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  1. #541
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    Doug,

    What's wrong with the forged SpeedTech spindles?

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  2. #542
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    Oct 2018
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    San Jose, CA
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    332

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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    Doug,

    What's wrong with the forged SpeedTech spindles?

    Andrew
    they seem nice, but they only sell them with a complete front suspension kit - so that may not be what he has in mind.
    1971 Camaro - 406
    2016 Camaro SS convertible
    2018 Colorado 4x4

  3. #543
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    Andrew; I'm trying to resist LS. My friends keep telling me that too. Another friend wants me to drop a RB26 engine in it instead since that is much lighter but I will gladly stick with my Pontiac engine - don't want to modify too many things on this project. ;)

    Quote Originally Posted by dug View Post
    I haven't viewed this thread in quite some time now and I've got some questions. I've been searching for fabricated spindles/uprights and this is the first build I've seen with them (at least for a pro-touring vehicle, there's plenty of offroad ones out there). I've wanted to do exactly what you did and design them out of sheet metal and weld them up to accept the corvette hubs. With my limited knowledge of suspension design I've had trouble determining how to design the spindle though so I'm left with the stock 1970 chevelle ones. It looks like you made them with "X" amount of caster and made the rest adjustable (I'm sure you incorporated an increased hub height to drop the car down as well)? Do I need to run a suspension analyzer or could I get away with building in a more optimal caster than the stock ones and be on my way?

    I love this build and it was great to see a video of it firing up. Keep up the great work.
    Thanks!
    I wouldn't bother building new uprights just for changing the caster. For me, I wanted low scrub with a good SAI, centerbolt system - but not the one bolting an adapter flange to the hub, a modern wheel bearing and didn't want to use lots of adapters for the brakes etc. This was enought for making my own instead.
    I created my own suspension geometry and didn't want to compromise too much, so that was why I did my own.

    To utilize custom made uprights, you'll probably need custom arms, mounting points in the frame etc too.

  4. #544
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    I designed mine with 4 caster, 5 SAI and a small amount of Trail if I remember correct. I'm not in front of the CAD-computer right now...

  5. #545
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    Mar 2018
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    la mesa, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    Andrew; I'm trying to resist LS. My friends keep telling me that too. Another friend wants me to drop a RB26 engine in it instead since that is much lighter but I will gladly stick with my Pontiac engine - don't want to modify too many things on this project. ;)



    Thanks!
    I wouldn't bother building new uprights just for changing the caster. For me, I wanted low scrub with a good SAI, centerbolt system - but not the one bolting an adapter flange to the hub, a modern wheel bearing and didn't want to use lots of adapters for the brakes etc. This was enought for making my own instead.
    I created my own suspension geometry and didn't want to compromise too much, so that was why I did my own.

    To utilize custom made uprights, you'll probably need custom arms, mounting points in the frame etc too.
    I would do RB26 all day long over an LS. But that's just my opinion that you didn't ask for. I love this build and I would be so scared of all the regulations and hoops you have to jump through.
    Follow my Instagram
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  6. #546
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    I would probably also do RB26 all day long. It's not that important for me what engine there is, but the Pontiac engines are getting quite rare nowadays. Atleast when you look at modified cars here in Sweden.

    I really wanna have a 180 degree crank (and cam) for my current engine. That would probably confuse a lot of people

  7. #547
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    Nov 2011
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    Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!
    Doug

    1970 chevelle, carb'd, turbo'd 383ci with a tremec tko.

  8. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    I would probably also do RB26 all day long. It's not that important for me what engine there is, but the Pontiac engines are getting quite rare nowadays. Atleast when you look at modified cars here in Sweden.

    I really wanna have a 180 degree crank (and cam) for my current engine. That would probably confuse a lot of people
    What about a flat crank Coyote? That would really make the Pontiac guys get the torches and pitch forks!

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  9. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    I really wanna have a 180 degree crank (and cam) for my current engine. That would probably confuse a lot of people
    Now that would be pretty awesome! Would you attempt to make your own?


    New Project: 1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt

    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  10. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
    Now that would be pretty awesome! Would you attempt to make your own?
    As if this build isn't epic enough...can you imagine a home made billet 180 degree crank and cam grind? I bet one of the better cam companies can probably do a cam relatively easily for this.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  11. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by dug View Post
    Thanks for your reply, I appreciate it!
    Thanks for reading my thread! ;)
    I'm just glad if I can inspire/help.



    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    As if this build isn't epic enough...can you imagine a home made billet 180 degree crank and cam grind? I bet one of the better cam companies can probably do a cam relatively easily for this.

    Andrew
    Thing is that my current employer has the right equipment for fabricating a crank. Lathes are running 24/7 though and I don't know anyone at the Machining Site. ...yet.

