Convertible Top Frame with Mini-Tubs

[esenior]

Not sure if this has been asked already or not (search didn't find anything). I've got a 69 Camaro Convertible that has been mini-tubbed and the arm on the convertible top frame is hitting the tub (and preventing it from going down all the way). I've heard about someone making arms that will clear the mini-tubs, but not sure if anyone is still making them or where to get them. Before I start modifying what I have, does anyone know of someone already making these? Thanks....Eric

[67zo6Camaro]

Im not sure about the arms...but I do know most builders just make a slight depression downward on the wheel well for clearance.

[67 ls1 vert]

Hey Eric... I have a custom set for my car. Maybe we can make a set from mine for your car???

[chops101]

Prodigy has them

[67 ls1 vert]

I got the last set from frank last year.

[67zo6Camaro]

I did not know about these...Do you have any pictures?

thanks
Brett

I got the last set from frank last year.

[jeeper90]

I also have a 67 convertible and have the DSE tubbs sitting in the garage. any information would be great to solve the problem before it becomes a problem. What axle width are you using for the tubbed rearend?

Thanks

Chris

[rohrt]

I restored my car with new 1/4 and inner fender wells. I had top rails all on and couldn't get the top to sit down all the way. I found I needed to pound the pinch weld down flate. This was how it was done at the factory, I just didn't catch the reasone for it at the time. It was a pain in the but with the top rails already on. Not sure why mini-tubs would be any different. Should be the same location for the pinch weld.

[chops101]

Stock tubs contour off and give relief to the top frame arm. Mini tubs extend further into the trunk and the contour extends further, which causes the arm to hit the top of the tubs even with the pinch weld flat.

[jeeper90]

I bought the DSE full tubs, after seeing this post I call DSE last Friday and they reassured me it was the same as factory. Bye the way, my pinch welds are flattened out from the factory.

Chris
In the process of building a 67 convertible.

[chops101]

You're in for a shock then.

[Gold67conv]

You're in for a shock then.

Hi all, has anyone solved this problem? I've heard that Prodigy Customs has modified conv top arms, that have a bend in them. I'd rather not notch out the tubs. I have put a call into them, to see if they have that part.

I have a 67 Camaro convertible. With my top, I can just about push the top down into the retainer clips. It probably only needs 1-2" of clearance.

thanks.

[digitalman2112]

Did you ever find a solution? I'm planning a mini-tub on my convertible, and want to know how to solve it.

[esenior]

I've got the arms that 67 ls1 vert got from Prodigy. I'm going to have another set made. If others are interested, and as long as Frank doesn't have a problem with us doing it, I can have more than 1 set made. Now I just need to find a shop that can replicate them!

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

I realize my situation is different than most on this site since my car is a pro street tubbed car. BUt it may translate to a Pro Touring car also. Since my wheel wells were typical 1st gen rust spots and I was back halfing my car we moved the wellbase back about three inches so the top would open all the way. What we did was open the top completely after we cut out the stock wheel wells. Located the tubs to clear the top. Then made the rear frame rails and mounted the rear end accordingly. Worked out fine, sort of. We used a three piece patch kit since in the early 90's that's all that was really available. Didn't go too well. Not happy with teh shape of the wjheel well. So I plan to use a quarter skin to reshape the wheel openings. You can hardly tell the wheelbase was stretched. Just a thought for anyone with a vert who has to back half thier car.

[Sowersby]

Frank is a dead end on these arms. Took Frank 3 weeks to reply to my calls and e-mails. I agreed to his (over the top price) $189 and gave him my card info. Six weeks later no parts, no charge to my card and no return of call or e-mail. Over two months work stopage on my top. What a team member, must have enough money to blow people off. How did it work out making a copy set and can you help a brother out with a set?

[colin204]

I got the last set from frank last year.

Bringing back an old thread. Hoping someone might have some pictures of the modified arms.

I've got the arms that 67 ls1 vert got from Prodigy. I'm going to have another set made. If others are interested, and as long as Frank doesn't have a problem with us doing it, I can have more than 1 set made. Now I just need to find a shop that can replicate them!

did you ever get a copy of these arms made or a solution to modify?

[esenior]

First off, my apologies....I haven't been on PT much these days (work is crazy). I did have a couple extra sets made and will post up more information this weekend including some pics.

----Eric

[colin204]

First off, my apologies....I haven't been on PT much these days (work is crazy). I did have a couple extra sets made and will post up more information this weekend including some pics.

----Eric

Thanks Eric, any info and pics you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

[esenior]

I only have 3 sets left, but I need to keep 1 for a 68 ragtop project I currently have in storage, so only 2 sets are available. I'll offer these up first to the people that already PM'd me here, but if more people need them, I can see about having additional copies made.

The copies cost me around $75 each and since they were copies of the Prodigy arms, it wouldn't be right right to try and profit on someone else's design. Just trying to break even and have been offering them for $90 shipped to a US address. Note that if I have to have more made, I can't guarantee the same cost.

Note that I've sold two sets here on PT.com. One person said that he had problems (said the arms bent when he cycled the top). I'm not providing any warranty with these, but I will say that I have them on my car (69) as well as my son's car (67). We've cycled the tops numerous times and have had zero problems. I suspect that this particular user may have had his top frame out of alignment. Not going to call anyone out, but perhaps he'll respond with his experience.

Here's a picture of a set of the replacement arms:



On my son’s car, we used a nylon washer between the arm and the frame and secured it with a button head bolt and a lock washer (left it loose enough so it wouldn’t bind). For my car, I found a nice shoulder bolt that worked much better. I bought some extra hardware and will include the bolts and washers. You’ll need to tap the frame for the 3/8-16 bolt. I don’t recall if I had to drill out the hole at all.


Here are 5 pics are of the arms as the top is going up (1 is barely up and 5 is all the way up).