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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS_Customs View Post
    Had to go back an look myself once you mentioned it, check out the CAD drawings in post 38. You can see some of the axle side mounts in the more recent pictures too.



    Robert
    Thanks Robert. I don't know how I missed that!

    So it looks like there will be a panhard rod.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her


  2. #82
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    Oct 2011
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    Amazing fabrication skills

  3. #83
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    Sorry for late reply, but I didn't see that my thread had new posts...

    Anyway, thanks for all comments! That really keeps the motivation on top!

    I'm working as fast as I can, but I'm still not finished with the body work around the rear wheels. There's not really much to take photos at right now. I doubt I'm finished before the snow comes, but atleast that's my goal...

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    Good progress. I may have missed this, so I apologize in advance, but how is the axle located laterally? Is there a panhard rod or a watts?

    Andrew
    Quote Originally Posted by RS_Customs View Post
    Had to go back an look myself once you mentioned it, check out the CAD drawings in post 38. You can see some of the axle side mounts in the more recent pictures too.

    Robert
    Why I went for a panhard is because it's a simple construction and it's easy to make quick adjustments once the car is running.
    I won't have more than appr. +-1" suspension movement (allthough the stroke will be longer) so the lateral movement will be so little that we're talking about margins of error.
    I first planned for a mumford-link actually. I think I would be the only one in the world with that setup in a pro-touring car, haha. The mumford would also be better since it would be possible to tuck it up above the venturi that I'll build later. The panhard will be located right into the air stream unfortunately, but atleast I went for a aeroshaped profile.

    Hmmm, I need to look one more time at the mumford. Perhaps it's possible after all...

    Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
    Amazing fabrication skills
    Thanks!
    I'm not sure about my fab skills - there are lots of other project threads where the welds look much better than mine. I would say my CAD skills is better than average, but after all I'm just a happy guy who happens to be friend with a guy with a laser...
    Or I'm just a little shy to admit my skills...

  4. #84
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    Some updates!

    The body was tacked together a couple of days before christmas. There's still some welding to do, but all the panels are there now. Welding will be finished when the body is back on the rotisserie during summer 2012 (wish I could say spring, but I'm trying to be realistic...)


    Actually had this as background on my phone, but I had to replace it with something else... it was too depressing to see.


    I made some of the panels myself since I wanted lower the floor slightly.


    And parts that were too hard to fab...


    ...was repaired instead.


    The rear shock mount was also fabbed


    It's supposed to look like this when finished. That way it's easy to change bump/droop, try other damper-lengths and different ride heights without having to cut up the body again.


    From the inside. The lowest horizontal tube isn't welded yet. It's supposed to be horizontal, not angled.


    From the rear window.
    Thinking of keeping the paint theme, just add a couple of layers of clear coat, haha.


    This was a great moment for me! First area of the body that was covered in primer! The body will be sand blasted when everything is finished, but I'm priming all areas that I guess the sand guy won't reach.


    the quarter panel was tacked to the body. Just have to make a new wheel housing and then it's finished.


    I found four unused Penske 8100 dampers on the brittish e-bay. They were so cheap that I couldn't resist them. My original plan was to go for Öhlins coil overs (because I'm Swedish... and they're good...), but the penskes was just too cheap. They're are shimmed for a Lister Storm so I think they're OK out of the box. But I'm still gonna reshim them after the car has been finished and seen some track time.


    I like CAD...


  5. #85
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    Here's my brake setup that I'm working on too. I need power brakes since the car will be to heavy for manual street braking (calculation 2400-2500 lbs or so when finished). It's not finished yet. I need to get a balance bar before I can make the final adjustments on it.


    2012 is about the front suspension though... I have to use the stock frame due to street regulations over here. 70% of the stock frame has to be left... That still leave 30% to play with!


    Since the car will be low, I'm chasing every millimeter in ground clearance. Since the stock bushings leaves appr. 1" clearance between frame and body. Lower bushings saved 1/2" or so, but I wanted to save that last inch too!
    After a little trial and error I found where the interference was. It was cut away, and it will be welded in again. Just have to get the frame sand blasted first.
    Mental note: Frame is still not modified... I'm putting back the stock metal on the frame. Still have 30% to play with, haha!


    Really tight fit!


    So this is what I plan to keep of the stock subframe... The round tube in the middle is a reference to where the engine crank is located.


    After I decided what to keep from the subframe, I started to find the constraints for designing the front geometry. On the picture, the caliper is being pushed out as far as possible towards the rim. My calipers are mega wide (wilwood prolite/P6R) so this is really important to minimize the scrub.


    10" wide front wheel, with 1" outer rim and 9" inner still gave a little more than 1 1/8" in scrub. I hoped for 1/2" but 1 1/8" is better than stock at least... The black lines are control arm movement during max suspension


    quick base measurements of a front upright. My project isn't really made for US viewers - everything is in millimeters...


    Starting with the suspension design...


    Just a picture... the subframe is quite high and it'll be hard to locate the control arms without interference during suspension movement.


    Before starting with the suspension design, I had to estimate the upper mount of the upright due to the large subframe profile...

    With lower arm height decided, I could throw in the rack in the assembly too. I placed it on the same height as the lower control arm. That way it's easy to control bump steer.


    Phew... long update, hope you like it. Now I'm going back to my CAD computer to finalize the geometry.

  6. #86
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    Love this build and I love that it is a 74 like mine. So much inspiration and it is the best looking year Firebird built in my eyes. I wonder how much it would cost to get mine sent to Sweden so you could replicate your mods on my car.
    Stephen

  7. #87
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    upon completion this car should be taken to sema show and hopefully entered in the optima batteries ultimate street car invitational it would be quite the contender!

