Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
    Results 41 to 42 of 42
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      Did that, and I even took the air horn off and checked the float measurements. They were off from the specs in the Edelbrock manual so I adjusted them. I put it back on and nothing really changed. So I looked at setting the idle mixture and followed the directions. I got it to idle at 1000 with the vacuum advance disconnected and a vacuum gauge hooked up to the carb. As soon as I hooked the vacuum advance back up, the rpm's shot up. So I think the weights need to be changed.

      Either way, I got it down to 1000 with the vacuum advance hooked up, but it still runs rough. I made an appointment next week for a local carb shop to check it out and adjust it. Hopefully they can work some magic on it.

      Also, I noticed that when I rev it, as the rpms come back down, they hang for a second or two at 1500 before finally dropping to 1000. I could have sworn that was an indication of a vacuum leak, but I called Comp Cams and the guy said that means the carb needs to be tuned.
      Matt

      69 Nova - 357, TKO600, Tru Turn, some other stuff, awaiting LS1 swap
      71 Duster - all stock, slant 6, automatic. awaiting HEMI/T56 swap

    2. #42
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Ft. Worth, TX
      Posts
      419

      Rebuilding my engine!

      It sounds like you have te vacuum advance line hooked up to the wrong vacuum port on the carb. The vacuum advance should not be getting vacuum at idle only at part throttle. Switch the vacuum advance line to the other port on the carb and it will idle lower. It has too much advance right now.



    Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com