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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Northern California
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    looks good Rip, wait, I thought you just finished that car....LOL j/k

    Vince

    MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε

    https://www.pro-touring.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4&dateline=1323422564
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  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    122

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    Wow, this car is amazing.

    I see that you've got similar problems to me (I live in Australia) in that we don't have quite the same freedoms to modify our cars like our American friends do.
    Matt Barr.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Sweden
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrQuick View Post
    looks good Rip, wait, I thought you just finished that car....LOL j/k

    Vince
    There is no such thing as a finished car! ;)



    Quote Originally Posted by Bad Bird View Post
    Wow, this car is amazing.

    I see that you've got similar problems to me (I live in Australia) in that we don't have quite the same freedoms to modify our cars like our American friends do.
    Yeah, this was actually the reason that I tore it down again. The car had been too modified to pass the inspection, but still too little modified to get a partly new ID. It'll be registered as a "modified vehicle" when I'm finished which means that I won't have to build it back to stock everytime I have to go through inspection...

    BTW, anyone know where I can find a M20x1.5 left threaded die?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Dillsboro IN
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    250
    Country Flag: United States

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    Awesome! Just bought my wife a '74 Firebird, I will definitely be subscribing to this thread! Good stuff Ripper!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    san diego
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    There is no such thing as a finished car! ;)




    Yeah, this was actually the reason that I tore it down again. The car had been too modified to pass the inspection, but still too little modified to get a partly new ID. It'll be registered as a "modified vehicle" when I'm finished which means that I won't have to build it back to stock everytime I have to go through inspection...

    BTW, anyone know where I can find a M20x1.5 left threaded die?

    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...44470&PMT4NO=0

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Ma.
    Posts
    4,978
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    Nice progress and a great project.
    Wayne
    Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
    Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Birmingham, AL
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    3,356
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    Are you running stock tubs? What is the biggest tire you can fit in a '74?
    Stephen

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sweden
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    880
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    Yes, the tubs are stock.

    It's a little hard to say yet, since I don't have any suspension in it...
    A 18x10,5" wheel with 295 30 18 tire is no problem to fit though.



    There is more space than the camera shows - about an inch or so between tub and wheel.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    west michigan
    Posts
    513
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    very cool project. I love that you are fabricating alot of your own parts. That's one of my favorite parts of the hobby.
    Chad Read

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    30

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    I will have to build a second gen someday. My favorite next to the g-body. Awesome ride!
    86 Regal "Big Red" Iron LS2 t-56 8.8 diff with a carb (FOR SALE https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=68866 )

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sweden
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    In order to get the mounting points in the correct position, I built a simple fixture that was mounted on the car. As the only mount point used in the new rear suspension will be the front leaf spring mountings, I started from them.


    Above: The fixture was built in standard steel profiles. Although thery're aren't ultra stiff, it will be enough for what it will be used to for.

    Below: Once again it is wonderful that I decided to build the rotisserie! It's nice to easily turn up the base and start working. Actually it was a must to build it; welding upside down is hard to get a good result with.


    Below: Fixtures for the third link mounting (left), and the diff (right). The details was made for easy removal until it's time for welding them in the bigger fixture.


    Below: Add lightness to your build... Do not despise the details! Front diff mounts are M12, and needs to be fairly stable. Instead of making them in one solid piece, I started from 38 1.5 mm tube and a couple of inserts which were pressed into the tube and then welded.


    Below: Front diff mounting points


    Below: If you don't have a 5/8 "drill bit (were in the metric system) may be trying to get to the holes in another way. I ordered a 5 / 8 "drill from e-bay, but it disappeared somewhere on its way to Sweden. Since I had time to wait, the holes were drilled to 15.5 mm and then the brotched (?) to 15.86 mm (which is appr. 5/8").


    Below: Finished Welding the third link tower.


    Below: And the tunnel for the link. Some of the metal will be cut off after it is installed in the body.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Rockford, MN
    Posts
    278

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    Excellent work! I'm anxious to watch your progress!


    1969 Firebird, Black, Parchment Arizen interior, Poncho 383 (4" crank), Kauffman heads, TKO600, Moser 12 bolt, Wilwoods, DSE, Speed Tech, Koni, Hotchkis, GW, 18" TTI's, VA Gen IV, etc.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hackettstown, NJ
    Posts
    1,006

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    Your car and ideas inspire many ideas of others. I love you creativity and engineering through the original build and the current build. keep up the great work.

    do you have your own CNC machine or do you machine your parts by hand?