  8. #88
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    Nov 2011
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    Just subscribed - this thread is awesome!
    Very impressive work.
    Eric
    1969/72 Corvette Coupe - https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...uring-Corvette
    454 Block / Heads For Sale - https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ads-SD-LA-Area
    Corvette Parts & Service:. www.vansteel.com

  9. #89
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    Guys, thanks for the comments! It keeps up my motivation

    Realised I forgot the last picture in the post;

    "With lower arm height decided, I could throw in the rack in the assembly too. I placed it on the same height as the lower control arm. That way it's easy to control bump steer. "

    And I just gotta post some more picts of the coil overs too! I have one of them on my desktop at work, together with one of the wilwood calipers.




    Quote Originally Posted by pedro gonzalez View Post
    upon completion this car should be taken to sema show and hopefully entered in the optima batteries ultimate street car invitational it would be quite the contender!
    Sema is mentioned in my thread? Cool!
    The Pontiac will probably not fit there - I won't be able to afford a proper paint job. And the competition has probably stepped up a bit year 2043 (when it's finished...) LOL

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by srh3trinity View Post
    Love this build and I love that it is a 74 like mine. So much inspiration and it is the best looking year Firebird built in my eyes. I wonder how much it would cost to get mine sent to Sweden so you could replicate your mods on my car.
    Thanks!
    No, no NO!!!!! Don't ship it to Sweden. I have a hard time to find time to finish one build, haha.

    But if you're really nice, I can supply you with a DIY-Swedish-Pontiac-kit

    (welding experience is required)

  11. #91
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    I don't know how I missed this thread, but...WOW!!!! Great work!
    Joe Hinds

  12. #92
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    Anders,

    I am not sure why you say that your car will be too heavy for manual brakes. My GTO is about 4000 pounds with me driving and I have manual brakes. I have C6Z06 brakes in the front, C4 in the rear and a 15/16" bore MC. Keep up the good work.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  13. #93
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    very nice.

    One issue with mounting the rack at the same level as the LCA is the physical interference to get good ackermann. Obviously that depends on wheel base and steering arms. But it is something to consider. And you would see all this in CAD.

  14. #94
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    Andrew; I have actually had your GTO in mind when I planned my project. But I have also tried several manual master cylinders on my Firebird without success (15/16", 1", 1 1/16"). They all have either been too long travel or too much effort for me. I think it's more personal opinion rather than what theoretical works. I prefer brake pedals with very short stroke (ridiculously short actually) and light effort to press it down. Same thing as I prefer power steering over manual steering. I think it's hard to stay focused during track days if you have to struggle with heavy brakes and steering...
    I used to have a hydroboost but now I'm switching to electric power steering so the hydraulic pump has to go. Therefore I'm going with a standard vacuum booster together with a small electric pump.

    Bryce; Yeah, I know. Ackermann is not high priority since it's not that important during track driving. You usually have most of the weight on the outer wheel anyway.
    However, I'm going to mount the rack so it's easy to move forward/backward to achieve some ackermann if I need. It's hard to get the exact right ackermann without real world tests, so it's better ju make it adjustable and do some trial and error when the car is done. I won't start with zero ackermann, just haven't really come that far yet.

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    Andrew; I have actually had your GTO in mind when I planned my project. But I have also tried several manual master cylinders on my Firebird without success (15/16", 1", 1 1/16"). They all have either been too long travel or too much effort for me. I think it's more personal opinion rather than what theoretical works. I prefer brake pedals with very short stroke (ridiculously short actually) and light effort to press it down. Same thing as I prefer power steering over manual steering. I think it's hard to stay focused during track days if you have to struggle with heavy brakes and steering...
    I used to have a hydroboost but now I'm switching to electric power steering so the hydraulic pump has to go. Therefore I'm going with a standard vacuum booster together with a small electric pump.
    ......
    You are right about brake feel being a matter of preference. I actually prefer the longer pedal travel because I feel that it gives me greater control and feel. Minor movements of my foot allow for slight changes in the pressure at the caliper, which for me translates into greater control, especially at the limit. There have been several instances where I my brakes have locked up and with a little modulation of my foot I was able to maintain traction. With a booster and a large bore MC, the brake pedal to me feels more like an on/off switch. I am not saying one way is better than the other, like you said, personal preference.

    I actually prefer my clutch pedal to have the same feel, longer pedal travel and easier effort, whereas many other prefer short travel and more of a binary feel.

    Carry on, I love this build!

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    You are right about brake feel being a matter of preference....
    Exactly. And it's always easier to include the vacuum booster in the project from start, than adding it later. It's easy to remove it later if I want manual brakes.

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    Carry on, I love this build!
    Thanks!

  17. #97
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    Help me decide what gas cap I should go with... I really can't make up my mind.
    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...532#post892532

  18. #98
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    I would be more interested in knowing a little more about the EFI system that you had for the your Pontiac engine. Is that MegaSquirt?


    New Project: 1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt

    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  19. #99
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    If you don't mind cutting on a trunk lid, I've always thought a deck lid style filler would be nice - centred towards the front of the trunk.
    you have to construct the mount and drip tray for the filler in the trunk, cut a circle out of the trunk lid and slightly dimple the skin in towards the fillercap/drip tray underneath. Mount a closed cell foam seal o nthe edge of the drip tray to seal to the bottom of the trunk lid.

    I'd probably use this style filler with the flip cap.
    Regards,
    Leigh

    Sydney, Australia
    1971 Firebird 455

    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

  20. #100
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    Nov 2011
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    beautiful machine work. I like this build, keep up the quality work.

    oh and your tire pressure looked a little low on one of those last pics

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