey
      Somerset, KY
      Pro Touring 67 GTO
      461 Pontiac Power


    2. #42
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      St. Pete FL
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      He is correct that the "spoiler" stayed the same & that material changed from metal to plastic for the apron / valance area..... Now in doing so they also changed the look of it ever so slightly as they closed off the top part. Problem is the new plastic ones all cracked the 1st time you came too close to a parking curb & were fixed by Pontiac under warranty & replaced with the metal ones. Very few cars survived all the way through with their original plastic front valance... In your renderings it looks more like the later plastic style which is why I brought up the question. I am actually add the later 72-73 style to my other 70 TA LS1 I am doing. The 1st white car pic is mine & all original. Here you can see the differences that I'm talking about:










      HELP!!!
      1973 TA 4 spd #'s match red/white = STOLEN
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...55#post1106255

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gearbanger View Post
      Vintage air has instructions that come with the compressor that say not to take it past 90 from straight up and they site lubrication as the issue. Also, I bet you have a bunch of oil run out of your compressor since its been turned up like that. You can get it at the parts store called PAG 46 refrigerant oil for R134A. You need to make sure all the oil is out by rotating the comprssor and draining repeatedly until its all out. I pretty sure VA told me to pour in exactly 3.4 oz. of the oil. That is for the mini compressor like you have.
      Ok. I did some digging and the VA instructions reference a Sanden service guide that says to keep the oil fill plug up between 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and the guide shows a schematic of the SD508 compressor with the oil fill and the S/D ports on the same general plane. The same guide also references the 7176 model of SD7B10 in the affected model list. I'm not sure there's a specific oil fill plug on the SD7B10 to keep up. Just the two ports. Not clear if they're using a port as the fill.

      I'll contact them Monday to get it cleared up.

      Kevin

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sydney, Australia
      Posts
      1,798
      Country Flag: Australia
      If you want to use the plastic style valance panel, the f'glass repros still need some work on how they mount (same as the original problem). Apparently when these were mounted, there is some twist or pre-load placed into the panel which is why they break easy. A guy on another board I post on told how he carefully reworked the mounting points and it worked fine for him.
      Personal choice thing I suppose...I'm sticking wit hthe metal one that my 71 came with...and I prefer the metal panel look anyway.
      Regards,
      Leigh

      Sydney, Australia
      1971 Firebird 455

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,073
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 4mul8ion View Post
      Well, I was thinking that Delta P across the compressor shouldn't care about whether or not the ports are up or down. But now that you've raised the question, I'm not so sure. Maybe there's a lubrication issue. I was looking through the instructions from March and didn't see anything specific in their instructions or tips from their website about it so I jumped on Sanden's website to see. On the 7176 compressor spec page, they always show the ports mounted up in the 12 o'clock but don't specifically mention it as a requirement. I'll call Sanden to find out for sure. Thanks for the tip.

      Kevin
      Please let me know what you find out... we installed mine at 12 o'clock but I'd love to flip it over if there's no lubrication issues!

      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      478
      Dude, your engine looks great.
      Alex Godsey
      Somerset, KY
      Pro Touring 67 GTO
      461 Pontiac Power

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Hackettstown, NJ
      Posts
      1,026
      not sure what this issue is, but why not change the rear plate to a rear mount vs the top mount shown?

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by OLDFLM View Post
      Please let me know what you find out... we installed mine at 12 o'clock but I'd love to flip it over if there's no lubrication issues!

      Will do. I contacted them on Saturday but haven't heard back yet. I'll follow up again with them tomorrow.

      Kevin

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,073
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Kevin! MUCH appreciated!
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      Quick update. I've been in touch with a very helpful representative from Sanden Technical support. Learning quite a bit and not sure I have a complete understanding of it just yet. I've always wanted to learn how these compressors worked.

      Something I've found that explains the compressor internals. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-DBEYJhFLg

      Takid455
      not sure what this issue is, but why not change the rear plate to a rear mount vs the top mount shown?
      Basically, we're trying to flip the a/c lines down against the recommendations of the a/c compressor installation guidelines. The question is what does doing that do to the lubrication of the compressor internals. Changing out the rear plate or clocking the rear plate to tip the lines down can't be done as there is a specific oil flow port location that has to be in a certain spot and to error proof the assembly, the mounting bolt pattern is asymmetric so the whole compressor has to be clocked as an entire assembly.