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Sweden
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    Quote Originally Posted by Takid455 View Post
    do you have your own CNC machine or do you machine your parts by hand?
    I machine all my parts by hand, except for the wheel nuts that a friend with a NC-lathe did for me. I would love to do more CNC-parts (brake bells, uprights, suspension mounts etc) but it doesn't fit the budget.


    Front differential mount is welded in. When it was bolted to the fixture, I realised that I would have to make a new trans tunnel. The body will be low (lowest point will be 3,5") and the rear suspension is sitting high up in the body. This means that the diff actually sits higher than the gearbox so the new trans tunnel will actually lean forward (higher at the diff, than the gearbox) a couple of inches... I thought it would be possible to build the trans tunnel with the body in the rotisserie, but realised that it's necessary to test fit the engine and trans before welding a new tunnel...


    Things in the body. Not welded though...


    Yes, I know that the floor is looking like a patchwork... The easiest thing would probably be to cut the entire floor and start with new sheet metal. I can't do this though since I have to keep certain parts of the body stock to pass the governemental inspection and keep the title of the car.

    The neon yellow paint in the pictures is used for marking things that isn't finished (i.e. grinding down welds, welding small holes). It's alot easier to find unfinished things when you are standing there with the grinder if they're highlighted in some way.


    Picture from below.



    What do you call this part in english? Translating it from swedish would be "hat shelf"...
    Anyway, it's in the way and it's almost impossible to weld the suspension parts behind it. I also want the space between the luggage compartment and the interior to be separated (not like swiss-cheese-separated)...



    ...So it was cut out. (and will be replaced later)...



    ...And since it weights almost 11 lbs, I'll probably replace it with aluminum instead.



    The body is also seam welded between the suspension points to add a little stiffness.


    And here's the current status!

    Mods so far are; raised back seat floor, raised floor where the mufflers are placed, front mounts for three link suspension and the diff, partly seam welded and a lot of rust fixing...
    Still have to do suspension mounting points and panhard mount.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    san diego
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    5,102
    Country Flag: United States

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    San Gabriel Valley CA
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    148
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    Still cant wait to see it sitting on those BBS wheels. Great progress!

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
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    2,266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post



    What do you call this part in english? Translating it from swedish would be "hat shelf"...
    Your translation is close. Here in North America we generally refer to it as a parcel shelf.

    Ken
    If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
    My other car is a Vega.

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sweden
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    880
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    Long time since I updated here. I wish I could say that made great progress, but it takes alot of time...

    During the fall and early winter, I worked with modifying the trans tunnel and some other steel;

    I made a stand for the drive train so it had correct height in relation to the body.


    Then, the body was taken down from the rotisserie so I could mock the trans up.


    The drive train is offseted appr. 2" to the right and moved back about 10" (or was it 8"... don't remember right now). Mostly because I wanted to leave the space around the gas pedal untouched, but it also helps weight distribution... which is good of course! :D


    Another picture of the same thing.


    A new reinforcement plate was made...


    ...Since the old one was too small to fit the trans


    The new position of the shifter will fit me quite good. Always felt t sat a little bitt to far away.


    Almost done here... (I'm reusing as much of the stock metal as possible due to regulations... I know, it looks like a puzzle...)


    Firewall and new space for the dry sump tank.


    And before the firewall was welded in. Actually, I didnt realise how little was left of the front of the body until I looked at the picture.



    Rear suspension:
    To make a (very) long story (extremely) short; I started this project thinking I wanted a IRS, but since the car will be low there just isn't room for one. Since I wanted something lighter than the stock axle, I went for a dedion instead.




    Playing around with different ways to mount the coil overs.. I'll have to wait until the dedion is mounted to the car though since I'm not exactly sure of the exakt positions of the body.


  19. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Sweden
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    Starting with the dedion. Laser cut parts are niiiiice. Saves alot of time when somebody else makes them for you.
    (Ends are almost done in the pictures below)



    I couldn't afford that fancy billet alu jig, so I chose organic material instead... ;)



    Drilling all the holes was made in the mill.




    That's about all for now. I've gotten a little bit further than this, but those pics aint on the internet yet.

    I do have a problem though and would really really appreciate if anyone could help me with it. I need to split the lincoln mark VIII half shafts, but have no clue how to split the outer joint.
    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...462#post785462

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Birmingham, AL
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    3,356
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    Good to see this build is still alive and you are bringing the fabrication to a new level. It is going to be even better than before.
    Stephen

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