    Of course, private projects are not allowed. But some rules should just be considered a recommendation. ;)

    A small sized, high reving Pontiac engine would suit this project quite well I think. I.e. my own version of a 303, which then would be called RAVI of course. ;)

    Just dreaming right now, but it would be nice to have once the car is 'finished' and the chassis is sorted out.

  12. #552
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    Aug 2002
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    Pics...

    With a rolling chassis, I switched focus to start mounting doors and fenders. Really lousy fitment, but that will have to be fixed later. Right now, I just want to have them there so I can start wiring lights, build mounts for grilles, hood hinges etc.

    Removed all paint from doors and fenders. Right door do have some battle scars, but my plan is to make a fiber glass outer skin once panel gaps etc has been adjusted. There fore I will just slap some bondo over it and grind it straight before I make a mold of it.


    The lower part was warped (convex) due to the previous lead work, but I straightened that with a gas torch after watching 10 min on youtube. I probably should have watched atleast 20 min, but it came out OK and again - I'm not planning to keep the metal skin very long.

    Refurbed the hinges too. Made new bushings in the lathe since the one I got with the kit had too much play. Now there's no play at all.



    Driver side:


    Also "got the chance" to practice TIG-welding sheet metal on this one since I can't fit a MIG in my tiny garage.






    Turned out OK but not great. I'll have to continue to practice...
    Just a quick grind here. It looked a little better once I was finished with it, but definitely not a pro at this yet. Will probably never be either...



    And BOOM! How's that?


    Looks better than it is, though. No mounts for fenders or front yet. No references at all so this will take some time...

  13. #553
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    Looks fantastic! And I like where you're going with the sketches on the fender!
    -Chris
    '69 Corvette
    '55 Chevy Hardtop
    AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
    @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

  14. #554
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    Very nice! I love this build.


    New Project: 1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt

    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

  15. #555
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    Oh, and I bought an english wheel, so that I can fix my 'sketches on the fenders'. ;)
    Foldable, wall hanged, unit. Good quality impression, but some minor things need to be addressed before I can start using it.

  16. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    Oh, and I bought an english wheel, so that I can fix my 'sketches on the fenders'. ;)
    Foldable, wall hanged, unit. Good quality impression, but some minor things need to be addressed before I can start using it.
    Nice!

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  17. #557
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    Mounted the front fenders and did as good as I could with lining them up to the doors. The panel work on my car is really really bad - atleast one door and one fender has been changed during its life and probably something else too. They're definitely not lining up very good, so I will have to address that. Later. Right now, I just want them there so that I can fab attachment points for front of fenders, front, lower valance panel, headlights etc - so that I can start routing the last wires of the electrical system.

    Used this device, which I don't even know the Swedish name of, for finding the center body line. With that, it was easy to mark an exact position to align against on all panels.


    I remember measuring the body before I started designing the suspension in CAD. Obviously, I didn't leave much margin between metal and rubber... I will have to build new wheel arches anyway, so it won't be a problem.


    Rear fitment suddenly looks lame. I do have some space problems between inner tire and inner part of the wheel house so I'm just running a 285 on a 10.5" rim. A 295 or 305 would probably be better... making the dedione wider isn't that much work and I haven't ordered the final half shafts yet, so I can fine tune this in the future depending on how the front wheel arches comes out.



    Aaaaaaand 2019 livery is now official! White, blue (well...) and red! All panels are fixed with clecos, now I can start fabricating front supports for the fenders.

  18. #558
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    I think that is called a contour gauge. I also think you need to paint it in 'Merica livery...LOL

    Andrew
    Last edited by andrewb70; 01-22-2019 at 12:14 PM.
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  19. #559
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    Aug 2002
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    Thanks Andrew, you're probably right.

    Started extending the radiator frame to support the front fenders.
    Fixture and measuring everything 25 times. Really really hard to find reference points (I'm probably way to picky here) but after making sure that sides are straight, both fenders are level, hood fits, front fits (well... let's get back to that later...) I made this hyper sophisticated fixture - 3/4" square tube and two clamps - to keep the fenders in the right place while I was building the supports.



    I love my mill...


    Mounting points for radiator frame. When I did it, luckily I remembered that I was gonna have fenders on it - sooner or later - so I left room for a couple of threaded holes in top and bottom of it for later use (but I forgot hood support and hood lock, unfortunately...).



    Tacked together. I was gonna have another bar making a X, but it's really stiff so I'l probably leave it like this. I'll add some tubes later to hold the head and parking lights.



  20. #560
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    Awesome as usual. As for the hood latch, you could always just run pins or the aero catch latch systems.


    New Project: 1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt

    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

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