      Kevin

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      N.J.
      Posts
      674
      Country Flag: United States
      Vintage Air recommends the same position.
      Here is the sheet from va.
      Your car is awesome.

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,073
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 4mul8ion View Post
      Quick update. I've been in touch with a very helpful representative from Sanden Technical support. Learning quite a bit and not sure I have a complete understanding of it just yet. I've always wanted to learn how these compressors worked.

      Something I've found that explains the compressor internals. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-DBEYJhFLg



      Basically, we're trying to flip the a/c lines down against the recommendations of the a/c compressor installation guidelines. The question is what does doing that do to the lubrication of the compressor internals. Changing out the rear plate or clocking the rear plate to tip the lines down can't be done as there is a specific oil flow port location that has to be in a certain spot and to error proof the assembly, the mounting bolt pattern is asymmetric so the whole compressor has to be clocked as an entire assembly.

      Kevin
      Thanks for checking into it Kevin!! Now I just need to figure out how to make the hoses coming out of the top to look better! LOL Thoughts/ideas?
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      478
      I have a pair of tube fittings that you need for that. I was not able to use them on my setup. They attach to the compressor and loop toward the water pump and underneath the compressor and have male threads that would point the lines toward the fender. I'll post up a pic as soon as I can.
      Alex Godsey
      Somerset, KY
      Pro Touring 67 GTO
      461 Pontiac Power

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      478

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by OLDFLM View Post
      Thanks for checking into it Kevin!! Now I just need to figure out how to make the hoses coming out of the top to look better! LOL Thoughts/ideas?
      You're quite welcome, Ty. Thank you for your service.

      The main problem with running the compressor upside down is the lubrication of the center pivot ball and gear that the wobble plate rides on. Apparently, the oil flow tube, when placed in the 9 to 3 position keeps the oil circulation ratio in the range specified for maximum durability in that area. When the compressor is upside down, the ratio to that area drops. Why that is I don't quite understand. Also causing problems when upside down, oil runs back into the compressor head area and causes problems.

      So it may work upside down but there really is no good reason, besides looks, to do it.

      March sells something that looks ok for the 7176 style compressor but not the 508 like you have.


      I'm thinking something like it for the 7176 compressor but send the lines horizontal off of the ports towards the fender. Or keep it simple and bend some lines like what Alex has done.

      Kevin

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      So-Cal * Corona
      Posts
      81
      Sweet Project , Nice Bird
      John
      71' Nova

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      1,073
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 4mul8ion View Post
      You're quite welcome, Ty. Thank you for your service.

      The main problem with running the compressor upside down is the lubrication of the center pivot ball and gear that the wobble plate rides on. Apparently, the oil flow tube, when placed in the 9 to 3 position keeps the oil circulation ratio in the range specified for maximum durability in that area. When the compressor is upside down, the ratio to that area drops. Why that is I don't quite understand. Also causing problems when upside down, oil runs back into the compressor head area and causes problems.

      So it may work upside down but there really is no good reason, besides looks, to do it.

      March sells something that looks ok for the 7176 style compressor but not the 508 like you have.


      I'm thinking something like it for the 7176 compressor but send the lines horizontal off of the ports towards the fender. Or keep it simple and bend some lines like what Alex has done.

      Kevin
      You'd think someone would make something similar for the larger compressors like mine? Alex's are for the smaller pump as well. Wonder who I could contact to have something made similar for my "larger unit"?
      SMSgt Ty Ingle, USAF
      "CF71" - Freedom Bird
      Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR Performance, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      478
      http://www.vintageair.com/catalog11/pg71wc.pdf

      Check out this page on vintage air website. They can make you about whatever you want if you can take a brake line or a stiff wire or something and make a pattern of what you want and tell them what ends you need, they can dod it. Pretty reasonable too for custom stuff.

      I had a custom aluminum line made for my setup for about $30.
      Alex Godsey
      Somerset, KY
      Pro Touring 67 GTO
      461 Pontiac Power

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Jun 2008
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      6
      Awesome car How much weight do you save with the aluminium engine comparede to a stock all iron engine?
      79' Trans Am Tenth Anniversary Edition

    20. #60
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Portland, OR
      Posts
      127
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TekkarEdorf View Post
      Awesome car How much weight do you save with the aluminium engine comparede to a stock all iron engine?
      Thanks. The all iron Pontiac 455 weighs in at about 650 pounds fully assembled. I'm figuring the all aluminum engine, conservatively, will save about 100 pounds fully assembled. Hopefully, more.

      Kevin

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